Cam adjuster removal question

[bmwpower603]

I wanted to know if the mechanical adjuster needs be put in the same exact position. Should I mark the the position?

Injector connector didn't want to come with the harness. As you can see from the picture lol

Here's some pics of the progress. Rear coolant pipe is off. Timing covers are next.

Any hint/suggestions?







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[xhackerekx]

u need timing tools for did this .

[bmwpower603]

u need timing tools for did this .

Yes. I have the full schuaben tool kit from ecs tuning. But didn't know of the slots on outside of adjuster had to line up on both sides. ..

[JimmyBones]

The mechanical camshaft adjuster is not timed. It can be tightened in any position with the chain over it. However the inner portion of the of the mechanical camshaft adjuster needs to be turned so that the pin drops inside and locks the inside portion to the outside portion of the mechanical camshaft adjuster before tightening the big camshaft bolts. You do need to use the dog bone special tool to get the camshaft sensor wheel lined up correctly.

That sucks about the injector harness connector.

[xhackerekx]

u have Bentley manual ?

[bmwpower603]

The mechanical camshaft adjuster is not timed. It can be tightened in any position with the chain over it. However the inner portion of the of the mechanical camshaft adjuster needs to be turned so that the pin drops inside and locks the inside portion to the outside portion of the mechanical camshaft adjuster before tightening the big camshaft bolts. You do need to use the dog bone special tool to get the camshaft sensor wheel lined up correctly.

That sucks about the injector harness connector.

Ok. The small locking pin is what your referring to?

And as for the harness connector . That shouldn't be an issue going forward right? Just need to re wire the connector?

Thank you for the help. Very much appreciated.

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[JimmyBones]

Yeah the pin inside the mechanical camshaft adjuster. Jason@JHM goes over the parts and how to do the mechanical camshaft adjuster rebuild in a video if you or your mechanic isn't sure about things.

Replace the connector. I don't like to break stuff because it is an extra step to deal with.

No problem.

[bmwpower603]

Yeah the pin inside the mechanical camshaft adjuster. Jason@JHM goes over the parts and how to do the mechanical camshaft adjuster rebuild in a video if you or your mechanic isn't sure about things.

Replace the connector. I don't like to break stuff because it is an extra step to deal with.

No problem.

The connector is fine. Just the wire got pulled from it, and the terminal piece removed from one of the wires..

I did look into a new connector. But it doesn't come with the terminals.. So no point in getting a new one..

Hope this nightmare is over soon! !!

[bmwpower603]

The mechanical camshaft adjuster is not timed. It can be tightened in any position with the chain over it. However the inner portion of the of the mechanical camshaft adjuster needs to be turned so that the pin drops inside and locks the inside portion to the outside portion of the mechanical camshaft adjuster before tightening the big camshaft bolts. You do need to use the dog bone special tool to get the camshaft sensor wheel lined up correctly.

That sucks about the injector harness connector.

Jimmy I wanted to ask you. Do you know the best way to remove the adjusters? Once everything is locked in time. Do I just loosen the adjuster right off? And just try and muscle it back on the same way. (I'll probably be fighting the chains by doing that )

Or does a tensioner need to be remove and replaced, in order to loosen these things off?

[icanfly]

Whatever you do after pulling the mechanical adjuster off, make sure that where it seats on the electronic adjuster is pushed in all the way. Depending on angle and fitment during the removal, it can cause the mount to slide out of the electronic adjuster...

Not doing this can put a shearing force on the electronic adjuster that will break the tiny metal ring that holds it all together. It's a thousand dollar mistake... Ask me how I know. Better yet, don't. Just trust me.

It's the little guy with five holes in this picture: http://static.nanodatex.com/media/77...8b5b82fb9a.jpg

Just take a second, push it in so its seated properly.

Good luck.

[JimmyBones]

Jimmy I wanted to ask you. Do you know the best way to remove the adjusters? Once everything is locked in time. Do I just loosen the adjuster right off? And just try and muscle it back on the same way. (I'll probably be fighting the chains by doing that )

Or does a tensioner need to be remove and replaced, in order to loosen these things off?

I put the timing tools in (camshaft bars and crank pin), then I put 2 locking vice grips with the jaws on a non-contact portion of the camshaft and with the back of the handle against the cylinder head in such a way to prevent the camshaft from moving, and then I crack the big bolt loose. Once the big bolt is loose then I push the tensioner in so that I can insert the tensioner pin (a strong rivet like 1/2" or the next size under 1/2" would work too) in the eyelet to hold the tensioner tight. Next I fully loosen the big camshaft bolt and take the mechanical camshaft adjuster, camshaft sensor wheel, and the big bolt out at the same time. As icanfly said the mechanical adjuster does need to set flush against the electrical adjuster or else things will go bad. So for reinstall get the mechanical adjuster seated flush on the electrical adjuster with the chain over the teeth, then put the camshaft sensor wheel on, and loosely thread big camshaft bolt through into the camshaft until it stops by hand. Once the mechanical adjuster, sensor wheel, and bolt are back in then you can pull the tensioner pin to follow the procedure for tightening the big camshaft bolts but keep the camshaft bars and vice grips on the entire time until the bolts are tight. Once the bolts are tight then take the timing tools and vice grips off and rotate the engine to double check the base timing.

