High output alternator or something else?

[tmaclax013]

So I put a decent powered sound system in my car. 1200W RMS Sub amp to two 12" subs and a 400W RMS 4 channel amp to all my doors. So nothing crazy in terms of power but about 1600 watts RMS at most given times.

All my wiring and setup is proper, meaning 2 gauge wire from my battery terminal to the 30 farad capacitor and then 2 guage from that to both amps so I dont think my problem is in the setup.

My issue is that when i turn the volume up for the system(remote bass control that turns the gain up and the overall system volume from the head unit) the bass hits very well and doesnt seem to cut out or have any issues but my door speakers just completely stop outputting audio. Like my subs are going crazy but my door speakers arent doing anything at all.

My question is where do you guys think my problem is. Considering all my wiring is up to spec im thinking it might be my tiny 90 amp factory alternator but Id like to hear opinions from you guys

[Nollywood]

I am positive the alternator isn't the issue. I would be looking at your amplifier.

Out of interest, are B5 S4 alternators 90 amp units? My 2000 B5 2.8 30V was 120.

[Bordom]

I am positive the alternator isn't the issue. I would be looking at your amplifier.

Out of interest, are B5 S4 alternators 90 amp units? My 2000 B5 2.8 30V was 120.

120amp like the 2.8

Everything graciously mispelled by Android

[tmaclax013]

I actually have a 1.8t in my automobile at the moment so i believe it would be 90 amp, what would be the issue with the amp theyre bothbrand new straight from kicker?

[Nizmo]

Install a Capacitor to the amp circuit. It will at the very least keep the headlights from dimming....

[Nollywood]

I actually have a 1.8t in my automobile at the moment so i believe it would be 90 amp, what would be the issue with the amp theyre bothbrand new straight from kicker?

My apologies for digressing here. Is your car a B5 A4 1.8T, or a B5 S4 with a 1.8T installed?? Or are you looking to swap a 2.7T into an A4?

[Racin2redline]

largest alternator you can run with the 1.8T is a 120amp. stock is prob 90amp

2.7T you can get a slightly larger 140amp. don't believe it would fit the 1.8T ?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

[tmaclax013]

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_385/Audi-A4.htm 200 amp alternator for the 1.8t

And for nollywood its currently a 1.8t with intentions of a 4.2 or vr swap but thats for a different thread

[tmaclax013]

My thoughts are that the gain on the 4 channel amp is set low as it is and the door speakers only cut out when the bass comes in heavy so Im thinking it has to be a power issue, considering i already have a huge capacitor feeding the amps and the proper wiring

[Racin2redline]

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_385/Audi-A4.htm 200 amp alternator for the 1.8t

And for nollywood its currently a 1.8t with intentions of a 4.2 or vr swap but thats for a different thread

if your going to do that I'd upgrade the harness wire from the alternator to the battery and put an inline fuse to the panel.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

[Zba]

B5 S4 section would rather quabble about what constitutes an S4 and other serious shit.
We ain't got no time to help you with your 1.8T's sound system woes.

[Jism]

You know that certain devices in your car can consume serious amps in order to maintain stability in your car? For example, the ABS unit takes a 30A in order to function best. Why would you put such an audiosetup in your car, and presumable drive around with it and risk power problems to components in your car?

I'm sure you woud'nt drive your car with full power going on but i'm just saying. Your better off engineer it the right way instead of going for a gamble.

[zillarob]

But the factory ABS sounds like crap, Id much rather listen a nice stereo system

[tmaclax013]

You know that certain devices in your car can consume serious amps in order to maintain stability in your car? For example, the ABS unit takes a 30A in order to function best. Why would you put such an audiosetup in your car, and presumable drive around with it and risk power problems to components in your car?

I'm sure you woud'nt drive your car with full power going on but i'm just saying. Your better off engineer it the right way instead of going for a gamble.

So what exactly would be considered "engineering it the right way"?

