Timing tensioner failure - Lucky me, 3 codes: p0011, p0016 & p0299 - Now with Pics

[Allowencer]

Drove the car to hockey - no issues. Come out to go get some food and it wouldn't start by just pushing the fob once. I had to hold the fob down for a few seconds in order to get the car to start.
Driving it - it has almost no acceleration, as if its in limp mode. Car has almost 110k miles on it. Codes:
p0011 - Bank 1 camshaft A (intake) retard setpoint not reached
P0016 - bank 1: CMP sensor / Engine Speed Sensor
P0299 - Boost Pressure regulation: Control range not reached

My gut tells me a bad DV wouldn't cause cam timing issues right?

Am I that lucky that the timing tensioner is toast and possibly the timing jumped a tooth? Is it a belt or chain on these cars?

Could I have both issues, timing and DV issue?

Car: 2010 A4 2.0

Thanks for any insight. I will prolly start to diagnose it more tomorrow morning; just pulled the codes tonight and want to go to bed (before I break something).

[van462]

You may want to be very careful how you proceed. With the P0016 code if you may have caught it in time before the valves have struck the pistons. At a minimum remove the upper timing chain cover and spark plugs. From the bottom rotate the crank with a breaker bar and verify the timing marks on the 2 cam sprockets as well as feel for resistance. Likely time for a chain and tensioner replacement. I wouldn't run the motor if you don't have too.

I wouldn't worry about the P0299 yet. But you could always do the quick check on the wastegate actuator rod. See http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...lapper-(P0299)

[Allowencer]

That's what I was afraid of. Dummy me, thinking the turbo died or the DV was shot or the cat was blown, rev'd the motor to try and test / isolate behavior. Once I got it home to get my VAG and scan it, I wanted to punch myself when I saw the code.

I know these motors are pretty tight to tolerances, but they aren't interference ones to begin with right? I might be safe if I'm off a tooth then (hopefully / thankfully).

B8's have a belt or chain for timing?

It's fairly quick to get to the timing cover for the cam's right? I'm a very comfortable working on the car; worked on so many I should be a mechanic, just haven't dug deep into this motor per my resume.

When you say "feel for resistance", what do you mean by that? Meaning the motor may not turn 'as nice' because the timing tensioner is maxed out?

[Jacon]

Timing chain.

[zokissima]

Our timing cover, or cam bridge, is different than the earlier motors. It's still pretty accessible, but you have to remove the fuel lines, fuel pump, and front chain cover. Just doing mine right now, but @*#$&% sheared a bolt for one of them. Should be interesting getting it out.

[Allowencer]

ok, well for sure its the timing chain tensioner. As I started to do some research, its a 'known' issues. Here are some references:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAdSyBRHOPs
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...4&postcount=95 <-- should link to post #95
http://shopdap.com/2-0t-vw-and-audi-...oner-problems/

zokissima, not sure what you're referring to, but the top timing inspection cover, once I got under the hood, is simple to remove. 3 bolts for the intake cam sensor and then 5 bolts you unscrew (they stay in the cover) - it slides right out. Had to deal with the oil dipstick anchors too (not a lot of room to work with) but its doable.

Getting back on topic, I was under the car rotating the motor while the wife was watching up top (I explained to her what to look for to let me know when to stop) and all of a sudden I heard something I shouldn't. I asked her wtf was that? She says, the chain jumped! Good lord. I have pics I'll post in a minute.

My concern is if I bent valves or not. I cannot think of a way to verify this without literally pulling the head. Any ideas from anyone? I was thinking I could pull the intake manifold and that would let me see the intakes valves but I think with all the carbon build up, I may not even be able to see anything definitively or not.

EDIT: added another reference link

[blbroo]

Were you hearing any abnormal sounds leading up to this? I talked to a local Audi service manager and he acted like the timing chain maintenance was a waste unless you start hearing chain slapping noises or get other issues. Seems to me, by that time, it's too late.

[Allowencer]

No noise at all. Drove it to hockey; come back out post game and it wouldn't start normally (as I mentioned in the first post). This sucks... Trying to figure out all the parts I need now.

To that point, the tensioner that has the 'N' in the part number is the one known to fail. The locking function, which prevents the tensioner from depressing, breaks when the clip pops off. See my links above. This can happen at anytime.

[o1turbo30v]

No noise at all. Drove it to hockey; come back out post game and it wouldn't start normally (as I mentioned in the first post). This sucks... Trying to figure out all the parts I need now.

