Hello Audizine I have a question!

[roman815]

I have a question in regards to an audi I am looking to buy from a friend of mine. He had bought a 2001 Audi a4 1.8 L v5 quattro with turbo a few months back for 3 or 4 thousand. While driving it home after purchasing it the car blew up on him. He told me when it happened that the heat gauge was all the way to H meaning it was overheating. He ended up getting it home but it had minimal power (from what he told me). I went to check it out and there was no oil in it. So what I did was put 2 quartz of oil and filled it up with water as it was low as well. I started her up and instantly a cloud of white smoke came out of the exhaust. I let it run for around 5 minutes and the entire time this white smoke was coming out the exhaust. The thermometer gauge never fluctuated or got hot. I shut it off and checked to see and all the oil was gone and the water was fine it did not change. Also, when it was running the engine sounded a little weird almost like a diesel but not super noticeable. From my research and asking around it seems that it's either a head gasket or a cracked piston ring. Is this something that I want to get in to? I'll probably offer him 800 for it and I have around 1500 to spend on whatever I may need to fix. What do you guys think?

[MarcRogers]

If I where you I would buy a new motor the head gasket is done. You might have wrapped the head as well. They're aluminum so it doesn't take much, as far as it sounding like a diesel it's because there was no oil in it I don't know if it's as far as it being a ring but that's a lot to look into you have to do a motor tear down. In my opinion buy a new motor they're not that expensive if you can find one in a part out which there is 99% chance you can buy it. Now my question is do you plan on doing any performance work on the car?


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[pbcrazy]

Just curious, but why did you decide to put 2 quarts of oil in a car that needs 4-4.5 and proceed to turn it on and run it (and didn't turn it off after it was pouring out smoke and it sounded like a diesel)?

Anyway, my guess would be the water pump went out and the engine overheated. As if the engine wasn't already toast from driving it when it was overheated, you just secured yourself a spot on the new engine or serious rebuild list for your wonderful performance in running an engine without oil.

[roman815]

What other motors are compatible with an audi? I know a volkswagen passat has the same engine. She's gonna be my daily driver if I decide to get it.

[MarcRogers]

Any b5 motor from 96-01 thing is that majority are 20v instead of 5v which is better in my opinion. The difference with the 01 motors is that there 180hp stock instead of 150hp in the previous years. But if it's a daily it dosent really matter. If your real picky about it get a tune and enjoy it.


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[pbcrazy]

Any b5 motor from 96-01 thing is that majority are 20v instead of 5v which is better in my opinion.

No, he has an AWM engine currently, while you could swap other engines in, the easiest would be by far sticking with the AWM so all the wiring is the same (I don't think ATW would be horrible, but somebody correct me if I'm wrong. AEB is DBC which would require quite a bit of changing). Also 5v is the same exact thing as 20v, a 5v just means there is 5 valves per cylinder, in the 1.8T there are 4 cylinders (5 valves x 4 cylinders = 20 valves (20v)).

The difference with the 01 motors is that there 180hp stock instead of 150hp in the previous years. But if it's a daily it dosent really matter. If your real picky about it get a tune and enjoy it.

That's just the difference in the factory tune, the engines produce the exact same (or dang close) with an equivalent tune.

[MarcRogers]

Yea the AEB is different I'm not sure of DBC I've never herd of it. But the AEB has substantially less to it that's the motor I have.


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[vrmm]

That'd be an me3/5 to me7 which is pedals, throttle body, 02's, whole wiring harness and some other stuff I don't recall. I haven't thought about it for longer than 5 minutes. People do it sure, but not any I've read for the reason you need. Check out car-part.com for a used engine.

I'm no meX swap wizard, but could he get an aeb shortblock, small port aeb head(or large if required) and an awm intake manifold/just use what he has? Do awm heads have vvt that's required or.... What're the sensors that aren't gonna swap? I'd assume if it was that simple no one would jump the gun and start swapping harnesses.

[pbcrazy]

I'm no meX swap wizard, but could he get an aeb shortblock, small port aeb head(or large if required) and an awm intake manifold/just use what he has? Do awm heads have vvt that's required or.... What're the sensors that aren't gonna swap? I'd assume if it was that simple no one would jump the gun and start swapping harnesses.

Don't quote me on this as I am an AEB guy that has only heard about this, but I believe you can use an AEB head on and AWM block and just disregard the vvt. That being said, if the cylinder walls are scratched to hell from running without oil, I would think it would just be easier to start from scratch and go back to OEM to minimize potiential complications (unless he can only find an AEB head and his is cracked/warped)

[vrmm]

I think you're correct about just not using vvt. I'm an aeb dewd too, so I have no actual experience with it. I was just thinking in terms of possibly finding aeb bits more easily and not that he should just jump on that from the get go.

