My 2.7t B7 A4 swap

[Ali SC3]

Hi guys, sort of new to the forum and Audi's in general (I am a die hard toyota 2jz guy... I know I know).
I have driven a couple cars with a 2.7t (allroad, b6 S4) and I decided it was time to get something AWD with a 2.7t and have some fun with it.

Some of you will probably remember Mec's B7 A4 with the built 2.0t, that he pulled out to do a 2.5 swap that was not completed.


After much debate I decided to scoop it up and start a 2.7t swap on it.
My brother has a b6 s4 avant with a 2.7t swap which gave me alot of the motivation for this project, and is very similar it turns out in terms of parts etc.. swapping into a b7 is much like a b6 which is nice.

At first it will be a stage 2 with stock turbo's just to make sure the motor and everything is healthy before I look into more power down the road (I gotta say the single turbo kit is quite interesting)

Threads are pretty worthless without pics, so I will start at the beginning with some pics.

day one I looked at the car, it had no engine in it.




To complete the swap, instead of getting every little thing separate I opted to find a whole A6 parts car, 2001 early motor and ecu but unfortunately from an automatic car, not a huge deal just a little more wiring.


really surprised after pulling everything I needed off that A6, I fit all of it and the engine into the back of my GX470, didn't even have to get the trailer =)


It took alot of research and I must thank the members here for posting up info related to the swap.
I got the engine and trans mated, along with the a6 heater core hoses and power steering line which are the main things you need to get hooked up before you drop the motor in as its a pain later.


Engine going in (took like 16 hours over 3 days, not working that fast but there were many complications including grinding through a torque converter cause those bolts stripped out in like 2 seconds)


being loaded onto the trailer as Mec and his buddy gave me a hand with dropping the motor in but I will be doing all the rest on my own (thanks again guys!! I owe you some wrench time)


going through university area back to my place to work on it.


I don't have any shots in the garage but I started knocking out little things one at a time, the list is rather long but I will get there.
so far the coolant hoses are hooked up and battery wire ran, still need to delete clutch fan, figure out why my 3.2l a/c bracket wouldn't bolt up, fuel filter and return line, alot of wiring, 3.2l core support, abs module, fan controller and all the little stuff...
should keep me busy for a while. questions, pointers, and positive comments are welcomed, hope to list any details I can here there were not covered in other threads to help others do the swap afterwards, and if/when I figure out the wiring I will post a diagram to follow.

Will post more updates and info once I get back to the wrenching =)

[Ali SC3]

oh and on a technical note for those doing this later, you need 2 longer bolts and nuts for the starter. Ace only had standard size that was long enough and the right size to go through the starter, I used two 3/8" bolts and they were 6" long, and I used 4-5 washers and a nut on each one so that it wouldn't run out of threads. sounds crazy but after 4 trips to ace hardware that was the only thing that would work, starter is now on secure. 5.5" long might have not needed washers, but they only make 5" long and 6" long so a couple washers does the trick on the 6" bolts.

Also the 3.2l a/c bracket does not bolt to the 2.7t. seems I need a 3.0 bracket but can't seem to find them online. if someone has the part number I need that would be awesome.

[Ali SC3]

got some shiny new bi-pipes for the 2.7, and a silicone inter cooler piping kit. should free up some more ponies. getting some aftermarket downpipes as well but haven't picked them up yet.

[Ali SC3]

Now everyone don't all get too excited and post at once... lol

Got some more stuff done...
Cleaned up the front of the motor and the engine bay
Removed the clutch fan part (nut is reverse thread, Thanks Audi.. )
installed the crank sensor (recommend doing this before dropping engine in)
Got the shifter adjusted to hit all the gears and put the covers on, need to locate the missing shift boot or buy a new one but looks pretty good.
Shifter seems to sit a little forward, but checked my brothers 2.7 swapped b6 s4 and his is in the same spot so I am assuming this is normal, will look into more adjustment later for now it works.

a/c wise I got the 2.0 A/c compressor mounted with 3.0 bracket and bent the 2.0 line until it fit on the compressor and bent it to run between the oil pan and the sway bar to I think the dryer (on passenger side).
Laid out all the other A/c parts and it seems that is the only one that needs major work, the other line from the condenser back to the compressor only needs minor bend right at the compressor.

