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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 11 2015
    AZ Member #
    365692
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    PA

    No heat, bleeding coolant line

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    Long story short. Took car to shop to fix j plug. Got car back with no heat. Took it back to shop and they flushed heater core. Heat worked for 200 miles. Next day it didn't.

    Please help... Thanks!!

    https://vid.me/jHuv

  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 11 2015
    AZ Member #
    365692
    Location
    PA


  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Dec 11 2015
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    PA

    When i crank the fan up, it gets colder. Medium fan = more heat at idle. Is this normal?

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings imnuts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 12 2009
    AZ Member #
    46297
    My Garage
    '21 F-150 Powerboost Lariat & '14 Acura RDX
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    Dirty Jerz

    Sounds like you have an air bubble in the heater core.

    Sent from my DROID Turbo 2

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Dec 11 2015
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    365692
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    PA

    Quote Originally Posted by imnuts View Post
    Sounds like you have an air bubble in the heater core.

    Sent from my DROID Turbo 2
    Damn, still?! Should it be spraying up from that tiny hole the whole time when the hole is exposed?

    Yeah, at idle it with fan cranked up definitely isn't as hot as when fan is at medium.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 07 2011
    AZ Member #
    73592
    My Garage
    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
    Location
    CT

    Yes, you should get a steady stream once the air bubbles are gone.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Dec 11 2015
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    365692
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    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    Yes, you should get a steady stream once the air bubbles are gone.
    I've got a steady stream now...but should that coolant coming from the hole be warm?

  8. #8
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Dec 11 2015
    AZ Member #
    365692
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    Quote Originally Posted by iksnoved25 View Post
    I've got a steady stream now...but should that coolant coming from the hole be warm?
    I Let it stream steady for close to 10 minutes. Put the hose and clamp on and heat seemed alright for the next 25 mins. I Had it blasting on high on the drive home, and I was pretty much sweating. Hopefully whatever it was is finally sorted. I still have no clue what I did differently that time compared to all the others. Guess we'll see tomorrow morning if I get heat
    Last edited by iksnoved25; 02-25-2016 at 08:50 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 11 2015
    AZ Member #
    365692
    Location
    PA

    Okay, so I drove to work this morning (30 mins) and the heat was hot as hell. As in "LOW" was cold, and 64 (next step up) it was hot. Almost like there was no middle ground between Low and High. Assuming air was in the heater core, which has now been bled, would this "new" issue now be the thermostat?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    Apr 07 2011
    AZ Member #
    73592
    My Garage
    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
    Location
    CT

    You should probably scan the HVAC module for codes. There's a possibility one or more of the flapper doors are not functioning correctly.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Dec 11 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    You should probably scan the HVAC module for codes. There's a possibility one or more of the flapper doors are not functioning correctly.
    I just came across some threads about just that. I hear replacing the motor is a PITA requiring you to remove the dash.

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ideo-Need-Help!
    http://www.audiforum.ca/a4-b5-b6-b7-...leaning-72039/

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    Apr 07 2011
    AZ Member #
    73592
    My Garage
    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
    Location
    CT

    The flappers are under the glove compartment. You don't have to remove the dash AFAIK.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  13. #13
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 11 2015
    AZ Member #
    365692
    Location
    PA

    Quote Originally Posted by iksnoved25 View Post
    I just came across some threads about just that. I hear replacing the motor is a PITA requiring you to remove the dash.

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ideo-Need-Help!
    http://www.audiforum.ca/a4-b5-b6-b7-...leaning-72039/
    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    The flappers are under the glove compartment. You don't have to remove the dash AFAIK.
    Thank you both for the info. I think I may download that VAGCOM lite to at least scan the codes to see what is thrown. I think I had two problems... (1) Air in the lines (2) Flapper motors not working. That would explain why last weekend when I drove it after getting it back I had to have it on like 64 or Low just to be comfortable. I noticed the lower temp was hotter than what it should be. It was difficult to find a comfortable temperature.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings imnuts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 12 2009
    AZ Member #
    46297
    My Garage
    '21 F-150 Powerboost Lariat & '14 Acura RDX
    Location
    Dirty Jerz

    The driver's side temperature control motor is by the gas/accelerator pedal, all others are behind the glove box. The one on the driver's side is a HUGE PITA just so you know.

    Sent from my DROID Turbo 2

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Aug 26 2005
    AZ Member #
    7741
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Try resetting the servo motor adaptations by running Basic Settings in measuring block 001. Doing this will often resolve servo positioning errors, restoring normal operation for awhile at least.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Aug 19 2013
    AZ Member #
    121375
    Location
    minnesota

    uploadfromtaptalk1456719301838.jpgthis fixed my temp dropping with heat on.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

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