FWIW...I've been at this for almost 20 years. Which makes me...damn...old. Anyway... Methods above are all fine, although I'd stay away from the torch unless you're very well versed. Heat is important, but you don't necessarily need that much heat. If you have a heat gun...perfect. Otherwise, a blow dryer is more than sufficient, and doesn't really add that much time.
Prep is key. Heat is one component, but a good adhesive remover is the other. Use both liberally before you start tugging behind each emblem. I use 3M 08984 General Purpose Adhesive Remover, and this is a great product to have on the shelf. A small chem-safe plastic squeze bottle with a small opening makes the job very easy. Be fairly liberal with the heat and the adhesive - a pre-soak followed by heat, and then both repeated will really soften up the gooey stuff. I use a small plastic putty knife simply because I find it easier to control than fishing line or dental tape, but all three are safe to use. Keep applying heat and adhesive as you work, and you'll have the emblem off in no time.
The quality of your prep will be reflected in how much adhesive is left to remove. You can still use heat and adhesive remover, but now you start risking swirl marks and micromarring. Your goal is a clean finish that doesn't take much polishing effort, so I can't emphasize the prep work enough. When you start feeling your line/tape/knife grab or stick, it's time to apply more heat and liquid. Be sure to finish by washing the vehicle, or using your favorite detail spray to clean up the remaining adhesive remover and other residue, and then apply your favorite paint protection.
I offer this as a pretty inexpensive value-add on my detail services, and most detailers do the same. Something to keep in mind if you'd rather not do this yourself.
Bookmarks