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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    Soft brake pedal feel

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    I have noticed that the brake pedal has been feeling softer lately. But I do switch between this and a f250. I did all new pads and rotors since I was due, and I ran all new brake fluid. The car stops great and will kick abs if you push it too hard, but it's just so soft like nothing is there. Is there anything that can help this?

  2. #2
    Active Member Two Rings
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    maybe vacuum pump going bad?

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Stainless braided lines?
    2005.5 Dolphin Grey A4 Avant 2.0T Tip / Premium / Lighting / Cold Weather / Sport
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  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    How would a bad vacuum pump cause this? Wouldn't they be hard to push if that were the case? Never delt with this so I really don't know. I have looked at stainless lines, never really thought they would make much difference. I was kind of curious about metal guides instead of the weird rubber ones.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Water/air in the brake fluid? Brake fluid replaced at all in the past?
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    Yea just did. With all new pads and rotors

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Denio24's Avatar
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    What kind of bleeding procedure did you do? When I barely press my brake pedal i can start to already feel it lightly grab. I don't have to press it much more for some good stopping power. If you require more pedal travel to get a good stopping distance there is probably air in the master cylinder or in the lines.
    Garage: 2008 Quartz Gray Audi A4Q 6MT
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  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    Started with a power bleeder to remove all old fluid from resiviour and lines. Than did the old fashion way of pump and bleed. Didn't change anything. But at least my fluid is new.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Denio24's Avatar
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    I did a pressure bleed @15psi. Sometimes hitting the caliper with a plastic hammer can free some air from the piston walls. Any chance you let the master cylinder reservoir go empty?
    Garage: 2008 Quartz Gray Audi A4Q 6MT
    Tuning: JHM Tuned Stage 2 93 Octane w/ IE HPFP

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    What pads did you go with? Also are is there more travel than before or are the brakes engaging but just feel mushy?

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    No resiviour never went below min. I did because red stuff pads. They are very grabby. But yes peddle is mushy. Stiff as can be without car running. But mushy with it running.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings JayDog747's Avatar
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    You may have to bleed the brakes again. Stick with pumping the pedal. Stainless steel lines will help with firming up the pedal but stay away from the metal guides. I have about 10k left on my front pads and they are starting to knock. I'm going back to the rubber ones this weekend. You may need to take it in and have it checked for a vacuum leak. Maybe you need a hose or connector replaced.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    I would start with stainless lines. They make a big difference over old rubber lines.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    Well maybe I will get a new set of rubber guides since mine do have a small amount of play to them. They are cheap enough. And get a set of stainless lines. Any thoughts on ecs lines, or are Goodrich lines the way to go.

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    Sorry goodridge.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    I have Goodridge lines and have no complaints. No experience with the ECS lines. I would go with whatever you can get cheapest. They are functionally equivalent.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings jerseybrian's Avatar
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    I would install SS lines and the Tyrol Sport Brake Caliper Stiffening kit.
    REVO 2+ | VAST Meth | RAI HFC and 3" DP | Milltek S4 Exhaust | Autotech HPFP | 145bar PRV | JHM STS | BFI knob | 034 SD MM | ECS RA4 LWFW | ACT RS4 HDSS | QTP Cutout | Forge DV | APR Snub | Deval RS Front | Votexx 3pc wing | OEM Euro Bi-Xenons | Bilstein HD Shocks & ECS sleeves | Eibachs | RS4 RSB | S4 F&R Brakes | ECS S4 Slotted | Hawk HPS | ECS SS lines | FK LED Tails | CF Dipped Diffuser | Innovate LC1 | IE Billet | THULE | PODI

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings JayDog747's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerseybrian View Post
    I would install SS lines and the Tyrol Sport Brake Caliper Stiffening kit.
    As the brake pad wears down, the stiffening kit will start to knock. Which is why I'm going back to the rubber boots this weekend.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings jerseybrian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayDog747 View Post
    As the brake pad wears down, the stiffening kit will start to knock. Which is why I'm going back to the rubber boots this weekend.
    Didn't someone find some C-clips that eliminated that gap to make it a tighter fit?
    REVO 2+ | VAST Meth | RAI HFC and 3" DP | Milltek S4 Exhaust | Autotech HPFP | 145bar PRV | JHM STS | BFI knob | 034 SD MM | ECS RA4 LWFW | ACT RS4 HDSS | QTP Cutout | Forge DV | APR Snub | Deval RS Front | Votexx 3pc wing | OEM Euro Bi-Xenons | Bilstein HD Shocks & ECS sleeves | Eibachs | RS4 RSB | S4 F&R Brakes | ECS S4 Slotted | Hawk HPS | ECS SS lines | FK LED Tails | CF Dipped Diffuser | Innovate LC1 | IE Billet | THULE | PODI

