B8 Ko4 owners follow up thread

**Spawne32** · 09-04-2018 03:53 AM

Originally Posted by A4 Centaur

^ We all got ripped off! Lol Lesson learned. Next one is from Taiwan or Shanghai

Anyone who bought the F23 for 1600 def paid way too much that I can tell you, not sure about any of the other hybrids but I suspect they have similar roots.

**A4 Centaur** · 09-04-2018 05:37 AM

^Got me thinking about grabbing a "genuine" K04 and then have the jet-coating done locally.

**Perry01** · 09-04-2018 08:57 AM

Originally Posted by A4 Centaur

^Got me thinking about grabbing a "genuine" K04 and then have the jet-coating done locally.

+1 on the genuine K04. Why split pennies on a turbocharger that you are going to install on a $35k plus car?

**Spawne32** · 09-04-2018 10:56 AM

Originally Posted by Perry01

+1 on the genuine K04. Why split pennies on a turbocharger that you are going to install on a $35k plus car?

You paid 35k for your B8? lol Cus I'm not nearly that deep into this car, including repairs and the price of the car.

**Perry01** · 09-04-2018 05:56 PM

Originally Posted by Spawne32

You paid 35k for your B8? lol Cus I'm not nearly that deep into this car, including repairs and the price of the car.

Regardless of what you paid for you A4, MSRP on a Premium Plus B8/8.5 range anywhere from $35k to $45k. My point was that it’s not a Honda Civic.

**Spawne32** · 09-04-2018 06:33 PM

Originally Posted by Perry01

Regardless of what you paid for you A4, MSRP on a Premium Plus B8/8.5 range anywhere from $35k to $45k. My point was that it’s not a Honda Civic.

I think that is the point though, its not worth more then a honda civic to me, or anyone else. Dumping thousands into some "premium" turbo kit that I full well know the company only paid 1/16th of what they sell them for isnt what I am all about. Plus, as I have said, many times before, you cannot make the argument that OEM (borg warner or IHI) in this instance, or any other OEM component for that matter, is any better then the supposedly "cheap shit". OEM turbo on my car was replaced at 65k for a bad wastegate, along with many others, some at even lower mileage, and guess what, my K03 or JH5, whatever it may be, is on its last leg again, along with the trans, engine, and a whole host of other parts that will not get replaced with OEM stuff either.

Let's see what happens with this, im roughly $1200 deep right now between the ebay turbo and performance K04 CHRA from the S3. If it works, and it puts down similar or better numbers then any of the other offerings, and lasts even half the time the OEM one lasted, I think it was worth it to me.

**Spawne32** · 09-04-2018 11:03 AM

Originally Posted by A4 Centaur

^Got me thinking about grabbing a "genuine" K04 and then have the jet-coating done locally.

Do you have the part number for a genuine K04 that fits the longitudinal application? Besides the CTS turbo which is the only one I know that genuine. My thinking was that there was no longitudinal genuine K04, only transverse applications had them. Mamba sells the OEM k04 but the housing is different.

https://shop.mambatek.com/Genuine-Ne...I-003-0586.htm

**bhvrdr** · 09-04-2018 07:08 PM

Originally Posted by Spawne32

Do you have the part number for a genuine K04 that fits the longitudinal application? Besides the CTS turbo which is the only one I know that genuine. My thinking was that there was no longitudinal genuine K04, only transverse applications had them. Mamba sells the OEM k04 but the housing is different.

https://shop.mambatek.com/Genuine-Ne...I-003-0586.htm

The cts and the unitronic is a genuine k04 for transverse that is slightly modified with welding to the cold side to make fit. Ive had both btw.

You can see unitronic does very little modification to the housing. They instead focus on using their own hose design to the mate up to the stock location intercooler hose. Then Unitronic mives one of the exhaust housing studs to allow any oem style cat, testpipe, hfc etc to mate up on that side.

