4.2 timing belt question

[Battle_Tested]

Hi Guys,

I current have a question about my timing belt install. Currently the drive side cam shaft will move 1/8 to 1/4 or so after removing the cam looking bar.

Crank was set to TDC with the crank pin
Cram lock back installed
Tensioners/pulleys removed and belt

At this point when removing the cam locking bar there was no movement on the drive side camshaft.

Today when I pulled the driver side camshaft pulley with a gear pulley and as the pulley popped off the cam shaft also moved clock wise. This was done to get the cam seals done. Cam seals are done and pulley are back on locked with the cam locking bar. But the drive side cam shaft wont stay at TDC after removing the locking bar.

Question is this ok/normal and do I proceed as normal with the TB job or is there anything I should do first. Why is there sprung tension on cam now?

[mr_dave]

There's tension on the cam via the valve springs and cam chain and tensioner underneath the valve cover. As long as you follow the proper procedure when installing the new belt and setting the correct tension you should be good (i.e. don't tighten the cam gears until proper tension is on the belt).

[bpark1210]

You'll be fine as long as you re-attach the cam keys and align the bar back up. I freaked during my TB job when I took the VC off and the tension released on the driver's side a quarter turn. As longs as you got the crank lock pin holding the crank no movement there, you just have to align the cams back to TDC via the cam lock bar. It was easiest for me to lock the bar into the side that rotated then turn the cam lock bar to position on the other cam key.

[Battle_Tested]

bpakr1210

Do you have all the torque specs for the 4.2 timing components?

[bpark1210]

PM what you need I can look for it tonight. My good deed for the day, lucky bastard haha

[Battle_Tested]

PM what you need I can look for it tonight. My good deed for the day, lucky bastard haha

Thank you sir!!

[bpark1210]

Never got a PM for you so I'll post some common sense items you'll need to torque down. These specs are all direct from alldatadiy and the Bentley manual

Timing components
Camshaft Pulley 55 Nm (40 ft. lbs.)
Idler 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.)
Cover For Cylinder Head 10 Nm (7 ft. lbs.)
Outer Ring Of Fan To Radiator 10 Nm (7 ft. lbs.)
Viscous Fan - Using Torque Wrench 1331 And Open End Wrench 3312 37 Nm (27 ft. lbs.)
Viscous Fan - Using Torque Wrench Without Open End Wrench 3312 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.)
Water Pump 10 Nm (7 ft. lbs.)
Thermostat cover 10 Nm (7 ft. lbs.)
Toothed Belt Sprocket To Camshaft 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.)
Toothed Belt Tensioning Roller 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)


Accessory belt components
Belt tensioner mounting bolt 43 Nm (32 ft. lbs)
Vibration damper mounting bolt 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs)



For the cylinder heads
Bearing Cap To Cylinder Head 10 Nm + 90 degrees (7 ft. lbs. + 90 degrees)
Camshaft Adjuster To Cylinder Head 10 Nm + 90 degrees (7 ft. lbs. + 90 degrees)
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Rotor To Camshaft 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Housing To Cylinder Head 10 Nm (7 ft. lbs.)

[Battle_Tested]

Go some time to wrench on the car. Turned the motor a few times. Cam lock bar lines up and crank is at TDC.

Driver side where that cam moved on me while pulling the sprocket makes a cluncky sound. It's only doing at certain part of the rotation. No biding and everything lines up right. Any idea??

[bpark1210]

If you're lined up after each rotation you're timed up.

More details on the clunking noise?

My only guess is if you tensioned down your CCT sometimes it needs oil to recurculate through it to get the tensioner back up. That may be causing some chain slack but again if your cam lock bar and lines up at TDC you're completely fine.

[Battle_Tested]

Everything does line back up after 3-4 crank rotations cam lock bar and crank pin.

I when I went back the clunck noise alters from each side. So appears to be vavle/cam noise.