Never seen this car turn on before so I got curious if I hooked up the battery what would happen, and well it turns out everything works except the engine and of course the a/c system.
Got to listen to the sound system and adjust the Recaro's and what not, also learnt the exact mileage of the car for the first time which is nice. looking forward to getting it finished and starting it up.

more pics

Cluster works yay!!


getting there, need to find that boot


engine bay after cleaning and has an a/c compressor... still need to clean down the top of the engine.
I noticed recently I am missing the power steering pump, so need to get one of those too, the parts list grows.

[aluthman]

Nice to see that car with an engine in it again! Looks like you're making good progress.

[estomax]

nice progress! can't wait to see this all together. The 2.7 is a fun motor, although i would say a bit lazy compared to the JZs stock for stock :)

[IronAudi]

nice progress! can't wait to see this all together. The 2.7 is a fun motor, although i would say a bit lazy compared to the JZs stock for stock :)

everyone wants a straight 6

[seal66]

Awesome to see Mecs car moving along under new ownership. Gotta ask your brother must be ALi with the Greyish B6 s4 that was swapped by Jordan. You guys are going have fast cars man

[Ali SC3]

Nice to see that car with an engine in it again! Looks like you're making good progress.

Thanks, it is nice to see an engine in the bay even if it isn't running yet. Taking care of the easy stuff and working my way there.
I checked out your thread super nice work on the manifold, I may have to buy that tig welder mec has and learn to make my own exhaust.
I just don't get why they all go from 3" to 2.5", did it not occur to anyone to make a reasonable full 3" downpipe... at least I am glad they sell the flanges to make one.

nice progress! can't wait to see this all together. The 2.7 is a fun motor, although i would say a bit lazy compared to the JZs stock for stock :)

Thanks, hoping it'll be there by winter but its definitely a take my time project and not a weekend type swap.
Yeah I like the 2.7t alot because the bi-turbo's spool up so fast, it feels nice on the street for city driving although I am not a fan of the psi dropping by redline, but with K03's it seems the way it has to be for now.

My 2JZ is a na-t single turbo so takes till 3200 to get spooling and spooled up around 3600, and it only makes more and more power as it hits redline, so its an entirely different experience... more fun on the highway than the street actually. I plan to give that a whole another round of upgrades when the audi is done, bigger turbo, undivided turbo manifold + quick spool valve and I am undecided if I should go E85 on it also.

The twin turbo 2jzgte's are great for the street, they spool fast and still hit hard on the second turbos... add a downpipe and intake and crank the boost to 18-20 and its just mean all around for any type of driving.
I have thought about switching to a twin setup motor, but I decided to just throw a quick spool vale on my setup it should do similar.

everyone wants a straight 6

Can't argue with that, they are amazing motors.
now if only I could shove one in the audi and make it AWD... probably would never get past the drawaing board but the concept is amazing.

my SC's motor

Awesome to see Mecs car moving along under new ownership. Gotta ask your brother must be ALi with the Greyish B6 s4 that was swapped by Jordan. You guys are going have fast cars man

Thanks, and yes that is him and his S4. It was very inspiring to drive his before taking on this project, he is still ironing out some small issues but overall its a nice car and moves quite well.


Haven't done much more to it since the last update but I am thinking next I will work on the fuel return line/ filter.

[seal66]

Thanks, it is nice to see an engine in the bay even if it isn't running yet. Taking care of the easy stuff and working my way there.
I checked out your thread super nice work on the manifold, I may have to buy that tig welder mec has and learn to make my own exhaust.
I just don't get why they all go from 3" to 2.5", did it not occur to anyone to make a reasonable full 3" downpipe... at least I am glad they sell the flanges to make one.



Thanks, hoping it'll be there by winter but its definitely a take my time project and not a weekend type swap.
Yeah I like the 2.7t alot because the bi-turbo's spool up so fast, it feels nice on the street for city driving although I am not a fan of the psi dropping by redline, but with K03's it seems the way it has to be for now.