Cts welds qite a bit into the cold side to mate up to the stock ic hose location. Then you use their testpipe or hfc.

Anyone could do these modifications...

My Unitronic k04...

My cts k04...

**A4 Centaur** · 09-04-2018 07:04 PM

^ Yea I think my Avant was 54k? in 2012 bucks. For the money I have put in her, I could have....but I love the Avant more than most things I could have or already have. Not the Ducati though. She's a special creature in her own right as well.

**Spawne32** · 09-04-2018 07:25 PM

So that's how much of a profit margin there is on those two kits, CTS being $2400 dollars, and Unitronic being $2999.99. You can get that K04 for $1650 genuine from mamba, whos probably STILL making a good profit on it as is. You just need to either have a welder or the ability to make an adapter piece for the outlet. I think the stock specifications on those are...

Compressor Wheel spec
Inducer OD : 46.39 mm
Exducer OD: 56.08 mm
Blade :6+6
Material : Billet forge aluminum 2618

Turbine wheel
Inducer OD: 50mm
Exducer OD: 44.5mm
Blade : 12 blade
Material: Inconel 713

Unless there are variations?

**bhvrdr** · 09-04-2018 07:36 PM

Originally Posted by Spawne32

So that's how much of a profit margin there is on those two kits, CTS being $2400 dollars, and Unitronic being $2999.99. You can get that K04 for $1650 genuine from mamba, whos probably STILL making a good profit on it as is. You just need to either have a welder or the ability to make an adapter piece for the outlet. I think the stock specifications on those are...

Compressor Wheel spec
Inducer OD : 46.39 mm
Exducer OD: 56.08 mm
Blade :6+6
Material : Billet forge aluminum 2618

Turbine wheel
Inducer OD: 50mm
Exducer OD: 44.5mm
Blade : 12 blade
Material: Inconel 713

Unless there are variations?

I find the unitronic kit to be a decent deal. For $2999 you get the genuine turbo that is modded to fit oem location, some nice completely custom hoses that allow you to run the modified location bpv, and completely dialed in programming with technical support to make anything right. I literally installed my turbo in a day and was dialed in running perfect logs on the first run. Theres alot to be said for that.

The only other way id do it us just buy the fake k04 from china for 600 and the apr tune for $1049 fully loaded. Still that could be more headache than its worth.

For me the cts kit doesn't make sense. Id need to spend 2400 for the turbo and 1049 for apr software.

For the jhm and hpa it makes zero sense since youre overpaying by 1000 for the turbo.

**Spawne32** · 09-04-2018 07:40 PM

Tuning seems to be the biggest issue here, even with having eurodyne, im not confident his K04 or F23 tunes are anything but crap. I'm squeezing 22psi out of the K03 right now using his F23 base file, and I've managed to dial it in quite well, but out of the box it was total crap even on the stage 1 and stage 2. His stage 1 files were running 10.5:1 AFR's at WOT, car was puking black smoke out of the back of it, and the lambda tables are SET THIS WAY!! So yeh, I can agree with you on that you pay for a good quality tune. This is all experimentation right now, it may turn out to be nothing and I may wind up having to send everything back. I have 30 days for the return period if I don't want the parts, so we will know one way or another.

Speaking of installation of the new turbo, what would you say was the most difficult part doing it yourself?

**bhvrdr** · 09-04-2018 07:50 PM

Originally Posted by Spawne32

Tuning seems to be the biggest issue here, even with having eurodyne, im not confident his K04 or F23 tunes are anything but crap. I'm squeezing 22psi out of the K03 right now using his F23 base file, and I've managed to dial it in quite well, but out of the box it was total crap even on the stage 1 and stage 2. His stage 1 files were running 10.5:1 AFR's at WOT, car was puking black smoke out of the back of it, and the lambda tables are SET THIS WAY!! So yeh, I can agree with you on that you pay for a good quality tune. This is all experimentation right now, it may turn out to be nothing and I may wind up having to send everything back. I have 30 days for the return period if I don't want the parts, so we will know one way or another.