To that point, the tensioner that has the 'N' in the part number is the one known to fail. The locking function, which prevents the tensioner from depressing, breaks when the clip pops off. See my links above. This can happen at anytime.

How many miles are on your car?

[Allowencer]

How many miles are on your car?

110k miles (was in the original post too).

[blbroo]

No noise at all. Drove it to hockey; come back out post game and it wouldn't start normally (as I mentioned in the first post). This sucks... Trying to figure out all the parts I need now.

To that point, the tensioner that has the 'N' in the part number is the one known to fail. The locking function, which prevents the tensioner from depressing, breaks when the clip pops off. See my links above. This can happen at anytime.

Thanks. No way to know what tensioner I have without cracking the thing open though, right?

[Lambda13]

110k miles (was in the original post too).

Europa has a timing chain maintenance kit. Check it out https://www.europaparts.com/timing-c...0t-tsi-af.html

[Allowencer]

Thanks. No way to know what tensioner I have without cracking the thing open though, right?

It's possible but not the easiest thing; check out this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAdSyBRHOPs

[o1turbo30v]

110k miles (was in the original post too).

So the standard get rid of them before they hit 100,000 miles still holds true. Good luck with the fix.

[Allowencer]

Europa has a timing chain maintenance kit. Check it out https://www.europaparts.com/timing-c...0t-tsi-af.html

Yeah, I saw they do along with RSW.

I gave them a call, they almost seemed like they didn't want to talk to me. So they are the last on my list now.

Called Excellerate Performance and they are putting something together for me and calling me back.
Called RSW and they are putting something together for me and calling me back too.

Looks like I will be ripping the car apart as much as I can for the day. Will start on it in a few hours.

EDIT: I just caught your sig too: "Member of the Pedal Responce Board of Directors" - ROFL that's great

[jfo]

Thanks. No way to know what tensioner I have without cracking the thing open though, right?

My dealer changed the tensioner when they did the stage 2 fix. Since it's a 2011, it would seem that they were still using the old style through that MY.

[Allowencer]

So the standard get rid of them before they hit 100,000 miles still holds true. Good luck with the fix.

Doing some searching here, it seems like its common from 80k and upward. Here are a few more guys:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...t=timing+chain
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ensioner-Study <-- His didn't fail, he changed it out before it could
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11370828 <-- not sure if his failed or he's doing preventive maintenance
There's another one that I 'lost' and he had the engine replaced by dealership cause it failed (was still under warranty)


Edit: another Audizine member that had it fail on him:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11400899

Someone TTT'd a thread from Oct 2015:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...sioner-Failure
And another from the same time frame:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11413567

While this guy's car was in for stage 2 oil consumption, dealer noticed the bad tensioner and recommended replacement:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...t-67-000-miles

09' Jetta member who posted here for help:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ite-directions

Unfortunately the tensioner bit another Audizine member (5-6-16):
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11609699

Audizine member (5-26-16):
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-Car-need-help

Audizine member (5-27-16):
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...s-to-turn-over

[Lambda13]

Yeah, I saw they do along with RSW.

I gave them a call, they almost seemed like they didn't want to talk to me. So they are the last on my list now.

Called Excellerate Performance and they are putting something together for me and calling me back.
Called RSW and they are putting something together for me and calling me back too.

Looks like I will be ripping the car apart as much as I can for the day. Will start on it in a few hours.

EDIT: I just caught your sig too: "Member of the Pedal Responce Board of Directors" - ROFL that's great

Haha, glad you liked it.

Really? That sounds very unlike the experiences I've had with them. I e-mailed them about that kit and they even went so far as to take my VIN and list out each part I'd need to do my own timing chain. I just bought 3 oil change kits and got a free flash light and license plate bracket.

Try giving them a call again given they have such an extensive kit available.

[Allowencer]

My dealer changed the tensioner when they did the stage 2 fix. Since it's a 2011, it would seem that they were still using the old style through that MY.

Had I 'known' the knowledge I do now, I would have done the same too. My S2 fix was done in 2014 IIRC...

What I've found, hunting around the internet, it looks like the 2013's started with the new tensioner.

[Allowencer]

Haha, glad you liked it.

Really? That sounds very unlike the experiences I've had with them. I e-mailed them about that kit and they even went so far as to take my VIN and list out each part I'd need to do my own timing chain. I just bought 3 oil change kits and got a free flash light and license plate bracket.

