where to buy the bolts

[OlivierA4]

Problem statement:
I took my intake manifold off (not completely due to many hoses still attached ) and in the process, 3 bolts with Allen head were strip due to rust and old. I am looking to buy a replacement. does anyone please let me know where can i buy it.
Whining statement:
I searched at ECS tunning and the search engine is so horrendous it does not come up with anything close to M6x1.0x 45mm.
I went to autozone and found the bolt M6x1x45mm but i don't know how it is rated and it was not allen head like OEM. is it ok to use this bolts?
why can VW/AUDI use stainless steel on these bolts? $400 more into the cost of the car isn't terrible for a $40k plus car.

[jesse500]

Take 1 of the bolts to your local hardware/nut& bolt Co.

Will be able to match it up 100% in 30 seconds. But all new ones, either black or stainless, so its looks pretty. Probably 50-75 cents each

[Luxus Panzer]

ETKA will tell you exact bolt specs.

Then getting one in your local town will be easy.

[old guy]

Here is how it is listed in the ETKA

N 10080102 socket head bolt with hexagon socket head (combination) M6X25

Clicky click®

[OlivierA4]

thank you for all of your replies.
the bolts i need is just like OLDGUY posted however it is 45mm long. i went to to hardware stores (lowes, autozone, pepboys) and I can not find anything that match. there is one that the same length however they are not coated. it is in mild steel (soft metal) without coating. it will be rust in no time.

[diagnosticator]

Ace Hardware might have the socket head machine screws you need in stainless steel. I almost always replace OE fasteners with stainless when available.

You can order the exact bolts you need online too. https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-De...x?product=6424

The Audi dealer will have the exact OE bolt.

[old guy]

You are looking for the wrong size bolt for the intake manifold. The information I provided is correct. Here is a pic of the bolt from my intake manifold.

[Kevin C]

As Old Guy linked to, ECS is a very good option. The factory bolt appears to be a coated steel bolt, it is a well engineered piece. It does have a few nice features. Coated gets you good initial corrosion protection and the strength it typically quite good. If you can't find a local source, another option is Mcmaster-Carr. They carry a full line of bolts in various materials. You can opt for Stainless, flanged head, self locking and even vented head bolts. At work, I probably order parts from them three to four times a week. Super fast on getting order out; my orders always show up the next day. I have no clue on the shipping since a purchasing person takes care of getting the order placed.

Typical generic stainless hardware is softer than alloy steel (WAG~70,000 psi vs 170,000), but for intake bolts is usually not an issue. Also on an intake bolt, corrosion resistance is normally not an issue. I'm assuming you live in an area with road salt? Another fastener tip when using stainless is that stainless bolts and stainless nuts like to seize to each other a lot easier than plain steel. Going into an aluminum head or an iron block is not an issue. Stainless bolts and nuts, consider using a bit of antiseize. Since a lot of what I design ends up in very humid areas, I'm required to use stainless on a lot of my projects. Nice but it does have its downside.

My recommendation is a standard socket head metric fastener with a washer.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head...crews/=11tkzn6

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head...crews/=11tl9ul

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=11tla5w

[Luxus Panzer]

If you cant find one, let me know and I can mail you one or two.

I have an assortment form 20 years of Audi/VW driving ;)

[OlivierA4]

OLDGUY and other members,
thank you for helping me and please don't take it a wrong way. i appreciate every bit that you guys helping me from your valuable time. I can't stress enough on this.
i think we might think of different A4 B6? my is A4 B6 3.0L ATM. this is the bolt that i got it out from my intake unless i screwed up and take it out from something else that does not call intake which might be a case since I am very very new and still learning :)

this is the bolt


this is the thing I called INTAKE manifold (please correct me if i called it wrong)



Dirt Valley (not Death Valley)



Broken spacers.



while I am digging in this deep into the engine bay ( i am short and working with a stool in order to reach into the back of the engine bay).
1) should I change some filter under the oval black box? where can I buy it?
2) where can I buy those plastic broken spacers?


I found a few bolts that match to what I need from MCMASTERCARR.com (Stainless steel). I will buy it tomorrow and use anti seize on it along with washer in replace of the original bolt that has built in flange/washer.

[old guy]

I apologize. I thought you had a 1.8T. The bolt you want is part number N10300805. Clicky click®

[old guy]

Here is a great resource for looking up part numbers for different components. With this you can find the part number for pretty much any component on your vehicle. It takes a little digging at times but they are all in there: Clicky click® Just plug in your VIN number and search from there.

[OlivierA4]

OLDGUY, no need to apologize. your knowledge on Audi and your contribution to help others are priceless in-measurable. it is as simple as I zig and you zag. and thank you for your quick update of part number and where to buy it.

[SJorge3442]

OLDGUY and other members,
thank you for helping me and please don't take it a wrong way. i appreciate every bit that you guys helping me from your valuable time. I can't stress enough on this.
i think we might think of different A4 B6? my is A4 B6 3.0L ATM. this is the bolt that i got it out from my intake unless i screwed up and take it out from something else that does not call intake which might be a case since I am very very new and still learning :)

this is the bolt


this is the thing I called INTAKE manifold (please correct me if i called it wrong)



Dirt Valley (not Death Valley)



Broken spacers.



while I am digging in this deep into the engine bay ( i am short and working with a stool in order to reach into the back of the engine bay).
1) should I change some filter under the oval black box? where can I buy it?
2) where can I buy those plastic broken spacers?


I found a few bolts that match to what I need from MCMASTERCARR.com (Stainless steel). I will buy it tomorrow and use anti seize on it along with washer in replace of the original bolt that has built in flange/washer.

