Stock 1.8 long block w/ 3076R questions

[USAF Long]

So I have a friend who is parting out his big turbo A4 that had a 2.0L stroker w/ 3076R. He is making me a great deal on the turbo, manifold, and coolant/oil lines.

So since I have a 1.8T with only a few mods (test pipe, custom built exhaust 2 1/4" pipe, and previous owner says my car has a spec stage 2 clutch, and I have some Raxle CV shafts)

Anyhow, my question is how to integrate this turbo w/ low boost (16 psi seems like it could be safe).

1. Inlet pipe and MAF: I will probably get a 3" VR6 MAF unless I need to get bigger. Do I just put my electronics in that housing or do I get VR6 electronics too? Does anyone make an inlet with all the fittings I need for a big turbo setup or do I have to custom fab up something with some couplers and some pipe? I'd like to retain a stock type diverter valve so I will have to find an intake that can accept a return pipe so I don't dump to atmosphere and throw off my MAF reading.

2. Intercooler: He has an intercooler that I can get w/ pipes, but it's set up for a blow off valve that dumps to atmosphere. He is running a MAF-less tune. I'd like to retain the MAF so I can have good cold start behavior. I guess I could use his core and fab up whatever pipes I need if I need a different port on a pipe?

3. Injectors: He had 780cc's but he was also running 30 psi. I want to keep the boost low since I have stock rods, so I will probably run 16-18 psi. Would 550's be big enough? He had a B5 fuel rail and return style fuel system. I'd like to stay B6 style.

4. Controlling boost: He had an IE manual boost controller, I would like to retain the N75 and run the vacuum line to the wastegate. He said the wastegate spring is set for 16 psi so I could keep boost around that on wastegate pressure, the N75 should be able to do this.

5. Tune: Not sure who could tune a setup like this for me and how much I'd be spending? I would think if I retain n75 and low boost it could be tuned just like any eliminator car. Maybe an OTS tune would work or could be tweaked to turn the boost down to safe levels.

I just don't want to bend a rod, but I'd like to get about 300 hp out of this setup for now. I know it's capable of a lot more, and as I either build another engine or beef up this one I could still keep this turbo and grow with it.

Anyone know of someone successfully running a 3076R on a stock long block?

[redline380]

1, 3, and 4 all depend on 5, more or less.

2 is run what he was running, or get something comparable. MAFless doesn't necessarily mean poor cold starts. My MAFless B5 starts like a champ. I DD'd it last winter and had no problems.

Most importantly, I wouldn't waste my time on that turbo with stock rods. Why not just run his entire setup, engine included? Running a big turbo on low boost is like having a smoking hot GF but only getting BJ's.

[USAF Long]

His engine has scarred cylinder walls. So he's parting out the engine and going with a whole new setup.

Haha nice analogy. His head, intake manifold, and turbo setup is worth more than I paid for my car. He needs a new short block but I guess he's got soemthing else in the works so he's selling off the stuff he won't be re-using.

[redline380]

His engine has scarred cylinder walls. So he's parting out the engine and going with a whole new setup.

Haha nice analogy. His head, intake manifold, and turbo setup is worth more than I paid for my car. He needs a new short block but I guess he's got soemthing else in the works so he's selling off the stuff he won't be re-using.

How badly scored? Hone it out, or bore it over more.

i am very against the idea of running a rod-bending capable turbo at non-rod bending levels. What is the point? You would have just as much power as a lesser turbo with more lag.

You could do like I did and buy everything a piece at a time, and build the engine on the side. Limited downtime and an engine capable of handling the turbo.

[USAF Long]

I had a second engine I was building but lost it (long story) when my girlfriend passed away and I had to move. So that was the plan. Now I don't have a house and garage anymore, I have an apartment with a car port now.

I'm against it for the same reason you stated. I could probably get results with a 2871R eliminator but he's making me a great price on his setup that I almost can't say no to it.

[redline380]

I had a second engine I was building but lost it (long story) when my girlfriend passed away and I had to move. So that was the plan. Now I don't have a house and garage anymore, I have an apartment with a car port now.

I'm against it for the same reason you stated. I could probably get results with a 2871R eliminator but he's making me a great price on his setup that I almost can't say no to it.

So why not just buy his whole motor and resurrect it? If you have the cash, why not?

[diagnosticator]

300 HP on stock rods is a hole in the side of the block sooner than later. AKA a "Ticking Time Bomb".

[USAF Long]

I thought 300-350 could be done?

[redline380]

500 can be done, but it is just a matter of time before there is a nice sized window in the block. I've seen a stock turbo kill rods.

[USAF Long]

I'll have to see what he wants for the whole thing. He has an IE stroker crank, IE rods. Not sure what pistons but I know one is banged up good and scored the walls. They stuck a scope in the cylinder and saw the damage, he said it's not worth boring it out and getting new pistons when you could get another 1.8T block to swap the crank, rods, get 1 new piston, and new rings. I might be able to source a 1.8t junk yard motor to tear down. His head is ported, has IE valve springs, not sure if its had bigger valves or not but I think it could rev to 9k.

[Seerlah]

Without a custom tune you will have major lag on stock displacement. And with a custom tune, it's not necessarily safe to run on a stock block (during tuning anyways). 15psi I would say is safe. And hardware is all tune dependant.

[USAF Long]

yeah I am worried it might be too laggy, then peak, and not be as fun daily driving on low boost.

[redline380]

I'll have to see what he wants for the whole thing. He has an IE stroker crank, IE rods. Not sure what pistons but I know one is banged up good and scored the walls. They stuck a scope in the cylinder and saw the damage, he said it's not worth boring it out and getting new pistons when you could get another 1.8T block to swap the crank, rods, get 1 new piston, and new rings. I might be able to source a 1.8t junk yard motor to tear down. His head is ported, has IE valve springs, not sure if its had bigger valves or not but I think it could rev to 9k.

Sounds like you have your answer. An 06a engine can be had cheap, around $200 or less. Check car-part.com. Remember, you can use Beetle/Jetta/Golf/Passat/01 A4 blocks as well. I keep a spare 06a block just in case.

[USAF Long]

aren't the mount points different for the transverse 1.8T's?

[redline380]

aren't the mount points different for the transverse 1.8T's?

Yes, but the block has the correct bosses for longitudinal engine mounts. Pretty much only the block can be used. The head too I guess

[USAF Long]

I think I may just get a 2871 Elminator and bolt it on. I don't know, I mean I would love to build up a fast B6, but then again I could just put that money toward a B8 S4.

[B6A4Dave]

have him sell me the 30R set up! lol

[texasboy21]

Why not buy the setup and build your engine in the meantime?