My 2JZ is a na-t single turbo so takes till 3200 to get spooling and spooled up around 3600, and it only makes more and more power as it hits redline, so its an entirely different experience... more fun on the highway than the street actually. I plan to give that a whole another round of upgrades when the audi is done, bigger turbo, undivided turbo manifold + quick spool valve and I am undecided if I should go E85 on it also.

The twin turbo 2jzgte's are great for the street, they spool fast and still hit hard on the second turbos... add a downpipe and intake and crank the boost to 18-20 and its just mean all around for any type of driving.
I have thought about switching to a twin setup motor, but I decided to just throw a quick spool vale on my setup it should do similar.



Can't argue with that, they are amazing motors.
now if only I could shove one in the audi and make it AWD... probably would never get past the drawaing board but the concept is amazing.

my SC's motor




Thanks, and yes that is him and his S4. It was very inspiring to drive his before taking on this project, he is still ironing out some small issues but overall its a nice car and moves quite well.


Haven't done much more to it since the last update but I am thinking next I will work on the fuel return line/ filter.

That is awesome man. I never got a ride in it before ALi picked it up.

Oh and yea if you want to go full 3'' exhaust you are going to have to custom make one like I did.

[aluthman]

Thanks, it is nice to see an engine in the bay even if it isn't running yet. Taking care of the easy stuff and working my way there.
I checked out your thread super nice work on the manifold, I may have to buy that tig welder mec has and learn to make my own exhaust.
I just don't get why they all go from 3" to 2.5", did it not occur to anyone to make a reasonable full 3" downpipe... at least I am glad they sell the flanges to make one.

There are a few that are true 3". JHM and RAI (don't buy one from RAI) sell 3" downpipes. My current downpipe is 3" all the way down and was made from an RAI downpipe that didn't fit worth a damn. I cut it up and made a new one. You should totally buy Martin's welder if he's selling it. There's a lot you can do with it, they are great welders.

[jerseybrian]

RAI (don't buy one from RAI) sell 3" downpipes. RAI downpipe that didn't fit worth a damn. .

LOL. my fitment wasn't that great either

[austin white]

Congrats on taking steps toward the swap. I modified my SSAC 3" to 2.5" downpipes by extending the downward section by 2". fitment is pretty great and it seems easier then trying to make a custom pipe, especially if you are considering doing single turbo after. Those polished bipipes look super good btw.

I would recommend doing stage 3 right off the bat, because you'll put in the engine, get it working, diagnose problems, then try to solve them all. After that's all done and you love driving your car then you're going to nearly start over and pull the motor again and risk creating more problems. It doesn't seem to be worth waiting and creating more work for yourself when you know in the future that you'll go stage 3. The only way I would recommend doing stage 2 at first is if you aren't sure that you'll be going stage 3 later on and think you might be satisfied with just 300hp. In which case you could have avoided the whole swap and just gone stage 3 on a 2.0t

[Ali SC3]

Yeah I just noticed that SSAC has a full 3" exhaust for TIP models, and it looks like it might have a better angle for clearance. I think I am going to get that one and extend it as mentioned, I just want a full 3" for the future, one thing I don't want to keep redoing is the exhaust. dual 3" and be done with it is what I want.

Austin, thanks for the advice on the downpipe, I think I will use the 3" Tip version and modify those like you said by adding in where needed.
Yeah I think the Bi-pipes looks pretty sharp , I know some people don't like SSAC but if it works then I don't see a problem with it, its just a pipe after all.

