Voltage Regulators - Let's Talk!

[SJorge3442]

My 3.0 has been throwing some tantrums and now the alternator has taken a crap. After talking to others, it seems like the voltage regulator is the origin of issue for low voltage readings, so I'd like to swap that out before shelling out for a whole new alternator (only the bearing and diode can really go wrong on the rest of the alternator).

FCP has a remanufactured Bosch unit for $85 + $25 core (who mails cores back anyway) so let's call it $110. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-...ag-038903803ex

They also have a NEW Huco brand regulator only $50 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...tor-070903803b
I've reqd good things about Huco and it seems plenty of people are running them without issue.

Alternator part number is 078 903 016 SX 02.

What would you guys do? Use the Bosch (where I'm heading currently) or risk the Huco. Thankfully I don't need my car as I live in the city and walk or ride my bike to work, but I'd still like to get something ordered so I can align myself to fix this next weekend.

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[john_gonzo]

SJorge, good info in your post. I have no vote on the regulator source but wanted to mention new slip rings are available. Info here: Alternator-new-slip-rings.

[cschuster]

I'd give the huco one a shot. Only 50 bucks, so even if it craps out in a year, you've got your money out of it. If it was me, i would replace the slip rings too while it's out like john said. That's pretty much an alternator rebuild.

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[SJorge3442]

SJorge, good info in your post. I have no vote on the regulator source but wanted to mention new slip rings are available. Info here: Alternator-new-slip-rings.

Great info! That article mentions the removal of the bearing on the alternator. Is that required on or cars? How long does it take to crack open the alternator and do this? I've never played with alternators before so its all new to me. Usually I go to a junk yard and pull one and then slap it in

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[SJorge3442]

Going with the Huco! Wish me luck. I'm just gonna start with this. Maybe slip rings if this doesn't work. I'm getting ready to burst into detail mode, not repair mode lol. She might get sold this summer if I can get a decent offer. I REALLY want a boosted car that I can sink some money in. Then again, I love my b6 so who knows what will happen. I always talk about perhaps selling but I never do

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[ADCS]

Based on how long the OEM regulators last, I would replace it with another Bosch unit. Why gamble on Hucco and risk being stranded. Dead voltage regulator = dead car.

You should also replace the brushes while you have it apart. They are cheap. This is for Valeo but you get the picture.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...rushes-(Valeo)

[SJorge3442]

Based on how long the OEM regulators last, I would replace it with another Bosch unit. Why gamble on Hucco and risk being stranded. Dead voltage regulator = dead car.

You should also replace the brushes while you have it apart. They are cheap. This is for Valeo but you get the picture.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...rushes-(Valeo)

Like I mentioned, I've found quite a bit of positive reviews on the Huco unit on other European car forums. Seems like a good part brand around the board. Also, from what I know, the brushes are part of the regulator and run in the slip ring. Its the swapping of the slip rings that I still need confirmation on. I don't mind spending another $20 bucks to swap out the slip rings, if its an easy job. If the bearing needs to be pulled (information I still need), then I'll just swap that too. I won't have a chance to examine everything until the car is thrown into service position, so we'll see what it looks like. If the slip rings are worn, I'll throw them on order. I've never split an alternator, so this is one of the few times I'd like to just take a short cut.

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[Luxus Panzer]

If it helps or not, here is a link to some Alternator pics.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...7#post11294137

[deyrag]

I would get a cheap used one and throw it in, then rebuild your original one and put it back in. Then either sell on the used one or keep it as a spare, depending on how much you trust your rebuild work :)

[SJorge3442]

I would get a cheap used one and throw it in, then rebuild your original one and put it back in. Then either sell on the used one or keep it as a spare, depending on how much you trust your rebuild work :)

I've thought about that option too. I've found a few alternators in the Philly area, but I'm not sure I feel like doing everything twice, especially on the 3.0 where the alternator is a bitch to get to. I just ordered the Huco regulator as that seems like a really good choice. I'm going to hold off on the slip rings until I get a view of them (I'm sure they are pretty beat up by now), and I'll throw that on the list of parts to replace. Knowing my luck, I'll yank the alternator out and the bearing will be loose, the slip rings will be fubared and the new regulator wont fit. If that happens, the alternator will get dropped off at a rebuild shop in the area. We'll see. Cross your fingers!

