Solowerks (or general) Coilover DIY tips?

[theSaint024]

After almost 4 years of having my AR pretty much stock, I've been inspired to install coilovers and get wheels. Almost certain I'll get Solowerks due to the reviews and the fact that I don't want my ride too different, just a tad stiffer. Killerboots AR build finally pushed me over the edge. I could not ignore how good the AR can look with the right set up. Although getting a shop to install isn't cost prohibitive given the time it'll take me, I still decided to go DIY just out of curiosity and educational reasons. I've never done a spring/coilover install. It should be enlightening!

I have read a ton of DIY's including the ECS KW instructions. My biggest fear is what I typically come across, some unanticipated problem like prep removal of liners etc. that slow me way down while I problem solve. Any tips for unexpected problems or needing some obscure tool (already know about spring clamps) or parts (additional hardware) that you experienced DIYers can enlighten me with? And out of curiosity, how much time did/should it take? I've mostly heard around the 4 to 8 hour range. I can live with that. Unfortunately, I always seem to come across something that adds hours, whether it's running to the store to buy some special tool or trying to get around some problem.

I am reasonably mechanically inclined and have an acceptable set of tools to get the job done. Apparently I'll need to add offset box wrenches for the dampers. Wondering if there is anything else you guys can think of off the top of your head as far as tools or steps? Thanks!

[earhythmic]

I just did mine a few days ago. This was the first time undertaking a DIY of this scope, but it was all pretty straight forward. I read and researched all the the relevant DIYs like you did and felt prepared. To answer some of your questions, and some tips:

Two jacks are nice, but I got away with one jack and using jack stands.

I did it completely by myself over the course of two evenings. I probably have about 13 hours total into the project. Having an extra pair of hands from the girlfriend or wifey would've made a few steps easier, like trying to bolt up the front strut hat. The helper just need to hold it in place while you find and line up the bolts.

Speaking of the front strut hat, what no DIYs address is that one of the bolts is close/partially under the wires coming out of the relay box on the drivers side. It's easy enough to remove by wiggling in a socket, but reinstalling the bolt and lining up the hole to not cross thread is a bitch. This is where a helping hand is almost nesseccary. Since I was doing it alone (was late and the GF was asleep) I burned close to an hour trying to line up that stupid bolt.

Rear spring removal is pretty annoying too. I did the ratcheting cargo strap thing, but even with that there's barely enough space. I'd say skip the foreplay and just drop the subframe. That would've saved me a couple hours too if I wasn't so foolhardy.

Ratcheting open box wrenches are a must. Pick up two 16mm and two 18mm if you don't already have them.

Also I wouldn't be so sore if I had an impact wrench. Buy, borrow or rent one if you don't have one. It'll DEFINATELY speed up the process.

The most annoying bolt is the one that attaches the rear strut to the knuckle since it's torqued down to 110 ft lbs. There's no space for a cheater bar, so I cleverly positioned my ratchet handle and used a floor jack to break it loose/retorque it. This is a large 22mm (I think) bolt.

When you completely install one side before the other and take a step back to look at your handy work, don't be fooled by the initial height and lower it! It'll appear higher until you complete the other side. I stupidly fell into this and when I was all done I was WAY too low and was getting some extreme knocking because the sway bars were hitting things.

Be sure to have a torque wrench (duh). There are some tight spaces, so if you can get ahold of some smaller ones (like with a max range of ~60 ft lbs) you'll be in good shape.

I followed this DIY pretty much to the T: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4331031
I was able to skip step 5 because if you loosen that pinch bolt and unbolt the strut hat everything will just fall out and you can wiggle the shock assembly out.

If I were to do it again knowing what I know now, I could probably knock the whole thing out in about 4 hours.

Good luck!

[Iridium.]

I am reasonably mechanically inclined and have an acceptable set of tools to get the job done. Apparently I'll need to add offset box wrenches for the dampers. Wondering if there is anything else you guys can think of off the top of your head as far as tools or steps? Thanks!

A spindle housing spreader socket. This socket allows you to spread the small gap in the rear of the steering knuckle to allow for easier removal of the front struts. The great aspect of this, is that the socket can be left in and removed from the ratchet during removal and installation.



How the socket is inserted.

