200k maintenance time!?

[Eddie_b5]

I'm at 195,xxx and I want to keep my b5 running strong! What to do?
I have owned the car since it had +/- 140k and it has been running well.. Had little Issues like hoses go as well as small leaks but everything has been going great ( minus busting 2 oil pans ) oops!

I Planning on doing:

Motor:
Timing belt (done at 150k)
Coolant flush (done at 150k)
Oil change (done at 191,xxx)
What else ?

Drivetrain:
Dif service (done at 100k)
Trans fluid (done at 100k)
Clutch 90k (needs to be done
ASAP) What else?

Suspension :
Control arm kit ( done at 95k)
Need badly ^ lol

What else should I look at ?
Brakes will be done soon

Who else has a high mileage b5 ?
A4,s4,rs4 welcome to chime in




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[a4kamila6]

What you need is to get your ass over the bridge. Rich and I can meet you in BK if ifs better.





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[Avant Nate]

Little early for the TB, how about fixing that LCD?

[19birel]

Timing belt should be good until 225k (the service internal is every 75k) You'll have to do a coolant flush when you do that obviously. take care of the water pump and other associated items while in there (If you get an ECS ultimate timing belt kit it will have everything you should replace) Also, you may want to change your snub mount while you're already in service position.

Sounds like you almost due for an oil change

When were you spark plugs last changed?

I think trans and diff fluid is on a 60k interval (someone correct me if I'm wrong) so you're way over due for that, no bigee though, but I would change it

How are your cabin and air intake filters?

If you're doing control arms, check your sway bar end links and tie-rods while you're in there. Best to knock all that out at once if you can.

[Johns]

Lol your cluster looks exactly as mine did at that mileage; useless LCD & only the airbag light. There's a couple members on here that can replace that LCD for you.

Inspect all your mounts as I'm sure they could use a replacing. Check your CV boots for wear as well so you don't have to replace the entire joint later on.

[Eddie_b5]

Little early for the TB, how about fixing that LCD?

Just picked up another cluster for cheap off my friends partout so I just swapped that out haha...


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[Eddie_b5]

Timing belt should be good until 225k (the service internal is every 75k) You'll have to do a coolant flush when you do that obviously. take care of the water pump and other associated items while in there (If you get an ECS ultimate timing belt kit it will have everything you should replace) Also, you may want to change your snub mount while you're already in service position.

Sounds like you almost due for an oil change

When were you spark plugs last changed?

I think trans and diff fluid is on a 60k interval (someone correct me if I'm wrong) so you're way over due for that, no bigee though, but I would change it

How are your cabin and air intake filters?

If you're doing control arms, check your sway bar end links and tie-rods while you're in there. Best to knock all that out at once if you can.

I figured I'd do the tb because by the time I do the maintenance it will be more like 210k by the Time I get all the parts I need as well as the free time! I just did the plugs with the last oil change.. I'll check out all of the suspension components as well at that time. I'll do the trans Service as well when I do my clutch.. So much work not enough time lol


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[Eddie_b5]

Lol your cluster looks exactly as mine did at that mileage; useless LCD & only the airbag light. There's a couple members on here that can replace that LCD for you.

Inspect all your mounts as I'm sure they could use a replacing. Check your CV boots for wear as well so you don't have to replace the entire joint later on.

I know, I just replaced the cluster.. And time to check the mounts to, last done at 100k I believe.. Have to look into the reciepts I have from the PO


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[OverSpun]

Timing belt should be good until 225k (the service internal is every 75k) You'll have to do a coolant flush when you do that obviously. take care of the water pump and other associated items while in there (If you get an ECS ultimate timing belt kit it will have everything you should replace) Also, you may want to change your snub mount while you're already in service position.

Sounds like you almost due for an oil change

When were you spark plugs last changed?

I think trans and diff fluid is on a 60k interval (someone correct me if I'm wrong) so you're way over due for that, no bigee though, but I would change it

How are your cabin and air intake filters?

If you're doing control arms, check your sway bar end links and tie-rods while you're in there. Best to knock all that out at once if you can.

I have to disagree regards to the t-belt service interval... Audi Revised the interval and I believe they recommend every 40k these days since they have snapped in the 60's. Audi was kidding themselves with the original 105k interval. My car's t-belt snapped @ 83k on the previous owner. I'm planning on changing @ 120k.

[BeautifulAudi]

For those of us who can't afford the HD control arm kits, where can we find the best deal on oem-like bushings and all for the front and rear?

