17Z Brake Rotors

[SPB.2127]

I'm going to be swapping out the front and rear brakes on my avant relatively soon. I know there are several options for 17Z calipers and there are many more threads discussing them. I have decided on using the V70R rotors.



Has anyone used these StopTech Powerslot rotors? Any issues? Which pads are running with them?




Or, would you recommend using something different? I prefer the slotted look over the drilled rotors I currently have.

For the rear I will be installing the Apikol rear brake upgrade kit as I want to do the braided stainless lines too.

[audacity]

there are centric rotors which i was lead to believe are the manufacturer of stoptechs stuff on amazon for like 120 for a pair.

[a4kamila6]

Drilled are no bueno unless they are like the expensive carbon kevlar or whatever rotors. Those arent drilled, those holes are made during the fabrication process somehow, but not drilled, which weakens the rotor and can lead to fractures.

Slotted is the way to go if you want better heat/gas dissipation than a unslotted or undrilled rotor although newer rotors and pads dont suffer from glazing and etc.




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[MacDaddy]

Ive seen solid rotors crack and ive seen drilled rotors not crack, its going to depend on how hard you drive, periodic inspection and replacement if cracked is probably your best bet. Mind you i have drilled/slotted rotors and the slots fill with dust and the holes plug up with dust next time im just going with solid rotors (zimmerman, brembo, something like that)

[vavJETTAw36]

Good call on the v70 rotors. They have the least amount of labor to make work


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[rani_aridi]

Mind you i have drilled/slotted rotors and the slots fill with dust and the holes plug up with dust next time im just going with solid rotors (zimmerman, brembo, something like that)

That's pretty much the purpose of the slots - keeping the rotor surface clean and avoiding build up on the rotors which would cause that warped feeling.

[MacDaddy]

I do have warped feeling, my brake pedal is spongey (it has the infamous impossible to fix spongey pedal that plauges the b5 audi's and passats) and i dont think the rear brakes are doing their fair share.

[rani_aridi]

I do have warped feeling, my brake pedal is spongey (it has the infamous impossible to fix spongey pedal that plauges the b5 audi's and passats) and i dont think the rear brakes are doing their fair share.

Spongy or warped feeling? Spongy isn't rotor related.

[MacDaddy]

Both, i think its air in the MC and i think the only way of getting it out is bench bleeding, i think the MC has an air bubble in the rear circuit thats making the front do most of the work and caused the front rotors to warp.

[SPB.2127]

Wow this thread veered far off from my original topic and questions. I never mentioned cracked rotors or pedal feel but that's all this thread has become.

[a4kamila6]

I personally have not run those exact rotors, but my bet is aslong as they are quality one piece rotors, you will be happy. only situation i can see someone not being happy is if rotor is poor quality or bad rotor/pad pairing. just get some stoptech pads and you should be okay.


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[antisparkplug]

Not to derail this thread further, but I love your wheels/caliper color. What wheels are those? and are those calpiers just yellow?

[audacity]

Not to derail this thread further, but I love your wheels/caliper color. What wheels are those? and are those calpiers just yellow?

they look like work emotions to me. or something pretty similar.

[SPB.2127]

Not to derail this thread further, but I love your wheels/caliper color. What wheels are those? and are those calpiers just yellow?

they look like work emotions to me. or something pretty similar.

Yes, Work Emotion CR Kai in 18x8.5 with yellow calipers. I will be painting the rears to match this spring. The wheels are for sale if you are interested.

[TheDuke]

That part number on that screenshot for the correct stoptech rotors to fit b5 s4 with 17Z calipers?

[SPB.2127]

That part number on that screenshot for the correct stoptech rotors to fit b5 s4 with 17Z calipers?

From what I understand the Volvo V70R front brake rotors wit on a B5 with 17z calipers with little to no modification.

I was hoping that someone would chime in on this thread saying "ya I bolted a similar set of Volvo V70R rotors to my B5 with 17Z calipers and did not have to change a thing."

[awd2ks4]

I'm running those rotors no problems they take a little work to fit like drilling bigger holes 19mm if I remember correctly and I had to do a little grinding too

[vavJETTAw36]

I'm running those rotors no problems they take a little work to fit like drilling bigger holes 19mm if I remember correctly and I had to do a little grinding too

Yes what this guy said. Grinding is required on aluminum uprights. If you have Steel you are fine. Drill out your lug holes (use lubrication to make it easier. Can't remember what's best but even using some wd 40 will help) and they fit right up.

