rate my detail. suggestions for "detailing 102"

[KRp220]

Hey guys. First and foremost, I did search for a thread like this, but I didn’t find what I was looking for. If there is a thread, please point me in the right direction.

I started detailing cars in the summer in high school. I’ve come a long way in the products I use and the methods I have and I’m looking to hone my skills a little. I will admit, I do somewhat enjoy it. It’s a little “zen” for me (especially with a few beers) but at times it can be overwhelming and I start to question my efforts.

So, I was hoping I could get everyone’s take on their full blown detail routine. Basically, I’m looking for a “Detailing 102..or 103(?)”

Here’s a list of the products I use (paint only)
• Adam’s Sealant and H20 Guard and Gloss
• Adam’s Brilliant Glaze
• Adam’s Buttery Wax
• Adam’s Hand/Fine Polish
• Megiures off the shelf compound

In the past I have done the following, but looking for feedback as I feel that it’s a lot of “layers”

Wash. Clay bar with detail spray. Compound. Hand polish. Wash. Seal. Wait. Wax. Glaze. Detail spray if needed.

I have a cheap buffer I got from AutoZone…. I prefer doing things by hand, but this eases the work for me and I’m not comfortable with a legit buffer yet. I use a combo of pads and microfiber clothes, but not sure when to use which.

Please let me know what you guys think. Suggestions on protocol, timing, pad/cloth usage, timing, etc are appreciated. Thanks!

[miked1978]

seems like a lot of sealer/wax/glaze and not enough polish/correction steps? I'm no expert and we don't know the condition of your paint before you started, but I would assume more effort on the "compound" step. Not sure what meguires off the shelf compound you are referring to, but I recently did correction with Meg 205 (could have gone to 105 in places, but took the easy way out) and sealed with power lock+. So... wash, clay, meg 205 on orange or white pad and then seal it. wax later if you like.

[KRp220]

seems like a lot of sealer/wax/glaze and not enough polish/correction steps? I'm no expert and we don't know the condition of your paint before you started, but I would assume more effort on the "compound" step. Not sure what meguires off the shelf compound you are referring to, but I recently did correction with Meg 205 (could have gone to 105 in places, but took the easy way out) and sealed with power lock+. So... wash, clay, meg 205 on orange or white pad and then seal it. wax later if you like.

thanks for reply Mike. Its Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. i just use it for mostly cleaning and 'take-down' purposes and use the Adam's Revive hand polish next to get better clarity
i guess i didn;t think my paint correction was lacking as my paint is in decent shape, but i guess i could use a little more insight on the differences between compound, polish, etc and when (and what sequence) to use them

[pdqgp]

Hey guys. First and foremost, I did search for a thread like this, but I didn’t find what I was looking for. If there is a thread, please point me in the right direction.

I started detailing cars in the summer in high school. I’ve come a long way in the products I use and the methods I have and I’m looking to hone my skills a little. I will admit, I do somewhat enjoy it. It’s a little “zen” for me (especially with a few beers) but at times it can be overwhelming and I start to question my efforts.

So, I was hoping I could get everyone’s take on their full blown detail routine. Basically, I’m looking for a “Detailing 102..or 103(?)”

Here’s a list of the products I use (paint only)
• Adam’s Sealant and H20 Guard and Gloss
• Adam’s Brilliant Glaze
• Adam’s Buttery Wax
• Adam’s Hand/Fine Polish
• Megiures off the shelf compound

In the past I have done the following, but looking for feedback as I feel that it’s a lot of “layers”

Wash. Clay bar with detail spray. Compound. Hand polish. Wash. Seal. Wait. Wax. Glaze. Detail spray if needed.

I have a cheap buffer I got from AutoZone…. I prefer doing things by hand, but this eases the work for me and I’m not comfortable with a legit buffer yet. I use a combo of pads and microfiber clothes, but not sure when to use which.

Please let me know what you guys think. Suggestions on protocol, timing, pad/cloth usage, timing, etc are appreciated. Thanks!

