Probably common issue " ya just gotta know" , I don't...

[S44SS]

Hi all,
I have a 01 B5 S4
I'm sure there is a post on my issue, I just can't find it, please point me to the post if you think it might help...
THANKS in advance for any help that comes of this. S
He it goes,
Car runs fairly well
When I spank it in 3,4,5thor6th it pulls well, I see boost on the gauge, it pulls up to about 13psi (usually pulls up to about 17psi) and then it coughs and TOTALLY looses boost, if I keep my foot into it it seems to gently pulls wit just slight boost, sub 5psi.
STRANGE THING
In second gear, the car go us like a scalded cat right up to red line, boost full on, IT SEAMS????
When I code the car I pull p1122, p1140 and p0300, I have since changed plugs and new gas filter.
Not long ago car ran great, pulled hard in all gears and different variables that occurred when car started running shitty was a full tank of gas (that was five or six full tanks ago) plugs/filter changed since...
Car still has issues.
ANY DIRECTION OR ADVICE WILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED
S

[Peter1.8t]

Have you pressure tested?

[S44SS]

Hi Peter, No I have not pressure tested. How can this be done? Is it something that has to be done at the dealer. Safe to assume if I can pressure test and I find a leak I'd repair leak and hopefully all good. If no pressure leak is there somewhere else to look? Any idea if an ECU can loose settings? Tanks for your feedback. S

[f4m0u5]

http://turboboostleaktesters.com/audi-s4-2-7t/

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-Leak-Test-DIY

[DieselElectric]

What did you gap your plugs to?

Also, what plugs did you install?

[dozer103]

You're describing car in limp mode in 3rd gear & up. Do you have access to Vagcom? 1122 & 1140 are bank 2 rear O2 sensor codes. 0300 is random multiple cylinder misfire, wouldn't think 0300 would cause limp mode without another misfire code with it indicating a specific cylinder(s) - like 0301, 0302, etc. Like Diesel said, check right plugs & properly gapped. Get a new rear O2 sensor for bank 2. Then look at fuel trims in Vagcom, watch for adding fuel indicating a vacuum leak. If all that good pressure test for boost leak.

[DieselElectric]

Misfires under load will cause limp mode. It is to keep raw fuel from dumping into the cats and burning them up.

[dozer103]

Very true!

[S44SS]

Hi guys, thanks for the input...
I got the parts to make the pressure tester mentioned.
I will let you know how that goes.
The plugs installed are Bosch Iridium 9610 I left the factory gap as per sales guy as adjusting damages tip as per sales guy?? I think .044
PLEASE NOTE
The problem was there prior to plugs and f filter change.
NOT SURE IF THIS MAKES SENCE BUT- It seems that the car pulls fine and holds boost in second gear "sometimes"?
Also when problem was first noticed it seemed to be intermittent with a week or so when all good now problem seems always present now.
Well I'm going to try a pressure test.
Thank again for your help.
ss

[f4m0u5]

Get some bkr6e or bkr7e plugs. They are cheap but you gotta replace them around evry 10k miles.

And the plug gap should be around .027... thats what i need to use to keep my spark from blowing out.

Id start by removing ur plugs and gapping them down to .027 .044 is WAYYY too large

[DieselElectric]

^ Yup. I would be willing to put money on the plug gap causing the issue.

On my setup I have to gap them at .019, before I went crazy I was able to get away with .028.

.044 will never work.


Also, iridium's are nice if you don't like changing plugs often. That said, Copper is a superior conductor, and much much cheaper. The BKR7E's are the way to go , IMO.

[dozer103]

^ x3

[jimmer009]

If you do the 2.0 coil swap you will gain a lot more spark. I was able to gap my plugs a lot more. To .035. And no more mis fires at idle or full boost.

[S44SS]

UPDATE
I made up a pressure tester as recommend above...
Could not get any pressure.
Found leak, I think hose split, will know more upon removal.
It appeare it is a small hose behind and a bit lower than the left (pas. side) diverted valve.
The hose is about the size of ones finger and appears to be a "y".
Hopefully that's the only leak, of course I will retest pressure.
Again I will keep you posted.
I will change plugs n gap to about 028
Thanks again
S
now to find the hose...

[DieselElectric]

F hose.

Happens all the time.

[S44SS]

Well Good news BAD news
Well the f hose was torn...
I replaced the f hose and I took the car out for a romp, car ran OK but on a hard pull it didn't cough and studded but it did spill boost what seemed intermittent??
I did another pressure test.
While trying the test I was not getting any pressure buildup still.
I could hear air blowing out of the PCV valve, I put my thumb over the PCV and pressure built up.
I could see the pressure slowly climb and at about 10psi I herd a POP sound, pressure dropped and I could hear a "bubbling sound"
I now have an oil leak somewhere, there was quite a bit of oil on the garage floor.
So my car is now unusable until I locate and repair leak.
WTF Happened?
I feel like I'm going backwards...
ss

[DieselElectric]

Did you still have your thumb over the pancake valve outlet when it popped? The reason you want that disconnected and venting is so that your crankcase doesn't pressurize.

Did you have the oil cap off?