On contrast to the c230's I used last go around, I had to open up the center bore AND lug holes. Wasn't too bad of a job if you use a snadflapper wheel. I had a spindle laying around with a hub in it I used for off-the-car reference


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[vavJETTAw36]

I modified the v70r rotors today actually. Just ground out enough to allow the lugs to screw in. Used a Dremel and 60 grit grinding wheels. Took about 3 minutes per lug hole. You can use 3/4 drill bit but I didn't want to buy one. Used what I had laying around.


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[zillarob]

V70 rotors need the lug holes opened up. I use a 3/4" bit I got at Home Depot for like $15.
Im a cheap ass mofo, but money well spent when it takes 5min for both instead of 5min per hole.

Ive not used them on alum upright, but steel needs 2 spots ground down a little to clear.
The upper corner area at the top to clear the inside edge of the rotor, and a raised area toward the bottom to clear the rear face.

I have always had to knock the outer pins in the caliper that the pads sit on down about 1/16".
Some say they didnt have to do this. Can be a little tricky to get at because of where they are inside the caliper.
Ive attacked them with all sorts of stuff and one of these would be well worth the $25 if they are hitting.

http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-b...der-60627.html

[ricekikr]

Which pads are running with them?

Currently on 17z EBC yellows on my 18z. Great pads. No squeal, nice initial bite and hasn't faded on me yet.

Avoid Hawk HPS. Any pad is better than Hawk HPS (based on oem vs hps a4 pads).

[topquarkpc]

Can someone confirm that ML55 AMG rotors too will work with the 17Z calipers...???
I bought these from Amazon and wanted to be sure these will fit.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B1U...430+500+55+amg

[y3ti]

I believe the ml55 is a 345mm rotor, meaning no, it won't work with the 17z. Those are used with 18Z calipers.

From my research, the goto rotor for the 17Zs is from a Volvo V70R. I just installed my 17Zs with V70R rotors and the install went super smooth. Minor grinding on the spindle, and a little on the caliper brake pad guides.

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[topquarkpc]

thanks for the info...
wondering if you can further elaborate on what you had to do on the 'caliper brake pad guides'?
I will go ahead and order them rotors for 17z... did you have to bore out the hub & bolt holes?
also what pads are you running?
thanks again.

[Timtheguru]

thanks for the info...
wondering if you can further elaborate on what you had to do on the 'caliper brake pad guides'?
I will go ahead and order them rotors for 17z... did you have to bore out the hub & bolt holes?
also what pads are you running?
thanks again.

Here you go.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4/msgs/190778.phtml

[topquarkpc]

Thanks Tim!

[y3ti]

The guides are the rods that stick out on the inside of the caliper. The outer guides had to be ground down a couple millimeters on my install. You'll understand this more when you mount the calipers, it's not difficult at all. I used a dremel with a grinding attachment.

The V70R rotors need the lugs bored out with a 3/4" bit. 5 minute job if you have access to a drill press. You don't need to touch the hub bore.

I'm gonna be running EBC red stuffs, I've heard good things about em. Haven't had a chance to try out the setup yet tho.

[1illA6]

On the Volvo rotos The guides on the D side need to be grind down just a bit they rubbed on the rotor, left a nice little grove in it, P side was ok.
On my 01.5 the steel upright needed to be grinded as well, followed JHM one.
Lug holes opened up.

I ended up with Mercedes rotors instead with all the work done lol

No spongy feeling and stop good, Only complaint is the amount of brake dust the Redstuff pads make.

[Timtheguru]

My redstuff pads separated, so I went with some Stoptech ceramic pads.

[topquarkpc]

just ordered some hawk hps on amazon... ordered the wrong ones month ago so I had to re-order...
I thought I was getting a 18z but I got 17z calipers from ECS (for Touareg 1st Gen)... this is how I put together my last set on my Casa Avant (now sold)...
these new ones are going on my IY avant... just painted them with VHT engine paint (lime green)... i'll post some pics after all said & done.
good info on the guides & up-rights needing some grinding action...

