Planning repair and mod list for (new to me) C6 - Some questions

[ThermonMermon]

Hey guys,

I will be purchasing a 3.2 quattro from an older family member. I am unsure which exact year it is, but it’s either an 07 or 08…will find out shortly. I am super excited and starting to put together a to-do list. The color combo is very rare, and I have been eyeing this car for awhile. They bought it CPO from a dealer in ~2010-2011, and the car is well equipped.

The car is midnight blue on amaretto with the S-Line package (black headliner, dark cherry wood, wood shifter, wood steering wheel, HIDs, nav, etc). Car has about 56k miles. Overall, the car is in good condition, no dings, but the TPMS sensor and wiper fluid sensors are faulty (i.e. constant dinging on the dash for both), and there are some scuffs on the bumpers and one of the doors. Also, the key FOBs routinely crap out, maybe due to faulty battery connectors in the remote.

I am planning on:

-Respraying the bumpers, and taking care of the door scuff. Possibly pre-painted aftermarket rear bumper
-Lower on springs (this is a D.D., so nothing aggressive, eibach or H&R, just looking to lessen the wheel gap)
-Fix the TPMS and wiper sensors; or potentially disable entirely
-Debadge
-19 inchers, perhaps Hartman B4 replicas (dual 7-spokes)
-Lip spoiler
-Tint, maybe. The interior is worthy of the fishbowl look


Some questions:

1. How is the fitment / build quality of the Hartmann B4 dual 7-spokes? I see other members have them.
2. Whats a reasonable priced all seasons and tire size would for 19x8.5?
3. How does the drop differ between Eibach and H&R springs?
4. How do I tell if the car has sport suspension installed? I heard the 07 S-Lines have sport shocks standard, and are better suited for just the springs. If the car turns out to be an 08, then there is a possibility that the S-Line package doesn’t have sport shocks, which is a standalone option. My understanding is that if the car doesn’t have sport shocks, I’d be better off with a coilover system rather just the springs. Given the way the car is optioned out (it was a dealer car and bought used in 2010), I would think it does have sport shocks.
5. How much should I expect to pay for a body shop to respray 2 bumpers and a small area on one of the doors (NJ area)? I am hearing anywhere between $500-$2000, which is a wide range. Maybe if they sell pre-painted aftermarket bumpers, particularly the rear, then maybe I could buy that in lieu. Not sure if such thing exists, or if it will still require a body shop to blend the paint. Anyone have any insight on pre-painted aftermarket bumpers? Or how much I should really expect to pay to respray the stock bumpers without it being a shotty job?
6. How do I fix the faulty sensors? I am thinking maybe I just disengage them by pulling the fuse, and live without it. I know the current owner tried to get a mechanic to fix the sensors, and he was unable too. Audi fixed it once, but it broke again. Also, if I am changing the wheels, it may make even more sense to not fiddle around with re-installing TPMS in the new wheels knowing that it is faulty to being with.
7. Looking for a simple pre-paint lip spoiler. 1 pc., not 3. Any recommended vendors?
8. The car is 8 years old, and has been garaged maybe half the time, i.e. its sat in the sun quite a bit. Do you think it is worth attempting to debadge, or will the paint be off-colored? Also, does this car have pin holes that need to be filled and painted (removing “A6” and “3.2” only).
Thanks, everyone!!

[ThermonMermon]

Interior looks like this (although I think the photo is that of the sport seats, which are more heavily bolstered up front)

[whef21]

To answer your question on the lip spoiler, a popular choice among c6 drivers is the Seat Cupra R lip spoiler. I know you can get it through a website called "ecstuning.com". I wanna say it's like $50, but I may be wrong. Overall, I'd say you'll have an easy time buying most of your parts on this site

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[whef21]

Also, I'm about 80% sure that the badges for the "A6" and "3.2" are held on with an adhesive, since mine seems to have become loose

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[whef21]

Here's the link for the spoiler, it's actually $75 but I was close lol

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[whef21]

Here's the link for the spoiler, it's actually $75 but I was close lol

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https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit..._R_Lip/ES7754/

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[ThermonMermon]

thanks! Sorry, I meant a rear lip spoiler for the trunk.

