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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings Ray1031's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 01 2015
    AZ Member #
    363852
    Location
    San Antonio, TX

    Help with Engine mount

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    I decided to replace the snub and engine mounts today, well I was able to get the snub mount and driver's side mount replaced but I couldn't get the passenger's side off, basically because of the tightness of the space I couldn't get the top nut off. I purchased a set of stubby wrenches, tried a crow wrench to no avail. After 3 freaking hours I gave up and put everything back together.

    To those of you who have successfully done this please give me some ideas pointers.



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    Last edited by Ray1031; 02-11-2016 at 08:33 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings james12lucy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 04 2015
    AZ Member #
    340494
    My Garage
    North America's only B7 Chump Car. 2006 2.0T A4, fully gutted, custom Loose Stones Racing Roll Cage,
    Location
    Toronto Ontario

    Stubby ratchet wrench, liberal amounts of PB Blaster, and some time from underneath. You might be able to get on it from the top if you remove the airbox and heatshield.

    If that doesn't work, just buy another nut and grind it off...
    B7 Avant, 6MT, Quattro - Brilliant Black: JHM 93 Octane Stage 2 tune, APR HPFP, S3 Injectors, JHM Test Pipe, Stasis Catback, R8 coils, 034 TIP, Custom CIA, 18" VMR 710, Podi Digital Boost Gauge, RS4 rear sway bar, RS4 grill, Eurojet Billet VC, 42DD catch can, Ohlins SL Coilovers w/ Hyperco springs, OEM Bi-Xenon retrofit, GFB DV+, Brembo 18z.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Schweini's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 12 2011
    AZ Member #
    81157
    My Garage
    2011 GTI mk6 DSG
    Location
    Hamilton Ontario

    The airbox being out of there definitely helps a ton

    You'll need a stubby 13mm open wrench. I literally sat there forever doing 1/4 turns on that nut. Wd-40 it to ease it along.

    My fat hand looked like a latex glove after someone blows in it, afterwards. Its painful but doable.

    PS: I attacked it from above, and I also used a block of wood and lifted the engine from the oil pan. I raised it just a little bit (1/2") to get some extra clearance and the tension off
    2008 A4 S-line 2.0T
    JHM Stage 2


  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 24 2015
    AZ Member #
    363505
    Location
    Perth, WA

    As per other thread, they aren't tight. Just use a stubby, ratchet ringy. I ended up however grinding it off with a dremel. Makes it much quicker. Need another 10mm (i think) nut to replace it with.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings konarider94's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2011
    AZ Member #
    85837
    My Garage
    14 EBR 1190SX
    Location
    kalamazoo, MI

    Take the airbox out and bend the heat shield out of the way under the turbo to get to the top nut. The heat shield are pretty flexible. You can push it back into place after.

    I think I also took off the lower nut and snub mount first and then jacked up the engine to get a little more room. Its been a while so details are fuzzy.
    2018 A5 S-Line Manual

  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings krewbrew's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 26 2014
    AZ Member #
    196339
    My Garage
    2013 Touareg V6
    Location
    Westchester County NY

    Quote Originally Posted by konarider94 View Post
    Take the airbox out and bend the heat shield out of the way under the turbo to get to the top nut. The heat shield are pretty flexible. You can push it back into place after.

    I think I also took off the lower nut and snub mount first and then jacked up the engine to get a little more room. Its been a while so details are fuzzy.
    I did all of that as well. In the end I accessed it from under the car though, not from up top. I ended up cutting off the end off of a 13mm ratchet wrench to make it shorter and then hitting it with a hammer and block of wood to break the nut free. I did not use this Stubby Flex-Head Combination Ratcheting Wrench http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-Stu.../dp/B000HBAI5E, which is reportedly the right tool for the job. I probably would have been happier if I did.
    Kevin
    2015 A7

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 11 2015
    AZ Member #
    341919
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA

    Yes i found it easier to attack from under the car as well but it's definitely one of those where you have to orient your body and arms to get access to the top nut.
    | 07 Daytona Gray RS4 - SOLD |

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings Ray1031's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 01 2015
    AZ Member #
    363852
    Location
    San Antonio, TX

    Help with Engine mount

    Thanks for all the advice, got it done in 1 hr. As I tell my wife where there's a will there's a way.


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    Last edited by Ray1031; 02-12-2016 at 11:40 AM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings Gotpsi2008's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 24 2015
    AZ Member #
    322300
    My Garage
    YFZ 450, Beer Fridge
    Location
    Sebago, Maine

    I used a 13mm ratcheting end wrench with a swivel head and dropped the mount from underneath, wasn't bad, granted I also did the drivers side, snub, timing belt, water pump, turbo hoses, and trans mount all at the same time
    2008 A4 S-Line Grille 2.0T 6MT Quattro | JHM Stage 2 93 | Autotech HPFP Internals | JHM 3" TP | OBX 2.5" DP | JHM LWFW | RS4 Clutch Pressure Plate Combo | 034 Motor Mounts | 034 Snub | 034 Density Trans Mount | Red Top Coils | AFE Pro Dry S | CTS Silicon Turbo Hoses | ECS Intake Boot | P3Cars Boost Gauge | BSH PCV Revamp | EBC Reds | Ziza

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