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  1. #1
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    BFI - 1.8T Longitudinal 228mm Clutch & Lightweight Flywheel Kits

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    We are very excited to be able to bring yet another new product to market along with the help of Competition Clutch. These new Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel kits are offered in 5 different stages, to meet a variety of applications. Below we have outlined and simplified what each kit includes to give you an idea of just which kit is right for you.

    LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEELS:
    Our Ultra Lightweight Flywheels are made from investment cast 4140 steel which tips the scales at 18.4-lbs versus the stock flywheel weight of 26-lbs. These are superior in strength and far lighter than their stock counterparts, allowing you to free up more horsepower and rev faster than with your sluggish factory parts. Included in every kit.

    STAGE 1 & 2:
    Both full faced, steel back, brass plus sprung discs. Stage 1 includes a 1900 lb pressure plate, good for a max torque of 210 ft lbs while the Stage 2 kit includes a 2500 lb pressure plate good for 300 ft lbs. Both 1 & 2 are geared for street comfort and daily driveability. This is an ideal upgrade for a stock turbo plus bolt-ons.

    STAGE 3:
    Our Stage 3 kit includes a full segmented, ceramic, sprung disc, and 2500 lb pressure plate, good for a max torque of 400 ft lbs. This kit is ideal for spirited driving and would also pair well with a K04 turbo upgrade.

    STAGE 4 & 5:
    Our Stage 4 & 5 kits are comprised of both a 6 puck, and 4 puck copper, sprung, ceramic disc respectively. Both kits utilize our 2500 lb pressure plate. The Stage 4 kit is good for a max torque of 500 ft lbs while the Stage 5 kit is good for a max torque of 550 ft lbs. These kits are great options for a big turbo set-up.

    In addition to the parts mentioned above, we also include brand new hardware, a specific clutch alignment tool, and a brand new OEM replacement release bearing.






    Last edited by Black Forest; 02-04-2016 at 02:57 PM.

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
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    No mention on if the flywheel is SFI certified so I am guessing it's not?

  3. #3
    Registered User Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrisw023 View Post
    No mention on if the flywheel is SFI certified so I am guessing it's not?
    All of the competition flywheels are SFI compliant. Not every flywheel is submitted to the SFI for testing, though they are all designed on the same design principles and use the same high quality materials and are assembled in the same manner as those that are given SFI certification.

    SFI is a requirement of many race series in the US, but not a requirement for street applications. If a particular flywheel is not being consistently used in sanctioned racing and the SFI approval is not required, then most manufacturers will choose not to send that part to SFI, as the process can be time consuming and costly. In this case, this is a primarily street based application, so SFI approval would only add to the cost of each item. Especially since not only is there a cost for the initial approval process, but also a licensing agreement and a cost for each decal used. For those reasons specific SFI approval is forgone for costs savings and a better consumer retail price.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Can i ask why you stayed with the stock diameter of 228mm and didn't bump it up to 240mm?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davdraco1 View Post
    Can i ask why you stayed with the stock diameter of 228mm and didn't bump it up to 240mm?
    There are a number of reasons to stay with a 228mm vs a 240mm. While a 240mm flywheel would have the advantage of having a higher friction rate at any given disc material configuration. It also suffers from some setbacks. The overall mass of the clutch and flywheel would be greater, causing more inertia (which could be a positive in some situations, except when trying to lighten things, its a bit counterproductive).

    We have worked with Competition Clutch to pair the friction compounds to a 2500 lb pressure plate, to give a clutch and flywheel kit that will perform as well as its 240mm equivalent (or better) at each stage of friction material (Stage 1-5). In addition to the benefit of less overall mass, and better grip (higher overall burst speed) the use of the 4140 investment cast flywheel, along with a 228mm clutch yields the best performance per dollar. While the heavier pressure plate imparts a slightly heavier pedal feel, it also gives a clamping force that will allow each disc to grab strong and hold the power for even applications that even exceed its torque rating, for years to come.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    If the mass of the clutch and pressure plate was such a concern why not lighten up the flywheel itself to offset the mass of the 240mm cluthc disk and pressure plate? I understand the physics behind a smaller diameter disk and trying to spin it up but aren't the holding capacity's of the 240mm worth it over the 228mm?
    Last edited by Davdraco1; 02-05-2016 at 09:21 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davdraco1 View Post
    If the mass of the clutch and pressure plate was such a concern why not lighten up the flywheel itself to offset the mass of the 240mm cluthc disk and pressure plate? I understand the physics behind a smaller diameter disk and trying to spin it up but aren't the holding capacity's of the 240mm worth it over the 228mm?
    You can run any power level on a 228mm setup, dont be fooled by the size. The friction material and the number of pucks are more important than size itself.
    I never heard anyone say "Damn, my 228mm kit wont hold up any more, I need a 240mm."

