Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings Polski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 21 2009
    AZ Member #
    48085
    My Garage
    B7 S-line Avant 2.0TFSI 6SMT
    Location
    Montreal
    Items for Sale

    DIY fixing "bloated" S-line door blades

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    I've made a little DIY for those who can't/don't want to source a new/used door blade.
    I would label this a 1/10 in terms of mechanical complexity.

    Try it at your own risk, even though you were probably going to toss the blade out anyway.

    I couldn't find anything online that could fix the issue I had, so here it is:

    My door blade was sticking out to the point that opening the rear passenger door would make a loud pop noise (the rear door blade hitting the front door blade while opening the door). I would say it was sticking out a good 1/4 inch.

    In my case, the tabs and screws were fine, the blade simply had expanded from the inside due to water infiltration and rust building up. Decided I had nothing to loose by taking it apart and trying to fix it.

    Tools:

    - Cross head screwdriver
    - Flat head screwdriver
    - J-B Weld glue




    Step 1) Remove the two screws securing the door blade with the cross head screwdriver, then slide the blade to the left (passenger side) or to the right (driver's side).







    Step 2) With the blade out, remove the three plastic parts (1,2,3) as shown, I simply pried them out with the flat head. Warning, parts 1 and 3 will need to be broken off, no worries, J-B weld will hold them in place.





    Step 3) Gently pull back the plastic that was underneath, you will find the culprit that was pushing out the door blade (rust). Take a flat head screw driver and scrape it all out.





    Should look a little something like this when you're done.





    Step 4) Put some J-B weld along the whole line and snap parts (1,2,3) back to their original position. Make sure parts 1 and 3 are as flush as possible with the cover. Be careful not to get J-B weld into the threads of parts 1 and 3. Part 2 doesn't really need the J-B weld as it snaps back into position but I put some anyway. Let the glue cure, I used clamps on it over night so that nothing moves while it bonds, it also keeps part 1 and 3 flush.


    Part 1


    Part 2




    Step 5) Install the blade back in. I Remember to again glide it back in so the tabs line up properly, you can look from the side if the tabs are in their place. If the blade doesn't sit flush, one of the tabs probably didn't go into its socket.




    Here is the end result.








    The cost for this DIY is simply the amount of J-B weld used, thats about it, saves you the hassle of having to buy a door blade or even a full set since some buyers don't like spitting them up.
    These were B7 A4 S-line door blades, im assuming this can work on B6 or S4 door blades as well, but dont quote me on that.
    MontrealAudiClub

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings p0isin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 23 2011
    AZ Member #
    85651
    Location
    massachusetts

    Mine are pretty bad at the moment. I'll have to try this.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 24 2015
    AZ Member #
    363505
    Location
    Perth, WA

    I suspect that is from storing car outside? May be a small inconspicuous bead of silicon to prevent ingress?
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Denio24's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 23 2013
    AZ Member #
    108156
    Location
    Chicago

    I thank you for this DIY. Nice job, the polish way. I've been wanting to fix these on my own car but haven't had the time to try to fix it. Thanks for delving into this.
    Garage: 2008 Quartz Gray Audi A4Q 6MT
    Tuning: JHM Tuned Stage 2 93 Octane w/ IE HPFP

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Axis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 15 2011
    AZ Member #
    83963
    My Garage
    A4 B6 Avant | A4 B7 Sedan
    Location
    Montreal | I sell in USD
    Items for Sale

    Good job making the diy Polski! I remove them once a year to clean under, I shoot Krown rust proofing on them and on the door side.


    *****I sell in USD*****

    Click here to read my seller feedback

    B6 Avant GTX2863R Motoza Tuned Aka the part hauler

    B7 Sedan Stage II HPFP Aka the retrofitted queen


  6. #6
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 30 2015
    AZ Member #
    366505
    Location
    RI

    Finally a DIY for this!
    My Saturday project, good write up!

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings mtroxel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 24 2004
    AZ Member #
    858
    Location
    Minneapolis

    Quote Originally Posted by Axis View Post
    I remove them once a year to clean under, I shoot Krown rust proofing on them and on the door side.
    Seems like a good project. Do you just brush the Krown on the door?
    11 A4 Q, Prestge, Black
    95,000 miles, APR Stage 1

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Axis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 15 2011
    AZ Member #
    83963
    My Garage
    A4 B6 Avant | A4 B7 Sedan
    Location
    Montreal | I sell in USD
    Items for Sale

    Quote Originally Posted by mtroxel View Post
    Seems like a good project. Do you just brush the Krown on the door?
    Comes in an spray bottle at my local parts store. I get the car treated ince a year too.