I did want to go stage 3 right off the bat but I have a bunch of other stuff going on right now in my personal life that is preventing me from doing an all out build with new turbo's like I wanted..
I think I will be happy with the stock K03's with the boost turned up for quite a while as it should have some low end scooting power, for big power pulls I can always drive my SC around =)

I don't mind if I have to pull the motor again later, although I am pretty sure if I throw the car up on a lift and lower the subframe some, I could probably swap out the turbo's without a whole lot of fuss, but will cross that path when the time comes. I think at that point I would want to do something more custom than slapping on some k04's or tials, I would probably find a couple off the shelf billet BW's and have the flanges rewelded to fit everything. I looked more into the single turbo and don't think I actually want to do that anymore, seems like a lot of heat right there on the top back of the motor would be bad for the hood and the loss of spool.

made a little progress on the interior of the car its all buttoned up with the glove box back in.
I got the power steering pump mounted, and intercoolers and piping all mocked up. still need to trim a few more hoses and get it all clamped up but its coming together.
found out the passenger side IC has a hole in it.... so grabbing another one to replace it. this one will do for mockup.

for anyone doing the swap be sure to grab the intercooler brackets off the donor cor, they are riveted on but with a large pry bar they can be popped off.
there is space for them to be reused on the B7, just have to drill a couple holes to hold them on.

[austin white]

Gotcha, some things definitely have a priority over going stage 3 on a car. The only reason I didn't go with full 3" is because Sean from SRM said that it's really not necessary, even with k24 turbos that are claimed to be able to put down 600whp on e85. Between him saying that and keeping fitment in mind it was an easy choice.

Are those SRM bipipes that you polished?

[Ali SC3]

Yeah, believe me it was something I was interesting in doing but its just not possible till next year and I want to drive it this year.
I have driven a stage 2 one and I think it will be plenty of fun for while, I know I always get the itch for more power but when I have more time I would like to pull it again and really do it justice like you have in your build thread, cleaning it up and painting it... sounds like fun to me not so much work but yeah that whole fitting the motor in there its just such a tight squeeze.

So doing more a budget build for the first round but I want everything working properly, no sensors flashing is the first goal and then enjoy it for the winter.
As you know there are a couple things left for the community to tackle like the the ABS situation and I was reading about the gas cap in your thread.
I cut the whole ABS system out of the A6 and am hoping I can retrofit that into the B7.

In winter I get bored of driving the SUV, and want to have a turbo car that is fun from stop light to stop light so even a stock 2.7t would be a large improvement.
My SC is pretty much allergic to snow and anything more than a mist of rain.

Yeah my brother was telling me he was told the same thing that 2.5" is more than enough, and it probably is but I have a gut feeling there is more to it than that.
Even if it doesn't affect the max power as 2.5" can still flow enough volume, the larger the exhaust the less the backpressure will be and that can help spool under the curve.
I don't expect everyone to agree with me nor do I want to get into an argument, but its what I think cause if I had a choice my car would have no downpipes or exhaust, just turbo's facing the rear =)

Those are SSAC or the xspower pipes, got them off ebay. they seem to be of good quality and they come polished so I decided to give them a try.
I hear this is a major stock restriction so these pipes are a must, most of the stock piping seems 2" besides these, although on the drivers side lower intercooler pipe (The one that bolts to the oil pan), I noticed that it has a little dent or hump in it near the engine mount, not sure if mine got dented or they all come like that but my brothers has it also. I almost want to replace thise piece with a universal pipe that doesn't have the dimple as it seems like a restriction to me on that side.... maybe the k04 pipes fix that not sure. other than that everything else looks pretty well sized for the stock turbo's.

How did your pressure plate fix go, still working out? MEC helped me set the SAC as I had not done it before really crossing my fingers when its all done that the car will move

[austin white]

I only drove it for one joy ride after reinstalling the trans so I don't have a lot of data but so far so good. there are definitely plenty of kinks to work out along the way so i'm sure you'll have enough work on your hands until you go stage 3. As far as I can tell the general solution for most of the problems that come up is swapping over b6 or b5 parts in, such as the ABS module and cluster, so that everything can communicate properly.

I still haven't done my A/C lines, is it that easy? and don't you have to recharge the system right after pretty much?

[Ali SC3]

Well as long as its holding up that is good. Yeah definitely enough kinks to work out, I grabbed the whole c5 abs module (cut the hardlines and pulled the whole thing out) so will get to that after its running.
I don't think I want to go to the older cluster so I will try and find some kind of fix if possible but not even close to there yet, maybe you will have it figured out by then =)

A/C lines is easy in theory but bending the a/c lines is a bit tricky to say the least. I reused 2.0t lines and everything including dryer, condensor, and compressor.
only thing not 2.0t was the 3.0 mount for the compressor, which is definitely 100% necessary, the 2.7t bracket only lines up like 50% of the way.