[whef21]

My mistake haha, there aren't too many that are one piece tbh, most have the straight piece along the top of the trunk lid and then come down on the ends

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[whef21]

I'm pretty sure ecs offers one as well, but I also know a guy who specializes in making custom c6 parts, and he's got a custom c6 "duck tail" spoiler he's about to release for sail if you're interested!

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[rdauer26]

Congrats on your purchase! I also have the same color combo. Nothing beats the amaretto! I have the S-Line trim also and I do not believe I have the sport suspension. It is a 08.

[SinCityA6]

1. How is the fitment / build quality of the Hartmann B4 dual 7-spokes? I see other members have them.
If you are going for an OEM look from an aftermarket manufacturer, Hartmann is your best bet. I have heard nothing but good things about them.
2. Whats a reasonable priced all seasons and tire size would for 19x8.5? Tire prices vary widely between types of tires and munfacturer. Stick with brand name tires and make sure they are weight rated appropriately. These are heavy cars and require a sturdy tire. Tire size should be 255/35/19
3. How does the drop differ between Eibach and H&R springs? Eibach seems to be less aggressive that the H&R sport springs. I am running the H&R sport springs and experienced an almost 2" drop from a standard non-sports suspension ride height.
4. How do I tell if the car has sport suspension installed? I heard the 07 S-Lines have sport shocks standard, and are better suited for just the springs. If the car turns out to be an 08, then there is a possibility that the S-Line package doesn’t have sport shocks, which is a standalone option. My understanding is that if the car doesn’t have sport shocks, I’d be better off with a coilover system rather just the springs. Given the way the car is optioned out (it was a dealer car and bought used in 2010), I would think it does have sport shocks. In the truck, inside the wheel well should be a sticker with option codes. Look for this and decode it to see how the car was optioned from the factory.
5. How much should I expect to pay for a body shop to respray 2 bumpers and a small area on one of the doors (NJ area)? I am hearing anywhere between $500-$2000, which is a wide range. Maybe if they sell pre-painted aftermarket bumpers, particularly the rear, then maybe I could buy that in lieu. Not sure if such thing exists, or if it will still require a body shop to blend the paint. Anyone have any insight on pre-painted aftermarket bumpers? Or how much I should really expect to pay to respray the stock bumpers without it being a shotty job? I would stay away from pre-painted parts (unless you find them from an existing vehicle) and go with a quality respray. When repainting the bumpers, you will need to fade the paint into the body so that there is not a visible color difference. I would hazard a guess that you are looking at $1k-1500 for it to be done right.
6. How do I fix the faulty sensors? I am thinking maybe I just disengage them by pulling the fuse, and live without it. I know the current owner tried to get a mechanic to fix the sensors, and he was unable too. Audi fixed it once, but it broke again. Also, if I am changing the wheels, it may make even more sense to not fiddle around with re-installing TPMS in the new wheels knowing that it is faulty to being with. The TPMS on that car runs off sensors connected to the valve stem. Generally, it is a failing battery that causes the issue. If switching to new wheels, you can replace all the sensors with new or dont put any on the wheel and disable through VAGCOM. As for the wiper fluid sensor, this appears to be a pretty easy fix and there is a write-up on this forum on how to do it.
7. Looking for a simple pre-paint lip spoiler. 1 pc., not 3. Any recommended vendors? Answered already by Whef21.
8. The car is 8 years old, and has been garaged maybe half the time, i.e. its sat in the sun quite a bit. Do you think it is worth attempting to debadge, or will the paint be off-colored? Also, does this car have pin holes that need to be filled and painted (removing “A6” and “3.2” only).
Thanks, everyone!! Debadging is pretty easy as they are only held on with adhesive. No pin holes to worry about. Over 8 yrs, the paint may be faded around the badging but I highly doubt it would be noticable. Take a hair drier, some fishing line and Goo-B-Gone and remove them. Heat the badge with the hair drier for a minute or so and then use the fishing line to seperate the badge from the paint. Clean the remaining sticky residue off with the Goo-B-Gone.

Oh, and by the way, 1st rule of this forum is "Pics or it didnt happen!"

[ThermonMermon]

Just found out it's an 08, so now I am unsure if it has sports suspension. I have driven it a few times, and there is nothing really "sport" about it, but then again, its an 8 yr old midsized sedan.

