Brake Pads, Rotors, Sensor

[SilverRings]

I read through all the threads I could find on brake replacements.

I'd like to keep the stock pedal feel as much as I can, but also want to reduce the dust. I know Akebobo ceramics are very low dust, but reduce the initial bite and pedal travel. I then came across some people mentioning EBC Red, that keep a lot of the same stock pedal feel and have less dust than stock?

Questions:
1. For the people who did EBC, how much cut back on dust did you see?
2. Must you replace the wear sensor on every brake change? If so, which one do I need? I see $35 one and $6 one on ECSs site.
3. For the guys who did Akebono, how are you liking the pedal feel? Obviously, the S4 has great stock brakes (over other stock cars). Did the pedal feel go totally soft on the change?
4. Brakes still feel fine, no vibration. But I read that you need to replace the rotors at every pad change?

[14S4GWM]

You dont have to replace the sensor but some sets of pads come with it, with that said if you get a new one throw it on.

I switched to Akebono and love the no dust feature, thats why I switched. Yes the initial bite is gone but you get used to it. I have no issues breaking and the feel is fine.

[Dr GP]

I replaced mine with Stoptech ceramics on all 4 wheels with OEM rotors. And yes, INITIALLY, the bite was different. It just took more foot pressure for brake to initially engage. After a week or so, I got used to the new pedal feels and it seems perfectly normal now. Am ecstatic every time I wash the car and there is NO brake dust.

[SilverRings]

You dont have to replace the sensor but some sets of pads come with it, with that said if you get a new one throw it on.

I switched to Akebono and love the no dust feature, thats why I switched. Yes the initial bite is gone but you get used to it. I have no issues breaking and the feel is fine.

I'm guessing that if I go with Akebono, staying with a solid disc (spirited driving and DD only) will help retain some of that bite. Cross-drilled and slotted has less surface area.

[14S4GWM]

I replaced mine with Stoptech ceramics on all 4 wheels with OEM rotors. And yes, INITIALLY, the bite was different. It just took more foot pressure for brake to initially engage. After a week or so, I got used to the new pedal feels and it seems perfectly normal now. Am ecstatic every time I wash the car and there is NO brake dust.

I love not seeing the dust too, its great.

I'm guessing that if I go with Akebono, staying with a solid disc (spirited driving and DD only) will help retain some of that bite. Cross-drilled and slotted has less surface area.

The factory rotors are pretty good. I would stick with them if I were you. You don't need anything else for daily driving.

[milesed]

I use EBC redstuff and have about 70% less dust compared to stock. I broke the OEM sensor so just zip tied the wire out of the way. I change out pads for track use so am able to keep a close eye on wear. I think the $6 part is the one I need if I replace it.

[lowjonathan]

I use EBC redstuff and have about 70% less dust compared to stock. I broke the OEM sensor so just zip tied the wire out of the way. I change out pads for track use so am able to keep a close eye on wear. I think the $6 part is the one I need if I replace it.

how is the initial bite for redstuff as compare to stock pads?

[s42014DSG]

Which street pad out there do you guys think can take the most abuse??

[Midnight_Rider]

No ceramic brake is going to have the same initial braking/bite as semi metallic pads (racing pads).

[milesed]

how is the initial bite for redstuff as compare to stock pads?

It seems about the same. Low dust, no noise, good bite when cold, same performance as stock.

[mr shickadance]

I love not seeing the dust too, its great.



The factory rotors are pretty good. I would stick with them if I were you. You don't need anything else for daily driving.

avoid factory rotors, if you are going to go with the standard rotor, there is no reason not to opt for the myele rotor. it's 1/5 the price, and the exact same thing. Its like buying the walgreen generic benadryl vs actual benedryl, same shit, much cheaper. that little 4 ring stamp will cost you an extra $100 per pair.

[sacandagaD]

avoid factory rotors, if you are going to go with the standard rotor, there is no reason not to opt for the myele rotor. it's 1/5 the price, and the exact same thing. Its like buying the walgreen generic benadryl vs actual benedryl, same shit, much cheaper. that little 4 ring stamp will cost you an extra $100 per pair.

I agree, I went with OEM in front for no real reason, but then bought Myele's when I changed the rear and they seem perfectly fine.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

RedStuff pads should have better initial bite as they aren't ceramic (ceramic needs to see a little heat before it grabs which is why you notice a delay). RedStuff pads are Kevlar.