The line from the compressor to the passenger side round thing (dryer maybe?) required a good amount of bending/finessing. try not to bend it in the same spot, do a little bit in different spots.
mainly to get the angle right from the bottom to the part where it bolts on the compressor, then it sort of hugs the sway bar, and then there is a bend on the passenger side that could be straightened out a bit but it works and connects to the dryer.
the 2nd line from the condensor to the compressor looks like it will fit with just a tiny bend where it mounts to the compressor, I haven't installed that line yet but its by far the easier of the 2.

all the rest is like factory. I am not sure about recharging yet you can only do that once its all on and complete, I think they pull a vacuum to get any moisture out, then they fill it with the refrigerant.
make sure there are no missing o-rings or you will get leaks, and if you want the factory fan control module to work from the B5, I think you have to install the B5 pressure sensor on the condensor next to the b7 one, as the old one is analog output and the B7 one is a digital output, on my brothers car we researched it tried finding new sensors, but this was the easiest way took it to an audi shop and they just welded on a bung onto the B7 condensor and presto problem solved. you want to get it out of the way before you pressurize the system.

or you can go with a more simpler fan setup, like one of those thermal switches you stick in the radiator, just depends on how stock you want to get.
if you want it to be like it came that way, that requires the b5 sensor for the ecu, and the b7 sensor for the car, so adding the second b5 sensor to the b7 condenser seems like a no brainer to me cause then you can run whatever you want in the future. I ripped the fan controller off the C5 so I plan to wire that in and get it to work at some point.

[Ali SC3]

2 steps forward and one step back... got the intercoolers and piping all mocked up and couplers trimmed properly.
Connected the ground strap coming off the passenger side of the motor to the ground strap hanging off the cars frame rail.
Started tackling the extra vac lines, got it to how I want it reusing the 2.0t hardlines off the brake booster and line to the abs module, removed the ones that were on the 2.7t originally and reused fitting going into intake.

Was pretty happy till I noticed I broke the main spider hose somewhere in all that fiddling with lines.... so now I need to do the spider hose fix also.
I guess it was good because it won't break again and now its probably the easiest time I will have reaching back there.

For the life of me I cannot find where the a/c wiring plug is on the harness side. I see the connector on the side of the compressor, but nothing on the 2.7t harness.
Does anyone know where this wire comes from or do I have to wire it separately. Kind of hoping it will show up at some point lol.

[austin white]

My A/C plug was on the adaptive harness that I bought, the 2.7 compressor is a one pin connector I think it's grey with some green. So my guess is you'll have to splice in a new plug. You should do a catch can to replace the spider hose.

[Ali SC3]

I see, yeah I have a feeling its not on the 2.7t engine harness for some reason or mine is missing.. I think you are right I will just get the plug and wire it in myself its only 2 wires.
I am going to look into the catch can, when I looked at the "spider hose" it had like 5 different hoses so I need to find out which ones go together and which one go where, probably a thread on it will do a search and see how it goes on that front.

[austin white]

My catch can has the two ports on the valve covers and the port from the crank case going to it. I think the other two hoses that are on the spider hose are just vacuum so you can just cap them.

[Ali SC3]

Yeah I read that on a couple threads and I am wondering if I am going crazy here but I don't see how you can cap the one to the air intake Y pipe at the very least cause its the main vent.



The top right hose going to the Y is the vent pipe to relieve the crank case and valve cover pressure built by blow by under boost, so if you block that off then you just have 3 pressure sources going into each other with no vent anymore.. and also likely why they put the vent pipe at the top of the 5 port spider hose contraption thing (on a side note pressure in the block leads to smoking turbos cause the oil cannot drain properly).

You can delete the PCV hose top left cause under boost it has a check valve ("non-return valve") that closes so its only doing anything in vacuum and no one cares about that I assume.