[ThermonMermon]

thanks! Very helpful. I just need to find out if it is sport or not. If sport, ill go eibach, if not, ill go h&r. unless i am thinking about this incorrectly, it should net out to the same drop.

The car is sitting with the family member now. I am using it periodically over the next few months during house shopping, and then taking possession once we are within 30-days of home closing (to cover putting temp tags on the car). i.e. we dont want to register the car twice (NY then NJ). The car purchase is basically title, in exchange of 3-years of lease payments on a loaded Subaru Outback for them to replace the A6. Again, all timed with the home closing.

[ThermonMermon]

Sin,

In regards to vagcom to disable TPMS, is this something that dealers have? Or mechanics? Sorry, just dont know much about it.

Trying to figure out if I get this done at the tire shop (when i replace the wheels) or the body shop (when i repaint the bumpers).

[se.farrell]

3. How does the drop differ between Eibach and H&R springs?
Not sure about the difference. But, I had H&R's on sport suspension... I don't remember the drop, it was somewhere between 1.4 and 1.6". But I do remember that it came out to measure ~26.25” FTG running 255/35/19 wrapped 19x8.5 wheels. If you are interested I could actually sell you my springs. I used them for less than 5K before I went to coils.

5. How much should I expect to pay for a body shop to respray 2 bumpers and a small area on one of the doors (NJ area)? I am hearing anywhere between $500-$2000, which is a wide range. Maybe if they sell pre-painted aftermarket bumpers, particularly the rear, then maybe I could buy that in lieu. Not sure if such thing exists, or if it will still require a body shop to blend the paint. Anyone have any insight on pre-painted aftermarket bumpers? Or how much I should really expect to pay to respray the stock bumpers without it being a shotty job?
IDK about the NJ area, but I just had my read bumper resprayed. The frustrating part is that because of the plastic, it doesn't matter how much of the area is damaged, you have to respray the whole thing. I had a list of quotes; ~$1600 from the dealer, ~$1200 from the insurance choice shop, but I ended up having a guy who has done many of my cars before for $500 flat. It'll be hard to find that, good luck though!

[ThermonMermon]

^^thanks.

My wife is going to be driving this everyday to the station. She does not "know" how to drive a lowered car. She's actually a terrible driver to begin with. I guess I'll decide on Eibach or H&R once I determine if the car has sport suspension or not. IIRC, the car has a solid 4 fingers of gap with the stock 18s (to be swapped out with 19s)

I take it the cited drop for Eibach and H&R should be ADDED by 1"-1.5" if the car does have the sport suspension. I want to close the gap, but not be low enough that it requires you to consciously approach sloped parking areas. Again, wife is going to drive this like it was any other car at standard height. Plus the car will be our only car through the first winter, and will see every snowfall. I was thinking Eibach with sport suspension, or H&R with standard suspension.

...

Did they respray the entire bumper AND blend it into the fenders? Or was it a basic bumper removal, paint on stand, and remount?

[Garryg]

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit..._R_Lip/ES7754/

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How easy is the Supra Lip to fit? Are there any threads covering the fitting?

Cheers

[cal3thousand]

How easy is the Supra Lip to fit? Are there any threads covering the fitting?

Cheers

This is a decently shaped lip, used on MANY europeans out there, but IMO is too small for the A6.

[SinCityA6]

Sin,

In regards to vagcom to disable TPMS, is this something that dealers have? Or mechanics? Sorry, just dont know much about it.

Trying to figure out if I get this done at the tire shop (when i replace the wheels) or the body shop (when i repaint the bumpers).

VAGCOM is a diagnostic tool for Volkswagon Auto Group cars. Dealerships and any Euro indie shop worth a shit will have one. If you are looking to do a lot of your own diagnostics and work on your car, this is a MUST HAVE. The item is manufactured by a company called Ross-Tech and is available for purhase by anyone. Do yourself a favor and spend the $350-$400 for one.

[se.farrell]

^^thanks.