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings JayDog747's Avatar
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    Yep! Still does it.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings jerseybrian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayDog747 View Post
    Yep! Still does it.
    hmm, what about the thicker bushing option Ive read about?
    REVO 2+ | VAST Meth | RAI HFC and 3" DP | Milltek S4 Exhaust | Autotech HPFP | 145bar PRV | JHM STS | BFI knob | 034 SD MM | ECS RA4 LWFW | ACT RS4 HDSS | QTP Cutout | Forge DV | APR Snub | Deval RS Front | Votexx 3pc wing | OEM Euro Bi-Xenons | Bilstein HD Shocks & ECS sleeves | Eibachs | RS4 RSB | S4 F&R Brakes | ECS S4 Slotted | Hawk HPS | ECS SS lines | FK LED Tails | CF Dipped Diffuser | Innovate LC1 | IE Billet | THULE | PODI

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings JayDog747's Avatar
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    Sorry 'bout the thread jack OP.

    I'm not aware of the thicker bushing option but the problem is metal against metal. The ECS kit has a rubber O-ring inside the metal sleeve that may help prevent it but I'm not going to find out.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings 80sGuy's Avatar
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    Bleed the air out again until it feels stiff. Might take more than once or twice.

    2008 A4 2.0T | Dolphin Gray Metallic/Dk Gray | multitronic | Bluetooth | Dk Wood | Convenience. | Premium. | Sprt Susp. | Bare-bone 100% factory stock!

  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    It's had over 2qts of fluid bled between it and the clutch I really don't think there is still air in it.

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Why didn't you use the pressure bleeder for the new fluid? That seems odd.

    A bubble could have gotten stuck in the abs module causing the mushiness.

    Don't slap aftermarket parts on just yet. This sounds like an underlying issue I would solve first.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
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  26. #26
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    I don't have a pressure bleeder. Never have had any issues with a vac bleeder before.. Already put pads and rotors on it because they needed replaced. Had very little pad left. I'm windering if I ended up with bad/old fluid. And the only reason I say that is because the new fluid I got from summit looked like honey. Didn't think anything of it at the time. Just got a new bottle from a local parts store and it's crystal clear. Just a thought.

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Soft brake pedal feel

    Quote Originally Posted by cdh9400t View Post
    Started with a power bleeder to remove all old fluid from resiviour and lines. Than did the old fashion way of pump and bleed. Didn't change anything. But at least my fluid is new.
    You said this in post 8. So did you or did you not use a pressure bleeder??

    Most fluids are tinted yellow so you can see them better I believe.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  28. #28
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    I never said I have a pressure bleeder. I said power bleeder. It's a vacuum bleeder that attaches to the calipers and pulls fluid out. Runs off an air compressor. Made by matco

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    I've always heard the terms power bleeder and pressure bleeder used interchangeably. My bad.

    So wait did you vacuum it dry then out new fluid in then? I'm confused.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    I've always heard the terms power bleeder and pressure bleeder used interchangeably. My bad.

    So wait did you vacuum it dry then out new fluid in then? I'm confused.
    All pressure bleeders are power bleeders, but not all power bleeders are pressure bleeders.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    I think a more apt description would be vacuum bleeder then. #pedantics
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings Denio24's Avatar
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    That definitely clarifies things. I've vacuum bled before and I do not like that method, as there is always some air left in the system. I like to pressure bleed because that ensures it starts by purging air from the master cylinder first, rather than the other way around. Try to gravity bleed for a few minutes per wheel to see if that fixes the problem.
    Garage: 2008 Quartz Gray Audi A4Q 6MT
    Tuning: JHM Tuned Stage 2 93 Octane w/ IE HPFP

  33. #33
    Established Member Two Rings cdh9400t's Avatar
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    Found my problem. Right rear caliper is leaking from the piston. It's not a lot, but enough to start Running down the backing plate. So I still might order a set of braded lines since I have to open the system up.

  34. #34
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdh9400t View Post
    Found my problem. Right rear caliper is leaking from the piston. It's not a lot, but enough to start Running down the backing plate. So I still might order a set of braded lines since I have to open the system up.
    Did you fix the issue ? I just bought a 2006 A3 with a very mushy brake pedal, I had to push it almost to the floor to stop the car, unnerving to say the least.
    When I get it home I'll pull the wheels and check for leaks....after that bleed the brakes, change pads if necessary etc.
    Any other suggestions ?

  35. #35
    Senior Member Three Rings 67Twisty's Avatar
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    Use Pentosin Dot 4 LV. It's the same as Audi OEM and Pep Boys carries it cheaper than dealer. 2006 on used low viscosity due to the design of the ABS. I also find I get a firmer brake pedal using the gravity bleed method. Standard rubber lines are fine unless you're racing it.


    Andy
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    ‘07 Avant 6MTQ
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