The other 3 would have to stay so ideally you would want like a 4 port catch can.
for a 2 port can you could tee the valve cover lines and maybe even the crank case line on one large port, and run the other to the intake Y pipe.
it would at least be better than having no vent line cause honestly you could just tee the 3 together and the oil would end up in the crank case, draining it from a catch can with no vent doesn't seem to add anything good.
If you Put a drain port for the crank case on the bottom and you can put the can at the stock location and it would drain into the crank case it looks like.

I'm thinking the best of both worlds might be to replace the spider system with rubber hose, and put the catch can inline on the top right line (the vent) that goes to the intake Y pipe ,then it would catch the oil under boost, and let the PCV do its thing under vacuum. you would have to drain it manually though which isn't a big deal.

My toyota is alot simpler it just has a pcv on one valvecover and a vent on the other, and often we make the vents larger or remove the pcv and use 2 vents or lines to a can that either vents to air or goes back to the intake. venting to air like with a filter on the top of a can would keep all the oil out and free up a line. never heard of blocking off vents before I would have to assume one would be filling that catch can up pretty often, unless I am getting this all wrong somehow.

[Urtorsen]

So good to see somebody doing this swap nearby, would love to check it out sometime, I plan on doing it if I can find a cheap donor car

[Ali SC3]

are you in the Colorado area or up in Chicago... I guess Chicago is close by lol. Its a great setup but its quite a bit of work all in all.
definately not a weekend type swap yet but its not too bad either for what you end up with, a b7 with a 2.7t I still can't wait to drive mine when its done... I have literally never driven a b7 before haha.

[Ali SC3]

Well I repaired the spider hose system for now, the cracked hose was just the bottom one going to the crank case, replaced it with some 5/8 reinforced rubber hose (I think it was a power steering hose).
I left the other ones stock for now as they seem to be in alright shape, and if they do crack/break the other 4 are on the top part so I can reach them pretty easily.
Kinda glad the bottom one broke and replaced it because it would have been harder to do that one later.

Later I will add a catch can on the vent line going from spider system to the Y pipe intake thing, that will keep the oil out and the factory system doing its thing.
I already have one car that is massively far from being stock, I would like this one to be a little more stock on those systems... maybe not the turbos though next year lets see =)

Need to start working on the fuel system return, and order those SAI block off plates and a crush washer for the power steering line, apparently I am missing one.
slowly making progress.

Oh and to cut the silicone intercooler couplings (the ebay ones need to be trimmed), use a very sharp loose blade and it will slice through it like butter.
I would suggest getting a pack of blades cause if its not super sharp it will leave jagged edges, for a clean cut use a new blade every few couplers.

Tried to wrap my head around some of the wiring diagrams, I am unhappy to report the audi diagrams make like 5% sense to me at this point.
Maybe another few evenings of staring at them might do the trick, once I figure it out though it should be pretty easy (fingers crossed).

I have a 2002 C5 A6 harness/engine (APB) going into a B7 A4 2.0t chassis, so I will be doing a chart for that if others are doing the same.
If anyone has the C5 A6 diagrams please contact me, I am having trouble finding those.. and I dont want to buy a S4 harness cause it would be a pain to install now.
Also wondering if there is a difference between an s4 and a6 body plugs... if they are similar I have the S4 diagrams, but I figured different chassis would be different.
any info on the subject is appreciated, thanks.

pic with the couplers mocked up and spider system fixed (but you can't see it)

[austin white]

Engine Wiring
Cluster
Cruise Control Wiring
Coolant Fan Wiring

I came across these on a 2.7 swap group on Facebook which was pretty awesome. This is all for the 2.7t I don't know if it will give you everything you need to know but it will definitely help. Also I just realized that you're in Chicago which is only like a two hour drive from myself in a normal car but only like an hour drive if you have a 600hp monster.

[Ali SC3]

awesome, thanks for those. I just joined that group on facebook. I guess these are from an S4 also. I am just going to hope the body connectors are the same on the a6 or close hopefully until I can find some of those diagrams. this one looks like it makes alot more sense than the typical audi ones, so hopefully I can get further along with these.

I am in Denver lol, I don't think I am very close to either of you guys but still we can figure alot of this stuff out over the net which is nice.
starting to pick up the pace with the swap. need to order some stuff but getting closer every week.