[theSaint024]

I just did mine a few days ago. This was the first time undertaking a DIY of this scope, but it was all pretty straight forward. I read and researched all the the relevant DIYs like you did and felt prepared. To answer some of your questions, and some tips:

Two jacks are nice, but I got away with one jack and using jack stands.

I did it completely by myself over the course of two evenings. I probably have about 13 hours total into the project. Having an extra pair of hands from the girlfriend or wifey would've made a few steps easier, like trying to bolt up the front strut hat. The helper just need to hold it in place while you find and line up the bolts.

Speaking of the front strut hat, what no DIYs address is that one of the bolts is close/partially under the wires coming out of the relay box on the drivers side. It's easy enough to remove by wiggling in a socket, but reinstalling the bolt and lining up the hole to not cross thread is a bitch. This is where a helping hand is almost nesseccary. Since I was doing it alone (was late and the GF was asleep) I burned close to an hour trying to line up that stupid bolt.

Rear spring removal is pretty annoying too. I did the ratcheting cargo strap thing, but even with that there's barely enough space. I'd say skip the foreplay and just drop the subframe. That would've saved me a couple hours too if I wasn't so foolhardy.

Ratcheting open box wrenches are a must. Pick up two 16mm and two 18mm if you don't already have them.

Also I wouldn't be so sore if I had an impact wrench. Buy, borrow or rent one if you don't have one. It'll DEFINATELY speed up the process.

The most annoying bolt is the one that attaches the rear strut to the knuckle since it's torqued down to 110 ft lbs. There's no space for a cheater bar, so I cleverly positioned my ratchet handle and used a floor jack to break it loose/retorque it. This is a large 22mm (I think) bolt.

When you completely install one side before the other and take a step back to look at your handy work, don't be fooled by the initial height and lower it! It'll appear higher until you complete the other side. I stupidly fell into this and when I was all done I was WAY too low and was getting some extreme knocking because the sway bars were hitting things.

Be sure to have a torque wrench (duh). There are some tight spaces, so if you can get ahold of some smaller ones (like with a max range of ~60 ft lbs) you'll be in good shape.

I followed this DIY pretty much to the T: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4331031
I was able to skip step 5 because if you loosen that pinch bolt and unbolt the strut hat everything will just fall out and you can wiggle the shock assembly out.

If I were to do it again knowing what I know now, I could probably knock the whole thing out in about 4 hours.

Good luck!

Thanks man! Exactly the kind of bullshit problems I was looking to identify. I am fortunate that your pain is so recent. I did see your post and the VW DIY on my journey this past week. It's just hard to get a feel for the time consuming steps vs. the "tighten bolt" steps while reading and looking at pics.

My takeaways from your informative reply:
1) My setup of one floor jack and two jack stands will be acceptable.
2) Need extra hands for front strut hat reinstall, or toil for an extra hour.
3) Just drop the subframe for rears.
4) No visual adjusting of height until both sides done.
5) Rear strut to knuckle, use jack to get leverage. Hard to visualize this one now, but I'm sure it will make plenty of sense at that step.

Now some questions about the tools suggestions, before I go out and buy $100 in tools. As a typical dude, I don't ever mind buying tools, but don't want to get somethings that I will use once and take up space when a reasonable alternative is available.
1) Ratcheting open box wrenches - I have box wrenches and sockets, both deep and regular. Can I make do with this, or is your "is a must" statement literal and will save me lots of time and effort. I'm not really sure of the application, so hard for me to make this call. Also, I believe I have to buy offset box wrenches anyway, so will those suffice as well instead of ratcheting box wrenches?
2) Impact wrench, check.
3) "Smaller" torque wrench - I have a bigger 1/2 inch click torque and a smaller beam torque wrench (requires being able to see the reading). Would these work or you think I still need a small clicker?
4) See below - Iridium's suggestion of the spindle housing spreader. Is this really necessary, i.e. suitable alternatives? I will buy this one time use $30 socket if I have to.

A spindle housing spreader socket. This socket allows you to spread the small gap in the rear of the steering knuckle to allow for easier removal of the front struts. The great aspect of this, is that the socket can be left in and removed from the ratchet during removal and installation.

Thanks man. This stupid thing costs $30! I will buy if you guys don't think there's an easy way around it.

[Iridium.]