Try giving them a call again given they have such an extensive kit available.

Should I post in that thread about my 'terrible pedal response' cause my timing is jacked? LOL

OK - I'll do that now.

[Allowencer]

I got a different guy this time, more knowledgeable and was friendly. Good call on calling them back :)

[Lambda13]

I got a different guy this time, more knowledgeable and was friendly. Good call on calling them back :)

Nice.

[Fburg A4]

man I should change mine out before I'm stuck in this boat. i am at 120k and I have nightmares of a piston vs. valve death match inside my engine

[van462]

I changed my chain and tensioner over New Years. You can get by fairly cheap by shopping around. Europa parts had the chain for $89, I had previously picked up a tensioner for around $80 as well. May as well grab a new front main seal for $15. I only used two special tools the crank spacer and the cam bridge tool. I made a set of front carriage supports out of some metal rod I had laying around. The worst part of the tear down for me is disconnecting the lines to the transmission cooler (fluid loss) and getting the condenser off. I ended up cutting part of the driver side air dam clips as I believe the factory mounts the condensor, adds the lines and then charges the. I was able to remove the condenser with the lines intact and swing it out of the way before I removed the front support.

I am stealing the below from A4BPG as its concise and added in my comments.

Remove front bumper
Remove rubber air dams
Remove crash bar and head lights
Remove crash bar supports (16mm bolts) (Remove the top bolt first and inset a threaded rod approx 10" long in this hole. This will give you guides to move carrier and maintain alignment. Then remove the lower 2 bolts. Once the condenser line side I removed the aluminum crash support to give the lines more room to move.
Remove Intercooler
Swing AC Condenser aside (I
Drain coolant by twisting valve many turns. ( I just yanked the lower hose, I love these quick disconnects)
Unhook tranny oil line ( if so equipped) (Be ready to cap rather quickly)
Unplug fans and remove rad.
Unscrew lower rack carrier braces
Remove lock carrier (rad support)
If you don't feel comfortable getting to this point, perhaps this shouldn't be attempted.

Next is the engine:
Unhook turbo coolant hose and swing aside.
Remove serpentine belt, tensioner and idler.
Remove crank pulley and install T10368 spacer.
Remove cam actuator. (and Upper timing chain cover)
Remove exh cam bolt.
Remove LH THREAD valve with T10352/1
Remove cam bridge, verify on the backside the there is a screen there. If the screen is gone look for a check valve ball behind it. Once the cam bridge is removed check cam surfaces for scarring
Remove lower cover (try not to destroy it! It's on there solid!)
Remove oil pump tensioner and unhook chain.
Remove upper chain guide rails.( I didn't do this)
Remove chain and shit yourself when intake cam slams forward! ( I used my old chain and ran it from the intake cam to the crank. I then backed it up using the crank bolt to just before the valve springs cause it to cam out of position. The timing mark will be in the 11 oclock position)
Remove old tenisoner and top guide. ( I only removed the 2 long side guides. On the intake side unspring the the spring tensioner)

Because I used the crank to move the intake cam it was not out of orientation to the cams. I installed the timing chain aligning the top two colored plates to the cam gear marks. I then squeezed the chain in the middle just as the tensioner would and the intake cam jumped into position. This now transferred the chain slack from between the cams to the crank. I then verified I had guessed the right spot. You now have enough slack to adjust the crank by a tooth if you need to. Have a ziptie hand to tie around the timing chain above the crank so you can install the guides and tensioner without the valve spring tension trying to make it jump. Once the tensioner in and the cam bridge is in place, turn a few times to verify the chain is now running smooth. All the jerkiness I had from the old chain was gone. This also verifies you don't have valve to piston contact.

I had used permatex anaerobic sealant on the timing chain cover as I usually prefer them. But I had tweaked my cover ever so slightly and anaerobic are not good gap fillers (they don't cure in the presence of air). So I had an minor oil leak and had the pleasure of doing another teardown the following weekend. I used permatex ultra black RTV this tims as it has better gap filling and would cure in any gaps. This stuff has a high oil resistance as well.

I was going to do a DIY but I have horrible lighting and Once my hands get that dirty I do not touch phones or cameras.

[Allowencer]

In 3 hours, got the whole front end of the car apart and started to disconnect some of the sensors on the front of the motor (not bad considering I have no book, manual, guide and the first time doing this on an Audi A4 motor). Before I called it a night, I popped open the golf ball size inspection cover right in front of the tensioner. Oh yeah, its toast. The plunger moves in and out freely as you rotate the motor .