[Ali SC3]

Well I managed to pull some more diagrams for the 2001-2002 a6 2.7t APB and the 2006 a4 2.0t off all data.

finally making some sense of these things... WHY WOULD THEY CALL THE BODY PLUGS... "CONNECTOR STATION ELECTRONIC BOX PLENUM CHAMBER"

It took me a day to figure out these are the body plugs... I thought plenum chamber meant in the intake so that can't be it, but doing a google search it shows the ecu cover... so it is it!!!

should be able to make a spreadsheet now... wish me luck.

[Ali SC3]

got some little stuff done, starting to decipher the wiring diagrams. figured out which plugs are what, but now to figure out what each one does and how to map them over. haven't spent too much time on it hopefully it will just fall into place once I get a couple more missing pieces.

Going to be ordering up all the final parts and getting that done this week, and then it will be a rush to install. My goal is to have this beast doing AWD burnouts by August.

[Urtorsen]

I'm in Denver, actually aurora , moved from Chicago last year for the fishing, the weather, the mountains and the roads!!!!
Can't wait to see this thing

[Ali SC3]

Sup Urtorsen, that's awesome yeah I am on the Denver/Aurora part of town right now also. Moved here for similar reasons its such an awesome place with tons of stuff to do.
If you are planning on doing a similar swap in the future and want to get a look at it, I can always use another set of hands on the build days, I can trade pizza and/or beer =)

I'm starting to get the parts I ordered in, so far have the accessory belt tensioner, other parts are still in route like random washers (ps lines), SAI block off plates, new coolant hoses, new a/c O-rings, 2.7 fuel filter, bunch of little stuff I needed, etc...

I also ordered full the 3" SSAC tiptronic v3 downpipes, my thought is these have more of an angle to get around the tip transmission, so maybe they will clear the b7 manual trans mount better.
Will see once I get them in, if they are closer to where they just need a little adjustment or just fit as is this would be huge for everyone in the future doing this.

Also ordered a 2.0t full engine harness so I can borrow the body plugs... I probably didn't need the whole thing but I got a good deal on it and it will be good to see what the wire colors all are before I start moving pins around. still need to sit down and map the wiring out 100% but I don't think it will be too crazy once I start doing it. at first glance though it seems like the 2.7t has like 5 body plugs and the 2.0t like 3, but hopefully it should all work out.

[flashc90]

I am doing a b7 2.7t swap also. I came across these today on a forum not sure if the 2.0 is setup the same way.




3.2
This is the 14 Pin Female on the 3.2 engine. Pin numbers are divided odd on top and even on the bottom. The pin assignments are as follows:

1. yellow - starter Kl.50
2. red - source from alternator Kl.30 ( or B+ )
3. green/black - Oil temperature Instrument
4. green/red - Oil pressure Instrument
5. red/green - from ignition.( Kl.15 ) to backup light switch
6. gray/brown - backup light switch to lights
7. free
8. brown/black - temp switch for fresh air blower
9. green/white - Oil pressure idiot light
10. free
11. blue - alternator control light Kl.61 ( or D+ )
12. free
13. black/yellow - power source for fresh air blower
14. red - source from alternator Kl.30 or B+



2.7T
14 2,7 ( 73 )

1 yellow / starter Kl.50
2 green / only used with sportomatic runs behind
the instrument for the overheat idiot light
3 green - black / Oiltemperature Instrument
4 green - red / Oiltpressure Instrument
5 green - yellow ( depends on year ) / from ign. to backuplightswitch
6 gray - black ( depends on year ) / backuplightswitch to lights
7 black/red / Coldstartenrichment temp switch
8 white/red / MFI stop selenoid
9 black - purple / to tach
10
11 blue / alternator control light Kl.61 ( or D+ )
12 brown / to Regulator D-
13 black / to Regulator DF
14 red / source from alternator 30 or B+


brown - white / Sportomatic power source
blue - yellow / Sportomatic shift lever contact
yellow - black / Fresh air blower
red - white / to MFI/CIS and fuelpumprelay

[Ali SC3]

thanks!! yeah I will have to start wrapping my head around all this wiring soon. Not understanding what I am seeing there yet but once I get the plugs on the desk maybe it will fall into place.
I think the B6 and B7 are different, but I am hoping the B7 3.2 and 2.0 are the same since they are the same chassis.