My wife is going to be driving this everyday to the station. She does not "know" how to drive a lowered car. She's actually a terrible driver to begin with. I guess I'll decide on Eibach or H&R once I determine if the car has sport suspension or not. IIRC, the car has a solid 4 fingers of gap with the stock 18s (to be swapped out with 19s)

I take it the cited drop for Eibach and H&R should be ADDED by 1"-1.5" if the car does have the sport suspension. I want to close the gap, but not be low enough that it requires you to consciously approach sloped parking areas. Again, wife is going to drive this like it was any other car at standard height. Plus the car will be our only car through the first winter, and will see every snowfall. I was thinking Eibach with sport suspension, or H&R with standard suspension.

The H&R's

...

Did they respray the entire bumper AND blend it into the fenders? Or was it a basic bumper removal, paint on stand, and remount?

The H&R’s are a good way to drop the car without having to know how to drive a lowered car. I don’t think I would recommend pairing them with the non-sport suspension as the car will most likely rub in the rear because the springs are not paired with the shocks (this can be fixed by adjusting camber though). I would rub (only rear) sometimes with 4 people in the car or if it hit big dips at speed, given I did not run much camber in the back and my PSS tires are meaty. But, I could mob around town and not worry about bumps (for the most part), your wife will have no problem. Driving with my coils now is a whole different story, I creep through big dips and average ones if I’m coming in at an angle. If I am forgetful I but that bumper on the ground haha.

Bumper was blended. It looks really good. I can tell that the quality is not the same as from the dealer (whom I believe guarantees the work to be perfect?). But it’s because I am a psycho and no one else could tell the difference. At first I almost took it back, but I just pocket the extra cash for another project.

[Quattrocentric]

Hey Chris, I don't know that the TPMS can be disabled through VAGcom - if there is a way to do it I have never been able to find it. I bought my Blizzaks mounted and balanced on rims with no TPMS, and tried to find a way to disable without paying to remount and balance again. I figure I'll just live with it for another season or two and buy sensors to install when I buy new tires.
Maybe the C6.5 has the option?

Truth is TPMS prices are so low now that OP should just buy a new set when he gets the new Hartmanns. I got a set from oewheelsllc.com for about $140 iirc, which sure as hell beats the $135 each I was first quoted when I got my car.

@ThermonMermon if you decide to go this route you will need 433MHz sensors for your car. Congrats on the purchase, btw, and welcome!

Also - I'll put in my two cent endorsement for the H&R springs as well as an inexpensive way to drop your car, but if you decide to go the coilover route look at ST Coilovers. They are "budget" coilovers (around $750 - $800). I have a set on my wife's car that has served me well for the last three years, and they give close to a factory ride.

[ThermonMermon]

The H&R’s are a good way to drop the car without having to know how to drive a lowered car. I don’t think I would recommend pairing them with the non-sport suspension as the car will most likely rub in the rear because the springs are not paired with the shocks (this can be fixed by adjusting camber though). I would rub (only rear) sometimes with 4 people in the car or if it hit big dips at speed, given I did not run much camber in the back and my PSS tires are meaty. But, I could mob around town and not worry about bumps (for the most part), your wife will have no problem. Driving with my coils now is a whole different story, I creep through big dips and average ones if I’m coming in at an angle. If I am forgetful I but that bumper on the ground haha.

Bumper was blended. It looks really good. I can tell that the quality is not the same as from the dealer (whom I believe guarantees the work to be perfect?). But it’s because I am a psycho and no one else could tell the difference. At first I almost took it back, but I just pocket the extra cash for another project.

sorry, could you elaborate on the springs rubbing in a non-sport suspension? I thought having springs on the sport suspension would be more aggressive.

Does the same hold true to eibach springs?

....not terribly interested in the coilovers...car is already 8 year sold, and i dont want to invest $5k+ to get it up to speed (wheels/tires/suspension/labor/paint repair,etc).

[Quattrocentric]

sorry, could you elaborate on the springs rubbing in a non-sport suspension? I thought having springs on the sport suspension would be more aggressive.

Does the same hold true to eibach springs?

....not terribly interested in the coilovers...car is already 8 year sold, and i dont want to invest $5k+ to get it up to speed (wheels/tires/suspension/labor/paint repair,etc).

The rubbing that he is referring to is the rubbing of the tires on the inside of the fender well on a lowered car. Since the sport springs are shorter, they compress the shock continually and because the standard shocks are not as firm as the sport shocks they won't support the body over the wheel as well, hence the rubbing.
I believe the eibach springs are firmer than the H&R's, which will mitigate this somewhat, but deliver a harsher ride quality.

