Planned carbon clean, chain and tensioner - what else while its disassembled?

[Okedokey]

So...

As some of you must have read, I am soon to get the final parts i need to do a complete valve carbon clean and cam chain/tensioner renewal with the HPFP cam follower and oring as well.

I am also going to paint the valve cover while i am at it and replace all the stretch screws.

What else could/should i consider maintaining while i have it apart?

Thanks!

[shahk62]

Potentially look at converting your fuel pump bolts to studs?

Also do a cooling system refresh (expansion bottle, sensors, thermostat)


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[Ringsby4]

As preventative maintenance seeing its a relatively low cost item,replace the Fuel pressure regulator valve with the latest 126 bar revision.
Here:http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ll-Replacement
Because its a bitch to do as a one off job later...

[Okedokey]

Ah nice, fellas. Good points. Ill look into both of those. Thank you.

[aluthman]

Replace your coolant flange on the back of the head.

As preventative maintenance seeing its a relatively low cost item,replace the Fuel pressure regulator valve with the latest 126 bar revision.
Here:http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ll-Replacement
Because its a bitch to do as a one off job later...

It takes 10 minutes to replace it with the manifold installed. If you plan on replacing it, you should get the RS4 valve (136 bar IIRC) or a higher pressure aftermarket valve.

[Ringsby4]

Replace your coolant flange on the back of the head.



It takes 10 minutes to replace it with the manifold installed. If you plan on replacing it, you should get the RS4 valve (136 bar IIRC) or a higher pressure aftermarket valve.

Adam,just saying what others have found,personally I've never done it but will when I do a repeat of okedokey's project and I'm just guessing it won't be too much of a problem ( reminder to ones self-"pride comes before a fall " Lol ! )...
As far as the RS4 valve,to quote Mec "To date, the only options are:
1. Buy the RS4 Pressure Regulator Valve(PRV) though this is not optimal for our cars.
2. Contact HPFPupgrade.com and buy one of their valves. It is recommended to buy a valve that is 10 bar above what you plan to run."
However OD,I just have the OEM upgrade as not running a modd'd HPFP.

[aluthman]

If you have a set of crow's feet, some extensions, and a ratchet, it's not that bad to swap out. I'm not sure why Martin said the RS4 PRV is not optimal, as many have successfully run it on off the shelf 130 bar upgraded hpfp tunes.

[Ringsby4]

If you have a set of crow's feet, some extensions, and a ratchet, it's not that bad to swap out. I'm not sure why Martin said the RS4 PRV is not optimal, as many have successfully run it on off the shelf 130 bar upgraded hpfp tunes.

Interesting,yep it wouldn't be too much of a problem,its just whilst he has all the ancillary stuff off,well that was my thinking with my job...
I think OD's and my car have done a lot of miles with that little spring + mushroom poppet valve just bouncing away....( well maybe not bouncing as I imagine its a slow build-up at times and then gradual pressure release-yes ? ) Still its amazing how many duty cycles similar parts can endure
Also Mec may have been talking stock HPFP no tune ?

[Okedokey]

Mine has only got just over 60K miles, stage 1 tune essentially (BSR stage 2) and a stock HPFP with cam follower changed about 5K ago. Going to replace it anyway since it comes with the kit and i didn't replace the o-ring last time.

So what's the verdict?

Coolant flange - might leave this to later
PRV on HPFP? - purchased a RS4 one.

[Ringsby4]

Mine has only got just over 60K miles, stage 1 tune essentially (BSR stage 2) and a stock HPFP with cam follower changed about 5K ago. Going to replace it anyway since it comes with the kit and i didn't replace the o-ring last time.

So what's the verdict?

Coolant flange
PRV on HPFP?

Whilst I'm doing my job ( your job as well ! ) I'm replacing the coolant flange for sure,so much has to be got out of the way which we probably doing any way and if youre keeping the car the replacement would be inevitable.What kit do you speak of ? and mine 80k miles..

[Okedokey]

Whilst I'm doing my job ( your job as well ! ) I'm replacing the coolant flange for sure,so much has to be got out of the way which we probably doing any way and if youre keeping the car the replacement would be inevitable.What kit do you speak of ? and mine 80k miles..

The timing chain and tensioner kit from ECS.

[Ringsby4]

The timing chain and tensioner kit from ECS.

Ah,and I'm guessing the O ring you mention is on the HPFP,
Now as far as the PRV maybe I'm being over cautious replacing it as a preventative measure,but having said that I have a brand new HPFP I'm throwing in too as the regulator on the top of the pump can and do fail,but this is not the PRV we are talking about...The one on the top is not AFAIK know obtainable as a spare part.
The PRV we are talking about is this :https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...oem-06d130757c
Does that make sense?
As far as my situ ,there's a plan with all this as I will eventually part out the car and re-install the current pump and sell the new one with low Km's to someone who wants to rebuild it to higher spec.

[Okedokey]

Yeah thats what i purchased mate.

[Okedokey]

So I've managed to remove the intake manifold, HPFP etc and cleaned the valves and injectors. They were pretty with the exception of the middle two that were cleaner due to sea foaming recently. Cam follower showed no wear at all after 5 thousand km.

Now for the cam chain and tensioner.

[Okedokey]

Ok so I am getting there. I need a different tool for the bottom Torx 25 bit on the bottom back of the vacumme pump. Anyone got any ideas. I am thinking this:



While I wait to get the tool i painted the valve cover lol and replaced the fuel filter.

[Ringsby4]

Good work,keep it up man ! I just bought this spline bit set,2 day delivery ,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221413541...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Has more options than what you are proposing has two lengths in Spline bits and has 2 drive adapters that could adapt to a 90 deg air ratchet driver ( to get those friggin H/balancer spline bolts out quickly !

[Okedokey]

I have something similar but they're too wide to get into the 'crevice' where the bottom bolt is. Even a socket torx is too wide thus the idea of a torx wrench.

PS Im actually quite happy with how clean it looks under the valve cover.

[Ringsby4]

I have something similar but they're too wide to get into the 'crevice' where the bottom bolt is. Even a socket torx is too wide thus the idea of a torx wrench.

PS Im actually quite happy with how clean it looks under the valve cover.

Torx/spline on a ratcheting screwdriver handle plus the option of the short or long bits gives a wide range,as a last resort a 4 or 6 inch shifter used on the hex can work wonders

[Okedokey]

Thanks mate, ill give that some thought, got this http://www.ebay.com.au/myb/PurchaseHistory?MyEbay&gbh=1 cheaper lol

[Okedokey]

Ok, bumping this, because I have finally finished. All done, runs much much better and sounds a lot quieter.

Replaced:

CAM lobe
HPFP oring, PRV, new bolts.
Injector orings and teflon seals, cleaned
Carbon clean valves and ports
Clean manifold
Painted engine cover, valve cover and RS4 left hand cover
Replaced valve cover gasket and fasteners
Replaced throttle valve gasket
timing chain, tensioner and gasket
Cleaned vacuum pump
Cleaned the N205 (i think) valve oil pressure sensor
Replaced voltage regulator
Oil change

Fairly big job, but done. Happy.