    *****I sell in USD*****

    Click here to read my seller feedback

    B6 Avant GTX2863R Motoza Tuned Aka the part hauler

    B7 Sedan Stage II HPFP Aka the retrofitted queen


  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings seal66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 05 2011
    AZ Member #
    79303
    My Garage
    2008 Audi A4, 2015 Audi A3
    Location
    CO

    pretty neat fix. I was looking at doing this but never did. Now I am going to try it with my spare set to throw on the avant
    2008 Audi A4 2.0T
    320awhp/420awtq...E85---UnitedMotorsports Tuned

    2015 A3 8v P-Stock
    2003 A4 Avant 3L-sold

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Denio24's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 23 2013
    AZ Member #
    108156
    Location
    Chicago

    It probably doesn't help keeping the car outside, but after removing the rust it makes me wonder why they placed these metal inserts in the first place.
    Last edited by Denio24; 04-11-2016 at 07:59 PM.
    Garage: 2008 Quartz Gray Audi A4Q 6MT
    Tuning: JHM Tuned Stage 2 93 Octane w/ IE HPFP

  11. #11
    Senior Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 24 2015
    AZ Member #
    363505
    Location
    Perth, WA

    Quote Originally Posted by Denio24 View Post
    It probably doesn't help keeping the car outside, but after removing the rust it makes me wonder why they placed these metal inserts in the first place.
    Yeah, you could also get some phosphoric acid to nuetralise the rust and if you're super keen an epoxy primer rust proof paint. Then add a nice bead of silicon, and you will not have to do this again.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Denio24's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 23 2013
    AZ Member #
    108156
    Location
    Chicago

    Ok I have to say I just tried this, and the door blades are still the same. When the phillips screws are screwed in, the door blades go back to the same old sticking out position.
    Garage: 2008 Quartz Gray Audi A4Q 6MT
    Tuning: JHM Tuned Stage 2 93 Octane w/ IE HPFP

  13. #13
    Senior Member Four Rings Danaldson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 28 2014
    AZ Member #
    278404
    Location
    Calgary, Canada.

    Quote Originally Posted by Denio24 View Post
    Ok I have to say I just tried this, and the door blades are still the same. When the phillips screws are screwed in, the door blades go back to the same old sticking out position.
    I had the same issue as you. Tried this diy last year and didn't work at all. I gave it another shot a month or so ago, and actually pulled the door blade apart. the painted part is plastic welded to the piece that attaches to the door. Break the plastic welds, clean everything out and then re glue or plastic weld.

    Before:


    After:
    09 TT VR6 Quattro Manual Ibis S-Line.
    Instagram: @Dannytakesphotos
    ~Progression thread~
    -Danny

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Denio24's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 23 2013
    AZ Member #
    108156
    Location
    Chicago

    Quote Originally Posted by Danaldson View Post
    I had the same issue as you. Tried this diy last year and didn't work at all. I gave it another shot a month or so ago, and actually pulled the door blade apart. the painted part is plastic welded to the piece that attaches to the door. Break the plastic welds, clean everything out and then re glue or plastic weld.
    Did you end up removing the metal part altogether?
    Garage: 2008 Quartz Gray Audi A4Q 6MT
    Tuning: JHM Tuned Stage 2 93 Octane w/ IE HPFP

  15. #15
    Senior Member Four Rings Danaldson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 28 2014
    AZ Member #
    278404
    Location
    Calgary, Canada.

    Quote Originally Posted by Denio24 View Post
    Did you end up removing the metal part altogether?
    I hope polski doesnt mind me editing his photo, but yes, you need to remove what he did here in the photo and clean out all the gunk, but you also need to break apart the welded plastic along the thick red line and the painted exterior portion will come apart from the inner assembly.

    [IMG]180t8p by daniel donaldson, on Flickr[/IMG]
    09 TT VR6 Quattro Manual Ibis S-Line.
    Instagram: @Dannytakesphotos
    ~Progression thread~
    -Danny

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings Polski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 21 2009
    AZ Member #
    48085
    My Garage
    B7 S-line Avant 2.0TFSI 6SMT
    Location
    Montreal
    Items for Sale

    I'm glad you guys liked it!



