Atp manifold tool

[ricekikr]

Had to remove my manifold, couldn't get it off with standard tools. It was installed with standard tools, but the head was off the engine. A 1/4 flex socket wont fit. Some have used it but my manifold had barely enough space.

This works with the stock 12mm nuts.

Made this tool and it worked perfectly. Takes 5min to remove the bolts a bit longer to tighten them. Can turn the nuts 45-160deg depending on position. Can get enough torque that it broke a cheap non-oem stud.

1st = un modified offset wrench
2nd = working tool
3rd = bent straight wrench (wont work)*
4th = bent straight wrench (wont work)*

*depends on head casting.

Only the 2nd tool will work. The 3rd and 4th tool is too tall and hits the casting on the head on the on the top inner corner nuts.



A less bend might work better if you still have the downpipe installed. You can also bend it again to make a handle, i used another wrench to turn this wrench

You need the grind the back part flat so it has the teeth exposed and thin out the edge (circled). No need to grind the handle (x), it was mistakenly grounded down, too excited with the grinder. Still didnt break though.

[B5A4coastie]

Great idea, I use an open end wrench, and have to replace the nuts every time due to rounding them out. I tried bending the end like your 3rd tool with little improvement as well. This manifold was clearly only supposed to be put on or off with the head off the block. I hope that I'm at a point where I do not have to remove it again, but who knows.... If I do, I'll try your new setup.

[ricekikr]

I use an open end wrench, and have to replace the nuts every time due to rounding them out.

Yup. This tool still grabbed on the almost rounded 3x used oem nuts.

[MetalMan]

Have you considered using 034 Motorsport's 10mm-head nuts, with a 10mm crow's foot wrench attached to a wobble extension?
https://store.034motorsport.com/8mm-...ench-head.html
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post10555125

That's the norm for installation of the FrankenTurbo manifold these days, perhaps it may help you too.

[Davdraco1]

I switched everything to Allen bolts with no studs. I'm using a Frankenturbo manifold. Then I just used a long Allen with the kinda rounded off tip so I can get at the bolt at an angle. Worked great. I also did this with the motor on the engine stand. Should be able to get to it with the motor in the car though.

[MetalMan]

I switched everything to Allen bolts with no studs. I'm using a Frankenturbo manifold. Then I just used a long Allen with the kinda rounded off tip so I can get at the bolt at an angle. Worked great. I also did this with the motor on the engine stand. Should be able to get to it with the motor in the car though.

Have you removed those bolts since you installed them? Did you put any antiseize on those bolts?

The head itself is aluminum, obviously bolts/studs are steel. In the past I had some issues removing the original studs that weren't installed with antiseize, where they messed up the threads in the head and I had to chase most of the holes with a tap. I'm worried this will be even more likely to happen when using bolts in place of studs.

[redline380]

I dont think a bolt would fit into an ATP manifold in some of the holes. It is simply too obsturcted

[Davdraco1]

I chased all the threads mulitiple times when installing. It sucked how soft the head is and how quickly it crossed. I eventually got all of the bolts through. I have not taken any of the bolts out as I just got the car running today and I hope I never have to. One motor and trans replacement is enough for me. And isn't the ATP and frankenturbo manifolds basically the same?

[biketsai]

Gah I hated dealing with this. This was my go-to that worked for the most part. 1/4" swivel 12mm socket. It is thin and low profile.

[ricekikr]

Have you considered using 034 Motorsport's 10mm-head nuts, with a 10mm crow's foot wrench attached to a wobble extension?
[url]https://store.034motorsport.com/8mm-copper-plated-steel-lock-nut-m10-wrench-head.html

First time i saw 10mm. Thanks for the link. I only thought 11mm Vw classic was available.

Crows foot wouldn't work with my head. There are big castings on the head on cylinder 1 and 4. Using craftsman crows foot, a different thinner type would probably work.

Gah I hated dealing with this. This was my go-to that worked for the most part. 1/4" swivel 12mm socket. It is thin and low profile.]

Lol me also.

I forgot who mentioned it in an old thread, but those only fit certain manifolds (inconsistent castings). It fit his first manifold but not his 2nd. But i guess one could grind down one side to fit.

[VanCityA4Q]

I Heli-coiled all my exhaust stud holes with stainless inserts, I also use Allen bolts and have taken them off many times with no issue, high temp antiseize is also applied every time as well as new stainless high collar lock washers. It's the only way you can actually torque the manifold down properly. Your wrench is a great idea for removal but you still can't torque the nuts with it ;)