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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    Aux water pump - rear clamp issue

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    I'm in the middle of doing my aux water pump. I was trying to do it without removing the intake manifold. I got the front hose off, but am struggling w the rear clamp.

    The problem is the clamp turned, so the part I need to get my pliers on is on the side/bottom. Is there a way I can just break these spring clamps to get this off? Or am I now forced to take off the intake manifold and do this the long way?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    You can see the clamp in the picture, it's on the black hose. Any way I can break the clamp? Or should I just remove the manifold? I can't seem to get my 11" 45-degree pliers on it.
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
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    It's tight down there but you may be able to lever one side of the clamp (like you are compressing only one side) by prying on it with the engine or something hard to lever on. Spray some brake clean on it to make it slippery and you should be able to rotate that clamp. Obviously this all depends on the room available.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zba View Post
    It's tight down there but you may be able to lever one side of the clamp (like you are compressing only one side) by prying on it with the engine or something hard to lever on. Spray some brake clean on it to make it slippery and you should be able to rotate that clamp. Obviously this all depends on the room available.
    Should I be worried about breaking the hard coolant line if I leverage one side and try to wiggle it out?

    As you can see in the pic I can only get the pliers on 1 of the 2 "prongs" that loosen the clamp. I would imagine if I can bend the clamp on 1 of the prongs I can slide it off I just want to make sure I won't damage the hard line. I've spent several hours trying to get the clamp off. What do you think?

    With the above being said I started the steps to remove the manifold (since I have to get this done this weekend) and I was confused of one step in the write-up I'm following. http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng69.shtml

    There is, however, another larger black plastic or nylon vacuum connection at the back (firewall end) of the manifold fitted with a black nylon collar that releases when pressure is applied simultaneously to the opposed free sides of the collar.
    What vacuum connection are they referring to? I see a plastic hose (which I removed) and 2 hard lines with collars (below the hose I'm holding). Do those 2 hard lines below the hose I'm holding need to be disconnected?
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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
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    Your not trying to pry the clamp open permanently. Prying it open on one end relieves enough tension on the clamp so that it can be rotated. As soon as you release the pressure you're applying it will go back to its tensioned state.

    You should have no issue prying against the hard metal pipe, the tension on the clamp is not that great. Keep in mind you will most likely need to do this even if you pull the intake off.

    Yes, those two hard lines come off if you are yanking the intake.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zba View Post
    Your not trying to pry the clamp open permanently. Prying it open on one end relieves enough tension on the clamp so that it can be rotated. As soon as you release the pressure you're applying it will go back to its tensioned state.

    You should have no issue prying against the hard metal pipe, the tension on the clamp is not that great. Keep in mind you will most likely need to do this even if you pull the intake off.

    Yes, those two hard lines come off if you are yanking the intake.
    Thanks. I'll give it a try in the morning.

    If I do remove the intake manifold, I guess I need to remove those 2 hard lines like I did the breather on the Y-Pipe (squeezing the 2 sides and pulling)
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    Another question I have about the write-up is the following:

    Next I disconnected the electrical couplers on the injectors. After this, the wires to the injector couplers need to be followed closely and moved out of the manifold’s way (if I remember correctly, there are one or two zip-ties on the driver’s side that require undoing here same method as described above).
    Where are these electrical couplers on the injectors he's referring to? Does anyone have a picture?
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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
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    Whomever wrote that needs a kick to the nuts. It's the goddam connector on top of the injector; the one with a spring clip. No need to over think this.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zba View Post
    Whomever wrote that needs a kick to the nuts. It's the goddam connector on top of the injector; the one with a spring clip. No need to over think this.
    I appreciate all your help. I tried to use leverage to get the rear clamp off (without removing the manifold) but the clamp has turned completely upside down and I'm not making any progress turning it. I think I'm forced to remove the manifold because I have no way to turn that clamp around.

    Any picture of what spring clamp you're referring to on the injector? Are there 6 I need to remove?

    Also, the 2 hardlines on the back of the manifold, I still need to remove those.. do I just pinch on the sides to remove?

    thanks.
    APR
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    Hawk HPS + Adams slotted
    Kicker CompVT

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
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    No pics, it's an electrical connector for each injector. Yes, squeeze those hard lines and they come off, be gentle.

    When you think you're ready to pull the intake do it slowly so anything still connected shows itself before you break it.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zba View Post
    No pics, it's an electrical connector for each injector. Yes, squeeze those hard lines and they come off, be gentle.

    When you think you're ready to pull the intake do it slowly so anything still connected shows itself before you break it.
    Do I have to remove both of those hard lines? Which part do you squeeze? I see a "tab" on the top/bottom.. but also plastic on the sides.

    Do you squeeze on the top/bottom and then pull out?

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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    I noticed the brake boosters plug shown below is loose (It pulls right out and doesn't seem to be connected tight). Did I somehow break this part? Or is this supposed to easily disconnect?



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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    UPDATE: I got the nylon collar off 1 of the connections. It was the TOP/BOTTOM tab I pressed and pulled back and it came off.

    I still need to know if I broke that brake booster part though, or if that's normal for it to be loose. Thanks.
    APR
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    Piggies/Neuspeed G2
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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings themadscientist's Avatar
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    That's a suction jet pump, and no, it should not just come apart. Very necessary to replace. If it comes loose you'll lose all brake assist.
    2005 A4 Avant 1.8t QTM

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
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    Update that piece of shit

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    Anyone have the part # for that thing? Dealer is only open so long, thanks.
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    Piggies/Neuspeed G2
    E-Codes + DDM 55w 6k
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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    Can I drive with it broken? Or will I have no brakes until I replace this?
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    BBS CH black/lip
    Piggies/Neuspeed G2
    E-Codes + DDM 55w 6k
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    I'm going to pick the part up now. I'm not sure how to replace it because those lines are on
    there really good. Should I just break the plastic on the part I'm replacing(suction pump)? Or should I try and
    soak it in soap and water and pry it off?
    APR
    Vogtland Coilovers
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    Piggies/Neuspeed G2
    E-Codes + DDM 55w 6k
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    UPDATE: You have to use a heat gun to get the hoses on/off the suction pump. I borrowed the dealers for the sides. The 3rd nipple at home I'll use a hair dryer to get off/on and the brake booster will be re-attached.
    APR
    Vogtland Coilovers
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings quattro_silver's Avatar
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    removed all the intake manifold bolts.. I'm beat. Hope to finish this up tomorrow. I have the manifold lifted and full access to the damn pump. You guys have been a great help so far!

    I followed that write up to a T and it included all the necessary parts to remove for anyone looking to tackle this job.
    APR
    Vogtland Coilovers
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    Piggies/Neuspeed G2
    E-Codes + DDM 55w 6k
    SRP pedals
    Hawk HPS + Adams slotted
    Kicker CompVT

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