[imnuts]

I would have just gone with a remanufactured alternator. If I was curious, I'd attempt to rebuild it myself then sell it, otherwise I'd send it back if it were worth the core charge or trashed it if not. There isn't enough of a cost difference for me to want to go through the headache of doing it twice.

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[SJorge3442]

I would have just gone with a remanufactured alternator. If I was curious, I'd attempt to rebuild it myself then sell it, otherwise I'd send it back if it were worth the core charge or trashed it if not. There isn't enough of a cost difference for me to want to go through the headache of doing it twice.

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There's must so little that can really go wrong with the alternator that would justify the the price of a reman Bosch unit. Those things are upwards of $300 or more. I'm rolling the dice on just doing the regulator and I know that. If the slip rings are bad, I'll be ordering those and tackling that later. I don't mind working on the car, I just mind throwing extra money that might not be needed. Not to mention I still have all that transmission fluid from you that I have yet to use.

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[SJorge3442]

So here I am again. Car is having charging issues. I used the HUCO regulator, but never changed anythign else. That got me through the rest of the Winter/Spring/Summer/Fall, but here we are again with charging issues. My car is turning over pretty slow (don't have my voltage regulator with me) and my fuel pump (<6k miles) is making a noise when its priming that sounds like its not getting enough juice. I think I am gonna just order up a remanufactured unit. Anyone have any other suggestions?

[tHatOne guY]

Well if you go reman, do not get the lifetime warranty reman units from Autozone, OReilly etc. I went through 3 of those in 3 years on my Mark 4 Jetta. I purchased a brand new Bosch unit, not reman from Amazon for about 20$ less than the O'reillys reman unit and no problems since.

Are there no alternator rebuild shops in your area?

Maybe go with a Bosch voltage regulator.. if that's even the failed part in your original alternator

Almost forgot, check for parasitic drain issues and at least for the 1.8T guys the d@mn battery cable from the alternator to the battery B+ side

[SJorge3442]

Well if you go reman, do not get the lifetime warranty reman units from Autozone, OReilly etc. I went through 3 of those in 3 years on my Mark 4 Jetta. I purchased a brand new Bosch unit, not reman from Amazon for about 20$ less than the O'reillys reman unit and no problems since.

Are there no alternator rebuild shops in your area?

Maybe go with a Bosch voltage regulator.. if that's even the failed part in your original alternator

Almost forgot, check for parasitic drain issues and at least for the 1.8T guys the d@mn battery cable from the alternator to the battery B+ side

There's rebuild shops, but that required down time. I was leaning towards a REMY reman unit from rock auto. Research proved that REMY makes some quality reman units, so I think I can trust them.

In reference to the regulator - I'm at the point this time where I would rather just get a working part on it. Winter is coming (is here) and I don't have a warm place to spend wrenching.

[Spike00513]

Isn't 100% battery charge somewhere around 12.7V?

A light stayed on over night (and have since fixed it), but according to a chart online it drained my battery to 75%. I'm thinking of getting a CTEK charger to use on it, or drop it off at an auto parts store for their charging service. The latter is free, but more difficult, requiring removal of the heavy battery from the car.

Someone told me just driving would charge it back up, but I hear the alternator is more for maintaining where it's already at. Few days later, checked with DVM, was still the same.
It's been a while now though, guess I can check again.

I have a spare used 3L regulator, IDK if that works for you. Or if it's something you'd want to rebuild.

Hopefully the fuel filter is good. I heard that although Mann is good for air filters, that the fuel filter is made in China and can have quality issues. And that you want OE manufacturers that dealerships also use for it, such as Kayser and KYG.

My starter was ~$60 from PartsGeek, Bosch, reman or rebuilt. Maybe it had a warranty but I hear PartsGeek isn't the best with support. I was hoping I wouldn't need any.

IDK If this applies to 3L, but a 1.8T'er found that by swapping only one small cheap plastic part, he could fit a new B8 alternator he got a deal on, with more amps.
My interior lights dim a bit if I try operating electronics/drawing power elsewhere, such as window switch. Not sure if that's a concern.