[ThermonMermon]

thanks!

just to back up a bit -- given the age of the car, and that its german (granted only 56k miles), i told myself that i would drive it until i am hit with the first major major repair bill (say $3 to 4k+). That said, do you think this car has a lot more legs to it until i get to that point? Trying to figure out if spending that type of cash to do cosmetic upgrades is worth it. how many years do you think this vehicle has to go until i start running into major problems? (probably putting 7k miles a year on it). its a 2008, purchased from the dealer in 2011 (cpo then), with 56k miles currently. Dont know about the first owner, but my family member (second owner), cited $60 for oil changes and nothing more. They have obviously never addressed the electronical gremlins, but no mechanical issues to date.

Thanks!

[Nizmo]

thanks!

just to back up a bit -- given the age of the car, and that its german (granted only 56k miles), i told myself that i would drive it until i am hit with the first major major repair bill (say $3 to 4k+). That said, do you think this car has a lot more legs to it until i get to that point? Trying to figure out if spending that type of cash to do cosmetic upgrades is worth it. how many years do you think this vehicle has to go until i start running into major problems? (probably putting 7k miles a year on it). its a 2008, purchased from the dealer in 2011 (cpo then), with 56k miles currently. Dont know about the first owner, but my family member (second owner), cited $60 for oil changes and nothing more. They have obviously never addressed the electronical gremlins, but no mechanical issues to date.

Thanks!

Is that a real question? I know your excited, but the car you say has 56k miles... Is this your first car? If so, your going to have many years of reliable service with the vehicle.

With that said, if the first repair bill around 3K is gonna make you off the car, go get a Honda.

[ThermonMermon]

First car in awhile since I've been in NYC. I typically have gone for acuras and Lexus's in the past due to reliability. And even then I have leased. Buying an 8 yr old Audi is unusual for me. However the car is a good deal from a family member and I know the cars history. Just making sure I'm not buying this at 15k and need to drop a few k on it every year or two.

[Nizmo]

First car in awhile since I've been in NYC. I typically have gone for acuras and Lexus's in the past due to reliability. And even then I have leased. Buying an 8 yr old Audi is unusual for me. However the car is a good deal from a family member and I know the cars history. Just making sure I'm not buying this at 15k and need to drop a few k on it every year or two.

I don't want to be that guy, but in general the vehicle your looking at is very reliable, however any car can have issues.

The service history is important, receipts!

Look into the glove box, and check the manuals for dealers that have done the service. In the book, there are specific mileage points in which it would be signed of by a dealer, example 30K mileage check. Make sure those got done.

[ThermonMermon]

Will do.

The story so far is overall good - it was a dealer lease (i.e. lease to a manager at the dealership), then sold to my 60 yr old mother in 2010/11 with 30k miles as a CPO. She has put on under 25k miles over the past 5 years as a commuter. She probably has never driven faster than 70 mph, and the car hasnt seen anything past 4k rpms. I do know that after her first visit to audi, she swore she would never go back. Hence the electronic warning gremlins that have never been addressed. They have balked at the four figure requested bills from Audi and have done nothing more than the tire rotations and oil changes at their local mechanic. All I could tell so far is the faulty wiper and TPMS sensors, which should be relatively easy. As long as this car isnt notorious for tranny failures, or other major failures that would occur in a year or two from now, then I suppose I should be relatively good.

[whef21]

How easy is the Supra Lip to fit? Are there any threads covering the fitting?

Cheers

I'm sure you can find a few threads on how to do it, I myself have not but it's something I'm strongly considering! It doesn't seem too difficult, I've heard of people doing it using self tapers

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[Nizmo]

Will do.

The story so far is overall good - it was a dealer lease (i.e. lease to a manager at the dealership), then sold to my 60 yr old mother in 2010/11 with 30k miles as a CPO. She has put on under 25k miles over the past 5 years as a commuter. She probably has never driven faster than 70 mph, and the car hasnt seen anything past 4k rpms. I do know that after her first visit to audi, she swore she would never go back. Hence the electronic warning gremlins that have never been addressed. They have balked at the four figure requested bills from Audi and have done nothing more than the tire rotations and oil changes at their local mechanic. All I could tell so far is the faulty wiper and TPMS sensors, which should be relatively easy. As long as this car isnt notorious for tranny failures, or other major failures that would occur in a year or two from now, then I suppose I should be relatively good.

