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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring Afrckenway's Avatar
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    Mar 11 2016
    AZ Member #
    370122
    Location
    Tampa Fl

    04 Timing Belt. Did I goof?

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    Ok guys. I'm new here and don't think Ive posted before but I've done my research. Also, first Euro car woo!

    I bought this B6 1.8t for $900 with a few problems of course. I had a fun time replacing the CV axle and a few other projects.
    Its got roughly 75k on it (speedo and tach doesn't work, still waiting on vcds scan) but I decided to dive in to my first timing
    job before I end up with some hefty replacement costs. I made it through well enough with the install and turned it over to verify
    the marks were correct. As it turns out, the mark I made on the crank line up, so do the cam marks. But the crank pulley set to its
    mark shows the cams are off maybe 2 teeth or roughly 20 degrees. I don't hear metal to metal and I'm assuming the resistance
    would be worse turning the crank if I'm bending valves. it does return on its own but I would guess that's the cam springs maybe?

    So before I reassemble this and maybe something goes very wrong I would like to verify timing. The numerous posts and videos
    I went through tell you to verify but don't go into it. How can I verify everything in spot on? and if I didn't nail it (assuming i dont
    need a new head) how do I reset the pin for the tensioner so I can set it? I'm still pretty new to doing timing but I've had a fair
    bit of literature. Any help would be greatly appreciated and I will provide as good of details as I can if needed. Thanks

  2. #2
    Active Member Two Rings Jgreenway's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    369095
    Location
    TN, U.S.A

    Make sure that the march in your columns meet the arrows on your number 6 bearings, also make sure that your top dead center matches with your cam gear, as long as everything else matches up and looks good you should be fine, make sure to set your crankshaft about one to one and a half minutes ahead of top dead center so that your when your tensioner releases and adds pressure to it it will allow it to draw the crank back to where it should be, as far as doing the tensioner I'll just use the C-clamp and made my own special key for it

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Audizine mobile app

  3. #3
    Active Member One Ring Afrckenway's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 11 2016
    AZ Member #
    370122
    Location
    Tampa Fl

    I found why there's such a problem. When you're setting the timing tensioner, it can't take slack off the other side of the belt without pulling either the cam or crank
    out of place. Your advice worked but unfortunately I won't ever get it spot on because there isn't a proper alignment
    of tooth position allowing it. Seems to run fine, theres more lifter noise than before and some noticeable shaking but it doesnt seem to be much worse than it was before.
    There's no p0011 code either, hoping im in the clear. I still have a myriad of problems to sort out like the coolant rising from 175 to 195 and dropping back down every 2-3
    minutes since i did the flush and fill. Oh, and the airbag sensor i have to repin when the bumper fell

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