Speaking of installation of the new turbo, what would you say was the most difficult part doing it yourself?

Alot of people spend too much time on the midpipe to downpipe because you're pretty much guaranteed to snap the little studs and have to drill them out. I decided to avoid that hassle and just buy this 200 midpipe...

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F142898184194

The othe pita was getting the turbo out with the cat attached. I should have done that with the car in service position. But i couldnt wiggle it out without the car in service position so i had to disconnect the cat from the turbo. I found the last bolt behind the turbo to be a major pita.

I think nect time ill just disconnect midpioe from downpipe and go service position and slide the turbo forward then out with cat attached

Mike

**Spawne32** · 09-04-2018 08:16 PM

lol so basically everything ive already done, im curious, since we have the same bad dog motorsports downpipe, did yours rub right at the first bend under the car? I had to....modify....mine with a sledge hammer a bit to give it some clearance, the bend was not tight enough and everytime i went around left turns, the 3mm of clearance it had at rest was not enough to keep it from vibrating the tunnel.

**bhvrdr** · 09-04-2018 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by Spawne32

lol so basically everything ive already done, im curious, since we have the same bad dog motorsports downpipe, did yours rub right at the first bend under the car? I had to....modify....mine with a sledge hammer a bit to give it some clearance, the bend was not tight enough and everytime i went around left turns, the 3mm of clearance it had at rest was not enough to keep it from vibrating the tunnel.

Haha yeah every once in a great while under just the right turning with the car on an unlevel ground ill get a sound from it probably rubbing. It looked like it may be an issue when i was installing it. I dont drive the car alot and im still keeping my distance from it after the turbo install but ill probably do a little "shaping" of it soon too.

**A4 Centaur** · 09-04-2018 08:53 PM

Connecting the coolant lines from beneath the car. PITA.

**Perry01** · 09-04-2018 11:03 PM

Originally Posted by A4 Centaur

Connecting the coolant lines from beneath the car. PITA.

Yea, those banjo bolts were a pain getting threaded. My exhaust bolts/studs weren’t a problem. I had only 30k miles on the odometer so things were not too frozen on.

btw, I bought my CTS K04 (and HFC) from a forum member here in the classified section. He bought it brand new but wrecked his car before installing the turbo. I got it still in the original box for $1500. My tune was just a $50 upgrade since I already had their Stage 2.

Here it is before installation:

**Poodini** · 09-05-2018 10:29 AM

Originally Posted by Perry01

Yea, those banjo bolts were a pain getting threaded. My exhaust bolts/studs weren’t a problem. I had only 30k miles on the odometer so things were not too frozen on.

btw, I bought my CTS K04 (and HFC) from a forum member here in the classified section. He bought it brand new but wrecked his car before installing the turbo. I got it still in the original box for $1500. My tune was just a $50 upgrade since I already had their Stage 2.

Here it is before installation:

It’s GLORIOUS!

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**shaunm82** · 09-05-2018 10:30 AM

Originally Posted by Perry01

Yea, those banjo bolts were a pain getting threaded. My exhaust bolts/studs weren’t a problem. I had only 30k miles on the odometer so things were not too frozen on.

btw, I bought my CTS K04 (and HFC) from a forum member here in the classified section. He bought it brand new but wrecked his car before installing the turbo. I got it still in the original box for $1500. My tune was just a $50 upgrade since I already had their Stage 2.

$50 to go from Stage 2 to K04 tune wise is awesome! Wish it was like that for all tuners!

**Poodini** · 09-05-2018 10:42 AM

Originally Posted by A4 Centaur

Connecting the coolant lines from beneath the car. PITA.

