Aux Coolant Pump - What clamps to get? DIY without removing IM.

[quattro_silver]

My aux coolant pump is leaking pretty bad and I want to change it. I bought the OEM pump & hoses, the only thing left to get is hose clamps. I've read
that the Norma Worm Drive clamps (20-32) are the ones to get but I'm having a hard time sourcing them. What clamps are you guys using when doing the
aux water pump?

(pic I found which appears to show the clamp, 20-32)


Also, I want to do this without removing the Intake Manifold. I've read the following DIY which indicate to remove the Y-pipe and a diverter valve. Is there much more to it than this? Thanks

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-r.../#post13870560

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-r.../#post14547593

[B501S4]

It is going to be tough without removing the manifold. Last time I did mine (before aux delete) I loosened all the bolts on the manifold, unclamped appropriate sensors, bi-pipes ect and lifted it slightly and supported with a bungee cord to have room to play with. You might get frustrated trying to contort around everything without removing it. Not saying it is impossible, but having done it both ways I would rather take a little time lifting the IM to gain access.

[xalents23]

As stated above removing the intake manifold will give you more room. I have tried both methods. If I had to do it again I would just remove the intake manifold. Below is a good how to if you plan on removing the intake manifold.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng69.shtml

[quattro_silver]

It is going to be tough without removing the manifold. Last time I did mine (before aux delete) I loosened all the bolts on the manifold, unclamped appropriate sensors, bi-pipes ect and lifted it slightly and supported with a bungee cord to have room to play with. You might get frustrated trying to contort around everything without removing it. Not saying it is impossible, but having done it both ways I would rather take a little time lifting the IM to gain access.

I'm thinking I may just remove the IM.. the car is old (200,000 mi). Do you think I would just need the 2 IM gaskets, or should I get the whole hardware kit too?

- - - Updated - - -

As stated above removing the intake manifold will give you more room. I have tried both methods. If I had to do it again I would just remove the intake manifold. Below is a good how to if you plan on removing the intake manifold.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng69.shtml

Thanks, I was looking at that and think I may just go that route. What clamps should I get for the aux water pump hoses?

[quattro_silver]

My list of things to replace for the Aux Water Pump:

- IM gasket (x2)
- Y-pipe hose clamps (x2)
- Aux Coolant Pump
- OE Coolant Pump Hoses (x2)
- Worm Drive Clamps for aux pump (20-32 size)
- lower temp coolant sensor

Anything else I need, or should replace while in there? Someone mentioned these sharkbite brass 90-degree fittings in one of the articles but I wasn't sure where
they intended to use it > http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite...LFA5/202270596

[Zba]

Just reuse the spring clamps on there.

[quattro_silver]

Just reuse the spring clamps on there.

Why not get new ones? I would hate to get it apart just to find out the clamps were causing the leak such as this guy had. I was juts trying to figure out which clamps to get (OEM or Norma Worm Drive)

He mentioned that > The spring clamps must lose tension over time. As shown in this article > http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-r.../#post14547593

[B501S4]

By hardware do you mean new Allen bolts? Unless they are cross threaded or rusted and brittle I would not worry about it and just go with the gaskets. Make sure to cover the ports in your head as pictured in the AW thread. Might also be worth looking into getting a magnetic allen driver to help with removing the bolts. It can get tight trying to get your fingers around them. Quick fix and less of a headache.

[xalents23]

Any heavy duty worm hose clamps should work just fine. Just don't get the cheap ones.

[MacDaddy]

I re used my spring clamps, and its not leaking, i suspect the above mentioned post the leak was caused by re using the old hose or a dirty/damaged metal pipe where it connects.

Coolant hoses squish when new, if you use worm clamps you may need to go back and re tighten them, with spring clamps you dont have that issue.

[Zba]

Its debatable if they lose tension after 150k miles or not. I think it's more due to the age of the rubber hose and the fact that the hose has compressed in that area to the point that the clamp is no longer in its effective range (due to years of heat cycling and compression the hose is essentially remolding itself). Personally I'd reuse the clamps. If youre really nervous about it get new spring clamps. Worm gears loosen up over time and need occasional retightening whereas the spring clamps don't. In a situation like this where half of the clamps are inaccessible I'd rather go with the set it and forget it clamps.

[quattro_silver]

does anyone have the manufacturer part # for the OE spring clamps? It seems like those would be the way to go.

Hopefully the manifold isn't that hard to move, this will be my first attempt at it. The thing that concerns me is all the vacuum hoses and lines that will need to be removed. I will have to buy
a bag of clamps for those at lowes.

A lot of people seem to break the Vacuum Check Valve, so I may just buy one in case.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_S4--2.7T/ES3314/

[jbain2]

I re-used my spring clamps as well. No issues. You can do it without completely removing the manifold. Loosen all the fuel stuff on top. Take bolts out of driver side all together. Loosen the bolts on the passenger side of the manifold enough that you can tilt the manifold up without actually having to take it and everything that sits on top of it off. The other thing to consider getting is the manifold gasket. Lastly make sure you tape up or block off the intake when the manifold comes off so you don't get crap in there. I would also get the low temp after run switch so you can actually put your new pump to work.