3) "Smaller" torque wrench - I have a bigger 1/2 inch click torque and a smaller beam torque wrench (requires being able to see the reading). Would these work or you think I still need a small clicker?
4) See below - Iridium's suggestion of the spindle housing spreader. Is this really necessary, i.e. suitable alternatives? I will buy this one time use $30 socket if I have to.


Thanks man. This stupid thing costs $30! I will buy if you guys don't think there's an easy way around it.

The larger torque wrench should suffice. It really comes down to tight quarters and tough angles though, where the larger one may have issues. You generally should be alright doing a coilover install as most bolts are easily accessible (from what I remember anyways).

As for the spindle socket. It beats using a pry bar and trying to remove the strut at the same time. You can give it a go without it, but personally I would recommend it. It doesn't need to be Schwaben or another brand name. As you may only need it this one time. See if your local Autozone has one that they would let you borrow, or possibly have one at a more reasonable price.

[earhythmic]

My takeaways from your informative reply:
1) Ratcheting open box wrenches - I have box wrenches and sockets, both deep and regular. Can I make do with this, or is your "is a must" statement literal and will save me lots of time and effort. I'm not really sure of the application, so hard for me to make this call. Also, I believe I have to buy offset box wrenches anyway, so will those suffice as well instead of ratcheting box wrenches?
2) Impact wrench, check.
3) "Smaller" torque wrench - I have a bigger 1/2 inch click torque and a smaller beam torque wrench (requires being able to see the reading). Would these work or you think I still need a small clicker?
4) See below - Iridium's suggestion of the spindle housing spreader. Is this really necessary, i.e. suitable alternatives? I will buy this one time use $30 socket if I have
5) strut to knuckle, use jack to get leverage. Hard to visualize this one now, but I'm sure it will make plenty of sense at that step.

1) The limited space for bolt access is why open box wrenches will come in handy. You'll have a tough time fitting a standard socket onto more than half of the bolts you have to access. Plus, a lot of these bolts are pinch bolts, so you need hold the nut on one side while spinning the bolt from the other. That's why I say 2. If you have one non-ratcheting, invest in just a single ratcheting one. There's not a lot of space in most places and you'll only be able to barely get a 1/16 turn on some bolts. The ratchet will speed this up.

2) good!

3) If using the beam torque wrench make sure the dial is facing the correct direction for your socket attachments. My dial was facing the wrong way which of course added time and forced me to become familiar with arts of a contortionist.

4) I used a heavy duty flat head screw driver as a spreader. For that step you barely need to spread the strut support. I left mine wedged in there the entire time. The only benefit for that proper spreader attachment is you get leverage from the wrench. There's no rubber gaskets there so you're not going to damage anything.

5) You'll likely be able to remove this bolt with your impact wrench, but you'll definitely need to use my "trick" for torquing it back down to make sure it's to spec. To elaborate, this is the bolt that attaches the lower part of the rear strut to the knuckle. I referenced the ESC KW install PDF too, and the step I'm talking about is step 1 for the rears, page 21.

[earhythmic]

Also, I just realized you're in SF. I'm in the East Bay, if you want to make a DIY day out of it I'm willing to help.

[theSaint024]

Also, I just realized you're in SF. I'm in the East Bay, if you want to make a DIY day out of it I'm willing to help.

Wow, thanks man. I didn't expect that. I'm not sure if all the stars will line up, but if you actually want to help me I'll definitely try to work something out. I will PM you shortly.

Funny, I didn't see this generous offer until after I ordered about $90 in tools - ratcheting wrenches and that friggin Schwaben spreader (Iridium's suggestion). Could have possibly borrowed a tool or two, oh well. You can never have enough tools. I still need to pick up a set of offset box wrenches, but maybe I don't absolutely need those (ECS instructions page 17 and 23). Looks like I might be able to wedge an open ended wrench into there just enough to tighten? This set is cheap at Harbor Freight, but I have to drive an hour to get to one.

[earhythmic]

It's after business hours. Cancel the orders!

[AllroadCorbin]

Good luck on your DIY. I have a 2013 Allroad too and recently ordered some AG wheels and the solowerks coils as well. I'm planning on doing a DIY with some local Audi friends in the coming weeks. If you do yours before mine, please post any tips/ roadblocks/ oh shit moments/ wish I had known things haha

There's still a small chance I will get sick of looking at the coils and wheels in my house (they arrive next week) and just pay somebody to install them... but hoping to avoid that. DIY can be fun and really satisfying if you don't fuck it up

[theSaint024]

It's after business hours. Cancel the orders!

