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  1. #1
    Senior Member Three Rings mfdk's Avatar
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    A4 B5 V6 2.8l
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    Rear Rotor with Pressed Bearing...?

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    Has anyone run across a DIY of how to replace the rear rotors with pressed bearing on them on 01 Audi a4 v6 2.8 FWD..!

    Cheers


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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    When I replaced the rear brake rotors on my old FWD, I also replaced the bearings. They're pretty cheap and you might as well, especially if you don't have access to a press (I didn't).

    Don't have a DIY but it's pretty straight forward. Can you gain access to a Bentley manual? There are instructions in there.
    FYI the outer cap, it's kind of a mushroom shape, is supposed to be "one time use" but don't pay any attention to that. I reused my old ones, just have to be a little gentle tapping them back in.
    Once those caps are off, there's a cotter pin you need to remove. Then pull off the nut locking plate. Then you can unscrew the nut from the stub shaft. Once that nut is off, you can slide the rotor off.

    To install new bearings, all you have to do is evenly tap in the new bearing races into the rotors. Use your old rotor/bearing as a guide on the correct orientation for installing the new races.

    They Bentley has information on proper stub shaft nut tightening to ensure the bearing/rotor will be properly seated.
    2011 Audi A4 Avant Prestige S-Line : Motoza ECU+TCU Stage 1, 4M Q7 6-piston with SQ5 rotors, C7 S6 rear brakes
    2001 Corvette (C5) Z06

    Past: 2015 A3 2.0T, 2001.5 S4 Avant 6mt , 2004 A4 USP 6mt , 1998.5 A4 1.8TM , 2001.5 A4 1.8TQM [gone and missed]

  3. #3
    Senior Member Three Rings mfdk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MetalMan View Post
    When I replaced the rear brake rotors on my old FWD, I also replaced the bearings. They're pretty cheap and you might as well, especially if you don't have access to a press (I didn't).

    Don't have a DIY but it's pretty straight forward. Can you gain access to a Bentley manual? There are instructions in there.
    FYI the outer cap, it's kind of a mushroom shape, is supposed to be "one time use" but don't pay any attention to that. I reused my old ones, just have to be a little gentle tapping them back in.
    Once those caps are off, there's a cotter pin you need to remove. Then pull off the nut locking plate. Then you can unscrew the nut from the stub shaft. Once that nut is off, you can slide the rotor off.

    To install new bearings, all you have to do is evenly tap in the new bearing races into the rotors. Use your old rotor/bearing as a guide on the correct orientation for installing the new races.

    They Bentley has information on proper stub shaft nut tightening to ensure the bearing/rotor will be properly seated.
    Thank you very much for a lengthy reply, yes i have attempted to replace the rotors without knowing that the bearings need to be pressed onto, i stopped there and put everything back together because i never really had all the bearing kit. So i bought a bearing kit complete with both right and left and I'm hoping i have the time to work on them this weekend. I wanted to make sure that i can do all this without requiring a visit to a machine shop.

    Thanks


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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdk View Post
    I wanted to make sure that i can do all this without requiring a visit to a machine shop.

    Thanks
    Yep, I used a hammer and a punch to evenly pound the bearing races into the rotor. You'll just need to be careful not to miss and scratch the bearing race itself...
    2011 Audi A4 Avant Prestige S-Line : Motoza ECU+TCU Stage 1, 4M Q7 6-piston with SQ5 rotors, C7 S6 rear brakes
    2001 Corvette (C5) Z06

    Past: 2015 A3 2.0T, 2001.5 S4 Avant 6mt , 2004 A4 USP 6mt , 1998.5 A4 1.8TM , 2001.5 A4 1.8TQM [gone and missed]

  5. #5
    Senior Member Three Rings mfdk's Avatar
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    A4 B5 V6 2.8l
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    Quote Originally Posted by MetalMan View Post
    Yep, I used a hammer and a punch to evenly pound the bearing races into the rotor. You'll just need to be careful not to miss and scratch the bearing race itself...
    Alright sounds good,

    Much appreciated
    mfdk


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  6. #6
    Senior Member Three Rings bmos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MetalMan View Post
    Yep, I used a hammer and a punch to evenly pound the bearing races into the rotor. You'll just need to be careful not to miss and scratch the bearing race itself...
    You can often take the old race and use it to pound in the new race once you've got it going.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmos View Post
    You can often take the old race and use it to pound in the new race once you've got it going.
    That's a good idea, but what method do you use to extract the old race from the old rotor? They're a moderate interference fit, and I can't imagine removing the old race with basic hand tools. I no longer own a FWD B5 but am still curious!
    2011 Audi A4 Avant Prestige S-Line : Motoza ECU+TCU Stage 1, 4M Q7 6-piston with SQ5 rotors, C7 S6 rear brakes
    2001 Corvette (C5) Z06