The Shurhold Buffer Autozone sells is decent. On part with Porter Cable's 7424XP. Both are very solid and proven non forced rotational units. I have one of each. If you're looking to make money doing other cars vs just your own it would be wise to invest in either a Flex 3401 or better or at least a long thow buffer. Both will power through things much faster.

In terms of your process, there's a number of ways to complete things. Really depends on the vehicle as paints vary on how they respond and also on the condition. There's really no one solution. Good news is most combos work well. Adam's are great products. Not a line I use or am famliar with first-hand but good.

I use the least aggressive products and most efficient means to accomplish the task. I've seen equal results out of multi-step routines as with 1-2 step processes. Again, show me the car / paint / condition and that will be the baseline to start.

My processes are:

Wash, Decontaminate, Clay, Compound, IPA/Clean Wipe, Wet Sand RIDS/ troublesome areas if needed, Polish, Jewel, Glaze, Seal or wax or Nano coat. Jeweling and glazing are really options. I've done both to my S4. Most of my friends and relatives don't require and honestly, many wouldn't appreciate the differences made.

Not sure if I answered exactly what you're looking for but again, not one solution for every situation.

[Avus RS4]

For an off the shelf compound, the Meguiars Ultimate compound is pretty good.
I'm not too much fan of glazes, I mean they're good and it gives you a nice pop, but they're short lived.
As long as you let the sealant cure for at least a day, you can top it with wax/glaze and what have you.
It looks like you've got the right steps down, keep going at it, it takes practice and it's really not that hard to learn...

[KRp220]

Thanks guys. I guess I've been in a decent path. The only question I have regarding your processes is the glaze/seal sequence. @pdqgp you said glaze then seal and @Avus RS4 you said seal then glaze. Any reason why? I guess the glaze is the product I'm probably most unsure of when to use, and I think I've seen it advertised as a way to shine things up here and there (like a detail spray)


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[Avus RS4]

The reason(s) you'd want to put the sealant on first, it's because the sealant needs a surface free of oil, wax, glaze and what have you for it to be able to adhere to the surfaces as its molecules cross link to form a bond with paint, thus ensuring the durability sealants are meant to provide. That's just a rule of thumb. Anything under the sealant will certainly degrade its properties.
The glaze and wax on top is as I mentioned to bring out the pop factor, as sealant are nice in gloss and brilliance and waxes and glazes bring more warmth and depth to the finish.

[pdqgp]

Thanks guys. I guess I've been in a decent path. The only question I have regarding your processes is the glaze/seal sequence. @pdqgp you said glaze then seal and @Avus RS4 you said seal then glaze. Any reason why? I guess the glaze is the product I'm probably most unsure of when to use, and I think I've seen it advertised as a way to shine things up here and there (like a detail spray)

I think the first thing that needs to be clarified is what a sealant is vs a nano coating. I'm using the term sealant to reference a synthetic sealant not a Wax and not a Nano Coating. Sealants like Menzerna's Powerlock or HDPoxy vs Nano Coatings like Cquartz or 22PLE, etc. Anytime you apply a nano or ceramic coating, it needs to go on bare polished clear coat finishes first. Nothing but their specific process can go under them.

The reason I say put down a glaze first is that's typically how it's done. If you use an acrylic based (non oil based) glaze (which most today are), you shouldn't have any bonding issues with the sealant.

Example #1 Ever watch an old single stage paint restoration? You have to strongly Megs #7 glaze into the paint and then let it sit overnight to work out the oxidation by conditioning the paint. You will have do do this multiple times on old chalky single stage paints. From there you will buff it off and work in your LSP whether it's Wax or a Synthetic Sealant. This is most tyipcal on cars up through even the early 90's.

