Need help with some Tuning Info, Stage 1+ setup.

[jesse500]

Hey all,

So my 04 USP (1.8T 6MT). when I bought it, I did not know it had a tune on it. Once I re-did the coils/plugs and did some maintenance, I noticed the car is noticeably quicker than my stock A4 1.8T was. I do not have a Boost gauge, so I cannot confirm what PSI it is running, but I know for a fact it is tuned. 02 sensors are also turned off.

I plan on getting it re-tuned, since I am adding a few couple mods, and want some CEL codes removed, and this way I know where the tune is from. But is there anyway to know what kind of tune my ECU currently has? No stickers or anything on the ECU itself in the car. Can VCDS pull anything up?

Lastly, I am looking for a Stage 1+ setup. I have the stock K03, but I do have larger injectors (410cc). I know many people run the TT 386cc's with stock K03, to get all that can be given from a stock K03, as I guess the fuelling cuts out up top with stock 1.8T injectors.

Basically car as follow will be 3" test pipe, stock downpipe, stock resonator delete, and two magnaflow 4" mufflers. Forge 008, stock intercooler, BKR7E's, Stock intake/exhaust manifolds.
What kind of HP gain can be had with K03 from stock 1.8T injectors to 410cc injectors? So far plan is IMMO delete, keeping rear 02 sensor off, P0441 code removed.

Greg @ SSP will be the one doing the tuning.

Thanks in Advance.

[jesse500]

Anyone?

[old guy]

Somewhere in the neighborhood of 210 to 215 horsepower.

[customa4]

Only way to find out the tune is to start calling tuners around the area you bought the car and see if they registered the VIN. You can also go on APR's website and read the instructions on how to do the "map switching" and see if your car reacts. My guess is it's not APR because their tune doesn't call for those injectors. I don't see why you would do an IMMO defeat. Only time anyone does that, that I know of, is when using an ECU from a different car. In your case you're using your ECU so there's no reason to defeat the IMMO unless you're just trying to make the car easier to steal.

[jesse500]

Somewhere in the neighborhood of 210 to 215 horsepower.

With the 410's? On Unitronic's site (A local tuner for me) Their Stage 1 is 205 HP, 1+ is 215HP, and Stage 2 (DV, IC, 386cc's, 3" DP) is 225HP.

Shouldn't I be able to bump into the 220ish HP range?

and on another note (unrelated) What Bluetooth adapter do you use on your car? I'd love to get the BT interface, and get the torque App. Does the app display boost levels?

Also, do you know what to re-gap to when switching to 2.0 red top coils? I just threw in some BKR7E's. If I will be running a Stage 1+/Stage 2 Tune, will that play a role in plug choice/gap?

[jesse500]

Only way to find out the tune is to start calling tuners around the area you bought the car and see if they registered the VIN. You can also go on APR's website and read the instructions on how to do the "map switching" and see if your car reacts. My guess is it's not APR because their tune doesn't call for those injectors. I don't see why you would do an IMMO defeat. Only time anyone does that, that I know of, is when using an ECU from a different car. In your case you're using your ECU so there's no reason to defeat the IMMO unless you're just trying to make the car easier to steal.

Sorry, I worded it a bit wrong I guess. Right now, car has stock injectors, I have the 410cc Bosch's on the shelf, ready to install. And I may remove my ECU, and keep it, as it is tuned, and I have a spare ECU I can put in my car, and get an IMMO defeated tune, so I can run the ECU out of my parts car.

[Seerlah]

Gains are so marginal, overall health of your engine would have more of a determining factor as far as hp gains are concerned.

[bigblue]

You arent gonna get shit from just a tune. my 05 ultrasport had every bolt on and ko4 with 386 and you dont even get 215whp. heavy awd car

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[old guy]

With the 410's? On Unitronic's site (A local tuner for me) Their Stage 1 is 205 HP, 1+ is 215HP, and Stage 2 (DV, IC, 386cc's, 3" DP) is 225HP.

Shouldn't I be able to bump into the 220ish HP range?

As Mitch pointed out the gains can depend a lot upon the condition of your engine. For reference I was running a fairly aggressive GIAC 1+ (big injector) file. I had the TT386 injectors, Forge TIP, Baileys DV, and a TyrolSport SMIC. Typically the highest MAF readings I saw were around 170 g\s. A rule of thumb is that g\s divided by .8 = CHP. So 170/.8 = 212 CHP. I really don't think a 3" TP is going to add another 10 to 15 hp with a K03.

and on another note (unrelated) What Bluetooth adapter do you use on your car? I'd love to get the BT interface, and get the torque App. Does the app display boost levels?

I am using a ELM327 BT adapter. Yes you can read boost with the TorquePro but it doesn't seem to track very well with my boost gauge. It can be used to monitor changes in the boost but not so good for actual boost.