Jason

[14S4GWM]

avoid factory rotors, if you are going to go with the standard rotor, there is no reason not to opt for the myele rotor. it's 1/5 the price, and the exact same thing. Its like buying the walgreen generic benadryl vs actual benedryl, same shit, much cheaper. that little 4 ring stamp will cost you an extra $100 per pair.

He didn't say anything about having to get new rotors. Thanks for the tip though.

[wangshuo1989]

avoid factory rotors, if you are going to go with the standard rotor, there is no reason not to opt for the myele rotor. it's 1/5 the price, and the exact same thing. Its like buying the walgreen generic benadryl vs actual benedryl, same shit, much cheaper. that little 4 ring stamp will cost you an extra $100 per pair.

Thanks for sharing info!

[mr shickadance]

I'm guessing that if I go with Akebono, staying with a solid disc (spirited driving and DD only) will help retain some of that bite. Cross-drilled and slotted has less surface area.

He didn't say anything about having to get new rotors. Thanks for the tip though.

that made me think he was going with new rotors. if you are going with new rotors, but not cd or slotted, the myeles are perfectly fine. It's what I currently run, there is absolutely no noticeable difference.

[14S4GWM]

that made me think he was going with new rotors. if you are going with new rotors, but not cd or slotted, the myeles are perfectly fine. It's what I currently run, there is absolutely no noticeable difference.

Ahhhh I see our confusion now. Thanks again.

[jayts]

RedStuff pads should have better initial bite as they aren't ceramic (ceramic needs to see a little heat before it grabs which is why you notice a delay). RedStuff pads are Kevlar.

Jason

I'm about to order your slotted rotors again but don't want the hawk pads again, not enough bite for me, what do you recommend to go with those rotors besides HPS, ebc red or green, and why...thanks

Btw im looking for initial bit between stock and HPS but less dust than oem, no track time ever but I drive hard


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[s42014DSG]

What about HPS 5.0?

[mr shickadance]

I'm about to order your slotted rotors again but don't want the hawk pads again, not enough bite for me, what do you recommend to go with those rotors besides HPS, ebc red or green, and why...thanks

Btw im looking for initial bit between stock and HPS but less dust than oem, no track time ever but I drive hard


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when I had my b7, I opted for EBC Green stuff, they were great pads, and if it was not for me hearing so many good things about the akebono's I would have used them again. Minimal dust, MILES improvement over stock, and to be hoenst, after the akebono's I think I am going to go back to green stuff, I think it's a better suit for me and my driving ( i don't really do much hard braking)

[SilverRings]

RedStuff pads should have better initial bite as they aren't ceramic (ceramic needs to see a little heat before it grabs which is why you notice a delay). RedStuff pads are Kevlar.

Jason

http://ebcbrakes.com/product/redstuff-brake-pads/
It says these pads are still Ceramic... What might bother me is having the red metal backing on the pads. Doesn't seem like that would look good next to back calipers, dark wheels and discs.

Still up in the air after all my research. RedStuff or Akebonos? It seems like RedStuff doesn't have some of the cold braking issues, and just a little bit more dust then the Akebonos. On the other hand, tons of people swear by the Akebonos.

Leaning towards Meyle rotors, because reviews on google haven't said they noticed any vibrations or faulty rotors. They are less than half of the stock rotors price for all 4. Zimmermanns are still cheaper than stock, and manufactured in Germany.

[14S4GWM]

^ Hit the red with some high temp black paint. Others here have recommended Meyle rotors too.

[SilverRings]

If I am doing Rotors, pads at 55k, do i need new fluid at this time as well? Then, if i do that, should i go SS lines? How do the stock rubber lines on the B8 S4 hold up over time? Has anyone noticed improvements with SS lines over stock?

[14S4GWM]

If I am doing Rotors, pads at 55k, do i need new fluid at this time as well? Then, if i do that, should i go SS lines? How do the stock rubber lines on the B8 S4 hold up over time? Has anyone noticed improvements with SS lines over stock?

Break fluid should be changed every two years if using factory fluid and you haven't tracked it. You will feel slightly better pedal feel when stepping on them with SS lines but they are really helpful when tracking.