I actually just posted on this thread to ask why he only chose to put two quarts in, but decided it wasn't helpful :p
But perhaps it's a question that needs answered. When you say " I went to check it out and there was no oil in it. So what I did was put 2 quartz of oil" Does that mean literally no oil as in you pulled the drain plug and no oil came out, it just didn't register on the dipstick until two quarts was added, or it wasn't at the full mark until two quarts were added? It wouldn't not read on the dipstick until (guesstimate) 1.3 quarts were gone. So lets say it was full after he put two quarts in. Then it'd only have lost 1.3 (maybe more but lets assume not). Which would be fine to idle....

Do you know how many miles he drove with it overheating? Oiled or not it's probably still warped, but maybe not... If he only drove it for a mile or so with it spewing water and oil into the cylinders that would obviously limit power, but maybe not warp it if it wasn't too far? I have never done that to a car, so i'm not sure what the steps are and what the time frame is.

[melomandn]

Good. God.


That engine is shot, R.I.P, call the coroner.

Is carrying out a complete engine swap something you're capable of and have the time/space for? If not, stay far away. If you want to continue and buy the car, your best bet is to find a COMPLETE engine from an AWM car. I say complete because that turbo is either dead or on its deathbed as well.


Also for the new guys

DBC = Drive By Cable
5v = 5 valves per cylinder (if a four cylinder B5 is referred to as a 5v, that means it has 20v total)

[roman815]

You think its that bad? Well I'm going to offer him 500 and I think the highest I'll go is 800 nothing more. It'll be a fun project just got to find the right motor at the right price

[El Jefe Libano]

I think you're correct about just not using vvt. I'm an aeb dewd too, so I have no actual experience with it. I was just thinking in terms of possibly finding aeb bits more easily and not that he should just jump on that from the get go.

I actually just posted on this thread to ask why he only chose to put two quarts in, but decided it wasn't helpful :p
But perhaps it's a question that needs answered. When you say " I went to check it out and there was no oil in it. So what I did was put 2 quartz of oil" Does that mean literally no oil as in you pulled the drain plug and no oil came out, it just didn't register on the dipstick until two quarts was added, or it wasn't at the full mark until two quarts were added? It wouldn't not read on the dipstick until (guesstimate) 1.3 quarts were gone. So lets say it was full after he put two quarts in. Then it'd only have lost 1.3 (maybe more but lets assume not). Which would be fine to idle....

Do you know how many miles he drove with it overheating? Oiled or not it's probably still warped, but maybe not... If he only drove it for a mile or so with it spewing water and oil into the cylinders that would obviously limit power, but maybe not warp it if it wasn't too far? I have never done that to a car, so i'm not sure what the steps are and what the time frame is.

Still no answer though


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[roman815]

Sorry just saw this! I checked the dipstick and it was very low/nothing really in it. I don't think he drove it too far I'll have to ask him. It ran until the oil light came on then we shut it off.

[vrmm]

A quart of oil in 5 minutes is a hell of a lot to use. I wouldn't have even guessed it would run. Did it idle at 800 steadily? I can't imagine so, but you just said it sounded a little bit like a diesel. If it was me I'd attempt to save what you have. There may be a straightedge trick in the Bentley manual or something more complicated you can try. Back in the day I drove my subaru up a hill for about a mile while it was overheating and it was fine after I burped it. I have also down my audi about a mile with the oil light flashing after my turbo oil drain line burst from ex manifold heat and it was fine. I only say that because there may be more hope than has been described! Probably not though... I can get an aeb longblock for 650$ in my neck of the woods with around 120k. It would probably be easier to just swap a new engine in than check the head and block out, but maybe albiet doubtfully you could save some money.

[roman815]

A local mechanic here where I live apparently does a free diagnoses. Ill take it there and let you know which one of you guys are correct ;)

[nemick]

You can spend money having a mechanic look at it, but it's toast anyway. I would advise you to either steer well clear of this or else just look for an affordable AWM engine to put in it. If you aren't up to replacing the engine yourself, I doubt you'll be able to buy a replacement and pay for the swap with a $1500.00 budget. Sorry if I sound harsh, just being realistic.

