Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4937's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 14 2008
    AZ Member #
    31955
    Location
    Ohio%20

    Trying to check cam follower and having an issue

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    I've watched videos, read instructions and all that. Supposed to be a quick job just to check it. My car has a hard pipe/hose line right in the worst possible place. I don't have the banjo bolt so shouldn't have to remove the bottom lines to pull it out enough to check the follower. I haven't seen this in any diagrams, videos or even read about it. I was planning on getting the 17mm today to try and remove the coolant line but just looking at it I don't expect I'll be able to get back there far enough to get a wrench around it then even if I did would be extremely difficult to reinstall that line afterward.

    If possible I'm thinking that hose needs to be removed and either moved somewhere else or changed to a rubber hose so I can use regular clamps and not those blasted one time clamps.

    Has anyone else had to deal with this?

    I'll add a pic in a little bit.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings Ray1031's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 01 2015
    AZ Member #
    363852
    Location
    San Antonio, TX

    Get a stubby or a crow feet wrench, ask me how I know


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4937's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 14 2008
    AZ Member #
    31955
    Location
    Ohio%20

    Thanks, I saw a stubby set at Advanced yesterday but they didn't have a 17mm. Suppose I'm heading to Lowes today.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Copen-cisco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 06 2013
    AZ Member #
    122646
    My Garage
    B7 Audi A4 Avant+ B7 Sedan and '69 912
    Location
    Dublin, CA

    Stubby for sure or cut a regular wrench
    Kristian

    l Audi A4 2007 Avant l 2.0T TIP l Custom Stage 2 tune l IE HPFP l 034 HFC l 034 TIP l Rev Snub mount l 034 motor mounts l ST Coilovers l RS4 rear sway bar l Milltek Cat-back Resonated l S4 Recaro l RNS-E MKII l 19" Peelers

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings OliNix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 22 2014
    AZ Member #
    290067
    Location
    London, UK

    What engine is it? I know to get the rocker covers off the BKN 3.0TDI there is a metal coolant hose which is right in the way, just takes a bit of "gentle persuasion with a small crow bar to get it out the way and the rocker covers off.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings supple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 27 2016
    AZ Member #
    367849
    My Garage
    I don't have a garage
    Location
    Woburn, MA

    Go to harbor freight, buy a cheap wrench and cut it shorter. Grinding away part of the knuckle will help too but I didn't.

    Make sure you have the relief bolt off the HPFP that is blocking it's third bolt. You can swing the stubby wrench in an arc around that to loosen and tighten the hard line. Once it's loosened enough, I found it easier to squeeze my fingers against it to loosen the last bit.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings supple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 27 2016
    AZ Member #
    367849
    My Garage
    I don't have a garage
    Location
    Woburn, MA

    Quote Originally Posted by OliNix View Post
    What engine is it? I know to get the rocker covers off the BKN 3.0TDI there is a metal coolant hose which is right in the way, just takes a bit of "gentle persuasion with a small crow bar to get it out the way and the rocker covers off.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I have the same setup as OP and mine is a 2007 BWT
    Last edited by supple; 03-12-2016 at 10:17 AM.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4937's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 14 2008
    AZ Member #
    31955
    Location
    Ohio%20

    Sorry about that, I have a 2007 2.0T FSI. I would imagine that's the same coolant line, runs to the radiator and forks in the back. Didn't even think about trying to gently move it out of the way. Might have to try that.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings OliNix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 22 2014
    AZ Member #
    290067
    Location
    London, UK

    Trying to check cam follower and having an issue

    It does go it is a pita but you will get there eventually

    The line I am talking about you can see in the top of this picture, it looks black, but it is silver and metal (by the connected end of the braided hose)


  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings supple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 27 2016
    AZ Member #
    367849
    My Garage
    I don't have a garage
    Location
    Woburn, MA

    Haven't seen a 3.0 TDI but I think OP is talking about the hard fuel line next to firewall going to hpfp, different setup and reach.

    You can definitely do the job without removing the hard-line completely. Just takes a couple times to get the angle right. I've done it twice already and these are my first times at it.
    2013 S4 Monsoon Grey | APR Stage 2 Single Pulley | Roc Euro Intake | 034 RSB + Drivetrain Inserts + Control Arms | CR-15 | KW V1
    RIP 2007 Brilliant Black A4 Quattro | Unitronic Stage 1+ | Bilstein Sport + H&R Sport | Apikol Snub | GFB DV+ | 034 Turbo Inlet, Street Density Motor Mounts, RSB & End Links, Control Arms | Pipercross Filter

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4937's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 14 2008
    AZ Member #
    31955
    Location
    Ohio%20