Don't worry about the plastic alignment pins. Just be careful when you align the manifold back down. Also make sure you clean up any plastic that may have fallen into the engine.

Also, there's no filters in the valley pan. Just check valves. I wouldn't go in there unless you have low oil pressure issues.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[imnuts]

There are 2 bolts that are longer on the 3.0 on the intake manifold that are on the back left, as you're looking at the car from the front, just so you're aware. They hold the intake silencer to the block, but that could be removed if you wanted. Also, the plastic pieces are alignment pins, not spacers. They just help get the intake manifold into the correct spot. I broke both of mine as well, and I don't really see how they're useful as the intake had a spot that it just fell into with slight wiggle room when I was putting it back on without the pins.

[diagnosticator]

As Old Guy linked to, ECS is a very good option. The factory bolt appears to be a coated steel bolt, it is a well engineered piece. It does have a few nice features. Coated gets you good initial corrosion protection and the strength it typically quite good. If you can't find a local source, another option is Mcmaster-Carr. They carry a full line of bolts in various materials. You can opt for Stainless, flanged head, self locking and even vented head bolts. At work, I probably order parts from them three to four times a week. Super fast on getting order out; my orders always show up the next day. I have no clue on the shipping since a purchasing person takes care of getting the order placed.

Typical generic stainless hardware is softer than alloy steel (WAG~70,000 psi vs 170,000), but for intake bolts is usually not an issue. Also on an intake bolt, corrosion resistance is normally not an issue. I'm assuming you live in an area with road salt? Another fastener tip when using stainless is that stainless bolts and stainless nuts like to seize to each other a lot easier than plain steel. Going into an aluminum head or an iron block is not an issue. Stainless bolts and nuts, consider using a bit of antiseize. Since a lot of what I design ends up in very humid areas, I'm required to use stainless on a lot of my projects. Nice but it does have its downside.

My recommendation is a standard socket head metric fastener with a washer.

Kevin, are you really concerned about the strength of stainless steel in aluminum alloy threads? In iron threads, (and AL), if there is a lot of corrosion (rust,) what happens to the strength of the bolt? Except for head bolts, main bearing cap, and conrod bolts, stainless steel is more than strong enough. For areas where salt is used on the roads, stainless steel fasteners eliminate a lot of problems.
The problem: "3 bolts with Allen head were strip due to rust". Stainless is the solution. You state that there is a downside to stainless steel, and imply that carbon steel does not have any downsides, leaving an incomplete conclusion.

BTW OP, 8ea, 6mm X 25mm socket head cap screws are the correct size confirmed in ETKA. However there are more than 8 bolts holding the manifold to the head.

[SJorge3442]

Also, I hope you're fixing the PCV system while you're doing all this. Spotted this broken pipe in your picture.

[Kevin C]

Kevin, are you really concerned about the strength of stainless steel in aluminum alloy threads? In iron threads, (and AL), if there is a lot of corrosion (rust,) what happens to the strength of the bolt? Except for head bolts, main bearing cap, and conrod bolts, stainless steel is more than strong enough. For areas where salt is used on the roads, stainless steel fasteners eliminate a lot of problems.
The problem: "3 bolts with Allen head were strip due to rust". Stainless is the solution. You state that there is a downside to stainless steel, and imply that carbon steel does not have any downsides, leaving an incomplete conclusion.

BTW OP, 8ea, 6mm X 25mm socket head cap screws are the correct size confirmed in ETKA. However there are more than 8 bolts holding the manifold to the head.

Reread my post. No, I'm not concerned with the strength of SS bolts for the intake. What I'm pointing out is that if you're changing all your bolts from what the factory supplied, there are several factors to consider. The improved corrosion resistance of generic SS bolts , comes with a price of 50% lower strength. The factory piece has a coating. The coating "gives good initial corrosion resistance". It eventually fails, nothing more, nothing less. Typically it would have had to pass a 300 hour salt spary test.

Given the age of the car, a new set of factory fasteners will more than likely have their coating intact well after that car is out of service.

Every part is a compromise of features and cost. Its pretty rare to be able to get an across the part win on all features and on cost. I thought it would be useful to help provide a bigger picture on the differences. If you replace the M6 ( from memory) bolts that hold your front pulley to the damper with a generic SS bolt your results won't be good.

I disagree with the statement that there are only three bolts you need need to worry about and that the rest are can be replaced with lower grade fasteners without concerned (off the top of my head, there are several other bolts that are either highly stressed and or TTY). One good rule would be to never substitute a TTY bolt with a generic replacment. The real point I wanted to get out was that there are significant differences in strength that are alloy dependent; its at least worthwhile to be aware of them.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Our site has one of the best on line catalogs for European parts available! Though it helps if you know the part numbers you are looking for or at least a category- for example ( "Intake Manifold". Simply entering the size may not yield you many hits because our site is not organized in that fashion, but rather by ES number/MFG number/Category. You are able to search terms like "bolt", "nut" "washer" but it will pull up every item in our data base that can be referenced with that term.



Jason

[GrapeBandit]

need bolts in a pinch? ACE Hardware.
have time to wait? Fastenal

/thread

[deyrag]

http://etka.cc/audi/part_single/cata...6/lang/e#sec_2

[OlivierA4]

Also, I hope you're fixing the PCV system while you're doing all this. Spotted this broken pipe in your picture.

Jorge,
I opened the Intake Manifold to replace my breather hose with heater hose like you and "SlickFIX" did. yes, that OEM breather hose broke off when I move the IM.
Olivier

[OlivierA4]

thank you everyone. with help from members, i was able to secure those bolts that I need.
Olivier