Overall I think you found a good deal, of course without knowing the final price.

On that specific Audi, worst case scenario would be timing chain tensioners, which don't typically fail, and Carbon build-up on the valves.

She use Premium fuel? 91/93 Octane?

[ThermonMermon]

Yes, premium fuel always.

Price is to lease her a loaded Subaru Outback ($13-15k over 36 mos) when she hands over Audi. Ill pay the upfront tax on the lease; but then again, I am not paying tax on the gifted title of the audi. She's reaching the limits of her comfort zone given the age and cost of the Audi and wants something new, bulletproof, and under warranty.

[ichi d]

If she hasn't drivien the car hard and it was babied. Your going to need a carbon cleaning now or in the near future.

[sun_dance]

If she hasn't drivien the car hard and it was babied. Your going to need a carbon cleaning now or in the near future.

+1...also you better change out the ATF, diff & transfer case fluids. These are all maintenance items which will ensure you continue to enjoy your new ride. Furthermore, get your suspension components checked for wear and tear, bushings can go on our cars both through use and age.

[Quattrocentric]

Overall I think you found a good deal, of course without knowing the final price.

On that specific Audi, worst case scenario would be timing chain tensioners, which don't typically fail, and Carbon build-up on the valves.

She use Premium fuel? 91/93 Octane?

Respectfully, Nizmo, the timing chain tensioners is the one thing I would advise that he pay careful attention to. They are pretty notorious on the 3.2 (ask me how I know. argh.) If you hear a plasticky sounding rattle for the first couple of seconds after a cold start do yourself a huge favor and immediately get the tensioners taken care of. It's about a $2500 job at the dealer, but a lot cheaper than the bent valve, wtf have I done alternative.
At 56k miles, you're probably 25 or 30 thousand miles away from this though, especially if you are religious about oil and filter changes. You MUST use synthetic VW/audi specific 502 oil. I am a Liqui-moly guy myself, and I typically change at 4k to 5k mile intervals.

If she hasn't drivien the car hard and it was babied. Your going to need a carbon cleaning now or in the near future.

Yes. This.

+1...also you better change out the ATF, diff & transfer case fluids. These are all maintenance items which will ensure you continue to enjoy your new ride. Furthermore, get your suspension components checked for wear and tear, bushings can go on our cars both through use and age.

...and this.

[SinCityA6]

in regards to sport suspension vs standard, i was able to get her to send me the model sticker in the trunk. However, the lower half of the codes were too blurry. I do have a photo of the back wheel gap. Unless I am mistaken, I would venture a guess to say that this is the standard suspension, yes?

Pic did not load....

[ThermonMermon]

[SinCityA6]

Very hard to tell what type of suspension you have from a pic, but the wheel gap would suggest that it is a non-sport suspension. Nice reflection from the paint. Looks very clean for an 8 yr old car.

[ThermonMermon]

thanks. paint is pretty good. I started up another thread on the detailing section - http://www.audizine.com/forum/forumd...ailer-s-Domain

[BluntAaronR]

I have clear corners and RS style grill, both purchased through ECS, that I never got around to installing before I sold my avant if you'd be interested. PM me if you want more details.

[ThermonMermon]

Found out the code is 1BA for standard suspension, and 1BE for sport. I could just make out 1BA on the sticker.

Guess I may ditch the spring idea. Heard some negatives about eibach and H&Rs on standard suspensions. Guess I could either do:

ST Coilovers
Eibach/H&R springs + ebay stock sport shocks
Eibach/H&R springs + Koni FSDs

Was really hoping to get the suspension done for under 1k. But looks like it'll be $700-800 for the parts and $500-700 for labor.

Also found out the current tires are less than a year old (~5k miles), all seasons. Going to be hard to justify putting them by the wayside. Maybe I'll look into getting the Harmann B4 rims but in 18s, not 19s, and re-use the tires. Not sure how that will look though. Or I could upgrade the way I want to 19s and new tires, and just sell the stock 18s with newish tires, but I doubt I would get that much for them.