Cylinder head removal & cam chain

[Hotohori]

I’m looking to do a bit of work on my 2006 Audi A4 2.0T FSI B7 in the next couple of weeks. I’d like to be sure I have everything I need prior to starting the project, specifically the tools to complete the project.

I’m looking to pull the cylinder head in order to replace the cam chain and cam chain tensioner along with changing out the timing belt w/ rollers tensioner etc, and replace the valve, head, cam, exhaust, & intake gasket along the way. I’d also like to swap out the fuel filter, snub mount and cam follower.

The tools I have at the moment are an assortment of standard mechanics tools, along with an M8 Triple square. I’m looking to pick up an MNXZ10, MN3452 and a T10252 cam locking tool.

The main reason for the project is that the belt was thrown off time about 2 months ago where the cam sprocket was about 1” ahead of time. There doesn’t seem to be any valve damage as I was able to get the engine back in time and was able to start it up without any issues. I’ve been babying it for the last month (about 750 miles so far) and would like to assure whatever caused the jump is fixed. I did have a P000A error code at about 650 miles, I didn’t notice any issues with the engine and cleared the code, and it has yet to return.
There is also a bit of noise coming from the engine which seems to match internet videos of a cam chain tensioner failure. I did notice the timing belt tensioner was about 1cm over tightened after the initial jump and the belt seemed lose enough to pull off the sprockets without even loosening the tensioner. After readjusting the belt seems to be tight, but I’d rather replace the whole timing system in order to assure there isn’t a bad part in there.

Any information would be greatly appreciated before I start in on this project. Thank you for any and all help.

[aluthman]

I've pulled and disassembled my head numerous times now, so if you have a random question feel free to PM me. I go into detail with head disassembly in this thread:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ht=smoking+gun

I will add that the Elring Dirko I used to reseal my cam tray may not be the best choice in sealant. Elring AFD2018 would be a better choice. I will add though that multiple people have used Dirko without issue and I don't plan on re-doing my head simply to replace the sealant. If I open it up again, I will correct it then.

No, they are line bored and honed without sealant. The tray is meant to to allow unobstructed machined surface to machined surface contact where the bolts torque the cam saddles down. This is why the relatively thin, uniform and watery nature of the gasket comes in. It seals but doesnt distort the tray. Thick sealant almost acts like a suspension. It is silicone and its all over the place in terms of even distribution. As you torque the cam bolts down, there is probably some level of abnormal and unintended deflection in the cam saddles as a result of this.

[Okedokey]

Please post questions in here as I am scheduled to do the same so any learning experience would be appreciated.

[Hotohori]

Thank you for the info aluthman, I'll be sure to jump on when I start running into issues. My main goal was just to swap the cam chain tensioner and the timing set but I figured if I'm going to be in there I might as well replace a few other things that have either never been replaced or haven't been replaced in awhile.

[Solarsuplex]

My best advice is to label the shit out of every screw/bolt/nut that you remove. Its easy to start taking things off, but then you are left with a pile of shit that is confusing to put back on.

[vvenom800tt]

Hondabond is the best sealant ever. Like seriously, its like gray magic

[Hotohori]

Got the parts in last week and just started in today. I have the front end torn out down to the timing belt and the High Pressure Fuel Injector out. The Cam Follower looked like it was just about time for it to be swapped out with a little bit of black still on it around the rims but no apparent indentation. Tomorrow I'll be aiming for the exhaust and intake manifolds along with the Cylinder head if all goes well. Looking at the exhaust manifold through, I can see 4 nuts holding it on slightly covered by a sheet of metal. The Sheet appear to be held on with two T40 and two 18mm bolts. I was able to break one of the T40's free but the other stripped out. Is it possible to remove the manifold without removing the metal sheet? I already put everything up for the night but I found a picture of what it looks like, it would be the torx on the right hand side.

http://imgur.com/Kf33XpE

[aluthman]

You need something like this to get it out:


I had one strip the last time I removed that heat shield and that's how I got it out. Just tap it onto the head of the bolt with a hammer and then back it out with a ratchet. Alternatively, you could try taking a cut off wheel and cutting a slot in it to try to use a screwdriver.

[Hotohori]

Sorry for the slow reply, between work and working on the car, there is little free time.
I've just about finished putting it all back together, I began a test start once the radiator was hooked up yesterday, however I seem to have a fuel leak under the HPFP at the banjo bolt (M8 Triple Square)
I've been trying to re-seat it without much luck, I was able to get it to a slow drip by over tightening it (Not to the point it will break or strip), but it doesn't seem the fuel is reaching the injectors.

[aluthman]

You will need to crank a bit to fully prime the fuel system to get it to start. I would take care of that fuel leak first though, as even a small drip will cause a large fire.

[Hotohori]

I took off the intake manifold and fuel pump to bolt them together prior to putting them back in to assure the bolt's were completely tightened, but I'm still getting a leak at the banjo bolt. Is there supposed to be a washer or O ring between the banjo bolt and the brass fitting? I didn't notice one taking it off and couldn't find anything online about it. I know there's an O ring for the pump itself, but nothing on the banjo bolt fitting. My current assumption is either I'm missing something small, such as a washer, or when I attempted to tighten the banjo bolt the first time I cross threaded it in the brass fitting. When I had it out, the bolt seemed fine, and I couldn't see any noticeable damage to the fitting, but it may be my only option, unless I buy a kit to convert to the bamboo style line.

[Muggerrudd]

i could be wrong but shouldnt there be a crush washer on both sides of the banjo?

[aluthman]

i could be wrong but shouldnt there be a crush washer on both sides of the banjo?

Negative. Mine has no crush washers and doesn't leak.

[Allohra]

I'm working on removing the head on my B7 I just got for free. I know there are bent valves at a minimum due to the timing belt breaking. Do you have a diy guide for this? I'm using all data but steps are missing I believe. Its rusted to heck and I want to avoid removing the cat. Any tips and help would be greatly app6

[forger]

Though it's been a while since anyone has responded to this thread, I would like to ask do I need to remove the exhaust manifold and turbo in order to take out the head? I attempted to remove the head with the exhaust bolts removed and intake manifold detached. The exhaust manifold seems to be sitting on top of a strip of metal that is attached to the head making it difficult to slide it out. Thanks.