Need Help - Messed up Wiring

**Beats** · 02-03-2016 06:57 PM

So I had an issue with my MAF sensor connector so I ordered new terminals. I attempted to fix the terminals and ended up messing up. I had to strip the wiring to make room for the new terminals. Now idk how to make the terminals stick on the wires. I know why they won't stick but I'm worried that I cut the wires too short.

What can I do to make the wiring longer? I know ECS has a bunch of electrical wiring repair items but I need advice.

So the wiring is about an inch too short and I need the harness to reach the intake where the MAF sensor is.

I also would like to know how to make it easier to insert the new terminals into the MAF sensor connector. All of this happened because I couldn't push the terminals into the connector and ended up splitting a wire.

I'll add some pictures when I get home and if I'm not making enough sense please let me know so I can clarify.

Thanks guys.

**ST3** · 02-03-2016 07:01 PM

Do you have any local salvage yards with a 2.0T you could cut a section of MAFS wiring from?

**The Infiltrator** · 02-03-2016 07:08 PM

Originally Posted by ST3

Do you have any local salvage yards with a 2.0T you could cut a section of MAFS wiring from?

I would do this. Then solder the wires and get some shrink isolation (you heat it with a blow dryer to shrink it around the wires) to cover the wiring.

**Beats** · 02-03-2016 07:57 PM

Thanks for the replies guys.

Here's the section on ECS I was talking about.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...se/Electrical/

There are some wire repair tools there that look like they would do the job.

Any suggestions?

I'm not sure if I have any 2.0T's in my area.

**ST3** · 02-03-2016 08:07 PM

Try car-part.com to search for used A4 parts in your area.

**palmface** · 02-03-2016 09:05 PM

You are probably looking for a set like this:

Connector: https://www.ecstuning.com/ES393640/
Repair wires (with contacts): https://www.ecstuning.com/ES1009020/
Wire seals: https://www.ecstuning.com/ES340283/

I'd suggest giving the ECS Tuning a call. They should be able to cross match your VIN with the right part numbers for the repairs.

The flat contacts at the end of the repair wires should simply slide into the connector housing without problem. Maybe you bought wrong terminals?

**Beats** · 02-03-2016 10:51 PM

Originally Posted by palmface

You are probably looking for a set like this:

Connector: https://www.ecstuning.com/ES393640/
Repair wires (with contacts): https://www.ecstuning.com/ES1009020/
Wire seals: https://www.ecstuning.com/ES340283/

I'd suggest giving the ECS Tuning a call. They should be able to cross match your VIN with the right part numbers for the repairs.

The flat contacts at the end of the repair wires should simply slide into the connector housing without problem. Maybe you bought wrong terminals?

Thanks man.

I've been told to call ECS but haven't had the time. Wish their chat was open later.

Though I have a question. What's that wire seal?

**palmface** · 02-04-2016 06:51 PM

It's a tiny rubber plug, say, like this one: https://www.ecstuning.com/ES340286/

It goes around the wire and seals the hole through which you insert the terminal. It keeps the moisture out and prevents connectors from corroding. Audi has a dozen variants of these plugs and you need to know the right part number to match the connector housing.

Did you try looking on ebay? Take a look at the MAF connector itself, it might have a part number stamped on it (germans are obsessive compulsive about these things). Try looking for it on ebay, maybe someone has the entire plug with the wires and whatnot for sale. All you'd have to do is just splice the wires.

**Beats** · 02-28-2016 11:44 AM

So I went to a junk yard and bought a piece of the MAF wiring. I hooked it up and the car won't start. I tried soldering it and the solder wouldn't stick well enough so I twisted the wires and taped them up.

Any idea why the car won't start? I created a thread asking for help and was told to check the fuses but they're all fine.

The car won't crank but the MMI and dash work.

Thoughts anyone?

**integroid** · 02-28-2016 11:47 AM

it is apparent you dont know how to solder which probably means you shouldnt be attempting this yourself. Take it to someone that knows what they are doing.

**The Infiltrator** · 02-28-2016 03:17 PM

Originally Posted by Beats

So I went to a junk yard and bought a piece of the MAF wiring. I hooked it up and the car won't start. I tried soldering it and the solder wouldn't stick well enough so I twisted the wires and taped them up.

Any idea why the car won't start? I created a thread asking for help and was told to check the fuses but they're all fine.

The car won't crank but the MMI and dash work.

Thoughts anyone?

I would watch a YouTube video on how to solder if you don't know how.

EDIT: Here you go... Seriously, don't leave the wires twisted and taped.

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...=how+to+solder

**Beats** · 02-28-2016 08:07 PM

I feel like an idiot but thanks.

Even when I solder the wires correctly I still won't be able to start the car. Anyone know what's going on with the car? I'm leading to believe the ECM was fried but hope to God it isn't.

**Fburg A4** · 02-28-2016 09:18 PM

you sure you checked the correct fuse? interestingly enough, the MAF fuse also supplies a power to the ECU. i bet there is more than 1 power wire going to the ECU, but that power wire not being supplied with power may prevent a cranking condition.

also, i figured id take a look at my maf connector and you can remove the wires. that green piece is the weather seal that is crimped to the terminal

**Beats** · 02-28-2016 09:59 PM

Originally Posted by Fburg A4

you sure you checked the correct fuse? interestingly enough, the MAF fuse also supplies a power to the ECU. i bet there is more than 1 power wire going to the ECU, but that power wire not being supplied with power may prevent a cranking condition.

also, i figured id take a look at my maf connector and you can remove the wires. that green piece is the weather seal that is crimped to the terminal

Thanks for the reply Fburg. I figured out what the seals were lol.