[a4kamila6]

I know 034 makes a CA kit for front, with aluminum or steel uprights, apparently they source it from oem manufacturer. kit is about 500 bucks.


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[walky_talky20]

Sounds like you are in for the long haul. B5's forever, am I right!? I am at 275k as of this writing. I basically just fix things as they break at this point.

If you haven't done a fuel pump, and you take long trips, I would consider just putting one in. It is commendable that the pump made it to 200k, and I wouldn't push that luck. At the very least, buy a replacement and keep it in the trunk. That alone will get you back on the road a day or 2 quicker.

I put a set of S4 metal tie rods and 4 upper control arms from FCP Groton (aka FCP Euro). My lowers were factory blowout sale OEM, otherwise I would have used the FCP arms for those, too. I have at least 100k miles on all that stuff and no problems so far. Super cheap, and lifetime warranty, too. They had a group buy going on for a long time here, but I think they may have finally ended it. The coupon code may still work, though: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...s-Available%29

[BeautifulAudi]

That lifetime warranty only applies if they're installed by a shop though.

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[walky_talky20]

^Actually, that is no longer true. From their website:

Q. Are there any limitations on the lifetime replacement?

A. The replacement does not transfer to a new vehicle owner, and it does not cover parts modified to fit applications other than what they were originally intended for.

Q. What is the procedure for a product replacement?

A: If you have a product that needs a warranty replacement, simply contact us and purchase the replacement part. We will ship the new part to you, and when you ship the warranty part back we’ll give you a refund or customer credit after 90 days.

No RMA, no providing an installation receipt. And it even covers wear items like wiper blades, filters, and brakes. They even call out their competitors for requiring professional installation to validate the warranty:

AutohausAZ Parts Warranty
AutohausAZ services manufacturers' published warranty until expiration requiring an RMA (RA) number. Genuine part warranties are only granted with proof of professional installation.

[BeautifulAudi]

Oh my lanta..well I know where I'm buying it from!

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[Eddie_b5]

Test fit my RS4 bumper.. Needs some little touches then I'll install the grills as well as the fog lights


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[Eddie_b5]

Sounds like you are in for the long haul. B5's forever, am I right!? I am at 275k as of this writing. I basically just fix things as they break at this point.

If you haven't done a fuel pump, and you take long trips, I would consider just putting one in. It is commendable that the pump made it to 200k, and I wouldn't push that luck. At the very least, buy a replacement and keep it in the trunk. That alone will get you back on the road a day or 2 quicker.

I put a set of S4 metal tie rods and 4 upper control arms from FCP Groton (aka FCP Euro). My lowers were factory blowout sale OEM, otherwise I would have used the FCP arms for those, too. I have at least 100k miles on all that stuff and no problems so far. Super cheap, and lifetime warranty, too. They had a group buy going on for a long time here, but I think they may have finally ended it. The coupon code may still work, though: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...s-Available%29

B5's forever man! I will keep this car long as I can.. And usually I go as parts break to but it's time to do a little extra! I am going to go with that kit most likely, unless I do the adjustable ones.. And I'll have to take a look at the fuel pump.. Throw up some pics of your b5 man!


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[SN95Audi87]

I'm at 171k. Items that recently just got replaced:

Timing belt service (OEM-Conti) kit @ 171K
Oil Cooler O-Rings
HID bulbs with XB H7's
Upper Control ARMS
OE inner and outer tie rods
Transmission fluid replacement
Brake Fluid flush


Items that need to be replaced:
Lower Control arms
Rear A-arm bushings
New gas cap
Torn Seat Cover
Headliner is starting to droop in the rear
LCD center display
Inner door handle
Shocks & Struts
New overflow coolant tank and hoses
Hoses for steering pump


Note: Its amazing how much info is in my head at all times with this car haha.

[walky_talky20]

B5's forever man! I will keep this car long as I can.. And usually I go as parts break to but it's time to do a little extra! I am going to go with that kit most likely, unless I do the adjustable ones.. And I'll have to take a look at the fuel pump.. Throw up some pics of your b5 man!

I don't think looking at the pump will tell you anything at all. They all look the same, lol. But checking fuel pump health (and predicting it's failure) is possible. You can use an oscilliscope to do this. In the case of both of my fuel pump failures, I could hear the problem a day or 2 before the failure. (I listen to the prime every time - always). The sound got louder, and made a lower tone than normal. On the first pump it actually sounded like there were rocks in it. Bad noises. They should give a nice, happy, "whirrr" when they prime. If they grumble - no good. But the scope will be a more accurate way. That said, if it's original - it will NOT make it to 300k. It just won't.