[james 408]

depending on your use... those hps' are wholly inadequate for road racing or canyon racing applications. Haven't tried that EBC stuff for almost a decade as I absolutely hated them last time i tried em -- i'm sure they've been revised. The stoptech pads are reported by a few driving buddies of mine as being pretty good, but they're kinda slow so who knows. I know before they revised em they sucked on the track, and generally ceramic pads are street use only. I found project Mu HC+ to be a great hybrid pad, but even they start to fade on longer sessions. gotta go full track pad if your tripple digiting repeatedly. Keep in mind i rank dust and noise somewhere between who cares and so what?. But to the best of my recall those HC+'s didn't make noise (although it's been a few years since i ran a non-race pad). If you're looking for a street setup, disregard everything I just said cause I have no idea; I find streetpads to be extremely dangerous as even the performance ones can cook in under 5 minutes of hard use -- some as early as the 2nd triple digit braking zone.

Also to revive the BS about slotted and drilled, not that that stuff is wrong, but it's much more complicated than that. Vein count, shape, metal quality, etc. all makes a difference. Even then, might not save you. I've cracked and warped plenty -- with speed and frequency of brake zones being the biggest variable. Most people, even at the track, will never crack a rotor. On the street, the slotted ones cause a bit of a pulsation of the pedal -- pretty minor but if you care about things like dust you might care about that.

[a4kamila6]

I dont know if Pagid makes different series of pads but the set i installed with my brembo rotors up front are great. Best pads I have ever put on my car.

[vavJETTAw36]

Anyone have issues with the red stuff pad rubbing the inside of the c230 rotor (where the rotor surface transitions to the hat). It makes my braking pulsate after 500 miles or so. You can see on the pad the edge doesn't get worn. I wonder if the Volvo rotor has a larger surface that won't have this issue.


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[Timtheguru]

C230 rotors are at minimum thickness (28mm) that the 17z calipers were spec'd for. The maximum thickness of a rotor that the 17z calipers were spec'd for is 32mm, which the V70R rotors are. So with knowing this, what I suspect happens with the C230 rotors is that the caliper pistons are over extended (most likely causing pulsation) after some wear on the pads and rotor.

[zatch_303]

just ordered some hawk hps on amazon... ordered the wrong ones month ago so I had to re-order...
I thought I was getting a 18z but I got 17z calipers from ECS (for Touareg 1st Gen)... this is how I put together my last set on my Casa Avant (now sold)...
these new ones are going on my IY avant... just painted them with VHT engine paint (lime green)... i'll post some pics after all said & done.
good info on the guides & up-rights needing some grinding action...

change you sig if you sold the casa avant.

whats she driving now? and I assume you're still rocking (and loving) your stage 3 shortbus?

[y3ti]

Anyone have issues with the red stuff pad rubbing the inside of the c230 rotor (where the rotor surface transitions to the hat). It makes my braking pulsate after 500 miles or so. You can see on the pad the edge doesn't get worn. I wonder if the Volvo rotor has a larger surface that won't have this issue.


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Are you asking about this?

[topquarkpc]

change you sig if you sold the casa avant.

whats she driving now? and I assume you're still rocking (and loving) your stage 3 shortbus?

hey...go easy on the mentally disabled jokes mr...
she, my wife, is not driving at all as she uses the public transportation overseas...she says she wants something electric for her next ride...
I sent my avant overseas and couldn't register it due to the lack of certain emission control device on my car so it sat in the underground garage for a year until I brought her back home...
hopefully I can drive her soon... all parts are due this week.

[zatch_303]

Was just saying short bus cuz it's a yellow avant is all. No intent on being rude. Hope you can drive it soon! Cheers

[topquarkpc]

Just about to install the kit but I need some help in determining the v70 rotor from centric (p/n 125-39035) has the right hub bore for our cars... I measure 2.67in ~ 68mm. And I think our cars have something like 57.1mm hub bore...
Are people getting by this issue with hub centric rings? Or am I wrong on this?

[y3ti]

Just about to install the kit but I need some help in determining the v70 rotor from centric (p/n 125-39035) has the right hub bore for our cars... I measure 2.67in ~ 68mm. And I think our cars have something like 57.1mm hub bore...
Are people getting by this issue with hub centric rings? Or am I wrong on this?

It goes right on. As long as you ordered that p/n, you're good.