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    When using any material, the larger diameter will always hold more power then the smaller diameter. And i can imagine that going from a 228mm to a 240mm would add to much weight for it to be beneficial. i could be wrong. the only gain i see from the 228mm set up is that the smaller diameter will spin up faster, that's just physics, but if all the weight is more towards the outside of the "disks," then it may spin just like a 240mm with all the weight towards the center of the "disks."

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    I might be wrong...

    ...but I would imagine the moment of inertia of the 228 Vs 240mm flywheels would be pretty much the same. The overall diameters of both flywheels remain the same. The 228 / 240mm only applies to the actual friction surface.

    The 240mm clutch will weigh marginally more than the 228, but this difference won't really be noticeable. The benefits of 12mm extra friction / clamping area will more than offset any negatives the minute increase in clutch weight MAY introduce.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davdraco1 View Post
    When using any material, the larger diameter will always hold more power then the smaller diameter. And i can imagine that going from a 228mm to a 240mm would add to much weight for it to be beneficial. i could be wrong. the only gain i see from the 228mm set up is that the smaller diameter will spin up faster, that's just physics, but if all the weight is more towards the outside of the "disks," then it may spin just like a 240mm with all the weight towards the center of the "disks."
    Yes, if both use the same material, same amount of pucks, and same clamping force, the 240 will hold more. But, with the proper material, number of pucks, and a good clamping force you will never "max out" a 228mm setup on our cars. Remember, clutches are rated by tq, not hp.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings nynoah's Avatar
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    a 228mm stage 4 or 5 will drive like ass in day to day driving. I would never go higher than that stage 3 style disk if you want to not hate your car in traffic. I run that disk on a 240mm and love it.
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    6/8 puk friction disks will grab better than a full-faced disk of a similar diameter. But they will munch through whatever flywheels they are clamped to. For this reason, they are best on drag cars, less friendly on daily street-driven rides.
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  13. #13
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    All I was saying is that the 240 would hold more power, i.e. torque then a 228 with all conditions the same. It probably wouldn't cost much more to make, again, I could be wrong. And if weight was a concern, dropping a few lbs on the flywheel would make up the difference.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davdraco1 View Post
    All I was saying is that the 240 would hold more power, i.e. torque then a 228 with all conditions the same. It probably wouldn't cost much more to make, again, I could be wrong. And if weight was a concern, dropping a few lbs on the flywheel would make up the difference.
    This.
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  15. #15
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    Besides advertising and marketing for companies to make money off the 240mm setup on our cars, what is the advantage(s) of the 240 over the 228?

    Does anyone have any tales of anyone who "maxed out" a 228mm setup on our cars



























    Didn't think so

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    Advantages of 240mm clutch over a 228?

    The same reason 345mm front and 300mm rear brake disks are superior to a 280 / 256mm set-up.

    As for tales of maxed-out 228mm clutches, they do exist. The same way 240mm clutches can be maxed out. Every clutch will have a torque limit and slip point, regardless of the size. It just means the smaller diameter will find that point earlier. The larger the friction area, the more grip, and it's less likely to overheat due to excess slippage.

    Clutches are maxed out on a regular basis, the fact they are not always documented does not mean slip doesn't occur. There are threads where clutches have slipped due to increased torque levels and aggressive driving, where the thread starters have asked opinions what to go with next. They may not use the term "maxed out", but a clutch which fails due to excessive slippage, enough to generate lots of heat that will blue / glaze the flywheel's friction surface can be regarded as being "maxed out".