Also, do you know what to re-gap to when switching to 2.0 red top coils? I just threw in some BKR7E's. If I will be running a Stage 1+/Stage 2 Tune, will that play a role in plug choice/gap?

I have been running BKR7E-IX plugs gapped to .032 for both my GIAC 1+ as well as the F21L set up with no issues. Some guys have had success going with a much larger gap with the Red tops. Others have experienced misfires at full boost and have reduced back to .032. My recommendation is just go with .032.

[old guy]

Sorry to go off topic but question to Bigblue. How do you like the Powergasket? Worth the effort to install?

[bigblue]

It wasnt really much effort. It defintelty helped with keeping IAT down an the manifold was cool to the touch most of the time but I also added apikol sidemount as well that helped. Just be careful around the thermostat, i touched it lightly an with only 80k miles on the car an it was only lkke 6 year old it just snapped in half. $200 lesson learned

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[old guy]

It wasnt really much effort. It defintelty helped with keeping IAT down an the manifold was cool to the touch most of the time but I also added apikol sidemount as well that helped. Just be careful around the thermostat, i touched it lightly an with only 80k miles on the car an it was only lkke 6 year old it just snapped in half. $200 lesson learned

Thanks for the input. I'll add it to my Spring Time playlist.

[texasboy21]

With the 410's? On Unitronic's site (A local tuner for me) Their Stage 1 is 205 HP, 1+ is 215HP, and Stage 2 (DV, IC, 386cc's, 3" DP) is 225HP.

Shouldn't I be able to bump into the 220ish HP range?

and on another note (unrelated) What Bluetooth adapter do you use on your car? I'd love to get the BT interface, and get the torque App. Does the app display boost levels?

Also, do you know what to re-gap to when switching to 2.0 red top coils? I just threw in some BKR7E's. If I will be running a Stage 1+/Stage 2 Tune, will that play a role in plug choice/gap?

The tuners quote inflated crank HP figures to help sell their tunes. A 'big injector' car with supporting mods (TIP, HFC/testpipe, downpipe, FMIC/upgraded SMIC, DV, etc.) is good for about 150-160 HP to the wheels. Should be good for a mid 14s pass on the quarter mile, trapping in the low 90s.

Our cars are SLOW, even when modded, but they are great to drive.

[bigblue]

The tuners quote inflated crank HP figures to help sell their tunes. A 'big injector' car with supporting mods (TIP, HFC/testpipe, downpipe, FMIC/upgraded SMIC, DV, etc.) is good for about 150-160 HP to the wheels. Should be good for a mid 14s pass on the quarter mile, trapping in the low 90s.

Our cars are SLOW, even when modded, but they are great to drive.

I agree with this 100%

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[jesse500]

You arent gonna get shit from just a tune. my 05 ultrasport had every bolt on and ko4 with 386 and you dont even get 215whp. heavy awd car

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My car now is tuned, and is so much more fun to drive than my buddies stock 1.8T.

[jesse500]

I agree with this 100%

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I agree definetly that they are fun to drive! I love mine. Just looking for the most power I can get, since I have the injectors and parts, and need to get it tuned anways

- - - Updated - - -

The tuners quote inflated crank HP figures to help sell their tunes. A 'big injector' car with supporting mods (TIP, HFC/testpipe, downpipe, FMIC/upgraded SMIC, DV, etc.) is good for about 150-160 HP to the wheels. Should be good for a mid 14s pass on the quarter mile, trapping in the low 90s.

Our cars are SLOW, even when modded, but they are great to drive.

Mid 14's is still pretty friggin good in my books. my previous vehicle was a big lifted truck, so even a tuned A4 is quick enough to me lol

[jesse500]

As Mitch pointed out the gains can depend a lot upon the condition of your engine. For reference I was running a fairly aggressive GIAC 1+ (big injector) file. I had the TT386 injectors, Forge TIP, Baileys DV, and a TyrolSport SMIC. Typically the highest MAF readings I saw were around 170 g\s. A rule of thumb is that g\s divided by .8 = CHP. So 170/.8 = 212 CHP. I really don't think a 3" TP is going to add another 10 to 15 hp with a K03.

I am using a ELM327 BT adapter. Yes you can read boost with the TorquePro but it doesn't seem to track very well with my boost gauge. It can be used to monitor changes in the boost but not so good for actual boost.



I have been running BKR7E-IX plugs gapped to .032 for both my GIAC 1+ as well as the F21L set up with no issues. Some guys have had success going with a much larger gap with the Red tops. Others have experienced misfires at full boost and have reduced back to .032. My recommendation is just go with .032.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-v1-5-...402852&vxp=mtr

This one do the trick? And thanks for the info. 3" TP, and larger exhaust, no resonators, free flow mufflers, will help a little. I'd be pleased at 220chp.

[old guy]

That looks exactly like mine except I think I paid around $18 for it:(

[rollerton]

You can get a smaller/ more compact ELM off amazon now...same $12 or so as usual. But...smallerish.