Nothing better than dealing with a stripped triple square when trying to replace the oil return line...and of course it just so happens to be the last bolt needing to come off...🤬❗️

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**Spawne32** · 09-10-2018 11:57 AM

Ebay turbo is here, looks like a 6+6 compressor, 12 blade full back turbine wheel. OEM turbo gasket fits the exhaust side perfectly with no modifications needed, gonna take some measurements of the outlet. The electronics it come with are probably junk, the N75 valve it came with was broken right out of the box, nipple broke right off of it. Not sure how these sizes match up, still looking into that. The CHRA spins very roughly, like its binding on something internally, not sure if its because its a journal bearing or what, never had a journal bearing turbo do this.

**Coldcarnival** · 09-10-2018 12:02 PM

You have my attention

, good work

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**Spawne32** · 09-10-2018 12:09 PM

I think the mambatek CHRA from the S3 is the correct one for this housing, trying to get some finer measurements. Mamba is listing the one I purchased to replace this ebay center housing as "7+7 2618 performance billet wheel, Inducer OD: 46.39mm, Exducer OD: 56.08mm (Extended tip OD: 59.66 mm) Nose: 10.97mm" I think I am measuring right inbetween the actual exducer and the extended tip on that wheel which is giving me funky measurements. Gonna try to pin this down better.

**Spawne32** · 09-10-2018 12:17 PM

Exducer looks to be somewhere around 57.6mm and tip to tip on the blades seems to be about 60.9mm.

**Spawne32** · 09-10-2018 12:31 PM

Inducer is measuring almost identical to mamba specs.. mamba listing Inducer OD : 46.39 mm, and since this is the part that actually goes into the bore of the compressor housing, seems it should work.

**Spawne32** · 09-10-2018 01:00 PM

balancing sheet included with it

**Spawne32** · 09-11-2018 02:22 PM

So mambatek thus far has ignored my emails and messages I have sent over facebook, even though they read them, regarding the order status and the lack of confirmation despite them billing my credit card the day of. Not sure how thats going to go thus far, I may wind up having to file a charge back for both the CHRA and the wastegate. I decided in the meantime to order a OE replacement K04 CHRA from TRL (Turbo Rebuild Limited) over in the UK. They sell melett aftermarket VSR balanced OE replacement CHRA's. £164.50 (euros) shipped to the US, roughly 221 bucks I think. https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...049700191.html

This OE replacement CHRA should be exactly what I pulled from the ebay turbo mm for mm unless there is a discrepancy in the ebay turbos wheel design. If I use this CHRA, total price of the build for a legit K04 internal turbo comes to roughly 875 or so minus the upgraded adjustable wastegate and using the one it came with. Also totally up in the air should I get both CHRA's to choose from, which set of wheels I want to use, the 7+7/9 blade mamba, which is supposed to have huge flow potential, or the OE K04 sized wheels which are 6+6 and 12 blade on the turbine.

**Spawne32** · 09-11-2018 06:46 PM

Few more updates, got a hold of mambatek tonight. Apparently their CHRA's are built to order and their production line is backed up at least a month right now, so they gave me the option to cancel that order, which I am going to do. Going to go with the OE replacement CHRA for the K04-0064 which is the S3 (8P) turbo which I believe is what you all are considering "true" K04's. Should have that CHRA in about 10 days, soon as it comes in ill get it all built with some new grade 10.9 hardware I ordered from mcmaster carr, along with an improved vibration resistant locknut for the vband it came with because I didn't trust the one it had.

Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Steel Hex Head Screw, High-Strength, M6 x 1 mm Thread, 16 mm Long, packs of 50 90854A132
Stainless Steel Flex-Top Locknut for Heavy Vibration, M6 x 1 mm Thread, packs of 1 94560A060
Bumax 88 Stainless Steel Oversized Washer for M6 Screw Size, 6.4 mm ID, 18 mm OD, packs of 5 94316A510

**A4 Centaur** · 09-11-2018 07:49 PM

Excellent work! Looking forward to your progress.