    Everything has a limit, how early that ceiling is met is what we try to increase.
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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    The advantage is that the 240mm set up will have around 9%-10% more surface area then the 228mm set up if both friction areas start at the same radius from he axis of rotation. I'm not saying that driving a staged 228mm clutch wont do the job. I'm saying that from a mechanical stand point, a 240mm set up is much better with all factors being equal. You have more mechanical leverage over the drive-train with the 240mm set up, which means its actually easier for the clutch to transfer the power from the engine to the transmission and the rest of the wheels. This would reduce drive-train loss. Now, I don't know if the cost of manufacturing a 240 is that much higher then a 228.

    ECS sells their RA4 Stage 1 kit for 600$. This kit is a 240mm set up and will hold 295 ft/lbs.
    BFI's Stage 1 kit is 550$. It's a 228mm set up and will hold 210 ft/lbs.
    Both include everything you need. Which would you buy. Now, the materials used in these two kit may be different, but what us consumers care about is performance per dollar we spend. The ECS kit costs you 2.03$ per ft/lb of holding force. the BFI kit costs you 2.62$ per ft/lb of holding force. These may seem like useless numbers but facts are facts. Which would you buy? And on a side note, our cars with a basic tune would make more then 210 ft/lbs, so paying 550$ for almost stock power seems a bit silly.






















    Didn't think so[/QUOTE]

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nollywood View Post
    Advantages of 240mm clutch over a 228?

    The same reason 345mm front and 300mm rear brake disks are superior to a 280 / 256mm set-up.

    As for tales of maxed-out 228mm clutches, they do exist. The same way 240mm clutches can be maxed out. Every clutch will have a torque limit and slip point, regardless of the size. It just means the smaller diameter will find that point earlier. The larger the friction area, the more grip, and it's less likely to overheat due to excess slippage.

    Clutches are maxed out on a regular basis, the fact they are not always documented does not mean slip doesn't occur. There are threads where clutches have slipped due to increased torque levels and aggressive driving, where the thread starters have asked opinions what to go with next. They may not use the term "maxed out", but a clutch which fails due to excessive slippage, enough to generate lots of heat that will blue / glaze the flywheel's friction surface can be regarded as being "maxed out".

    Everything has a limit, how early that ceiling is met is what we try to increase.
    My stock clutch with 150k miles on it drive fine on stock power levels. The second i installed my tuned ECU from kompresd 4th and 5th gear were useless because I increased the torque by a good amount. I "maxed out a 228mm kit"

  19. #19
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    David, you "maxed out" stock 228mm setup. Not the best 228mm kit there is to offer.

    get what you are saying, where ppl have overheated and slipped the 228mm setup. By no means have any of these ppl "maxed out" the 228mm setup.

    If they have a 228mm setup with a carbon/ceramic or whatever the most aggressive material is, a 3/4 puck clutch, and a 3000lb+ clamping force and it slips after a proper breakin period, id say its "maxed out". To say someone slipped or overheated a 228mm setup and not specify what friction material, number of pucks, clamping force they had, is useless information because not enough information was supplied on said setup.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davdraco1 View Post
    My stock clutch with 150k miles on it drive fine on stock power levels. The second i installed my tuned ECU from kompresd 4th and 5th gear were useless because I increased the torque by a good amount. I "maxed out a 228mm kit"
    This is exactly what I'm trying to get across.
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    You also have to think about drive ability with each set up. I understand that if you buying a 6 or 4 puck clutch, youve already forgotten what drive ability is, but there are plenty of full faced disks out there with the same clamping force as this puck sets up. And overheating and slipping a clutch is in fact maxing it out. If it does it everytime you try that pull, the clutch is done, you need a stronger one.

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kronprinz View Post
    David, you "maxed out" stock 228mm setup. Not the best 228mm kit there is to offer.

    get what you are saying, where ppl have overheated and slipped the 228mm setup. By no means have any of these ppl "maxed out" the 228mm setup.

    If they have a 228mm setup with a carbon/ceramic or whatever the most aggressive material is, a 3/4 puck clutch, and a 3000lb+ clamping force and it slips after a proper breakin period, id say its "maxed out". To say someone slipped or overheated a 228mm setup and not specify what friction material, number of pucks, clamping force they had, is useless information because not enough information was supplied on said setup.
    I understand where you're coming from too.

    David DID use the term, "all factors being equal".