I got a good deal on the wrenches, so I want to keep those. That spreader might be useful too, some day. Anyway, like I said, you can never have enough tools.

Good luck on your DIY. I have a 2013 Allroad too and recently ordered some AG wheels and the solowerks coils as well. I'm planning on doing a DIY with some local Audi friends in the coming weeks. If you do yours before mine, please post any tips/ roadblocks/ oh shit moments/ wish I had known things haha

There's still a small chance I will get sick of looking at the coils and wheels in my house (they arrive next week) and just pay somebody to install them... but hoping to avoid that. DIY can be fun and really satisfying if you don't fuck it up

I've been following your posts as well. I'm thinking the same thing as far as wanting coilovers that go back to stock height, but not a deal breaker. From the sounds of it, these coilovers can get back to only one inch drop, which should be ok for "winter" wheels and a stock look and true AR height. I say "winter" because I'm in CA and I might have the winters on for a couple months for ski season, if that. Even during ski season in Tahoe, the mountains usually don't have snow on the roads, but I digress. A slight drop with winters should still be ok, IMO.

I'm pretty sure you'll beat me to the DIY since your parts are at least on order or in possession. I'm close to pulling the trigger, maybe tomorrow for the coilovers. I'm going to install them on the stock wheels for now. Wheels will be a longer process since I'm looking for a sweet used deal. Either way, I will try my best to document those outlier steps that instructions always miss or underestimate.

[earhythmic]

Good luck on your DIY. I have a 2013 Allroad too and recently ordered some AG wheels and the solowerks coils as well. I'm planning on doing a DIY with some local Audi friends in the coming weeks. If you do yours before mine, please post any tips/ roadblocks/ oh shit moments/ wish I had known things haha

There's still a small chance I will get sick of looking at the coils and wheels in my house (they arrive next week) and just pay somebody to install them... but hoping to avoid that. DIY can be fun and really satisfying if you don't fuck it up

Honestly, those things I posted above are all of the "FML" moments.

A buddy and I were supposed to do this together, but he keep having things come up making him unavailable. I toyed with the idea of getting a shop to install, but decided to tackle it myself, for both saving $ in labor and just getting tired of looking at the coils sitting in my room for three weeks.

Also, I'm rocking the stock wheels right now too. For another 15 hours!

[AllroadCorbin]

I got a good deal on the wrenches, so I want to keep those. That spreader might be useful too, some day. Anyway, like I said, you can never have enough tools.



I've been following your posts as well. I'm thinking the same thing as far as wanting coilovers that go back to stock height, but not a deal breaker. From the sounds of it, these coilovers can get back to only one inch drop, which should be ok for "winter" wheels and a stock look and true AR height. I say "winter" because I'm in CA and I might have the winters on for a couple months for ski season, if that. Even during ski season in Tahoe, the mountains usually don't have snow on the roads, but I digress. A slight drop with winters should still be ok, IMO.

I'm pretty sure you'll beat me to the DIY since your parts are at least on order or in possession. I'm close to pulling the trigger, maybe tomorrow for the coilovers. I'm going to install them on the stock wheels for now. Wheels will be a longer process since I'm looking for a sweet used deal. Either way, I will try my best to document those outlier steps that instructions always miss or underestimate.

Yea Im fine with a small drop in Winter but the car can't be low in Boston/ Maine in the Winter... I'll be a snow plow. I was hunting for a used deal too but I always worry about used wheels and tires not riding perfectly smooth so I went with new so I could always get a replacement if something isn't right. I do way too many highway miles to have a single vibration.

[AllroadCorbin]

Honestly, those things I posted above are all of the "FML" moments.

A buddy and I were supposed to do this together, but he keep having things come up making him unavailable. I toyed with the idea of getting a shop to install, but decided to tackle it myself, for both saving $ in labor and just getting tired of looking at the coils sitting in my room for three weeks.

Also, I'm rocking the stock wheels right now too. For another 15 hours!

I'm gonna talk to the shop I use and ask if they can give me a goodwill steal on install since I've done way too much business with them as is haha. If not then DIY will continue as planned