**DetRebel** · 09-12-2018 07:51 PM

Any gently used K04s available for around $800? Figured I’d try my luck

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**Spawne32** · 09-12-2018 07:52 PM

Originally Posted by DetRebel

Any gently used K04s available for around $800? Figured I’d try my luck

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You could find a used K04 from a S3, problem is the compressor housing still wont work for our application without some sort of modification.

**Spawne32** · 09-14-2018 11:25 AM

Mambatek adjustable wastegate is here! Very high quality, unsure how I am going to set this as of yet.

**Spawne32** · 09-14-2018 01:16 PM

Come's pre installed with the 12psi spring, looks like it comes with the 7psi, 15psi, 18psi, 22psi and 26psi springs. They recommend 3-4mm of preload on the rod tension when installing.

**AllroadCorbin** · 09-17-2018 10:31 AM

Hi all- somewhat related but also a bit off topic. I’ve been trying out various oils in my Allroad and S4. gotten very nerdy with data and UOA reports from blackstone haha. I’ve run 8100 xcess 5-40 in my Allroad it’s entire life and it’s been. Cams looked amazing at 110k when I took a look. Also no consumption ever. Tried Redline 5-40 and honestly it is just too damn thick at operating temp. Car felt bogged down and i lost a few mpg. Tossed some 300v 5w-40 in, and holy hell. Gained back the mpg and the car feels rev happy as hell. My oil temps also decreased over 10f at 90mph. I kept thinking it was all in my head but I kept noticing how eager it felt. The double Esther race oil shizzz seems to be no joke. It’s also 0% shear to 392f which is higher than our motors will every produce. You can order it on FCP and have lifetime replacement. It’s $35 per 2L can (very expensive) but FCP replaces it free when you send the old stuff back lol. Thought I’d share. I’m a true believer in many things being snake oil but it feels like Motul 300v is not one of them. I’ll post a UOA after like 4-5k Miles. Seems like a good fit for a toasty K04 motor that gets “driven”

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**bhvrdr** · 09-17-2018 10:34 AM

Originally Posted by AllroadCorbin

Hi all- somewhat related but also a bit off topic. I’ve been trying out various oils in my Allroad and S4. gotten very nerdy with data and UOA reports from blackstone haha. I’ve run 8100 xcess 5-40 in my Allroad it’s entire life and it’s been. Cams looked amazing at 110k when I took a look. Also no consumption ever. Tried Redline 5-40 and honestly it is just too damn thick at operating temp. Car felt bogged down and i lost a few mpg. Tossed some 300v 5w-40 in, and holy hell. Gained back the mpg and the car feels rev happy as hell. My oil temps also decreased over 10f at 90mph. I kept thinking it was all in my head but I kept noticing how eager it felt. The double Esther race oil shizzz seems to be no joke. It’s also 0% shear to 392f which is higher than our motors will every produce. You can order it on FCP and have lifetime replacement. It’s $35 per 2L can (very expensive) but FCP replaces it free when you send the old stuff back lol. Thought I’d share. I’m a true believer in many things being snake oil but it feels like Motul 300v is not one of them. I’ll post a UOA after like 4-5k Miles. Seems like a good fit for a toasty K04 motor that gets “driven”

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Keep in mind that stuff is going to have very little ad pack so its meant to be run at race intervals. Youre going to probably want to get it changed at least every 3k miles. Youd usually want a strret oil with detergents if running it on the strret.

Mike

**AllroadCorbin** · 09-17-2018 10:39 AM

Originally Posted by bhvrdr

Keep in mind that stuff is going to have very little ad pack so its meant to be run at race intervals. Youre going to probably want to get it changed at least every 3k miles. Youd usually want a strret oil with detergents if running it on the strret.

