Steering rack clunk

[ricekikr]

Anyway to diagnose steering rack clunk if internal?

Can adjusting the rack help?

I just installed a used rack (together with new arms inner/outer tie rod). Koyo (originally ZF)

Clunks when when going over small bumps on the driver side. Almost none on passenger unless pothole is large enough.

When wiggling steering (engine off):

There's a clunking noise right below the brake master. Sound from both wheel wells are significanlty quiter compared to the sound coming from the brake master.

Inside the car lower dash removed clunking is much quiter comapared to wheel wells and below brake master.

1. The upper and lower driver steering rack bolts are tight, haven't checked the one under the battery

2. Externally rack doesn't move when steering wheel is wiggled.

3. Haven't checked inner tie rod.

4. Clunking used to be much much quiter after driving for about 1 hr. Now it's almost the same (rack has only been on about 5 days of driving)

5. Clunks used to be louder with small bumps. Now it all seems the same (5 days of driving)

[GrapeBandit]

I would check out those inner tie rods first. I bet that is your culprit

[ricekikr]

I would check out those inner tie rods first. I bet that is your culprit

Inner and outer are both new. No more than 50 miles on them.

Outer is new Vaico. Retightened twice (install and after alignment)

Inner is also new, but ebay special. Weird thing is, ordered 2pcs from the same vendor and got two different versions, both for an a4 but different manufacturers.

Also did a minor but usually effective test for the inner tie rod. Jack car and check for play by moving the wheel. Didn't see/feel any.

[GrapeBandit]

damn. how about a loose bolt or whatever on the part of the steering column that extends through the dash?

[SN95Audi87]

damn. how about a loose bolt or whatever on the part of the steering column that extends through the dash?

This. I just got my drivers side lower "straight-arm" and "curved-arm" installed this weekend because I had bad ball joints. The shop didn't torque one of the bolts down properly and it caused my car to clunk at low speeds when I was on the brakes or making a tight turn. Check all your control arms bolts to see if they back out slightly causing a gap for the metal arms to move around. My 2 cents.

[ricekikr]

Driver side was checked. Might do pass side tomorrow.


Steering that extends to lower dash connects to column only one way right? Or could it go in wrong?

[GrapeBandit]

Driver side was checked. Might do pass side tomorrow.


Steering that extends to lower dash connects to column only one way right? Or could it go in wrong?

im not sure, I only had one out once. maybe google to see if you can find a diagram for it

[ricekikr]

Will check.

Anyone know how to adjust? Do i need to remove the rubber cover in the middle of the nut?

Tried turning the 18mm nut, it wouldn't move any.

[walky_talky20]

I had clunking coming from my rack, too. Over bumps (like pulling into a Burger King with a 1.5" concrete lip at an angle - I always "angle it" when pulling into the BK). I replaced all tie rods, inner and outer. Still there. So I went after the rack pre-load adjustment. Also, I should probably lay off the BK.

That 18mm pre-load adjuster is mega-hard to turn, and space is tight. I recommend a 6-point chrome socket with a breaker bar. Go in with both hands and give it all you got. I tried a little turn at first. Better but not all of it. I ended up turning it 1/6th of a turn, maybe a little more. Less than 1/4 turn, I believe. Anyway, it was certainly too much because my return-to-center is now pretty lousy. However, any less and I still had clunks - which were more annoying to me. So basically my rack is worn out, and I have covered it up with too much pre-load. I'm just impressed that my rack isn't leaking with 275k miles.

If I replace the rack, I want an upgrade, I was hoping a B6/B7 S4 or RS4 rack might be compatible. So I could get a much newer piece and perhaps a tighter ratio, too. I haven't looked into this in earnest, yet.

[ricekikr]

That 18mm pre-load adjuster is mega-hard to turn, and space is tight. I recommend a 6-point chrome socket with a breaker bar.

Lol no wonder why. I was doing it from the top. A regular box wrench couldn't fit before hitting the transmission/hoses etc. Used a 6 inch adjustable wrench was able to turn it 1/4-1/2, then wrench just started slipping, didn't have an 18mm 3/8 handy, ratchet was the perfect length too.

Tested it like what it says on Haynes, wiggling steering wheel, noise was a little bit reduced. Gona test drive it tomorrow and tighten more if needed.

[walky_talky20]

Half a turn? That's quite a bit, methinks. If the steering is sticky (doesn't return to center or won't return all the way on it's own), then you may want to back that off some. Your call.

[ricekikr]

Half a turn? That's quite a bit, methinks. If the steering is sticky (doesn't return to center or won't return all the way on it's own), then you may want to back that off some. Your call.

Yup was too much. Have to manually return it to center. And clunk was still there.

After driving it an hour, clunking was gone.

Parked it for 3 hours then drove it, clunking was back. After an hour or so, it was gone again.

Its pretty consistent, probably drove a little less last time thats why clunking was still present


Cold car, jumping on door sill - driver clunks, pass doesn't.

[walky_talky20]

Video of door-sill jumping session may be required.

[ricekikr]

Video of door-sill jumping session may be required.

Not gona happen lol.

Disconnected driver side sway bar link - test drove still clunking also clunked when jumping on sill.

Disconnected drive side tie rod to spindle - drove it forward and back to remove any tension - jumped on sill again - clunking gone. There was some squishing sound that seemed normal.

Tie rod was tight, both inner and outer. Gona try reinstalling old oem inner tie rod.

Tried pulling/pushing tie rod by hand, couldn't replicate clunking. Inner does feel a bit tight, but don't have a new oem inner to compare with. Inner needs a good amount of force to move using the outer as leverage.

[ricekikr]

Would a worn rack clunk but not leak oil? This with adjustment wound tight enough that it would some effort to return it to center.

Haven't tried the old inner tie rod yet.

Replaced driver side shock mount. Everything rubber on driver side is new, except for sway bar bushing.

Vaico arms and outer tie rod, Ebay inner rod, Lemforder shock mount.

[walky_talky20]

As far as the steering rack: clunking is result of play in the actual rack/pinion. Leaking would be a result of failed seals. These are 2 separate conditions.

[ricekikr]

Fixed.

Turned out to be the inner tie rod. Sprayed it with white lithium. No more clunking.

It was packed with some white grease when it was sent to me. When i checked it now the grease felt like gooey rubber.