I tried to see where the timing 'might' be; I soon came to realize I was chasing my tail trying to line up the cam sprockets cause nothing was even coming close. I then decided, since I knew based on the chain markings what compression stroke the car was in I was close to TDC. I popped a long screwdriver down the spark plug of cylinder 1, ID'd TDC and the exhaust cam sprocket looks to be 3 teeth retarded (to the right when looking dead on at it). So.... yeah... the cylinder head is coming off for sure. I needed to do the carbon cleanup anyways since its never been done on the motor and I've had random, small amount of misfires. Well, that head is going to get an overhaul now.

When I talked to the 3 companies I mentioned above that I called, all of them agreed with me that more than likely valves are bent. My concern now is how much damage is on the tops of the pistons. Usually they win, but I've seen carnage in other motors before (I've worked on many; first time going this deep on one of these).

I got [bad] pics; I'll see if I can put them on FB and link them here since you can't upload much to this forum.

[Allowencer]

I changed my chain and tensioner over New Years. You can get by fairly cheap by shopping around. Europa parts had the chain for $89, I had previously picked up a tensioner for around $80 as well. May as well grab a new front main seal for $15. I only used two special tools the crank spacer and the cam bridge tool. I made a set of front carriage supports out of some metal rod I had laying around. The worst part of the tear down for me is disconnecting the lines to the transmission cooler (fluid loss) and getting the condenser off. I ended up cutting part of the driver side air dam clips as I believe the factory mounts the condensor, adds the lines and then charges the. I was able to remove the condenser with the lines intact and swing it out of the way before I removed the front support.

I am stealing the below from A4BPG as its concise and added in my comments.

Remove front bumper
Remove rubber air dams
Remove crash bar and head lights
Remove crash bar supports (16mm bolts) (Remove the top bolt first and inset a threaded rod approx 10" long in this hole. This will give you guides to move carrier and maintain alignment. Then remove the lower 2 bolts. Once the condenser line side I removed the aluminum crash support to give the lines more room to move.
Remove Intercooler
Swing AC Condenser aside (I
Drain coolant by twisting valve many turns. ( I just yanked the lower hose, I love these quick disconnects)
Unhook tranny oil line ( if so equipped) (Be ready to cap rather quickly)
Unplug fans and remove rad.
Unscrew lower rack carrier braces
Remove lock carrier (rad support)
If you don't feel comfortable getting to this point, perhaps this shouldn't be attempted.

Next is the engine:
Unhook turbo coolant hose and swing aside.
Remove serpentine belt, tensioner and idler.
Remove crank pulley and install T10368 spacer.
Remove cam actuator. (and Upper timing chain cover)
Remove exh cam bolt.
Remove LH THREAD valve with T10352/1
Set cover aside.
Remove lower cover (try not to destroy it! It's on there solid!)
Remove oil pump tensioner and unhook chain.
Remove upper chain guide rails.( I didn't do this)
Remove chain and shit yourself when intake cam slams forward! ( I used my old chain and ran it from the intake cam to the crank. I then backed it up using the crank bolt to just before the valve springs cause it to cam out of position. The timing mark will be in the 11 oclock position)
Remove old tenisoner and top guide. ( I only removed the 2 long side guides. On the intake side unspring the the spring tensioner)

Because I used the crank to move the intake cam it was not out of orientation to the cams. I installed the timing chain aligning the top two colored plates to the cam gear marks. I then squeezed the chain in the middle just as the tensioner would and the intake cam jumped into position. This now transferred the chain slack from between the cams to the crank. I then verified I had guessed the right spot. You now have enough slack to adjust the crank by a tooth if you need to. Have a ziptie hand to tie around the timing chain above the crank so you can install the guides and tensioner without the valve spring tension trying to make it jump. Once the tensioner in and the cam bridge is in place, turn a few times to verify the chain is now running smooth. All the jerkiness I had from the old chain was gone. This also verifies you don't have valve to piston contact.

I had used permatex anaerobic sealant on the timing chain cover as I usually prefer them. But I had tweaked my cover ever so slightly and anaerobic are not good gap fillers (they don't cure in the presence of air). So I had an minor oil leak and had the pleasure of doing another teardown the following weekend. I used permatex ultra black RTV this tims as it has better gap filling and would cure in any gaps. This stuff has a high oil resistance as well.