Wish I could say more but that's where my knowledge ends.

[SJorge3442]

Yes full charge is somewhere aroudn 12.7, but the alternator needs to put out over that, generally above 13v, to keep it charged up. Otherwise short trips would constantly drain your battery. The noise from my fuel pump is certainly not a clogged filter, its just more of a whine from lack of power to prime the pump. It sounds like when any battery powered device starts getting low of juice.

I don't suspect my issue being with the regulator this time, as my voltage really hasnt changed too much. I think this may be a slip ring issue. They were pretty grooved when I replaced the regulator last year, but needed the car back on the road asap so I never changed them. They were no where near as bad a Gonzo's from his post above, but even that website doesnt have the parts available any more. Heres shots of the rings and regulators from 3/12 of this year. I was have tempted to get the slip rings now and do it, but I can't seem to find them anywhere.

[5ktq]

I got some alt and starter parts from this place on eBay, selling German parts http://stores.ebay.com/triomotors

Haven't used any of it yet but it all looks good. I got slip rings and brushes for all the cars to have on hand, cause you sure can't find that locally, here.

[5ktq]

This is just brush and slip ring kit http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/282234956107

And this is normal alt rebuild kit http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/282236098626


edit: I cross-ref'd these for my (1.8T) alt, though I'm relatively certain the above parts should all be the same on 3.0 (the alt as a whole isn't, but these parts should be) - as long as it is Bosch. Valeo is different.

[SJorge3442]

@5ktq, good stuff! I simply do not have time to fidle around with waiting on shipping on a product from Latvia. I just need my car up and running and reliable. I went ahead and ordered a Delco-Remy reman from RockAuto. Theres an $80 core, so my unit will be going back in the box and shipped back to RockAuto for my refund, otherwise I would play around with the guts and such. I'll let everyone know how this turns out when I swap the alternator again, which suchs on the 3.0 btw. Gonna be looking like this again this weekend.

[ErikG]

SJorge, besides charging issues, what other things were you experiencing as the alternator was on its way out?

[SJorge3442]

SJorge, besides charging issues, what other things were you experiencing as the alternator was on its way out?

Just the low charging voltage. My fuel pump has been sounding weak the last few good starts. Dash and interior lights have also been dim when the car isn't running.

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[Kevin C]

It takes a long time to fully charge a battery, so when they do get run down for what ever reason its hard to get them fully charged if your only doing short trips. As we all know, a partially charged battery sulfates faster, so any time with a low charge is reducing the life of your battery a lot faster than when its fully charged. A low cost battery charger over night is all I have ever used. The voltage needed to get to a full charge increases as the temperature goes down. When bringing a battery back up, after a fast charge, I generally shoot for about 14 volts or so at 2 amps.

Personal experience with alternators is I will take good used unit and freshen it up over most rebuilts. Especially when it comes to the regulator. Brushes are not a big deal, same with bearings.

[ErikG]

Just the low charging voltage. My fuel pump has been sounding weak the last few good starts. Dash and interior lights have also been dim when the car isn't running.

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Thanks for the info, i am chasing down an electrical bug that i think may have something to do with the alternator but im not sure.

[SJorge3442]

Thanks for the info, i am chasing down an electrical bug that i think may have something to do with the alternator but im not sure.

FWIW, I did used to have an alternator buzz in my radio (AppRadio2), but that went away like a month or two ago when I had to pull my radio out to get my chromecast out for use at a party. I guess what ever was causing the ground loop (correct term?) was touched when I did that and there is no more buzz.

[ErikG]

FWIW, I did used to have an alternator buzz in my radio (AppRadio2), but that went away like a month or two ago when I had to pull my radio out to get my chromecast out for use at a party. I guess what ever was causing the ground loop (correct term?) was touched when I did that and there is no more buzz.

That would be the correct term, although it could also be caused by the ignition system(plugs or wires). I hope pulling the radio is easy, sounds like a lot of work to remove a relatively cheap device but it sounds like it was worth it to remove the buzzing in the system. I have been trying to fix a weird headlight leveling error that i cant wrap my head around, which is a thread i think you have posted on. A VAGCOM would help but the system seems to be happy as of late.

Cheers and good luck with you issues,
-Erik