Have I got everything?

[Okedokey]

Hey guys

Planning on doing the following:

Cam chain and tensioner replacement and cam follower.
Carbon clean

I have purchased what is in the picture below, and I am planning on replacing the cam chain, tensioner etc and the cam follower while I am at it. I also want to take of the intake manifold off and clean the valves with a brush and seafoam and then reinstall.

Have I got everything I need?

Thanks fellas

[Ringsby4]

Hey guys

Planning on doing the following:

Cam chain and tensioner replacement and cam follower.
Carbon clean

I have purchased what is in the picture below, and I am planning on replacing the cam chain, tensioner etc and the cam follower while I am at it. I also want to take of the intake manifold off and clean the valves with a brush and seafoam and then reinstall.

Have I got everything I need?

Thanks fellas

Hey mate,thats a big weekend you've got planned.Make sure you have a 5mm spline bit for the manifold as I recall....You didn't get taken by the soda blaster option ?, prob the way Ill go. Keep us posted. Good luck !

[shahk62]

Hey guys

Planning on doing the following:

Cam chain and tensioner replacement and cam follower.
Carbon clean

I have purchased what is in the picture below, and I am planning on replacing the cam chain, tensioner etc and the cam follower while I am at it. I also want to take of the intake manifold off and clean the valves with a brush and seafoam and then reinstall.

Have I got everything I need?

Thanks fellas

Might be helpful if you had the cam locking tool? I can't remember for sure but I know there's some tool that may make it easier.


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[Charles.waite]

Cam locking tool is helpful but not necessary. Mark the chain and sprockets with a paint pen or sharpie, transfer the marks to the new chain, and line them up. When in doubt take lots of pictures so you can reference them later.

I believe you're going to need to remove the Variator on the back of the exhaust cam right? I've never don't the tensioner or chain on a 2.0t so I'm not much help with that.

[Denio24]

I believe the variator will have to be removed b/c that is what ELSA says. I mean unless you are removing the camshafts i guess it would be possible to remove the cam chain without removing the "hydraulik ring" variator. And in order to remove the variator you need something to hold the camshaft in place. I guess you could hold the sprocket from the front if you don't have the cam lock tool.

[Charles.waite]

Do you have to remove the cam cradle too? I would imagine it's impossible to remove the chain otherwise.

I know in my b6 I had to remove the intake cam completely and loosen the exhaust cam just to get he tensioner out. It's a more bulky piece but still. Again, I've never done this so I'm not sure what the process is like.

Are you following either of these DIYs?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...am-Replacement

http://forums.mwerks.com/showthread....r-*BPY-engines

After reading that second DIY, I would absolutely get the T40080 tool. If its a polydrive bolt it will likely strip with a torx. I know a good number of people have had that happen to them around here. NO reason to risk it, because if you strip that bolt you're going to need to remove the whole cam to try to drill it out...

[Denio24]

Removing the cam cradle is only really necessary if you need to take a camshaft out. Otherwise, I believe the chain can be taken off without removing the camshaft. Perhaps someone who has already done this procedure can chime in whether or not the camshaft has to be removed when replacing the chain.

[Charles.waite]

Removing the cam cradle is only really necessary if you need to take a camshaft out. Otherwise, I believe the chain can be taken off without removing the camshaft. Perhaps someone who has already done this procedure can chime in whether or not the camshaft has to be removed when replacing the chain.

You're right:



The sprocket is connected to the variator so you don't need to remove the cams at all. Awesome.

[Denio24]

So I guess it would be doable to do without the cam lock tool, but it would make the job quite a bit more difficult, and the risk of being off a tooth when it is time to put the new chain on.. Both the injector removal puller tool and the cam lock tool can be found on ebay for cheap. And ECS charges standard retail prices for OEM parts, unless it's on sale or something. I usually buy OEM parts from audiusaparts.com or genuineaudiparts. For example if you bought on audiusaparts.com you could save $40 piecing together the kit as opposed to buying on ecstuning.com. Not hating on ECS or anything, and they really simplify by having kits pieced together, but when it comes to oem i'd really just rather buy from the dealer who can give me wholesale prices.

Oh, and for the timing chain service kit, I highly recommend avoiding the ecs kit and going with piecing together your own kit with a tensioner that is made by INA, and a chain that is made by IWIS, rather then febi. I'm pretty sure the febi parts are made in china. Correct me if i'm wrong. As far as gaskets go I usually go with victor reinz.

[Okedokey]

Anyone got a link to the pages in the manual for this and a link to the locking tool?

Thank you fellas, much help!

[Charles.waite]

Anyone got a link to the pages in the manual for this and a link to the locking tool?

Thank you fellas, much help!

I know the paperback Bentley has no info on this. The dvd/online one might though.

[martin0079]

You're right:



The sprocket is connected to the variator so you don't need to remove the cams at all. Awesome.

This is only if you can get the variator bolt loose. There is a thread on here noting multiple people who stripped the bolt even with the correct tool.

[vce1232000]

Removing the cam cradle is only really necessary if you need to take a camshaft out. Otherwise, I believe the chain can be taken off without removing the camshaft. Perhaps someone who has already done this procedure can chime in whether or not the camshaft has to be removed when replacing the chain.

You can the chain without touching the cam girdle. But if the pozi drive bolt is seized in the intake cam your screwed. If it wont come loose and you think its about to snap or strip. best just to remove the cam girdle and remove both cams and the chain that way. While your there the tensioner also

[Denio24]

Anyone got a link to the pages in the manual for this and a link to the locking tool? The locking tool is T10252

Thank you fellas, much help!

I'll post up the factory procedure later tonight when I get back from school, conveniently in a PDF format.