Mike

The additive pack is actually very dense (as far as anti wear additives like moly and zddp). It does have some detergents but not as many as something like Amsoil DEO or another oil meant to go 15k. As long as you aren’t running it in a diesel motor or have a fuel dilution problem, it should not be an issue. The additive pack in 300v is very good for wear but could shorten the life of anybody with cats still (no issue here). there’s a lot of UOAs for people running it well beyond 5k and the reports are stellar. tbn retention is excellent. I think some crazy dude ran it for 14k miles on some forum and it came out better than his M1 0w-40 did. I’ll be doing 3-5k swaps like I always have.... especially now that FCP swaps it free

Anyways back to K04s! Just sharing! Carry on

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**bhvrdr** · 09-17-2018 10:42 AM

Originally Posted by AllroadCorbin

The additive pack is actually very dense (as far as anti wear additives like moly and zddp). It does have some detergents but not as many as something like Amsoil DEO or another oil meant to go 15k. As long as you aren’t running it in a diesel motor or have a fuel dilution problem, it should not be an issue. The additive pack in 300v is very good for wear but could shorten the life of anybody with cats still (no issue here). there’s a lot of UOAs for people running it well beyond 5k and the reports are stellar. tbn retention is excellent. I think some crazy dude ran it for 14k miles on some forum and it came out better than his M1 0w-40 did. I’ll be doing 3-5k swaps like I always have.... especially now that FCP swaps it free

Anyways back to K04s! Just sharing! Carry on

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Ok good to hear. I know their rbf600 can run long fluid intervals just like regular brake fluid according to motul themselves but i thought i remembered them cautioning us in the b6 days against using 300v for street cars. I guess its not the case. Good deal.

Mike

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**AllroadCorbin** · 09-17-2018 10:45 AM

Originally Posted by bhvrdr

Ok good to hear. I know their rbf600 can run long fluid intervals just like regular brake fluid according to motul themselves but i thought i remembered them cautioning us in the b6 days against using 300v for street cars. I guess its not the case. Good deal.

Mike

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People will advise against using any non API Sn oil for street use for a variety of reasons... usually catalytic converters / emissions protection. If my UOA comes out iffy or something odd then I’ll be sure to post it. Motul 300v is also Esther so the high polarity makes it stick to shit haha. Kinda neat the engineering that goes into something “simple” like oil. If people are dead set on long intervals then Amsoil 0w-40 signature or Motul 8100 xcess is your best move from the countless hours of pointless research I’ve been doing lol.

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**bb-tt** · 11-29-2018 03:58 PM

Originally Posted by AllroadCorbin

Hi all- somewhat related but also a bit off topic. I’ve been trying out various oils in my Allroad and S4. gotten very nerdy with data and UOA reports from blackstone haha. I’ve run 8100 xcess 5-40 in my Allroad it’s entire life and it’s been. Cams looked amazing at 110k when I took a look. Also no consumption ever. Tried Redline 5-40 and honestly it is just too damn thick at operating temp. Car felt bogged down and i lost a few mpg. Tossed some 300v 5w-40 in, and holy hell. Gained back the mpg and the car feels rev happy as hell. My oil temps also decreased over 10f at 90mph. I kept thinking it was all in my head but I kept noticing how eager it felt. The double Esther race oil shizzz seems to be no joke. It’s also 0% shear to 392f which is higher than our motors will every produce. You can order it on FCP and have lifetime replacement. It’s $35 per 2L can (very expensive) but FCP replaces it free when you send the old stuff back lol. Thought I’d share. I’m a true believer in many things being snake oil but it feels like Motul 300v is not one of them. I’ll post a UOA after like 4-5k Miles. Seems like a good fit for a toasty K04 motor that gets “driven”

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have not had to change oil yet in the avant as when it was due had the oil consumption rebuild (thank you AoA) so just about ready in another 1000 miles debating what to run in it. Ran rotella t6 in the tt which worked well debating what to run in the avant.

**Spawne32** · 09-17-2018 11:05 AM

got the new K04 core in from the UK today, and let me tell you, its like a night and day difference between the ebay core and this melett core. Thing spins almost as freely as a ball bearing turbo. Comes complete VSR balanced as well. Gonna try to fit it in the ebay turbo housings and see how it does. If it matches up right I think this will work out well.