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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Quick catch can q

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    I know this is covered and there are many diys. I'm partly retarded some times.

    Id like to use a catch can in line with the oem pcv system. Would I just disconnect the lower pancake valve hose, run it to the catch can inlet, then re connect the outlet hose to the pancake valve? Is this an effective method?


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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Found this through search, is it an effective method?

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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Id like to do this minus deleting the f hose line.. Any issues with that?

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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjt671 View Post
    Id like to do this minus deleting the f hose line.. Any issues with that?

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    Lots of the oil comes through that line going to the f-hose hence why it's deleted. Contemplating a catch can myself right now, just need to figure out a good solution with the 034 spider hose I'm running

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LightningLou View Post
    Lots of the oil comes through that line going to the f-hose hence why it's deleted. Contemplating a catch can myself right now, just need to figure out a good solution with the 034 spider hose I'm running
    True. I just now realized the function of the all the components after going through the self study again..
    When there is vacuum in the intake mani, the air distributor directs flow through the f hose using pcv valve, when there is charge pressure in the mani, blow by is routed into the y pipe, cylinder heads are vented into the air distributor.

    Ideally I would like my set up to work with all the oem components intact, and without hindering the already old/out dated system. My main goal is to filter as much oil out of the blow by as I can..

    I feel like there may be some issues with deleting the f hose, I know it's a thing people do without issue, but without converting to the newer style system I would opt for just upgrading the hose.. because you lose a source of suction(vaccum?) from the pcv when the intake mani sees vacuum. Which may not allow the crack case to vent properly under certain circumstances.. I'm assuming this could create a back up in the flow and possibly create issues with too much pressure in the cylinder heads.

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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings bobkatkat's Avatar
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    Keep in mind that the CCV system with the PCV and PRV in place were designed to meet emissions requirements at stock boost levels. It does not take much oil build up in the PCV and PRV valves or higher boost levels to overwhelm the stock system. Keep in mind that the goal of the system is to stop crank case pressure from building up. Best way to do that is to make the system free flowing and eliminate all the possible failure points i.e. all the valves. If you don't want to kill birds then vent to atmosphere. If you want to keep the system closed then direct into the y-pipe there is more than enough vacuum produced there for all situations. Managing oil vapor/water vapor also becomes more difficult with higher boost levels. More boost more blow-by. All CCs are not equal. Adding a cheap CC to a stock system will just add another possible failure point or do nothing.

    Anyway there is a lot of information on AZ about this if you dig a bit.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    The bird is the wird
    Thing cracks me up every time I see it.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings bobkatkat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    The bird is the wird
    Thing cracks me up every time I see it.
    I am still waiting for my "Dead Bird" tee shirt someone on here promised me. :) May just have to make my own.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobkatkat View Post
    Keep in mind that the CCV system with the PCV and PRV in place were designed to meet emissions requirements at stock boost levels. It does not take much oil build up in the PCV and PRV valves or higher boost levels to overwhelm the stock system. Keep in mind that the goal of the system is to stop crank case pressure from building up. Best way to do that is to make the system free flowing and eliminate all the possible failure points i.e. all the valves. If you don't want to kill birds then vent to atmosphere. If you want to keep the system closed then direct into the y-pipe there is more than enough vacuum produced there for all situations. Managing oil vapor/water vapor also becomes more difficult with higher boost levels. More boost more blow-by. All CCs are not equal. Adding a cheap CC to a stock system will just add another possible failure point or do nothing.

    Anyway there is a lot of information on AZ about this if you dig a bit.
    So basically eliminating both valves and the f hose will be the simplest most free flowing solution? Then route crank and heads to catch can then catch can outlet to y pipe/atmosphere?

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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Also I read about people blowing cam caps after messing with pcv, what did they do wrong?

    The car has a stage one apr tune but I do plan on upgrading turbos when the time comes. I'll try to read up on what the high horse power guys are doing for pcv system.

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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjt671 View Post
    Also I read about people blowing cam caps after messing with pcv, what did they do wrong?

    The car has a stage one apr tune but I do plan on upgrading turbos when the time comes. I'll try to read up on what the high horse power guys are doing for pcv system.

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    They didnt put the check valve on the mani port, or put it on backward?
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings MarcRogers's Avatar
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    Quick catch can q

    I have an AEB block I'm wondering if this will throw a CEL?


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    Last edited by MarcRogers; 02-26-2016 at 06:08 PM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Two Rings MarcRogers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjt671 View Post
    I know this is covered and there are many diys. I'm partly retarded some times.

    Id like to use a catch can in line with the oem pcv system. Would I just disconnect the lower pancake valve hose, run it to the catch can inlet, then re connect the outlet hose to the pancake valve? Is this an effective method?


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    http://www.performancebyie.com/blog/...catch-can-diy/


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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings bobkatkat's Avatar
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    If you remove the mani PVC valve and the Pancake (PRV) you have a free flowing system. When they add in a catch can that freezes or blocks (like a provent 200) then there are issues.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings bobkatkat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    They didnt put the check valve on the mani port, or put it on backward?
    This

    Quote Originally Posted by MarcRogers View Post
    I have an AEB block I'm wondering if this will throw a CEL?


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    I have run just about every CC or CCV system out there and never thrown a CEL, That is sometimes the issue is that there is usually no warning with a poorly planed system before you pop a cam seal.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    They didnt put the check valve on the mani port, or put it on backward?
    Makes sense.... Removed the valve and the pcv saw some positive pressure...