I was going to do a DIY but I have horrible lighting and Once my hands get that dirty I do not touch phones or cameras.

Hey Van463, looks like you and I were posting at the same time. I saw A4BPG's post in that other thread and used it as a guide too. It is fairly straight forward as he said if you've worked on cars, like pretty indepth. Few things I'll comment on from the list:

I have a MT so no trans cooler - lucky me :)

Remove crash bar supports (16mm bolts) (Remove teh top bolt first and inset a threaded rod approx 10" long in this hole. This will give you guides to move carrier and maintain alignment. ten remove the lower 2 bolts. One the condensor line side I removed the aluminum crash support to give the lines more room to move

I don't understand what he means by that. I pulled the bottom 2 bolts first and then the (2x) 10mm alignment nut/washer on top and then the top bolts. It came right out - no issues. I'm not sure how this 'maintains alignment' when you have to remove it anyways.
The A/C condensing unit - I was able to rotate it 90* clockwise and 'rigged' up a method to hold it next to the front fender. There's soft A/C lines that allow this play without any issues. Kinda to what he said, you can swing it out of the way.
When you said you cut the factory holder - that's on the radiator itself right? You know there's bolts on the passenger side that help slide it up and out; I think they were like T-15's or something (little smaller). It took a little fin-nag-giling but I was able to make due.

I'll buy whatever tools I need to help with the timing and alignment. I don't mind and don't like screwing around with that kind of stuff. I don't want to spend hours on insuring and re-assuring the timing is correct. F that LOL.

Good idea on the zip tie - I will keep that in mind.

At this point I'm taking the cylinder head off because of what happened to me so I get to figure it all out from square 1 - yay....

[van462]

The two alignment rods are used for two things. First if you are just sliding the core fwd leaving the radiator hoses connected to gain a little room. Second they help on installation the core is supported on the rods a few inches out from finial position. You can then go underneath and guide in the lower supports. Then slide it all in place. If you are doing it by yourself its really handy as it supports it while you but the bolts back in. Kind of like using a cut off bolt when mounting a transmission for alignment.

[Allowencer]

I guess I'm not following along. I see what you're saying on the alignment threads where the 10mm nut/washers go, but I dont get what A4BPG was saying/advising on.
When you talk about the 'lower supports', are you referring to the lower supports for the front, metal core and not the aluminum bumper support one?

[van462]

I actually added that part to his thread. I left the passenger side crash bar support in place. I remove the top 16mm bolt and insert a threaded rod there. Then remove the lower two bolts per side. On the driver side I had removed the crash bar support to give me more room on the condenser. The supports are the two metal rectangular tubing that brace the carrier on the bottom of the car. I was most worried about that much weight hanging off the two top corners near the front corner panels.

[Allowencer]

This is for zokissima and whoever else would like to see how to get to the cam sprockets to view / verifytiing. Here is the timing cover:

It's staring right at you on the front of the motor, once the engine cover is removed and right next to the oil filter. In the picture, I've already removed the 3 bolts and the intake cam sensor. To remove that, just unplug the sensor, the 3 bolts and it falls out in your hand.
The cover has 5 bolts with a few in odd angles. One you have to remove the 2 bolts that hold the oil breather / oil dipstick (as most of us have converted it over to) so you can move the dipstick out of the way and get to that one bolt.
The front core gets in the way of getting to these with a standard T-27 and T-30 bit, so I had the same sizes in the small 1/4" size bits and used a 1/4" ratching open end to get to them. Tricky and the hardest part is to not drop the 1/4" bit LOL. I actually batted 1.00 during this; no drops. The bolts don't come completely out of the cover, they have retainers. Make sure they are completely loosened and extended as far as you believe they can. You'll know if they aren't far enough out when you try to remove the cover and an area is stuck/hung.
Here are the postion of the 5 bolts:
One at side and at the bottom of the passenger side:

One on top on the driver side and the one behind the oil dipstick (I have the bolts out that hold the dipstick in place already; they are T-30's IIRC

And one on the direct bottom:

Once all bolts are completely backed out, the cover slides right off and you can now see this:


To get back on topic, per what I said above on how the chain was jumping; you can see in the pic above that the chain was stuck ON the teeth of the sproket on the exhaust cam sproket (left).