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[quattro_silver]

I re-used my spring clamps as well. No issues. You can do it without completely removing the manifold. Loosen all the fuel stuff on top. Take bolts out of driver side all together. Loosen the bolts on the passenger side of the manifold enough that you can tilt the manifold up without actually having to take it and everything that sits on top of it off. The other thing to consider getting is the manifold gasket. Lastly make sure you tape up or block off the intake when the manifold comes off so you don't get crap in there. I would also get the low temp after run switch so you can actually put your new pump to work.


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I was reading about this method as well. This may be the best way to go because then I will have access without having to remove everything. If I don't rmove the passenger side IM bolts, can I still replace the gasket?

[Zba]

does anyone have the manufacturer part # for the OE spring clamps? It seems like those would be the way to go.

N-102-581-01 quantity 4

And yes on that check valve

[quattro_silver]

N-102-581-01 quantity 4

And yes on that check valve

Thanks but I don't think those are the OEM ones. When I look them up on ECS it looks like they're
the word drive style with a screw. I guess I could use them but I was hoping to get the exact ones
on there now.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_S4--2.7T/ES263953/

[quattro_silver]

I'm looking at a DIY from this site > http://audisrs.com/ftopic49103-0-asc-0.php

Elsawin mentions to remove the Intake Manifold you have to:

1) Remove the Secondary Air Pump
2) Remove the Intake Manifold

Is it necessary to do #1 (remove the Secondary Air Pump) when removing the IM?

[Zba]

Weird. That number is from OE parts film.

Edit: looks like the spring clamps are listed with the relocated aux. water pump
N 906 870 01

[goalieman24]

I was reading about this method as well. This may be the best way to go because then I will have access without having to remove everything. If I don't rmove the passenger side IM bolts, can I still replace the gasket?

The bolts go through the gasket so you'd have to take them out. Though it wouldn't be hard to just quickly unscrew them the rest of the way to slide the gasket in. It would be silly to be that close and not put in a fresh gasket.

FWIW, I also did the method jbain posted. I briefly considered trying to do it without removing the IM but quickly realized having noodles for arms and baby-sized hands was the only way that was going to happen.

[quattro_silver]

Weird. That number is from OE parts film.

Edit: looks like the spring clamps are listed with the relocated aux. water pump
N 906 870 01

Thanks! I looked forever and couldn't find that part #. I see ECS has them using the # you just posted.

[vavJETTAw36]

Previous owner of my car relocated his. You should consider it. I think the heat messes with the longevity, but, it simply speeds up the inevitable failure of it
.

[erykv1]

Just remove the IM. It will save you a ton of time. Either relocate it or delete the pump / bypass it.

[quattro_silver]

Where do you buy a magnetic 5mm allen head (as shown in the picture)? I'm searching and don't see them coming up easily..

[jbain2]

Where do you buy a magnetic 5mm allen head (as shown in the picture)? I'm searching and don't see them coming up easily..

The picture shown is a standard Allen head with a small magnet attached to it. Frankly, I don't think you need it.

A lot of folks say to delete the pump. My original one lasted 15 years. Granted I only have 70k miles on my car. I felt like it was worthwhile to keep.


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[quattro_silver]

The picture shown is a standard Allen head with a small magnet attached to it. Frankly, I don't think you need it.

A lot of folks say to delete the pump. My original one lasted 15 years. Granted I only have 70k miles on my car. I felt like it was worthwhile to keep.


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How did he attach a magnet to it? Do they sell 5mm allen sockets (that are magnetic)?

[Zba]

I deleted my perfectly good pump using an 034 hose and my after run fan wouldn't run with the pump disconnected. Three months later the hose blew up. Put my pump back in lol. If the pump lasts 10 years, that's pretty good in my book.

[goalieman24]

A lot of folks say to delete the pump. My original one lasted 15 years. Granted I only have 70k miles on my car. I felt like it was worthwhile to keep.

That is my rationalization as well. The odds that someone owns one of these cars long enough to replace it more than once is rare. Deleting it saves a little bit of money(not even that much), relocating it seems unnecessary.
Keeping it + the low temp switch is where it's at.

How did he attach a magnet to it? Do they sell 5mm allen sockets (that are magnetic)?

The socket is metal. The magnet sticks to the metal.

[zillarob]

I deleted my perfectly good pump using an 034 hose and my after run fan wouldn't run with the pump disconnected. Three months later the hose blew up. Put my pump back in lol. If the pump lasts 10 years, that's pretty good in my book.

That is odd, my fan ran without the arp until I unhooked the switch.

[vavJETTAw36]

Maybe wrap the end with Teflon tape to snug it while you're putting your bolt in


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[Zba]

That is odd, my fan ran without the arp until I unhooked the switch.

Dunno, it never ran without it, I never looked into it since it worked after I put the pump back in

[quattro_silver]

Does anyone have the part # (ECS # if you have it) for the large clamp that holds the hose to the Y-Pipe? I had the the ECS # yesterday, but I can't seem to find it anymore, thanks.

EDIT* I called ECS and they said it was this one > https://www.ecstuning.com/ES7240/

[jbain2]

Does anyone have the part # (ECS # if you have it) for the large clamp that holds the hose to the Y-Pipe? I had the the ECS # yesterday, but I can't seem to find it anymore, thanks.

Any worm or t-bolt clamp from Home Depot will work.


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[zillarob]

http://www.partsbase.org/audi/audi-a...ge-air-cooler/