Here's a pic of my car. This was a few days after I hit a deer with it. It has $700 damage to the front end. Can you see it? lol:

[Eddie_b5]

I don't think looking at the pump will tell you anything at all. They all look the same, lol. But checking fuel pump health (and predicting it's failure) is possible. You can use an oscilliscope to do this. In the case of both of my fuel pump failures, I could hear the problem a day or 2 before the failure. (I listen to the prime every time - always). The sound got louder, and made a lower tone than normal. On the first pump it actually sounded like there were rocks in it. Bad noises. They should give a nice, happy, "whirrr" when they prime. If they grumble - no good. But the scope will be a more accurate way. That said, if it's original - it will NOT make it to 300k. It just won't.

Here's a pic of my car. This was a few days after I hit a deer with it. It has $700 damage to the front end. Can you see it? lol:

My check engine light came on, but it's still there so it will be ok hahahaa! Anyway, (that was a bad joke) but yeah I'm going to order an upgraded Bosch while I'm doing my tune and other performance upgrades lol


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[Eddie_b5]

The car looks beautiful by the way, and yeah I see the Audi emblem has a small scratch on the third ring from the left lol


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[frankkyA4]

My pump finally kicked the bucket at 227k. I have kept up with all maintenance items except for that and replaced almost all wear items. Though I have a question, 710N valve and N75 hasn't been replaced since about 50K, should I replace?, no codes or issues. TIA.

[19birel]

I have to disagree regards to the t-belt service interval... Audi Revised the interval and I believe they recommend every 40k these days since they have snapped in the 60's. Audi was kidding themselves with the original 105k interval. My car's t-belt snapped @ 83k on the previous owner. I'm planning on changing @ 120k.

105k? I've never heard of anyone taking it that long. I was going off of the 75k suggested interval which I believe I read in the owner's manual(not 100% on whether or not it was in the manual). Maybe 75k is the revision...

[Wrath And Tears]

105k was the original, 75k was the revision. I took my wife's 03 1.8t to 125k before doing the timing belt because it still looked brand new, but at 10 years old I felt it was time.

[walky_talky20]

^Lucky. I've seen a 1.8T belt break at 75k and 10 years on a VW. Obviously zero help from VW. Only the Passats were included in the t-belt class action settlement.

Oh, here's a link describing how to predict fuel pump failure with an oscilloscope:

http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/1999/ju...umpFailure.pdf

[SN95Audi87]

^Lucky. I've seen a 1.8T belt break at 75k and 10 years on a VW. Obviously zero help from VW. Only the Passats were included in the t-belt class action settlement.

Oh, here's a link describing how to predict fuel pump failure with an oscilloscope:

http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/1999/ju...umpFailure.pdf

this is neat.

[OverSpun]

105k? I've never heard of anyone taking it that long. I was going off of the 75k suggested interval which I believe I read in the owner's manual(not 100% on whether or not it was in the manual). Maybe 75k is the revision...

Yea, thats because their t-belts likely snapped before 105k. I don't trust the 75k interval revision since I can recall threads of t-belt failures @ 65k.

^Lucky. I've seen a 1.8T belt break at 75k and 10 years on a VW. Obviously zero help from VW. Only the Passats were included in the t-belt class action settlement.

Oh, here's a link describing how to predict fuel pump failure with an oscilloscope:

http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/1999/ju...umpFailure.pdf

Much like my first B5. I sold the car @ ~50k and I told the buyer.... DO the t-belt @ 60k to be safe. He didn't do it and it snapped on the freeway ~75k. That was before the class action suit.
- http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-horrible-days

[a4kamila6]

I bought my b5 in 2011 with 80k on the clock, did all major maintenance right away, at 102k now. Was hoping to reach 140-150k. We'll see.


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[OverSpun]

I bought my b5 in 2011 with 80k on the clock, did all major maintenance right away, at 102k now. Was hoping to reach 140-150k. We'll see.


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Well, you've only put 4k/year on the car since you bought it... Keep in mind that belts can become brittle after time. At this speed, you should change it before 140k. At least inspect it for now.

[B5Riches]

What you need is to get your ass over the bridge. Rich and I can meet you in BK if ifs better.





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Yeah man bring yourself to Queens and we can do a lot. Drive axles and arms, pagid brakes and Zimmerman or brembo rotors.