    That just about covers it all.
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  23. #23
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    I agreed on "all factors being equal".

    Andy at southbend can make a 4 puck 228mm kit for our car that hold almost 700ft/lbs tq. When someone slips that after a proper breakin, then you can say you maxed out a 228mm setup. Burning a stock 228mm clutch thats built to hold 200ft/lbs iS NOT maxing out a 228mm kit.

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    I understand you can make a 228 kit hold what ever you want, but that same kit at 240 would hold significantly more and probably not cost that much more to make, but again, i could be wrong about the cost.

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kronprinz View Post
    You guys are lost. Andy at southbend can make a 4 puck 228mm kit for our car that hold almost 700ft/lbs tq. When someone slips that after a proper breakin, then you can say you maxed out a 228mm setup. Burning a stock 228mm clutch thats built to hold 200ft/lbs iS NOT maxing out a 228mm kit.
    I would respectfully disagree with regards to being lost.

    A 4 puk disk will be hell in city driving, regardless of diameter. The same can be offered in sizes from 210 - 241mm. The larger diameter will always be superior as far as torque loading and handling go.

    Like design, and material for like, the larger diameter will win, hands down. It's a scientific fact. Regardless of what terminology to apply to a slipping clutch - burnt, glazed, warped (pressure plate) cracking etc. If it can no longer transmit useable power to the transmission input shaft, be it stock or tuned, then this set-up is "maxed out".
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davdraco1 View Post
    I understand you can make a 228 kit hold what ever you want.
    Glad we got that cleared up. lol

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    The other thing to look at with the BFI flywheel is that most of the mass (center of mass) of it looks to be to the outside of the flywheel. The ECS flywheel might have its center of mass closer to the axis of rotation or input shaft. They might "spool" at exactly the same rate. I would imagine the ECS one would be faster because it is around 6lbs lighter.

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings redline380's Avatar
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    Kronprinz is kind of being a prick for no good reason.

    They are saying you can run a softer setup with a larger clutch. A stage 3 240mm would be good enough where a much harsher stage 4 or 5 setup would be needed if it were only 228mm. So yeah, there is a reason one would want a 240mm over 228mm clutch.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by redline380 View Post
    Kronprinz is kind of being a prick for no good reason.

    They are saying you can run a softer setup with a larger clutch. A stage 3 240mm would be good enough where a much harsher stage 4 or 5 setup would be needed if it were only 228mm. So yeah, there is a reason one would want a 240mm over 228mm clutch.
    This.
    I understand staying with 228 if reusing the flywheel, but if you're buying a new flywheel? The weight of this flywheel is comparable to the Clutchmasters, albeit smaller. The ECS being much lighter may be a detraction for some.
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    Veteran Member Four Rings nynoah's Avatar
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    240mm FX350 is the best street clutch out there. Drives like stock holds a buttload of power. Only thing I would consider replacing it with would be a b7 RS4 setup.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nynoah View Post
    240mm FX350 is the best street clutch out there. Drives like stock holds a buttload of power. Only thing I would consider replacing it with would be a b7 RS4 setup.
    I like this kit, but i would prefer this with an aluminum flywheel weighing around 10lbs

  32. #32
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    I ran a 9lb 034 billet fw in my mkiv. Chattered like a mofo. made daily driving suck. But, oh boy! Was it fun to tear thru the gears! Revved like crazy.

    I run an FX400 and 15lb steel flywheel and couldnt be happier.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kronprinz View Post
    You can run any power level on a 228mm setup, dont be fooled by the size. The friction material and the number of pucks are more important than size itself.
    I never heard anyone say "Damn, my 228mm kit wont hold up any more, I need a 240mm."
    Actually that is not true which is exactly why they have power ratings. 500 ft lbs is not that much seeing that rating is only for when the car is rolling at speed under normal loads. Increase the load or launch the car and a car making less then 500 ft lbs could make that clutch slip.

    Why run a 6 puck 228mm kit when a 240mm full face disk would hold the same power but yet be way easier to drive.

    The dual diaphram 228mm 4800 clamping load 6 puck clutch I used to run exploded at 650awhp and 500awtq. The 228mm pressure plate friction ring is also prone to cracking when over heated, which is why you tend to see 228mm PP cracking and not 240mm PP.

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