[Okedokey]

Champion, thanks guys. I have the posi-drive tool, ill just hope it come free.

[aluthman]

You can the chain without touching the cam girdle. But if the pozi drive bolt is seized in the intake cam your screwed. If it wont come loose and you think its about to snap or strip. best just to remove the cam girdle and remove both cams and the chain that way. While your there the tensioner also

^I'm with Vic. Just bite the bullet and remove the exhaust cam and leave the cam adjuster bolt alone. I would say a solid 50% or more seem to strip it and then you have to remove the cam anyway. I tried to take one off on a junk head and the bolt stripped. Not like normal bolt where is just softly gives way, it was solid and then the teeth just sheared off and my hand slammed into my work bench. Lots of swearing followed. Choose your path wisely.

[Charles.waite]

I would hit the bolt with some cleaner of some sort of just an aerosol. Make sure any debris and oil or gunk is out of there. And make sure it's TOTALLY evenly seated and in there 100% before you crank on it. And if you get that palsticky feeling that the bolt is not turning and you're stripping it just stop haha.

[vce1232000]

Just a FYI. I had intake cam that was shot and needed to out. I soaked it with PB Blaster for 2 days. Stuck in a shop vise and tried to the bolt. I had a cheater bar on a snap on breaker bar. No good. Then I proceeded to heat the cam up with acetylene torch until the end of the cam was cherry red literally. No good. I again used the bit again and cheater bar extension on the breaker bar. The bolt snapped

[Charles.waite]

I wonder if ambient temp has anything to do with the bolt being brittle or not.

Also these stories are terrifying me. Stop!!

[vce1232000]

I wonder if ambient temp has anything to do with the bolt being brittle or not.

Also these stories are terrifying me. Stop!!

No clue

But Ive also heard some just with any issue's ZERO... Its like a pigeon took a on their forehead... Its gotta be the luckiest day for them if they did it that way... Like play the lottery that day.......lol

[Okedokey]

So the best DIY going around including the cam removal? Also, what is the part number for the cam locking tool? Thank you lads.

[vce1232000]

So the best DIY going around including the cam removal? Also, what is the part number for the cam locking tool? Thank you lads.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASSENMACHER-...791584&vxp=mtr

alot of people make them. Just make sure you buy a one. the cheaper one bend and the weld snap

[Okedokey]

Thanks, how does this one look to you?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-AUDI-ENGI...920326&vxp=mtr

[vce1232000]

Thanks, how does this one look to you?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-AUDI-ENGI...920326&vxp=mtr

The description sounds . But I dont have any personal experience using that one

[Okedokey]

So in addition to the above listed parts, I also have the following:

[Charles.waite]

That last one is for head bolts. It's also about 10" too long to fit behind the cam.

[vce1232000]

You want to get the shortest bit available to avoid twisting and maximize the torque going to the bolt imo

[aluthman]

And if you get that palsticky feeling that the bolt is not turning and you're stripping it just stop haha.

Yeah, except that doesn't happen. It just lets go and BAM you break your hand.

[Okedokey]

That last one is for head bolts. It's also about 10" too long to fit behind the cam.

So this?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Volkswage...cAAOSw9N1Vk0NM

or this

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Assenmach...EAAOxy0x1TUX89

[vce1232000]

From the description of both. Id trust the 1st link imo

[Okedokey]

Purchased. Thanks

[Okedokey]

I think i will carefully 'hammer' the bit into the head of the bold to get it firmly in and then try and work it free. If i need to take cams out, what furhter gear will i need?

[vce1232000]

You wont need to hammer the bit to seat the tool. Trust me. The tool will sit in flush without any issue's if never been tampered with. The problem will be to turn it.........lol

No further specialty tools are needed to remove cams. You will need special sealer for the cam girdle when your re. And its a PITA to remove the old sealer too

[Okedokey]

What sealer is that exactly please?

[Ringsby4]

Heh okedokey,boy you started a great thread . A mine of info for stuff I will be doing myself eventually,34c here today ,hope its cooler in Sydney ( for all that work) lol ! so I'm picking up on vce's entertaining help,keep it up man !

[Denio24]

Just a FYI. I had intake cam that was shot and needed to out. I soaked it with PB Blaster for 2 days. Stuck in a shop vise and tried to the bolt. I had a cheater bar on a snap on breaker bar. No good. Then I proceeded to heat the cam up with acetylene torch until the end of the cam was cherry red literally. No good. I again used the bit again and cheater bar extension on the breaker bar. The bolt snapped

Nice horror story. The way I get very stuck bolts out is heat with mapp torch, except instead of common notion of heating the surrounding metal, I heat the bolt itself, then hit it with a wet rag. Repeat like 5 times. Then spray some pb and try it.

Here are the repair procedures. LINK

[Okedokey]

Heh okedokey,boy you started a great thread . A mine of info for stuff I will be doing myself eventually,34c here today ,hope its cooler in Sydney ( for all that work) lol ! so I'm picking up on vce's entertaining help,keep it up man !

Pissing down with rain, not so warm, not cold, but pretty much Autumn. 24oC i think.

Nice horror story. The way I get very stuck bolts out is heat with mapp torch, except instead of common notion of heating the surrounding metal, I heat the bolt itself, then hit it with a wet rag. Repeat like 5 times. Then spray some pb and try it.

Here are the repair procedures. LINK

Thanks bro!

[Okedokey]

So based on the repair procedures,

3036 retainer tool and T40001 puller is required too?

[Charles.waite]

You don't need to remove the cam girdle though. So don't worry about the puller or the sealer. And that two pronged wrench is for the timing belt i believe so don't worry about that.

[Okedokey]

Great, thank you

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Worthwhile writing a DIY for this ?