[El Jefe Libano]

You can spend money having a mechanic look at it, but it's toast anyway. I would advise you to either steer well clear of this or else just look for an affordable AWM engine to put in it. If you aren't up to replacing the engine yourself, I doubt you'll be able to buy a replacement and pay for the swap with a $1500.00 budget. Sorry if I sound harsh, just being realistic.

🏽 This.


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[tar]

Yea the AEB is different I'm not sure of DBC I've never herd of it. But the AEB has substantially less to it that's the motor I have.


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maybe read more post less. enough bad info floating around already. op does not need incorrect advise

[redline380]

If I where you I would buy a new motor the head gasket is done. You might have wrapped the head as well. They're aluminum so it doesn't take much, as far as it sounding like a diesel it's because there was no oil in it I don't know if it's as far as it being a ring but that's a lot to look into you have to do a motor tear down. In my opinion buy a new motor they're not that expensive if you can find one in a part out which there is 99% chance you can buy it. Now my question is do you plan on doing any performance work on the car?

Starts out with okay advice....

Any b5 motor from 96-01 thing is that majority are 20v instead of 5v which is better in my opinion. The difference with the 01 motors is that there 180hp stock instead of 150hp in the previous years. But if it's a daily it dosent really matter. If your real picky about it get a tune and enjoy it.

Nosedives into completely incorrect information....

But the AEB has substantially less to it that's the motor I have.

And finishes strong with even more incorrect BS!

Dude, if you don't know what you are talking about, do not post.


OP, in my mind, going rate for a bad motor car is $500, maybe a little more if the exterior/interior is good. But it probably isn't since the other guy can't even put oil in it.

If you buy it, I'd start with $300. Scrap is low, so cars that are scrap should be low too. Motors can be had for $500 or so. Considering it is an 06A block, you have tons of options for motors like Passat, Jetta, Golf, and of course other 01 A4's.

[MarcRogers]

Starts out with okay advice....



Nosedives into completely incorrect information....



And finishes strong with even more incorrect BS!

Dude, if you don't know what you are talking about, do not post.


OP, in my mind, going rate for a bad motor car is $500, maybe a little more if the exterior/interior is good. But it probably isn't since the other guy can't even put oil in it.

If you buy it, I'd start with $300. Scrap is low, so cars that are scrap should be low too. Motors can be had for $500 or so. Considering it is an 06A block, you have tons of options for motors like Passat, Jetta, Golf, and of course other 01 A4's.

Woah sorry for my "bad information" a simple correction would have been fine, arrogant people don't get anywhere. I'm sorry if your angry but that's on you. I'll post if I please and if I'm incorrect about something someone can't correct me without being a douche about it.


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[redline380]

I'll post if I please and if I'm incorrect about something someone can't correct me without being a douche about it.

Regular users of this forum like to keep information accurate. Call me or others a douche all you want, but that will not change anything.

If you are young in Audi adventure, tis better to ask than answer. Shooting from the hip with information that you have no idea to its truthfulness is a poor place to start your four ring safari.

[MarcRogers]

Like I said I will post as I please. The man asked a question about his motor I gave him my opinion. Get a new motor. Sorry if I'm not balls deep in specs like others are like I said I'm an AEB guy only delt with them and felt with a few ATW motors. I'm not into the 06A blocks only thing I've herd about them is that they produce more power from the factory. I don't really put my opinion out there. I normally just ask but like I said I'll continue to do as I do and mind my own business.


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[tar]

Like I said I will post as I please. The man asked a question about his motor I gave him my opinion. Get a new motor. Sorry if I'm not balls deep in specs like others are like I said I'm an AEB guy only delt with them and felt with a few ATW motors. I'm not into the 06A blocks only thing I've herd about them is that they produce more power from the factory. I don't really put my opinion out there. I normally just ask but like I said I'll continue to do as I do and mind my own business.


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id like your opinion on how a 5v 4 cylinder works. 1.25 per? please elaborate

[redline380]

The man asked a question about his motor I gave him my opinion.

I don't really put my opinion out there.

Contradictory statement is contradictory.

In this case, there was no opinion to give, only fact. If you do not know the true facts, keep your opinion about the facts to yourself. If someone wants to know what color to paint their rimz, feel free to provide your opinion.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Redline I except the Douche title with you as I too like accurate info
But anyway Now that we have trashed another thread lol.

SOO back to the point In a nut shell OP I think most will agree that A full AWM replacement from a Ruining working car will be your best option. ATW or AEB can be done but we are trying to keep it simple stick with AWM.
As said before your motor is junk after all that low oil run time no point to takeing it to a shop. my $.02