Where would you start?

[RobBanks]

My wifes car developed a p2296 code over the winter some time. She's been driving the car for
the last 4 years i've changed the fuel filter 3 times and haven't really had any problems with the car.
I've got vag com and the rail pressure reads 0. Thats the only thing that really sticks out to me. Now
I've been searching and searching and know it could be the hpfp,it could be some sensors and could
even be the ecm. What I'm asking is where would everyone start to try to fix this.....

Dropping the car off at a stealership is not an option. I'm ready and able to take the intake off and
change the g247 fuel sensor,check the hpfp while i'm in there. But I'm stuck on the fact that it could be
so many different things, car has 166k and my wife hardly ever goes over 4,000 rpm. But every few weeks
i'd drive the car hard. We only run shell Vpower and I've stayed on top of the carbon and have never had
any problems.....But this is the first year that we haven't took the car to florida and i really feel that 3,000
mile round trip really kept this car running great. 28-30 mpg was normal during those trips,and also many
miles cruising above 80 mph for hours and this car loved it. The only car I liked better for that trip was my
D2 A8 and only because it had a bigger fuel tank. I know some have had horror stories with the 3.2 but
I can say its been a good car.......I started talking about getting another A6 with the 3.0t and now this
problem,but i need this car to make it untill this october. So i need a plan to fix this soon.

[cal3thousand]

Have you run a full scan on VCDS to see if you have any modules or sensors that are out besides just the pressure reading of 0?

Since your car runs, pressure is certainly not 0. And if the car is reporting 0 psi pressure, I would assume that the G247 is a culprit.

[SinCityA6]

Have you run a full scan on VCDS to see if you have any modules or sensors that are out besides just the pressure reading of 0?

Since your car runs, pressure is certainly not 0. And if the car is reporting 0 psi pressure, I would assume that the G247 is a culprit.

+1 here. If the car is not showing any physical signs, then I would start with the sensor.

[RobBanks]

Address 01: Engine (4F1 910 559 E)

15:57:38
6.68 bar Current Fuel Pressure
1.3 % Fuel Pressure Regulator
2.2 % Adaptation Value elect. Fuel Pump
OFF Fuel Pump Adapt. Status
6.67 bar Fuel Rail Pressure
73.2 % Electrical Fuel Pump
92.0°C Oil Temperature
35.00 bar Rail Pressure (specified)
28.32 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator
0 Rail Pressure Regulator

This was a log at idle....if i drive the car it dosen't run 100%, under 4,000 rpm it seems ok anything above
it seems to be starving for fuel and there is a loss of power.

[cal3thousand]

72% electrical fuel pump at idle seems quite excessive, if I'm reading it right.

Makes me feel it's the HPFP not working and the in-tank pump has to overwork. This also jives with the car starving at higher load.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

[RobBanks]

I've also thought that from the first time i scanned the car......the post's about it being an electrical issue has kept
me from changing the HPFP. Last night i unplugged the sensor and got the same numbers. I've got a new sensor
and will be changing it tonight. From what i understand the PRV under the intake stays closed on restarts and the
car stutters a little......I can literally watch that valve go from 100% to 0% and the car evens out and the intank
pump goes from just under 6 bar to 6.5-8 bar.

I'll be following up later tonight. If the sensor doesn't solve the problem I will be inspecting the pump.

[cal3thousand]

I've also thought that from the first time i scanned the car......the post's about it being an electrical issue has kept
me from changing the HPFP. Last night i unplugged the sensor and got the same numbers. I've got a new sensor
and will be changing it tonight. From what i understand the PRV under the intake stays closed on restarts and the
car stutters a little......I can literally watch that valve go from 100% to 0% and the car evens out and the intank
pump goes from just under 6 bar to 6.5-8 bar.

I'll be following up later tonight. If the sensor doesn't solve the problem I will be inspecting the pump.

How did this go?