[icanfly]

I really wish someone had told me about the electronic adjuster being seated before I started. I'll be posting more about what I learned from my motor pull soon enough but I had to share with anyone taking a swing at this on their own.

[bmwpower603]

I really wish someone had told me about the electronic adjuster being seated before I started. I'll be posting more about what I learned from my motor pull soon enough but I had to share with anyone taking a swing at this on their own.

I appreciate it! My friend who is a BMW master tech is the one doing it. I'm just helping to research it. And maybe I'll install the valley pan gasket and oil check valves myself. . Lol..I just want her back up and running!!!

[bmwpower603]

Yeah the pin inside the mechanical camshaft adjuster. Jason@JHM goes over the parts and how to do the mechanical camshaft adjuster rebuild in a video if you or your mechanic isn't sure about things.

Replace the connector. I don't like to break stuff because it is an extra step to deal with.

No problem.

okay!! so my mechanic attempted to put my s4 in TDC today. And he said its out of time. Which tells me the car skipped timing, and probably has a broken guide. He said he would do the engine pull for $1,000.00.

My other option is bring it to a reputable shop that has done a bunch of these, and have them do it. I talked to them, and they said unless I buy a kit that includes OEM adjusters, and new Electronic adjusters. They will NOT do it. For liability reasons... I already ordered the JHM Cam adjuster sprockets. So I could perform the rebuilt. This particular shop said its better to buy new OEM ones. I thought the the JHM ones are made better, and last longer... Correct me if im wrong please!

Anyways. That place quoted me $2500 labor to do everything. Including head gaskets, valve stem seals, and cleaning the heads.. (timing chain guides also of course) But they want me to spend 4k on parts alone.. 90 days warranty...

I just wanted people opinion.


thank you

[924Carrera]

The idea is that the new OEM ones are just the same as the old, and just as likely to fail again. The JHM part is purported to have a stronger design, but otherwise provides no performance increase. It is, however, cheaper.

[bmwpower603]

The idea is that the new OEM ones are just the same as the old, and just as likely to fail again. The JHM part is purported to have a stronger design, but otherwise provides no performance increase. It is, however, cheaper.

Why is this shop refusing to just do a rebuild on them?

[924Carrera]

Why is this shop refusing to just do a rebuild on them?

It's a pretty common policy for shops to not allow customer-supplied parts. Some will do it but will void any kind of labor warranty. Others, like the one in your case, will just not do it. To them, JHM is probably just another unknown name that may as well be "JC Whitney." I'd opt for either a different shop or tackling it yourself.

[bmwpower603]

It's a pretty common policy for shops to not allow customer-supplied parts. Some will do it but will void any kind of labor warranty. Others, like the one in your case, will just not do it. To them, JHM is probably just another unknown name that may as well be "JC Whitney." I'd opt for either a different shop or tackling it yourself.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_RS...ails/ES277852/

Does anyone know if this is the Guide that is in the JHM timing chain kit? It is off of the B7 RS4 i believe.

[evildsmr]

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_RS...ails/ES277852/

Does anyone know if this is the Guide that is in the JHM timing chain kit? It is off of the B7 RS4 i believe.

I can confirm this is the part included.

[bmwpower603]

I can confirm this is the part included.

Thank you for confirming that. ECS tuning has a better deal on the kit with chains included. I'm going to just order that guide separate. Hopefully this engine pull goes well!!

[eddiedellz]

Is the mechanical cam adjuster bolt reverse thred?

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[jakeoboy67]

Is the mechanical cam adjuster bolt reverse thred?

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nope , righty tighty , lefty loosey

[bmwpower603]

Current engine pull progress.

The more that gets done. The more I want to replace preventive items!!!

Engine should be out tomorrow!









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[jakeoboy67]

Current engine pull progress.

The more that gets done. The more I want to replace preventive items!!!

Engine should be out tomorrow!






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are your jackstands under your subframe ?
if so, I'd suggest making some soft pads, and putting them under your pinch welds, you'll have to unbolt/lower the subframe abit to make the engine removal way easier

[bmwpower603]

are your jackstands under your subframe ?
if so, I'd suggest making some soft pads, and putting them under your pinch welds, you'll have to unbolt/lower the subframe abit to make the engine removal way easier

Did it with subframe in.

Here's some pics.

Am I able to replace the oil cooler? JUST the gasket? It looks like that is leaking.

Looks like one of the radiators has been replaced with OEM audi parts. Looks like I have no choice but to get that also!! :O

That's a good sign.







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