Here's some more pics of what I did today/what I got accomplished:
Front bumper cover/facia and headlights removed:



Removed the aluminum front bumper crash support bar, unbolted the A/C condensing unit and swung it off to the drivers side (like my rig? LOL):

Radiator removed:

Front core frame/support removed:


Full access to the motor now:

[Allowencer]

I actually added that part to his thread. I left the passenger side crash bar support in place. I remove the top 16mm bolt and insert a threaded rod there. Then remove the lower two bolts per side. On the driver side I had removed the crash bar support to give me more room on the condenser. The supports are the two metal rectangular tubing that brace the carrier on the bottom of the car. I was most worried about that much weight hanging off the two top corners near the front corner panels.

I think I'm getting it now, you didn't completely remove it, you set yourself up to just give you more room / move things out of the way so you can get to the front of the motor. I've just gone ahead and removed it all - I want my space! Not like it was really much 'more' work anyways.

[Allowencer]

First off, can you guys see the pics?

Well I was hoping to have the head off by now to verify if pistons met any valves, but you actually do need some special tools. I bought a 5 year subscription to the Audi B8 2.0 alldatadiy; its been helpful on a few things. It even stated in there some of the special tools. Maybe it was me being dense and not understanding what I was looking at, but I 'get it' now.

I've ordered this kit: http://www.toolsource.com/cylinder-t...-p-150767.html; it's pretty complete for what you'll need.
I also ordered the head bolt bits: http://www.toolsource.com/audi-head-...-p-114980.html. After reading up on the MK6 forums, it seems normal torx bits are not the best. I'd rather not screw anything up.
I went ahead and got these too: http://www.toolsource.com/locking-audi-p-99938.html. I'm sure I could have found some picks and small screw drivers that might have done the same thing, but for a few more bucks, I got everything I would ever need.

I will comment, pulling the turbo off and the manifold, good lord was that a big pain. Getting to the wastegate's actuactor's bracket, the lower, closest exhaust manifold bolt and the coolant banjo bolt for the turbo ate a ton of time up. I went back and found some threads here of everyone complaing about it too.

I inspected the turbo, sure enough the wastegate flap spins and doesn't seat properly. I found all the info here; sadly enough it looks like I'm going to have to invest in a different turbo now too. Debating on going with the F23L instead of a K04 as I don't want to get that crazy.

Oh, motor mounts are shot too - no surprise there.

[Allowencer]

Intake off:


110k miles of carbon (not too bad considering the mileage)



Look at how thick that stuff built up!

[blbroo]

Wow, real work there. Thanks for sharing the progress and pics.

[van462]

Were both motor mounts bad or just the turbo side. It seems to be the on that fails first.

[BaysideS4]

Thanks. No way to know what tensioner I have without cracking the thing open though, right?

Get a mirror and buy the $9 cap. There's a plug you can remove from the lower timing chain cover to see what version you have. If there's a black sleeve, you have a problem. It likely requires draining the oil.

[jfo]

Maybe time for a waterpump while it's opened up, given the age/mileage.

[Allowencer]

Were both motor mounts bad or just the turbo side. It seems to be the on that fails first.

You're not kidding. "Hot dog down a hallway" comes to mind for the turbo/passenger side. It's whored out big time. The driver side isn't 'as' bad, but is bad enough (I figured by now with this many miles it's lived its life).

Get a mirror and buy the $9 cap. There's a plug you can remove from the lower timing chain cover to see what version you have. If there's a black sleeve, you have a problem. It likely requires draining the oil.

Yep^, there's a black retaining ring that goes around the locking clamp/pin. This is what fails and allows the piston to move freely. This video shows exactly what to do and what to look for:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G65J1aEszyc

Maybe time for a waterpump while it's opened up, given the age/mileage.

I've thought about it too since it's literally 'right there' and coolant has been drained. Appreciate another conscience to convince me

Off to the side question: anyone know how I can change the title of this thread? I'd like more people to be aware. I did the 'double click' next to the thread's title in the forum's index; I get the text box but when I hit [enter], nothing happens. Tried a few different computers too. I also don't get an option under 'thread tools' at the top. I tried changing the title on the 1st post, but it only update it on 'the' first post itself.

Guess it's time to update my 'build thread too' lol

[jfo]

I've thought about it too since it's literally 'right there' and coolant has been drained. Appreciate another conscience to convince me

Here's a good DIY with some useful tips.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...mp-Replacement

[Allowencer]

Here's a good DIY with some useful tips.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...mp-Replacement

Thanks buddy!