$400 1.8T Build

[Granite A4]

Ok so I found a 1.8t in need of love online. Paid $400 for a nice looking black 2001 a4. It did fire but sounded like it was hitting the valves. I killed it after about 2sec of running. I was told it had been rebuilt and then it started running like this. So I have it apart and this is what I have found. The TB tensioner is fully extended and doesn't seem to be holding tight. I lined up the cam pulley and this is what the crank pulley mark looks like. I believe that other line is a mark but honestly I'm not sure if it is or not. I'm hoping someone can confirm that.

The next thing is the cam marks. The TB pulley mark lines up but the intake cam mark seems to be off. I'm not sure if this is a whole tooth or if the cam tensioner is gone.

This is exhaust


And intake without moving anything.

Any help is appreciated. I'm not new to motors just new to this one so I'm hoping someone who is familiar can help.

[RagtagXMASTER]

your lower mark looks a little off but that might be ok. I have a similar issue but the cam lineups are normal like that. I am replacing the chiain tensioner to solve my issues since mine will not hold the chain. it is still in time but will not advance or retard timing. I verified this in vcds though. try and get some codes off it if it has any with a vag-com cable

[Granite A4]

your lower mark looks a little off but that might be ok. I have a similar issue but the cam lineups are normal like that. I am replacing the chiain tensioner to solve my issues since mine will not hold the chain. it is still in time but will not advance or retard timing. I verified this in vcds though. try and get some codes off it if it has any with a vag-com cable

Would I be able to tell even without running it? I am doing the timing belt since it appears to be jumped so I was hoping to bang it all out while it was apart

[RagtagXMASTER]

You could run the engine with the valve cover off and youd probably see the timing chain tensioner load pressure on the chain and then collapse right away. Or if you just turn it by hand from the crank


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[Granite A4]

Unfortunately I found the real problem. Tucked in behind the motor mount on the drivers side there is a hole. Looks like we threw a rod. I'm impressed somewhat because it did actually start and ran on its own power when I was looking at it. Oh well though chassis was worth what I paid.

Anyway now I'm wondering if anyone can answer a new question. I have a 2000 a6 2.7 6 speed. Will the motor from that drop into the 01' 1.8? I believe the subframes are different but I'm more curious if the fact that they are both me7 means that it just plugs in? I'm sure there's more to it but I had originally hoped to put the 2.7 in my 98 a4 until I found out about the wiring nightmare of the different operating systems

[ben2401]

The 2.7 will drop in if you also use the subframe from the A6... V6 and I4 subframes are different but the same between B5 and C5. The B5 uses the inner holes for the front control arms and the C5 uses the outer, as it has a wider track. You will need a 2.7 ECU as it is ME 7.0 vs 7.1. The 2.7t has narrowband O2 sensors and EGT sensors, the 2001+ AWM has a wideband 02 with no EGT. The 2.7 will hook up fine to a 5 speed 01A, but may need a stronger clutch. Some people convert the 5 speed to use a 240mm flywheel and clutch off the 01E for this reason. Your axles will work fine as long as you keep the 5 speed trans on the A4.