[RoguesGambit]

Just wanna say, you're my new hero for doing this, good luck and keep us posted!

[Ali SC3]

thanks, appreciate it! Just hoping I can get all this done in the near future.

I got a good amount of parts in from ECS tuning and a couple other places. also got a b7 2.0t harness for the body plugs and the a/c plug since I am using the 2.0t compressor.

Got the crush washers in for the Power Steering line to the pump and got the pulley back on, so now the PS system is complete including the cooler mounted behind the driver's inter-cooler.
Got the new coolant hoses on, so just need to find a 3.2 radiator and front clip and that should be taken care of... trying to find one in a yard so I don't have to get it all separate.

Also got new O-rings for the A/C system, well at least I think I got all of them, need to install those along with the SAI block off kit.

The full 3" tiptronic downpipes didn't clear the trans mount, same problem basically. the other issue is the drivers side one goes out so far it rubs on the side of the trans brace to the subframe, so extending it would be a pain. So I am returning these and buying the regular manual ones, and will just be extending those 2". turns out they do make full 3" ones in manual form also so I will just be getting those.

Also got the fuel filter so I will be able to run the return line and have everything working on that front. Alot of stuff left to do.

[Ali SC3]

So I ordered an aftermarket 3.2l core support, couldn't find the whole thing around here off a salvage car.

I am going to likely order a 3.2l radiator because it looks a little larger than the 2.7 and will fit perfect on the 3.2l core support.
I am also going to try and reuse the 2.0t fans and condenser, hoping they are the same or at the least close to the same so I can mount them... if not I'll be ordering those up also.
need a 3.2 snub mount bracket for the support, and the actual snub mount on the motor I haven't looked into yet, guessing I need a 3.0 one there.

Just trying to think ahead for the front end of the car, don't want to have to wait on those parts later on. will get some wrench time in this week, will update with pics etc..

[Ali SC3]

SAI block off plates installed... not as bad as I thought it would be.

I noticed the 2.7t fuel filter has spots for banjo bolt connections and it seems the b7 has those plastic fittings instead of the banjo connections, so I think I got the wrong filter.

I was looking at the fuel filter for a b6 a4 V6 and it looks like it has 2 lines like the 2.7t, but instead of banjos it has the fitting for the plastic thing to latch on to.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...ter/ES2210325/
The only problem I can think of is that the 2.0t lines looks like the inlet may be larger than the outlet, and on the replacement they appear to be the same size from pics online.
I figure I will just order one anyways and give it a shot before replacing the lines and using hose barbs on the 2.7t filter.

[seal66]

Glad to see progress moving forward on Mecs old car. Can't wait to see her back on the road man

[silva]

SAI block off plates installed... not as bad as I thought it would be.

I noticed the 2.7t fuel filter has spots for banjo bolt connections and it seems the b7 has those plastic fittings instead of the banjo connections, so I think I got the wrong filter.

I was looking at the fuel filter for a b6 a4 V6 and it looks like it has 2 lines like the 2.7t, but instead of banjos it has the fitting for the plastic thing to latch on to.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...ter/ES2210325/
The only problem I can think of is that the 2.0t lines looks like the inlet may be larger than the outlet, and on the replacement they appear to be the same size from pics online.
I figure I will just order one anyways and give it a shot before replacing the lines and using hose barbs on the 2.7t filter.

FYI on the fuel filter on your B7. I just finished installing a 2.7T into a B7 RS4 and the larger of the two lines on the filter is the RETURN. The small one on the back side, in the center of the filter is the supply.

On the RS4, and presumably on all B7s, there's an unused nipple on the fuel sending unit. I cut the bottom of this nipple off and ran my 2.7T fuel return line into it, leaving the 2.0T filter alone.

I originally purchased a 3.0 filter, with the four fittings on it, but it's not the same as it has a smaller return line than the newer cars.