[Speed4Avant]

My thoughts are that the gain on the 4 channel amp is set low as it is and the door speakers only cut out when the bass comes in heavy so Im thinking it has to be a power issue, considering i already have a huge capacitor feeding the amps and the proper wiring

capacitors don't do shit, it's just a bandaid on a bigger problem. Check your wiring. I'm running a 600w rms 4 channel amp and a 600w rms mono amp for my sub in my 2.7. No capacitor and no problems.

[audacity]

you can get whatever you want. look for a local place that will rebuild starters and alternators, bring them whatever you have on the car and ask for it to be a higher output.

we've done this locally with many of out diesel semis, to run more lights without killing the electrical system.

[tmaclax013]

Other thing is that Im getting headlight dimming when the subs are loud, even with a capacitor, thats what leads me to believe its a power production issue

[Mille Bornes]

I'm not an audio expert by any means but have you considered putting a second battery in your trunk?

Back in the day I had a T15001-bd powering two T1 12's and my lights would practically shut off when the bass would hit and I also had issues with the amp's thermal protection constantly shutting it off.

Once I put a second battery in the trunk all was well. I was also advised that capacitors don't do much except look cool.

[Chris_s1]

Caps are worthless, waste of money. You could upgrade alternator or battery and I'm sure it wouldn't hurt. What brand door speakers and amps do you have? I've had a sound system on every car I've owned and never used a high output alternator, nor have I used a cap. How positive are you that it isn't a wiring problem?

Clarify for me... you've got an a4 you're looking to swap a 4.2 into or you've got an S4 you swapped a 1.8t into??

[tmaclax013]

6.5" Kicker KS component speakers in all 4 doors
2 12" Kicker Comp RT(Shallow mount) Subwoofers
Kicker CS 1200w Monoblock Amp
Kicker KX400.4 4 channel Amp

Pretty confident that my wiring from the battery isnt the issue. Its pretty much 2 Gauge wire from the battery all the way to the amps.

And for everybody whose asking its currently a 1.8t A4 with plans of a 4.2 swap most likely

[audacity]

Caps are worthless, waste of money. You could upgrade alternator or battery and I'm sure it wouldn't hurt. What brand door speakers and amps do you have? I've had a sound system on every car I've owned and never used a high output alternator, nor have I used a cap. How positive are you that it isn't a wiring problem?

Clarify for me... you've got an a4 you're looking to swap a 4.2 into or you've got an S4 you swapped a 1.8t into??

my 1.8t used to dim when my subs hit hard it was a 2000w amp. but the 1.8 is small so any real extra power draw it will notice.

[tmaclax013]

my 1.8t used to dim when my subs hit hard it was a 2000w amp. but the 1.8 is small so any real extra power draw it will notice.

Well thats why I am thinkig it might be the alternator. Because if I have headlight dim it means there isn't enough current to constantly feed the cars electronic draws. So my door speakers cutting out is a result of lack of current

[Jism]

So what exactly would be considered "engineering it the right way"?

Larger alternator, larger battery. A capacitor is only there to take away any fluctuations in voltage. For example, if you would turn on your set instant at loud volume, it would snoop the voltage down from 13.8v to 11v for a second. A capacitor would 'solve' that issue. It's not solving an amp issue.

I'm sure it woud'nt cause problems in this way but i woud'nt put things in a gamble either.

[tmaclax013]

Well my general question in this thread was whether or not i need a higher powered alternator, and some people are saying yes and some people are saying no, so I'm trying to figure out what exactly constitutes being "engineered properly"

[landfill]

Sometime the speakers will shut off
when there is too many watts bring
fed to them then they could handle.
Check what your door speaker are rated
at RMS wise and then check your amp.
Also how they were wired bridged or not
4 ohm to 2 ohm ETC.

[Jism]

Well my general question in this thread was whether or not i need a higher powered alternator, and some people are saying yes and some people are saying no, so I'm trying to figure out what exactly constitutes being "engineered properly"

Get a higher alternator, or second battery for the trunk. That would basicly solve your issue. Cheapest way is a second battery.

[oppositelock]

If the 1200W sub amp is playing loud and clean, you've got enough current coming from the alternator. I'd be looking at the power feed to the 4 channel amp and whether that amp's protection circuit is kicking in at high volume.