    Past: 2015 A3 2.0T, 2001.5 S4 Avant 6mt , 2004 A4 USP 6mt , 1998.5 A4 1.8TM , 2001.5 A4 1.8TQM [gone and missed]

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings mfdk's Avatar
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    The old race though has to be re-used correct because i never received that with the kit.


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  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    What kind of bearing kit did you get?

    I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o05_s00
    and it worked great for my front bearing. I did need two breaker bars and a LOT of turning by hand as the impact gun didn't have enough power. So it took a while but wasn't too hard.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Three Rings mfdk's Avatar
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    When i say bearing kit, i did not actually mean the tools to install the bearing and also this is for rear bearing.


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  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Best of luck!

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdk View Post
    The old race though has to be re-used correct because i never received that with the kit.
    If you bought a "full" bearing kit, it should come like this:

    There's an inner bearing, an outer bearing, new dust seal, cotter pin, nut locker (the thing that looks like a castle) and end cap.

    The bearings themselves are not like a self-contained ball bearing; they split into two pieces: the bearing race, and the part that spins (can't think of a good term for it).



    Since you will receive a new bearing race, you simply need to install that new bearing race into the new brake rotor. This will be done for both the inner and outer bearings, for each side.

    And don't forget to pack it with wheel bearing grease!
    2011 Audi A4 Avant Prestige S-Line : Motoza ECU+TCU Stage 1, 4M Q7 6-piston with SQ5 rotors, C7 S6 rear brakes
    2001 Corvette (C5) Z06

    Past: 2015 A3 2.0T, 2001.5 S4 Avant 6mt , 2004 A4 USP 6mt , 1998.5 A4 1.8TM , 2001.5 A4 1.8TQM [gone and missed]

  13. #13
    Senior Member Three Rings mfdk's Avatar
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    Yes, that does look like exactly whats on the kit that i bought



    Thanks


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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmos View Post
    You can often take the old race and use it to pound in the new race once you've got it going.
    Quote Originally Posted by MetalMan View Post
    That's a good idea, but what method do you use to extract the old race from the old rotor? They're a moderate interference fit, and I can't imagine removing the old race with basic hand tools. I no longer own a FWD B5 but am still curious!
    Just realized, since the bearing race is an interference fit, if you use the old one to help press in the new one then the old race will get stuck in the new brake rotor. So maybe don't do that unless you cut maybe a 1mm-wide slit in the old race.
    2011 Audi A4 Avant Prestige S-Line : Motoza ECU+TCU Stage 1, 4M Q7 6-piston with SQ5 rotors, C7 S6 rear brakes
    2001 Corvette (C5) Z06

    Past: 2015 A3 2.0T, 2001.5 S4 Avant 6mt , 2004 A4 USP 6mt , 1998.5 A4 1.8TM , 2001.5 A4 1.8TQM [gone and missed]

  15. #15
    Senior Member Three Rings bmos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MetalMan View Post
    That's a good idea, but what method do you use to extract the old race from the old rotor? They're a moderate interference fit, and I can't imagine removing the old race with basic hand tools. I no longer own a FWD B5 but am still curious!


    Quote Originally Posted by MetalMan View Post
    Just realized, since the bearing race is an interference fit, if you use the old one to help press in the new one then the old race will get stuck in the new brake rotor. So maybe don't do that unless you cut maybe a 1mm-wide slit in the old race.
    Just file the interference fit side of the race a bit and it'll go in easy but still be supportive. Should have mentioned that part.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings Wrath And Tears's Avatar
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    A punch and hammer is all I ever use to remove the old races, no press need. Unless my bearings are making noise I reuse them (I also make sure the races look good). Now I have a race installer that sits in the race like the bearing does and then you pound it in with a hammer.
    2017 MK7 CSGM GTI Sport DSG
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  17. #17
    Senior Member Three Rings mfdk's Avatar
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    well, it took me a bit of time to update this thread, i appreciate everyone's effort to answer my questions, I just used the old bearing to press on the Races, it worked like a charm.

    Thank you


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