I checked each fuse under the passenger and driver side panels and all fuses in the rear boot behind the tail light.

Unless there are more fuse locations I believe I checked them all.

**Fburg A4** · 02-28-2016 10:00 PM

Originally Posted by Beats

Thanks for the reply Fburg. I figured out what the seals were lol.

I checked each fuse under the passenger and driver side panels and all fuses in the rear boot behind the tail light.

Unless there are more fuse locations I believe I checked them all.

Fuse block under the hood contains the maf fuse. Hopefully that's all it is

**Slick_B8** · 02-28-2016 10:15 PM

Yea, theres a fuse box under the windshield tank under the hood.

**Beats** · 02-28-2016 10:28 PM

Originally Posted by Fburg A4

Fuse block under the hood contains the maf fuse. Hopefully that's all it is

Thanks I'll check the fuses.

**Beats** · 02-29-2016 12:01 AM

Found a blown fuse under the windshield tank. It's orange and has the number 5 on it.

Pretty sure it's blown. My multimeter checker thing lit up red for all but two. That one and a red 10. The meter lit up blue not red so idk what it meant but pulled them and 5 was the only one that appeared blown.

**B7AudiSline** · 02-29-2016 12:13 AM

Originally Posted by Beats

Found a blown fuse under the windshield tank. It's orange and has the number 5 on it.

Pretty sure it's blown. My multimeter checker thing lit up red for all but two. That one and a red 10. The meter lit up blue not red so idk what it meant but pulled them and 5 was the only one that appeared blown.

Did you replace the fuse yet, and if so is your problem fixed?

**Beats** · 02-29-2016 12:26 AM

Originally Posted by B7AudiSline

Did you replace the fuse yet, and if so is your problem fixed?

I need to get the fuse tomorrow. It's 2:25 AM lol.

**Fburg A4** · 02-29-2016 02:12 AM

On a positive note, the maf fuse is a 5 amp fuse. I think it's the third from the end. You may have found the culprit. Hopefully whatever caused it to blow before is no longer an issue

**The Infiltrator** · 02-29-2016 05:22 AM

Originally Posted by Beats

I feel like an idiot but thanks.

Even when I solder the wires correctly I still won't be able to start the car. Anyone know what's going on with the car? I'm leading to believe the ECM was fried but hope to God it isn't.

No need to feel like an idiot. It's not a common thing to know.

**irobb** · 02-29-2016 05:51 AM

Hope you got it fixed man!

**kt883** · 02-29-2016 07:10 AM

guessing that's your issue bc even a poorest solder joint should still conduct electricity (even poorly) just might last long or withstand movement.

Soldering is the best option if you have the know how, but I still prefer solder butt joints for their ease of use and solid connection in addition to their plastic protection over top. Cover harness with harness tape or hockey tape to give the oem look instead of electrical tape.

FYI you can use any same size piece of wire to splice, doesn't have to be from vw but the kit makes splicing easy since the terminal is already on the one end. Its pricey though. I got a replacement MAF at junkyard and it cam with harness pigtail so I removed the terminals and spliced into new connector

**Lambda13** · 02-29-2016 07:47 AM

So if you fried your ECM which is what I did when this happened, you can get a replacement for a fraction of the cost off www.automotix.com which is exactly what I did. Then paid the dealer $100 to flash it to my car.

**integroid** · 02-29-2016 07:47 AM

Use your multi meter to check continuity on the fuses you are in question. Pretty simple...pull out fuse, turn multi meter to continuity, place a lead on each blade.....if you hear a constant tone the fuse is most likely not blown. If you dont hear anything or intermittent, then the fuse is most likely blown.

**Beats** · 02-29-2016 01:56 PM

The fuse was blown and the car started. I soldered the wires back on correctly this time. The fuse blew again so I'm on my way to pick more up.

**p0isin** · 02-29-2016 02:15 PM

Just a watch out when repairing wiring that is exposed to atmosphere and humidity/moisture. Certain types of solder & flux can lead to corrosion over time on wiring. I noticed about 2 years after soldering and heatshrinking a few copper ground wires in my main harness that they all were corroded to the point they were causing intermittent faults and voltage drops. The wires that I just twist tied and heat shrunk together at the same time were totally fine. This harness sits inside the car and had no direct contact with moisture but the wires still corroded.

I'm not an expert, so I may have chosen the wrong type of solder and wiring but that's just my observation. Good luck with fixing your issue.

**irobb** · 02-29-2016 02:21 PM

I hope you pinpoint the cause of the shorting fuse.

**Beats** · 02-29-2016 02:47 PM

Originally Posted by irobb

I hope you pinpoint the cause of the shorting fuse.

It's the wiring. When I cut off the wires the car starts fine and the fuse doesn't blow but when I put the wires back together the fuse blows. So it has to be the MAF wiring.

Edit: I figured out that the car doesn't crank when I have the MAF wiring connected. Also with the wires connected starting the car blows the fuse. So with the wires cut off the harness the car starts and fuse doesn't blow. So there is something going on with the wiring that I soldered onto the harness blowing the fuse on ignition.