Audi A4 Cracking Noise while turning

[Sgounder]

Hey Guys

I have 2003 Audi A4 1.8l 117,000 on clock I'm having this problem for over a month changed the front suspension(Control arms,Axle) checked for leaks on the rack no leaks had a tube leak but fixed that and did everything I could be still that annoying cracking noise while turning fast right or left does anyone have a clue. And another problem is clunking noise or like two metals hitting each other in the front suspension while going over bumps.

[renold458]

I have a similar problem, whenever I steer all the way to the left or right I get a loud clunk and its been driving me nuts.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Is your vehicle lowered at all?

Jason

[Jborch8]

Same here in regards to the cracking and clunking, and I'm lowered. The noises are not consistent with hitting bumps, but more with aggressive turns.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

One thing it could be is that if you have the wheel cut hard and the tire is hanging out side of the fender any little bit of compression from the suspension the fender lip can catch on one of the tread blocks on the tires. Unfortunately this is a draw back of a vehicle has little to no fender gap. Only real solution is to be more cautious when driving either don't cut the wheel as hard or slow down so the suspension isn't compressed. Could also be the top fender liner bolt catching a tire tread block as well. Removing it can help.

Jason

[Jborch8]

One thing it could be is that if you have the wheel cut hard and the tire is hanging out side of the fender any little bit of compression from the suspension the fender lip can catch on one of the tread blocks on the tires. Unfortunately this is a draw back of a vehicle has little to no fender gap. Only real solution is to be more cautious when driving either don't cut the wheel as hard or slow down so the suspension isn't compressed. Could also be the top fender liner bolt catching a tire tread block as well. Removing it can help.

Jason

Thanks Jason. My car has always sat at the height it's at now, and I haven't experienced the noise to this caliber. As OP states, turning hard right for me presents a "cracking" noise, as if something is under extreme stress. There is also an occasional loud BANG, like someone took a bat to the side of my car, when turning hard right. Axel maybe?

[eljay]

Does it feel like the wheels or the whole front end almost "skips" to the side when at full lock?

[teg2audi]

I would change out your sway bar end links, cheap fix and easy diy

[Jborch8]

I would change out your sway bar end links, cheap fix and easy diy

This was done when I did my suspension. End links are only 1 month old.

- - - Updated - - -

Does it feel like the wheels or the whole front end almost "skips" to the side when at full lock?

Yes

[MacFady]

What do your engine mounts look like and are they original? What does your subframe look like, any holes/cracks etc.?

[Jborch8]

What do your engine mounts look like and are they original? What does your subframe look like, any holes/cracks etc.?

Engine mounts didn't show any signs of leakage, subframe looked fine. I live in the NW, so no road salts here to worry about rust.

[eljay]

I have the same problem. Doesnt matter if Im driving straight or turning, smooth or bumpy. It come from my front left. I can feel it in the floor/pedals and slightly in the steering wheel but does not effect driving at all, just annoying. Im on H&R springs and Bilstein shocks. New upper and lower control arms, end links, sway bar bushings, inner/outer tie rods, rack and pinion and Audi 4 wheel alignment. All the bushings have silicone rubber grease on them and ALL NEW hardware was used. Only thing I haven't tried is replacing the upper strut bushings (forgot to when I replaced suspension). I also read about the subframe cracking from rust and checked it and its still solid (with some rust).

Side note:
When its wet out the sound almost completely goes away. When its dry out it comes back. The warmer (abouve 40*F) it is the worse it is and vise versa.

I do not know if this sound was going on before I replaced all of that. I bought the car from the PO and did the suspension and control arms so it could get inspected.

This is similar to my experience, but I only get this on full lock at (obviously) low speed. I'm on Koni FSD with Eibach springs. New control arms, tie rods, engine mounts, full alignment. The suspension is about 20k old.

Time to page old guy and diagnosticator to report to the lecture hall and explain to us how the whole front end is put together and why this is happening.

[Jborch8]

This is similar to my experience, but I only get this on full lock at (obviously) low speed. I'm on Koni FSD with Eibach springs. New control arms, tie rods, engine mounts, full alignment. The suspension is about 20k old.

Time to page old guy and diagnosticator to report to the lecture hall and explain to us how the whole front end is put together and why this is happening.

As is mine, similar parts list and labor, minus rack & pinion.

[Kevin C]

Make sure your upper shock rod bolts are tight. Verify bolt torques. Also curious... Take a look to see if the lowers are contacting where they get close by the spindle. I think it's possible for them to hit if your turning at low speeds and the lower arms get flexed. This appears to be by design.

Getting the bolts properly tightened on the arms can be a challenge. If I remember, its a torque value and a large rotation. I paint marked the heads of my bolts before I did the rotation part to make sure I got it right.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Thanks Jason. My car has always sat at the height it's at now, and I haven't experienced the noise to this caliber. As OP states, turning hard right for me presents a "cracking" noise, as if something is under extreme stress. There is also an occasional loud BANG, like someone took a bat to the side of my car, when turning hard right. Axel maybe?

Definitely plausible. Bad axles are pretty easy to identify. If you give them a shake and there is any sort of play it's probably a good idea to replace them. Might also be the sub frame. Its rare, but some times the pinch welds pop and you can hear the sub frame flexing.

