Return power steering hose banjo bolt is leaking

[SlickFix]

Hey guys,

Not such a great wrenching day today. I installed a return hose from ECS today, using the new 22mm banjo bolt that comes in their kit. After putting everything back together(except for the driver's side wheel), I started the car up to begin the refill. I checked the bolt, and sure enough it was leaking. I've been trying to tighten it up some more, but it now feels stripped. It's definitely not getting tighter anymore.

My thinking leads me to two possibilities:

- The ECS banjo bolt is not the correct one for my rack, even though it did screw in by hand just fine.

- I tightened it too much initially, and now I've either stripped the bolt..or(please Cod, no) the threads in the rack.

My plan for tomorrow is to try to remove that bolt from ECS and install the original bolt that is sitting on my workbench.

Does this sound like a good plan? Has anyone ever had this happen? Is it even possible to strip the threads on the rack? I didn't think that I was cranking that hard on it. And, I can't exactly get my torque wrench into that tiny spot. I was trying to get it "guten tight".

I would appreciate any and all suggestions.

[DarrenOman]

Slick, sounds like a good plan to me. Thats a pretty big bolt to strip. Hopefully the PS pump threads are still good. Install the original bolt. Make sure you place a washer either side of the pipe head, when re-installing. Good luck

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[SlickFix]

Thanks, Darren. I was able to remove the ECS bolt and install the original bolt, with two new washers...same leak. On close inspection of the ECS bolt, I saw the aluminum threads of the rack in the grooves.

So just for fun, I called the dealer yesterday and asked them if there's anyway to put a tap or helicoil into the rack. They said maybe, but they've never done it. They also quoted me $3250 for the rack replacement, including an alignment and tax....but not the outer tie rod ends.

I was considering just paying them to do it, because I've saved thousands doing things myself over the past 6 years. But, this morning I started thinking maybe I'll do it myself. I've changed out the rack on the my wife's B6 A4 Avant, and that wasn't completely awful. My only concern is getting the rack out without having to remove the upper control arms. I don't know whether my pinch bolt will come out or not, without a lot of effort.

I know that I can do the job for less than $1000, so it really hurts to think about ponying up at minimum $3250.

[gcoy]

Do it yourself. $2250 will feel pretty good in your wallet.

[jakeoboy67]

I would completely remove the upper suspension components+strut+ knuckle on that side to make some place for the rack removal.

How long since the last time the pinch bolt was removed ??

[DarrenOman]

Slick, when you installed the original banjo bolt, could you tighten it down okay or are the threads gone?
Was just thinking, if the threads are okay, could you use a fiber washer instead of a metal one. That might help to seal the bolt from leaking.
I had a PS leak (air getting into the system) and changed out both pipes in and out of pump, without luck. My buddy recommended using PTFE thread tape on the pump out solid pipe to flex connector and bingo, air leak fixed. But after i spent couple of hundred dollars.
What i'm saying is think outside the box to fix your leak before dumping money into it. I totally understand how frustrating a leak can be.


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[SlickFix]

What i'm saying is think outside the box to fix your leak before dumping money into it. I totally understand how frustrating a leak can be.

The threads were good when I first installed the replacement banjo bolt, but I stripped the threads in the rack, which were now part of the grooves of the banjo bolt. I hear what you're saying, though. Do you think I could put some kind of sealing compound or pipe tape on the banjo bolt threads, in the hope that the tape replaces the threads in the rack to make the seal? I guess I really have doubts that it would work, but it wouldn't hurt to try.

What would you guys recommend? Something like gray RTV? Or a thicker pipe tape?

How long since the last time the pinch bolt was removed ??

Your guess is as good as mine, but the upper control arms could be originals. In fact, they do need to be replaced. And, being a Minnesota car, my bet is those pinch bolts are seized solid. At any rate, I've decided to do this job myself. I'm too old and stubborn to throw $2000 out the window when this is a job I've successfully done before.

[SlickFix]

Looks like Loc-Tite makes a kit, but I'm skeptical that that would be strong enough. Time-serts have been getting positive reviews, and look much stronger.

[JayDog747]

I don't think any type of sealant is going to work because the system is under pressure. It looks like no matter what you want to do, that puppy's coming out. I just finished replacing the steering rack and decided to replace the wheel bearings also. Having the strut and spindle assembly out made it a helluva lot easier. I picked up one from the Rack Doctor and only have ~500 miles on it so the jury is still out on the reliability. You can also give this place a call and see if they can help ya:

http://zf-steering.us/

Good luck on that G-damm! Phuk'n! Son of Beech'n! pinch bolt Piece of Sheet!

[SlickFix]

I don't think any type of sealant is going to work because the system is under pressure. It looks like no matter what you want to do, that puppy's coming out. I just finished replacing the steering rack and decided to replace the wheel bearings also. Having the strut and spindle assembly out made it a helluva lot easier. I picked up one from the Rack Doctor and only have ~500 miles on it so the jury is still out on the reliability. You can also give this place a call and see if they can help ya:

http://zf-steering.us/

Good luck on that G-damm! Phuk'n! Son of Beech'n! pinch bolt Piece of Sheet!

Yeah, I for sure have to take the rack out. I also agree that the Loc-Tite is not going to hold. Now the only decision is to try a time-sert(if I can find one the correct size) or go straight to the new rack. I'm leaning toward just getting a new rack because of of 109k miles on the clock. Thanks for the link. I'll probably either use them or the Rack Doctor.

[JayDog747]

I can understand trying to tap it. Less expensive. You just have to make sure you get all the metal shavings out. Granted, the filter may catch em but still you don't want it floating through the system. Plus, if it doesn't work, you are out a core deposit. Although you may already be if they catch it. I replaced mine at 101k due to play. But when I took it out, I discovered the seals were starting to go because of some light oil film around a couple of the openings.

[bioluminescent]

I went through this nightmare a couple years ago. First shop straight up told me they couldn't find the leak, so I chose to tackle the return hose myself, sure that was the problem. I was bending tools and crap with a blow torch just to reach the damned banjo bolt. I finally was able to get to it, and the leak got worse. Out of frustration I brought it to another shop finally. They were able to figure it out immediately and said the O ring was damaged. I didn't even ask any questions. I regret that part of my life. Ended up only costing me a few hundred to for the shop to take care of it.

[SlickFix]

I decided to order a rack from Rack Doctor. I'm going to get new outer tie rod ends, too. I think all of the suspension is original, so it's due for a change anyway. I can buy a lot of parts for the $3250 the stealership wanted to soak me for.

For some reason, the banjo bolt was much easier to access on my B7 S4 compared to my old B6. They looked the same, but on my B6 the high pressure line was a little lower and made getting a wrench onto the return line banjo bolt a real nachtmare.

[JayDog747]

This wrench worked great

https://www.google.com/search?q=angl...bzyGlPnSrVM%3A

And for the rear most bolt, I was able to tighten it through the fire wall.

[SlickFix]

This wrench worked great

https://www.google.com/search?q=angl...bzyGlPnSrVM%3A

And for the rear most bolt, I was able to tighten it through the fire wall.

Yep, I used that offset wrench combined with a combination wrench. It was easy, albeit slow, going.

When you refer to the "rear most bolt", are you referring to the 19mm banjo bolt, or the steering rack bolt?

[JayDog747]

Sorry yes, the banjo bolt.

[SlickFix]

The godz of pinch bolts have smiled upon thee!

The driver's side pinch bolt spun right off and popped out as if it were only torqued to 20 ft lbs. Easiest pinch bolt removal EVAH! Unbelievable for a Minnesota car.