Example #2, If you have a newer clear coat car, go with an acrylic Glaze like Chemical Guys Black/White Light series, Poor Boys Black Hole (My favorite) or even Wolfgang's glaze. WG's is really a polish(abrasive) filler-free, and wax-free and Chem Guys is a glaze with a mild sealant already built in. You will not have problems with any synthetic sealants, waxes or hybrids bonding to them. The old rule that glazes only went under 'nuba waxes is no longer entirely true. Adam's products are a little different so if you're working with their glaze, you would put their sealant down first. Klass SG contains no oil or wax. it is a acrylic base. 3M and Meguiars are oil or wax base

So, after your glaze like Poor Boys or Black/white Light, you will then lay down a sealant like HDPoxy or Powerlock and IF you really want to go crazy with a third step, you can lay down a coat of Montain Hybrid wax, pure 'Nuba or one of my favorites, Collinite 915 which is their richest and deepest tone wax. I like to put a pure wax on top of sealants. It noticably helps balance out the mirror look that synthetic sealants provide with the warmth pure waxes leave.

When you put down a glaze, the key thing is 1-2 coats, but the second coat should be done by hand. It's okay to do the first with a pad and buffer but doing so with the second coat will begin to pull up the fillers from the first. Also follow instructions on cure times for both the first and second coats. Typically 15-30 minutes for the first coat and some will say it needs to fully cure after buffing it off for 12-24hrs before the second coat can be applied.




Here's an example of my S4 coated with two coats of Chem Guys Blacklight and Collinite #845 (prepped for winter) as it's a solid performer in salt and cold weather.

[pdqgp]

I guess the glaze is the product I'm probably most unsure of when to use, and I think I've seen it advertised as a way to shine things up here and there (like a detail spray)

Think of the glazes I've referenced, with the exception of Megs #7 as fillers. They are helping fill in the nano marks that even the best polishes will leave behind. When you do that you "deepen" the color. It's especially noticable on darker colors. You will notice for good or bad, especially on something like mettalic blue's that the color will darken a bit. That's normal and it's because more light is reflecting straight back vs bouncing around. It's sorta like seeing a black car with swirls vs one without. all those swirls bounce light in every direction thus the black is flat or bright vs deep and dark. Make sense?

That's what a glaze does. Not meant IMO to "hide" swirls, although putting them on will tend to reduce them, but rather to be used to enhance a finely polished or jeweled surface. Once done you can seal them in. That's why a lot of modern glazes have a sealant built in. Klasse SG is a super great one but it can be a PIA to apply/use. End results are fabulous though.

[Avus RS4]

You can certainly put down glaze first and top it with a wax, I've done that, but with sealant the surface needs to be free of anything that can interfere with the adhesion of it to the finish.
I haven't seen ant glaze that is compatible with any sealant. As far as I know, sealants are pretty much like the new coatings in the sense that the surface needs to be prepped to promote adhesion to the finish.
At least that's how I do it, your mileage may vary...

[pdqgp]

with sealant the surface needs to be free of anything that can interfere with the adhesion of it to the finish.
I haven't seen ant glaze that is compatible with any sealant.

If you've not taken Mike Phillips course down at Autogeek HQ I highly recommend it. Or at least one of his three day regional courses. You'll work with plenty of them there as he shows you most everything first hand with you doing the work. Good stuff.

[Avus RS4]

If you've not taken Mike Phillips course down at Autogeek HQ I highly recommend it. Or at least one of his three day regional courses. You'll work with plenty of them there as he shows you most everything first hand with you doing the work. Good stuff.

Not to sound like a dick, but I'm past that.
I respect Mike Phillips, I've seen all of his videos and I'm yet to learn anything new.
He does things the same way I do.
Detailing is pretty much standard across the board.
I highly doubt that Mike Phillips will tell you to put glaze under a sealant...

[pdqgp]

Not to sound like a dick, but I'm past that.
I respect Mike Phillips, I've seen all of his videos and I'm yet to learn anything new.
He does things the same way I do.
Detailing is pretty much standard across the board.
I highly doubt that Mike Phillips will tell you to put glaze under a sealant...

I am too but I've enjoyed his courses nonetheless. In terms of using glazes, the above is a graphic from him and he does outline when to use which glaze, oil based or acrylic based. He covers it in several threads on their board too.

I grew up detailing in the 80's and it's changed quite a bit over the years. New products are pretty much bullet proof. Just follow what they recommend in terms of topping them with LSP's. The only ones that really need to be waxes only are oil based ones like 3M and Megs #7.

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