Help! Clutch issues

[Seander]

Hi, I'm new to the b5s4 game and I'm having issues with my clutch. It doesnt seem to be holding pressure. Ive tried bleeding it. Didnt work. There is no apparent loss of fluid either. I smoked my clutch because of this so I will be removing the transmission. However Id like to get an idea of whats wrong before diving in. Any thoughts would be appreciated

[redline380]

Hi, I'm new to the b5s4 game

Answer is internal leak in the master cylinder

[getslideways]

Are you sure your clutch isnt just done-zo?

When you say "holding pressure" do you mean the pedal feel, or the fact that the clutch just slips under load?

If it holds without a heavy load, but slips with load (for example in a high gear, low rpm, and mash the gas) then the clutch has just outlived its life

[Seander]

Not positive but I tried bleeding it got pressure back on the clutch pedal and then lost after letting sit for like 20-30 min while putting everything back together. I tried driving it and it just slipped like crazy. I could leave it running in gear and it wouldnt stall out.

[Seander]

From the smell of burned clutch its like its getting enough pressure to get to the flywheel but not enough to fully engage it.

[julex]

ok, then it is your PP/clutch disc, basically worn out, and not your hydraulic system unless you really have two unrelated problems there.

[Monty23]

Not positive but I tried bleeding it got pressure back on the clutch pedal and then lost after letting sit for like 20-30 min while putting everything back together. I tried driving it and it just slipped like crazy. I could leave it running in gear and it wouldnt stall out.

You clutch pedal going limp would not cause the clutch to slip (unless your slave exploded and somehow soaked your clutch assembly in brake fluid which would be very unlikely), you just wouldn't be able to shift easily because your scychros would be working overtime to align the input/output shafts when changing gears (and stopping would be difficult). If you are loosing pressure in the pedal, then you have a leak between you clutch master and you clutch slave cylinder that you need to find.

[Seander]

Yea not sure about that since I havent taken it apart yet. Just trying to get possible ideas before I go in. So I can have all the parts I need before starting. Also I dont want to put a new clutch in and instantly smoke it because its not engaging correctly

[Seander]

I can shift fine with no issues getting into gears. I just have the burnt clutch smell and lots of slippage. This happened immediately after I went stage 2 fwiw

[redline380]

I can shift fine with no issues getting into gears. I just have the burnt clutch smell and lots of slippage. This happened immediately after I went stage 2 fwiw

Well now all the facts come out.

Get a new clutch. Yours cant hold the increased torque.

[JVD]

lol

[Seander]

I just thought it was strange that my clutch pedal length of travel shortened and feels a whole lot lighter

[Seander]

Now the big question pull the motor or just drop the trans. I do have a lift to work off of. People on the FB group are saying to just drop the trans. What are your guys' thoughts since this seems to be heavily debated across all the sources I've read

[getslideways]

Now the big question pull the motor or just drop the trans. I do have a lift to work off of. People on the FB group are saying to just drop the trans. What are your guys' thoughts since this seems to be heavily debated across all the sources I've read

Any long term owner of a B5 can pull the front end off in about 20 minutes, probably less with a lift. For me, its faster and easier to yank the whole thing out as it gives me greater ease of access to all components, and lets me check the status of other seals and whatnot. I have pulled just the trans, with the car on jack-stands, it was not exactly fun.