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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 26 2015
    AZ Member #
    339463
    Location
    Tampa, FL

    Getting around to some much-needed maintenance. A few Qs about parts

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    So my car has been fairly reliable, but I need to do some maintenance to it. When I bought the car it had a fairly complete service history. This is the important part from the dealer service at 99055 miles. It now has around 112,xxx miles.

    Water Pump changed
    Timing Belt changed
    Coolant changed

    Recommended services:
    Left and right engine mounts
    Snub Mount
    Cost: $1,162.20

    PCV system: $432

    Prop shaft seal for transmission: $612.50

    Coolant flange: $441.58

    Cam Adjuster Seal: $665.99

    Valve Cover Gasket


    The engine mounts and PCV system I'll be getting from 034.

    Valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seal: Should I get the OEM gaskets?
    Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket: $13.17
    Valve Cover Gasket Set: $49.75
    I also would need to get the tool. ECS has a kit with the tool for $59.95. If OEM is the best, then I'll get the gaskets from ECS and find a tool on Amazon.

    I also planned on getting the coolant flange from ECS for $65.78. Again, is OEM the best option here? The other options are significantly cheaper.

    I'm not sure which driveshaft flange seal I need. 018409399B or 01V409399A. Some Googling didn't turn up anything decisive. Would it be advisable to go ahead and replace the diff seal at the same time?

    First, though, I need to get the ABS module rebuilt. Ebay rebuilder is around $90, and cheap-abs is around $150. Is cheap ABS really worth the premium?

    Since I've gotten the car, I've changed the oil and replaced all four front upper control arms, and both front lower rearward control arms. This really made a big improvement, along with new tires. I still get a bit of a vibration around 70 - 80 mph if I'm not accelerating. Wheel lugs were all torqued to 85 ft - lbs, and tire pressures have been set correctly. Some searching indicates that this may be a driveshaft bearing. How can I check for that?

    I know that's a lot of questions, and if I just need to search more, I have no problem doing that. Thanks for any help anyone can give.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings tHatOne guY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 20 2012
    AZ Member #
    99020
    My Garage
    06' Yamaha R1...Raven
    Location
    Mesa, Az

    May I recommend Autohausaz.com

    The parts there are legit OEM or OES. To top it off they have the best prices most of the time, in my experience. They will have most of what you are looking for.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 26 2005
    AZ Member #
    7741
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    If your A4 is equipped with the ZF 5HP19FLA tip trans, then all the main part numbers begin with 01V, since this trans is known within Audi as a 01V trans.

    If it is the 01V, then you need to change the ATF and filter as well. Use Pentosin ATF-1 fluid. After the fluid and filter change, after 100 miles or so, just drain the fluid again without removing the trans pan, and refill with more new fluid. This is needed so that most of the old contaminated fluid is removed from the trans. The first drain refill leaves the torque converter and fluid cooler lines full of old fluid.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 26 2015
    AZ Member #
    339463
    Location
    Tampa, FL

    Quote Originally Posted by diagnosticator View Post
    If your A4 is equipped with the ZF 5HP19FLA tip trans, then all the main part numbers begin with 01V, since this trans is known within Audi as a 01V trans.

    If it is the 01V, then you need to change the ATF and filter as well. Use Pentosin ATF-1 fluid. After the fluid and filter change, after 100 miles or so, just drain the fluid again without removing the trans pan, and refill with more new fluid. This is needed so that most of the old contaminated fluid is removed from the trans. The first drain refill leaves the torque converter and fluid cooler lines full of old fluid.
    Mine is the 5-speed tip. I haven't been under it yet to check the transmission model, but from what I've read since I've posted, that points to which seal I need, assuming that the flange hasn't been updated (which I don't think it has)

    Why is the tranny fluid change necessary? Are you saying that I need to add that to the list of maintenance, or is it because of something else I plan on doing? From what I've read, changing the seal only requires changing the diff oil with some synth 75w90.

    I do want to change the tranny fluid (I've read up on doing that), but geeze is it expensive.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 26 2005
    AZ Member #
    7741
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Quote Originally Posted by rocket1420 View Post
    Mine is the 5-speed tip. I haven't been under it yet to check the transmission model, but from what I've read since I've posted, that points to which seal I need, assuming that the flange hasn't been updated (which I don't think it has)

    Why is the tranny fluid change necessary? Are you saying that I need to add that to the list of maintenance, or is it because of something else I plan on doing? From what I've read, changing the seal only requires changing the diff oil with some synth 75w90.

    I do want to change the tranny fluid (I've read up on doing that), but geeze is it expensive.
    The trans ATF gets contaminated, and the original new fluid chemical properties degrade over time. If the ATF is not changed, the trans will wear a lot faster, and the chances for failure is a lot more likely.

    Although the Pentosin ATF-1 fluid seems relatively expensive compared to the cost per liter of other ATFs, it is less expensive than the OE Audi fluid, and compared to most other routine maintenance costs is really not expensive especially since transmission failure repair costs are often more expensive than the car is worth.

    Audi says the original ATF fill is a lifetime fill, implying the ATF never gets contaminated and the additive package never degrades, and the fluid does not oxidize over time and mileage. None of these implications are supported by the technical facts involved. The only justification for the lifetime fill claim is from a cost of maintenance aspect only relevant to a new car owner and Audi. 2nd owners of higher mileage Audis with tip transmissions get handed the consequences of not done ATF changes and maintenance of the trans and ATF that if pushed to far will kill the transmission. "Lifetime" really means "Until the transmission fails".
    Last edited by diagnosticator; 03-13-2016 at 03:33 PM.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 26 2015
    AZ Member #
    339463
    Location
    Tampa, FL

    Quote Originally Posted by diagnosticator View Post
    The trans ATF gets contaminated, and the original new fluid chemical properties degrade over time. If the ATF is not changed, the trans will wear a lot faster, and the chances for failure is a lot more likely.

    Although the Pentosin ATF-1 fluid seems relatively expensive compared to the cost per liter of other ATFs, it is less expensive than the OE Audi fluid, and compared to most other routine maintenance costs is really not expensive especially since transmission failure repair costs are often more expensive than the car is worth.

    Audi says the original ATF fill is a lifetime fill, implying the ATF never gets contaminated and the additive package never degrades, and the fluid does not oxidize over time and mileage. None of these implications are supported by the technical facts involved. The only justification for the lifetime fill claim is from a cost of maintenance aspect only relevant to a new car owner and Audi. 2nd owners of higher mileage Audis with tip transmissions get handed the consequences of not done ATF changes and maintenance of the trans and ATF that if pushed to far will kill the transmission. "Lifetime" really means "Until the transmission fails".
    I still need to diagnose a vibration. I think it may be the center support bearing for the driveshaft. I've already ruled out the front CV axles as a source of the problem. The vibration occurs above 60 MPH. Not nearly as bad as when I had the bad/bald tires on there, but it's still noticeable.

    So for parts, I got a few things from Amazon:
    Pentosin 8042206 Pento High Performance II 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil - 5 Liter
    Assenmacher Specialty Tools 3366 Chain Adjuster Bracket
    Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel
    Pentosin 1058206 ATF-1 Synthetic AutomotiveTransmission Fluid, 5 Liter

    Got the ST coilovers and spring compressor with the current ECS promo.
    I'll be getting these things from ECS.

    From 034 I plan on getting:
    Snub Mount
    2 Engine Mounts
    Breather hose kit
    and probably Driveshaft Support Center Bearing

    Am I missing any other parts for common 100k mile maintenance? Once I get the basic maintenance done and the coilovers installed, I plan on adding a Frankenturbo and bigger brakes.

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