[S44SS]

Yes I had my thumb over pancake valve
Yes I believe the oil cap was on.
I used a plug in tire pump for the air pressure and was at about 10psi when I herd the "pop". There was no pressure building up at all without the PCV blocked???
Also wondering, the "F" hose - the bottom of the f goes towards the spider hose, the top of the seems to go into the intake manifold, WHERE DOES THE MIDDLE OF THE "F"HOSE GO TO... ??? I wonder if that hose might be the thing that "popped"???
I guess my first step now is to take care of the oil leak, any ideas for finding leak. Should I use the pressure test to pressurize and find leak?
I'm trying to understand... If a properly running car was to have a pressure test and see a pressure hold of around 15psi, I can get my head around that. Now when a car with a leak I can understand the pressure leaking out af a hose or fitting on the intake system, BUT I can't understand how it seemed like no restriction on the air going into the air intake and OUT through the crank case. Where the heck is such an opening and..........
I think I'm over my head on this
Thank you in advance for any help that can be provided.
All the Best!
ss

[DieselElectric]

If you put your thumb over the pancake valve and had the oil cap on, AND reached 10psi, you have most likely blown a seal out. The crankcase was never intended to be pressurized, it operates at atmospheric pressure or a vacuum depending on operating conditions, never pressure.

Pray you didn't pop your rear main. Could have been a plug in the valve cover. Where is the oil coming from? If it's coming from the inside of the trans bellhousing, you have officially fucked yourself.

Also, get a real air compressor with a reservoir. Your rings aren't a 100% seal, so you need enough air to overcome the natural internal leak down. You also need that pcv open, and the oil cap open to prevent exactly what you did.

[S44SS]

Well I figured I screwed myself when I herd the pop...
I got it up on a hoist and can see bottom rear of engine damp from oil but it looks like it comes from mid area of engine BUT I am not sure.
Oil level still at 4/5 in d stick Q-should I run engine and if so will be apparent where the leak is OR should I us the Fn' pressure tester I made up and add a bit of pressure to the system and look for oil leak that way???
If the pressure test were to have worked properly and the system was all OK, what would have been the result ?? Would pressure hold? Would I hear air coming out at the oil cap or PCV.? And if that's the case it doesn't seem like a pressure test more of pump air through the system...
WHERE DOES THE MID TUBE ON THE F HOSE GO TO???
Thanks
S
It looks like a big project no matter what, I'm fucked....

[dozer103]

Not necessarily. Look at the big (1 3/4") round rubber cam plugs on the back of the cylinder heads. May have just popped one out.

[S44SS]

I hope you are right dozer123... Would that not be nice...
I haven't had a chance to look things over yet
I figure I will use a few cans of brake cleaner, get engine all dry, put in some oil leak dye,
top up the oil and run the car on the hoist for a few minutes and God willing I can easily find the problem.
Again thanks for input. Bye for now!
S

[4LiterBeater]

I hope you are right dozer123... Would that not be nice...
I haven't had a chance to look things over yet
I figure I will use a few cans of brake cleaner, get engine all dry, put in some oil leak dye,
top up the oil and run the car on the hoist for a few minutes and God willing I can easily find the problem.
Again thanks for input. Bye for now!
S

I pray to the unmerciful b5 s4 gods that you didn't blow the rear main or crank seal. And the mid hose of the f hose goes to the spider hose which is the CC breathing system. That allows positive pressure out but never allows it in.

If I were you I would pull and rebuilt that spider hose. Thing is a problem from the factory. Head up to you if you opt to do this, that thing is brittttttttle. I broke mine while I was taking off the N75 vacuum line. Just be careful.

[S44SS]

I have not had a chance to look at anything yet
It has been to fricken cold
The nice weather is soon coming and I will get into this...
I will keep the post posted...
S

[S44SS]

Oh and thanks 4Liter...

[S44SS]

Well I am back in the area and I am going to tackle this project...
Any direction or ideas are welcome
S

[S44SS]

I put in uv dye, topped up oil, used about a dozen cans of brake cleaner and cleaned engine top and bottom.
Car starts perfect, and ran it on hoist... all started to look clear for about 10 minutes then significant oil leaking from front of engine above the pan. It appears to me it is the front main seal. I read that if it leaks, it can first leak into an area that after a bit of time (10 min) the oil leaked out accumulates then it starts pouring out. It then looked like oil was getting wipped around and getting messy... The oil pressure was good and car shut down. So it looks like front main I guess. ???? If it is the FMSeal, any good posters one would recommend, my understanding is the crank bolt and locking the engine are tough. Any suggestions or guidance welcomed...
I will keep you posted.
Thank So!
s

[S44SS]

UPDATE
I found oil leak.
DieselElectric you were wight I blew out the front crank seal, that was the "Pop" sound
I did the seal, tbelt and accessory belt all good all dry
Took car to Dealer n they said a few coil packs NFG
I replaced all six coil packs (beck-Arnley)
Runs good but when spanked it still goes to limp
My SIMPLE OBD tells me P0300 multiple cylinder misfire
I am going to get the plugs F4m0us suggested and try them at .027 as they are still the ones at .044
The saga continues
S

[Monty23]

NGK 4644 plugs at .025" gap and your misfires will go away. Be super careful when installing the plugs not to put any side load on them while tightening so the ceramic housings don't end up cracking.

[S44SS]

UPDATE
Monty23, already did it before I saw your post
Installed all new plugs NGK 4644 gapped at .027
ICM, cleaned all contacts and new thermal paste (Arctic Silver)
Took car for test drive when car was "a bit warm/cooled", spanked car and it ran fantastic, turbos held in, no misfires, car pulled in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear no problem.
Thought had things fixed, did a real steep pull and ran well, after that I did a pull in 3rd gear and and it misfired
WTF???
Could this be temperature related???
Now all hard pulls in 3rd and 4th gear misfires occur, never in 2nd gear
WHY DOES 2ND GEAR ALWAYS PULL PERFECT, FULL BOOST RIGHT TO RED LINE, NO MISFIRES IN 1ST OR 2ND, BUT THE MISFIRES OCCUR IN OTHER GEARS??
Was able to get cylinder 2 to misfire on numerous hard pulls and a few occasions of multiple cylinder misfires
I guess it appears that I have a few gremlins living in my car, now I'm reaching, could this be fuel related?
Thanks again for your time and help,
S