[old guy]

You can get a smaller/ more compact ELM off amazon now...same $12 or so as usual. But...smallerish.

Yep. I plan on picking up a mini ELM. They weren't available when I purchased mine. Or I just didn't see them.

[diagnosticator]

Many owners say the 1.8T is a slow setup. Just remember our Audis are not intended to be capable of blistering acceleration from a stop or from low speeds. Our Audis are designed and built to be secure and comfortable on the unlimited Autobahn. That means our cars are able to cruise at 100+ mph without being a handful.

[rollerton]

Our Audis are designed and built to be secure and comfortable on the unlimited Autobahn. That means our cars are able to cruise at 100+ mph without being a handful.

Wanna know a thing? This 1.8 USP I bought last weekend does the EXACT same 2900 RPM @ 80mph on the highway as my old V8 with a 6 speed.
Exactly the same. Flat even highway with no wind, verified speed by GPS too.
I was surprised. And passing even above 80mph didn't make it work too hard, it's not the same muscle as the 4.2, but it's no slouch even 100% stock.

[texasboy21]

Mid 14's is still pretty friggin good in my books. my previous vehicle was a big lifted truck, so even a tuned A4 is quick enough to me lol

Also consider with a stock tune and injectors they run 17s+. The larger injectors and tuning make it feel like a different car, its just not as quick as the current cars (direct injection, larger more efficient turbos, etc.).

[Seerlah]

Many owners say the 1.8T is a slow setup. Just remember our Audis are not intended to be capable of blistering acceleration from a stop or from low speeds. Our Audis are designed and built to be secure and comfortable on the unlimited Autobahn. That means our cars are able to cruise at 100+ mph without being a handful.

The A4 platform was also more for the economical person. For one wanting more power, the S model was always available. Luckily, the VAG 1.8T is a very tuner friendly engine that has been around for a while with points proven on power that can be made.

[jesse500]

What's A good PSI to run these turbos @? Greg said that He can set boost to whatever I want, since I was asking him power/longevity #'s. I see UNI Stage 1 is 16.5, 1+ is 18, and Stage 2 is also 18psi.

Is 18psi, a very large amount? Would say 16.5-17 be fine? Stock K03S.

[Seerlah]

21psi

These cars are old. If the turbo blows just swap in another used one for cheap.

[jesse500]

21psi

These cars are old. If the turbo blows just swap in another used one for cheap.

you serious on the 21psi? I didn't think A k03 could push that amount of psi (stock intercooler). I actually have a spare K03 off an 03 1.8T, so Im not terribly concerned about that.

[Seerlah]

I ran 22psi on my stock turbo.

[iksnoved25]

On the topic of ELMs... I have two of them. Both are bluetooth, one of which is the mini version (blue one). Neither of them show boost levels. Anyone else have this problem?

[USAF Long]

I have the mini one, and torque, and it reads vacuum and boost, had to add the dial to the torque app display. How accurate is it? Not sure since I don't have a real boost gauge in the car reading from the manifold, but it gives me an idea. But my boost is all over the map, somedays it will spike 16-17 psi, others the max is 12.8. Who knows. I just bought 550cc injectors and am doing a new tune soon.

[old guy]

I ran 22psi on my stock turbo.

I ran 21-22 psi with the GIAC big injector file from 50k to 200k miles on a K03. I did replace it once with another BW K03 during that time period.

[old guy]

On the topic of ELMs... I have two of them. Both are bluetooth, one of which is the mini version (blue one). Neither of them show boost levels. Anyone else have this problem?

If you are using TorquePro you need to set up a gauge for "Turbo Boost and Vacuum Guage"

I have the mini one, and torque, and it reads vacuum and boost, had to add the dial to the torque app display. How accurate is it? Not sure since I don't have a real boost gauge in the car reading from the manifold, but it gives me an idea. But my boost is all over the map, somedays it will spike 16-17 psi, others the max is 12.8. Who knows. I just bought 550cc injectors and am doing a new tune soon.

I have a boost gauge and comparing it to TorquePro I would say the TorquePro is pretty much useless for monitoring actual boost levels. TorquePro is really good for monitoring a lot of things but boost isn't one of them.

[Seerlah]

Stock turbo is so small, might as well get the most out of it you can.

[USAF Long]

I have this bluetooth adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Version-Blueto...eywords=elm327

[iksnoved25]

If you are using TorquePro you need to set up a gauge for "Turbo Boost and Vacuum Guage"

I have a boost gauge and comparing it to TorquePro I would say the TorquePro is pretty much useless for monitoring actual boost levels. TorquePro is really good for monitoring a lot of things but boost isn't one of them.

I was using torque free, which still lets you use boost. I just want to see where mine peaks at to see if the ecu was tuned or not. I've never driven a 1.8T so I don't know how they compare. My saab is a stage 1 2.0T (265hp/265tq) so I can't really compare it to that.