Jason

[Sgounder]

So if I'm trying to put 19' wheels on my car would it make it worse from turning left and right any solution for this because need new tires ? and any one have a clue about the clunking noise that comes when you go on bumps?

Suthan

[renold458]

Does it feel like the wheels or the whole front end almost "skips" to the side when at full lock?

This happens to me when I take sharp right or left turn and have to turn the wheel more than usual

[CyberPMG]

Even though the control arms and end links are new, I would have them checked again in case of premature failure. I've had a set of Febi Bilstein control arms fail in a week with the bushing getting torn up.

Maybe check the subframe to make sure it hasn't come loose?

[diuvic]

I know this is gonna sound weird but, check your Power Steering fluid to see if its low. My car was making GOD AWFUL noises this winter and I would have never thought it would be related. Someone from work told me to check it and it was super low. I didn't see any leakage so I don't know if it just evaporated or something. Anyway, a little bit of power fluid later and it was in top shape.

[diagnosticator]

The symptom of noise occurring when the roads are dry, and then reduced noise when the roads are wet, imply that there is something loose causing the noise. When wet, the part/s causing the noise are lubricated by water so is less noisy. One part that can make noise consistent with this wet/dry variation, is a subframe that is moving under load, and the seams in the subframe are moving rubbing against each other making the noise. Welding the subframe seams will stop this from happening if that is the cause of the noises. If not, it won't hurt anything to have a stiffer subframe. My money is on the subframe seams making the noises. The subframe can be welded while installed. The seams don't need to be welded full length, just intermittently along the seam length.

[Jborch8]

The symptom of noise occurring when the roads are dry, and then reduced noise when the roads are wet, imply that there is something loose causing the noise. When wet, the part/s causing the noise are lubricated by water so is less noisy. One part that can make noise consistent with this wet/dry variation, is a subframe that is moving under load, and the seams in the subframe are moving rubbing against each other making the noise. Welding the subframe seams will stop this from happening if that is the cause of the noises. If not, it won't hurt anything to have a stiffer subframe. My money is on the subframe seams making the noises. The subframe can be welded while installed. The seams don't need to be welded full length, just intermittently along the seam length.

Thanks diagnosticator. I did some searching on this and found more information, including your #32 post here. Very surprising to me that this is actually a potential issue.

[Kevin C]

For what its worth, suspension forces / turning loads are lower on wet roads since the friction from the tire to the road is lower. This matters mostly when turning at low speeds. Also, from what I can tell, our suspension is designed to work with wheels the center the tread on the tires pivot axis of the suspension ( low or zero scrub radius). If by chance you have wheels with a large non stock offset (spacers) you could end up having extra for and aft movement of the arms when turning at low speeds. I have no proof this happens, it's just an observation from looking at the design.

Also, new arms or not, any tight or failing joint will generate nasty noises. Personal experience is that tie rod ends that are dry make some really bad sounds. Ovaled out lower ball joints are really hard to notice when you're wiggling the joints ( car assembled), but obvious when you take them apart.

I'm assuming you put in new tie rods when you did the arms?

[BimmerDawg]

Just checking in with the exact same noises here. Was doing it when I got the car two weeks ago and since have replaced very worn LCAB's and installed H&R sports on B5 perches. Everything else checked out when I had the struts apart so I'm at a loss. Car is an '02 Quattro 3.0 manual with 136k miles.

[userbob0001]

I have a clunk over bumps that doesn't happen when turning right and I have the skip when making a U-turn. I have some inner tie rods I'm going to try and I'll report back if they fix it. If they don't, I'll be looking closer at the subframe.

I have stock springs and struts and very recently upgraded motor mounts

[Let it snow]

I have a clunk over bumps that doesn't happen when turning right and I have the skip when making a U-turn. I have some inner tie rods I'm going to try and I'll report back if they fix it. If they don't, I'll be looking closer at the subframe.

I have stock springs and struts and very recently upgraded motor mounts

Worn strut mounts can make clunking noises too. Mine had 95k on stock sport suspension and it sounded terrible. New strut top mounts cured my noise.

[Jborch8]

I went to my mechanic last week, Redmond European (great shop), and had Monty the owner take a test drive with me. We replicated the noise by doing full-lock turns in a parking lot. He told me there wasn't really anything to worry about, and that if it was just happening at full-lock on the steering wheel, it could be the stress of the suspension components. He mentioned something about the bearing (or spring?) being bound up and could pop, making the harsh POP noise.

[daught]

Pump some grease in the CV joints. Ball CV joints make weird noises if you are used to pin CVs.

[BimmerDawg]

Pump some grease in the CV joints. Ball CV joints make weird noises if you are used to pin CVs.

The noise does sound more CV-joint related than suspension to me. Good recommendation.

[userbob0001]

I changed my inner tie rods and it seems to have gotten worse. I'm not sure if they're related. I have strut mounts in the mail and I'll post a status update once they're in. My clunk isn't affected by rain though. If that doesn't do it, I'll try the subframe.

[userbob0001]

I'm not the original poster, but I wanted to add my conclusion. It turned out that the rubber bushing had moved inside of the sleeve for the curved lower control arm so that the metal sleeve was touching the subframe and clunking against it when I hit certain bumps. I probably should have caught it when I was looking at the bushings, but I wasn't looking for it so I didnt' think twice

[msharifi]

Check your control arm bushings. Mine had cracks in it and was making that noise when turning wheels left and right on stop or very slow speeds.