When adding an inline fuse, the fuse used has to be big enough to supply both the original equipment on that circuit along wih the device you are adding. For example, the slot originally had a 15amp fuse and the device you are adding has a 10 amp draw. That means you place in a 25amp fuse to be able to supply enough amperage for the circuit. If not, the fuse will pop (could have happened if you did that).
A fuse is an overload protection to prevent things like electric fires. The more amp draw, hotter the wire gets and this is why they have specified wire gauges for specified amp draw ratings. Smaller gauge wire, quicker it gets hot. If too much amperage is applied through a wire that can't handle it, it will catch on fire. To avoid this, fuses are used. It pops when the amp draw exceeds it's rating to avoid overheating which can and will lead to fires (how electrical fires can start).
You can't just slap an inline fuse to any circuit. You first need to know what that circuit is for and powers. Reason being, you first want to be sure it is always energised with the ignition on (for your app). Second reason is you don't want to add an inline fuse onto a crucial circuit. Meaning, don't add it to something like a circuit associated with the ecm for example. And to state the obvious, make sure the device is properly grounded. Some plastics can pass as metals to the naked eye (yes, I've done this before. but in my defense, I also wear glasses). And the metal has to be bare. If it is painted, that paint acts like a barrier and prevents metal to metal contact. And lastly, the metal you are grounding it to has to be attached to the rest of the chasis by metal touching metal. So if it is like a peice of metal that is mounted/bolted to plastic and does not have continuity to the chasis for grounding, then it simply is not grounded.
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Originally Posted by allstock
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