    Quote Originally Posted by Denio24 View Post
    Ok I have to say I just tried this, and the door blades are still the same. When the phillips screws are screwed in, the door blades go back to the same old sticking out position.

    Denio24, your door blades might have more oxidation on the inside than mine did, I would try what Danaldson suggested and take the whole thing apart at this point.

    Its very important that the two little pieces with the thread are as flush as possible with the side plastic when glueing it back.

    I even glued mine in a bit deeper than flush, its hard to see from this angle:

    MontrealAudiClub

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings Polski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 21 2009
    AZ Member #
    48085
    My Garage
    B7 S-line Avant 2.0TFSI 6SMT
    Location
    Montreal
    Items for Sale

    Quote Originally Posted by Axis View Post
    Good job making the diy Polski! I remove them once a year to clean under, I shoot Krown rust proofing on them and on the door side.

    Thank you!

    thats a good call, I'll definitely go pick some up.
    MontrealAudiClub

  18. #18
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 17 2016
    AZ Member #
    371959
    Location
    kc

    Just fixed my warped blades this morning. Didnt have jb weld so I used my wife's hot glue gun. Hope it holds. Thx for the info!

  19. #19
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2012
    AZ Member #
    88827
    Location
    Hudson, Qc.

    Will try this real soon, same problem with both back doors on the avant also. Thanks for the DIY !

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings mtroxel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 24 2004
    AZ Member #
    858
    Location
    Minneapolis

    Did mine a couple weeks ago. None needed any attention, just cleaned them out good. But, on the RR door there was just a bit of rust starting in the door steel around the screw holes so take a good look for that too. I sanded with a Dremel wire brush, primed and painted. Doesn't look pretty, but doesn't need to. Let it cure for a week before I put the blade back on. And even then I put a thin layer of RTV on the blade where it presses against the steel just to cushion it a bit. Let that cure for a couple days before putting it all back together.
    11 A4 Q, Prestge, Black
    95,000 miles, APR Stage 1

  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings Mech_Mike412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 06 2016
    AZ Member #
    375782
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA USA

    What's the best/cleanest way to break the plastic welds?

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    2008 Audi A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT
    K&N Filter - ECS Turbo Inlet Hose - ECS Vent Boost Gauge - GFB Diverter Valve - Morimoto 3000K HID Fogs - JHM Stage 1 93oct - CTS Charge Pipes - CTS Catback Exhaust

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings mtroxel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 24 2004
    AZ Member #
    858
    Location
    Minneapolis

    Quote Originally Posted by Mech_Mike412 View Post
    What's the best/cleanest way to break the plastic welds?

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Not sure what you mean. Mine pretty much came right off. No plastic welds to deal with.
    11 A4 Q, Prestge, Black
    95,000 miles, APR Stage 1

  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings Mech_Mike412's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 06 2016
    AZ Member #
    375782
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA USA

    I thought someone talked about taking the whole blade apart too, not just the three pieces. The bow on mine is pretty bad. I already cleaned out the rust but I'm not sure if that will be enough considering the amount of bow mine has

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    2008 Audi A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT
    K&N Filter - ECS Turbo Inlet Hose - ECS Vent Boost Gauge - GFB Diverter Valve - Morimoto 3000K HID Fogs - JHM Stage 1 93oct - CTS Charge Pipes - CTS Catback Exhaust

  24. #24
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 30 2017
    AZ Member #
    398700
    Location
    Denver Colorado

    I did this on my avant only I did not re use the metal pieces inside the blades themselves. I threw them away and just JB welded the door blade to the car itself and boom was done and good to go. Has been solid and held in place for 6 months now. Keep in mind I live in the High rockies so the car is always subject to harsh weather conditions.

  25. #25
    Established Member Two Rings tigger_78's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 30 2013
    AZ Member #
    127743

    Did something similar - I completely disassembled each blade and removed the metal strip that is prone to rusting (just a poor design decision IMO - its not needed if using some type of glue/adhesive afterwards). Throughly cleaned each piece and then used JB weld to put everything back together. No more worrying about future rusting and I can still remove the blades from the doors to clean out any dirt that accumulates (and wow, can it build up!).
    2008 A4 3.2 Avant Titanium Ibis White
    2008 A3 3.2 S-Line Ice Silver (for the missus)



Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2018 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.