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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Mocked this up this afternoon, should be fine for the time being..

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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    What did you end up doing? CC between air distro and pancake? Did you delete your F hose?


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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vavJETTAw36 View Post
    What did you end up doing? CC between air distro and pancake? Did you delete your F hose?


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    Yeah that's the set up I used.
    Haven't deleted the f hose yet, need to figure out exactly what I wanna do for hoses

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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings BITRBO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcRogers View Post
    What kills me is IE makes like a complete kit (w/ install instructions) for a bunch of different versions of the 1.8T and 2.0T, but NOT the 2.7T.

    Lame.
    '13 C63 AMG -
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  21. #21
    Senior Member Two Rings MarcRogers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BITRBO View Post
    What kills me is IE makes like a complete kit (w/ install instructions) for a bunch of different versions of the 1.8T and 2.0T, but NOT the 2.7T.

    Lame.
    Yea man I don't blame you that is really annoying


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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    A true catch can setup for the 2.7t would be killer... Vendors are you listening HINT-HINT lol. I think if anyone in here has looked inside their intake manifolds they would be surprised by the amount of oil caked up on the runners and the on going issue of oil collecting in the lower intercooler hoses which is primarily coming from the PLV on the y-pipe. Our stock PCV system was just not designed for 20+psi of boost which also greatly increases our crankcase pressures and makes it completely inefficient after that point.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    So I've come to the realization that with the set up I'm using, my can is not catching oil during the majority of the condition that the engine is operating (vacuum)... Noticed this because when I pulled the hoses off while then engine was running, the hose going to the air distributor was sucking, which is where the prv plays its role, Im guessing, limiting the amount of vaccum in the crack case, and directing blow by to the f hose... But then again if the rest of the system is functioning properly, the can is catching oil when the engine is producing the most blow by/ oil, when it's in boost and directing the gases/oil to the y pipe... I'm assuming that's where deleting the f hose comes in... So that there is only one outlet for crank case gases (confused meow)
    Am I wrong at all/crazy?

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  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings bobkatkat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjt671 View Post
    So I've come to the realization that with the set up I'm using, my can is not catching oil during the majority of the condition that the engine is operating (vacuum)... Noticed this because when I pulled the hoses off while then engine was running, the hose going to the air distributor was sucking, which is where the prv plays its role, Im guessing, limiting the amount of vaccum in the crack case, and directing blow by to the f hose... But then again if the rest of the system is functioning properly, the can is catching oil when the engine is producing the most blow by/ oil, when it's in boost and directing the gases/oil to the y pipe... I'm assuming that's where deleting the f hose comes in... So that there is only one outlet for crank case gases (confused meow)
    Am I wrong at all/crazy?

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    Both the F-hose PCV and the PRV valve have to be functioning. 90% of the time one or both are are not. You can't delete the F-hose with out deleting the Pancake PRV. . Blow and suck through them to see if they are functioning. Also that style of Ebay CC will never catch any oil. There is a lot that needs to go on in a air oil separator and an empty can with two inlets in the top will not do it.

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    From reading the self study it seemed like the flow of gases was based on manifold pressure (vac/boost)? My goal was to keep oil out of the pre turbo intake tract.. I wasn't really keen on deleting the f hose because I don't fully understand the reason for limiting crank case pressure, which is what I gather was one of the functions of oem pcv system..
    I understand they changed the design in the next vin split, but I don't like to make changes to oem design without fully understand why the change is better..
    It's a mishimoto catch can but I realize now it isn't the best design and that it should be baffled..

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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    I'll leave it on and see if it ever does catch any oil, and I'll likely address the whole system whenever I have the motor out, or if I start seeing any issues..

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  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings bobkatkat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjt671 View Post
    From reading the self study it seemed like the flow of gases was based on manifold pressure (vac/boost)? My goal was to keep oil out of the pre turbo intake tract.. I wasn't really keen on deleting the f hose because I don't fully understand the reason for limiting crank case pressure, which is what I gather was one of the functions of oem pcv system..
    I understand they changed the design in the next vin split, but I don't like to make changes to oem design without fully understand why the change is better..
    It's a mishimoto catch can but I realize now it isn't the best design and that it should be baffled..

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    You want to have positive crankcase ventilation so contaminants from blow by like fuel, water etc. don't accumulate in the engine oil, and unrelieved crankcase pressure will blow out gaskets and seals, creating oil leaks. If you don not have positive ventilation system will eventually become contaminated with oil sludge. There is enough vacuum in a free flowing system to keep it working. If you want to keep the intake track as clean as possible then vent the catch can to atmosphere or put a venturi in the exhaust to burn it and provide the Vacuum.

    There is little difference in the old style spider hose and the new style other than where the PCV valve is located for the connection to the manifold. They function identically.

    Here is a easy to understand explanation


  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Venting the can to atmosphere should be simple.. Attach a breather to the outlet going to the y pipe, plug y pipe, but then this would require an f hose delete because I'd be deleting pancake valve right?

    Diagram helps. Thanks man

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  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Is the y pipe the vacuum source or is it one of the f hose connections?

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  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    My main concern right meow is if this set up could have a negative/damaging affect on the engine?

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  31. #31
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjt671 View Post
    Is the y pipe the vacuum source or is it one of the f hose connections?

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    They are both vacuum sources under seperate conditions. Intake manifold serves as vacuum at idle and light loads, and y-pipe is vacuum at boost when the check valve closes on the line to the intake mani for obvious reasons.

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Duh, thanks man lol

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