    This is what it looks like. That pipe that runs to the back in the middle is what is in the way.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings supple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 27 2016
    AZ Member #
    367849
    My Garage
    I don't have a garage
    Location
    Woburn, MA

    There's a DIY on here, did you remove the breather hose, the silver piece that the engine cover goes on, disconnect the sensors, and take off that relief nut on the HPFP?
    2013 S4 Monsoon Grey | APR Stage 2 Single Pulley | Roc Euro Intake | 034 RSB + Drivetrain Inserts + Control Arms | CR-15 | KW V1
    RIP 2007 Brilliant Black A4 Quattro | Unitronic Stage 1+ | Bilstein Sport + H&R Sport | Apikol Snub | GFB DV+ | 034 Turbo Inlet, Street Density Motor Mounts, RSB & End Links, Control Arms | Pipercross Filter

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4937's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 14 2008
    AZ Member #
    31955
    Location
    Ohio%20

    Yep I have done all that. My next thought was trying to take off the copper fitting from the electrical connection, but biggest wrench I had was 22 and it wasn't big enough.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings supple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 27 2016
    AZ Member #
    367849
    My Garage
    I don't have a garage
    Location
    Woburn, MA

    Quote Originally Posted by a4937 View Post
    Yep I have done all that. My next thought was trying to take off the copper fitting from the electrical connection, but biggest wrench I had was 22 and it wasn't big enough.
    The only thing I used was a 17mm wrench cut short LOL. Keep trying buddy, first time took me almost an hour.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Sanjman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2006
    AZ Member #
    13439
    My Garage
    nothing else special
    Location
    Skokie, IL

    You have to just wiggle it out..... carefully. The flexible hose below is,so freaking short it makes it near impossible but once you do it once you'll know how to do it again.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings vwnobby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 30 2009
    AZ Member #
    40525
    My Garage
    '07 A4 S Line / '97 Jetta GLX (sold) / '96 FZR600
    Location
    NJ

    Here is the DIY I originally followed (it has the banko bolt, but mine doesn't) http://freepdfhosting.com/8791e81dac.pdf

    I have always used a regular length 17mm to loosen the nut on the fuel line. Just move the coolant tank out of the way. There is very little wiggle room, but it can be removed with the 17mm wrench.
    2.0T MTQ | Revo Stage II+ | APR HPFP | 034 Engine Mounts | 034 HFC | 034 Turbo Inlet | ER SMICs | TT 2.5" DP | Magnaflow 16601 DP back | K&N Drop in filter | ECS Snub mount | RS4 Rear Sway bar kit | B5 lowering caps | "D" piston DV | TyrolSport Caliper Bushings | S4 Front Calipers/Carriers/Rotors | Goodrich SS lines | StopTech Street Performance Pads (Porterfield R4 for track) | AWE Vent Boost Gauge | NGK (4644) BKR7E (replaced NGK Iridium BKR7EIX-11)

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings allstock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 19 2014
    AZ Member #
    159879
    Location
    greater sub of Chicago

    The first time you do this - hopefully you got it done by now - it's gonna be like whaaat? There definitely is some technique to it. That 17mm brass coupling nut is gonna be a slow turning, but once you get it going all you need to do press the skinny hardline in different directions as you use your other hand and turn the nut loose using your fingers. Unbolt that little Schrader valve slowly(fuel will spill out a little) with a towel. Don't drop it! And you'll have access to the bolts. There's a lot of wiggling and pulling to get her out, you'll get it. If you can, use a torque wrench on the reassembly for those three bolts. I'm sure most here don't bother to cuz they have such awesome torque skills. Plenty here have stripped the inner threads.

    Oh and make sure you have a soft landing spot in case you pass out after seeing your follower is blown. Hopefully that won't be the case.
    Last edited by allstock; 03-13-2016 at 04:18 AM.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings swaggerwagon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 28 2012
    AZ Member #
    101316
    Location
    NC

    Soft line HPFP. Regular 17mm wrench works, just takes being at the right angle. No need to move coolant pipes, etc.
    B8.5 3.0T/ B5.5 1.8T

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4937's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 14 2008
    AZ Member #
    31955
    Location
    Ohio%20

    Well everyone I finally got it.. my problem was that I saw one video where they didn't bother with either of the lower lines so I thought I could do that too.. but after I had the torx bolts out was having a bitch of a time trying to get it out more than about an inch. So this morning after going to get a set of stubby wrenches I reinstalled the torx bolts which gave me a little more room to work with the supply line. After finally figuring out an angle to work with the stubby I got her off. Rod looks good, follower has a little wear but nothing to be concerned about. All this because of fault code 00017.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2024 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.