Originally Posted by
vdubsack
Hey Guys,
I'm new to the AllRoad community but I'm a life long VAG enthusiast.
Last year I started collecting AllRoads & parts as a new project with my brother in law. I've built many VAG card and done many motor swaps in the past but this is my first 2.7t build.
The goal is to build a reliable(relative I know), 2.7t AllRoad for my wife to haul around our dogs and food cart. So far here's what I've collected:
- '01 AllRoad with blown motor and Tiptronic tranny but clean body. It's also got a full HD static suspension swap and tow kit.
- '02 AllRoad with running motor(163k), presumably working Tiptronic and blown airbags.
- A6 manual transmission swap, presumably all the parts are there.
I've gutted the '02 donor car, pulled the drivetrain from the '01 and cleaned out the body and I'm ready to start refreshing the 163k motor. So far I plan to replace the following items:
- Timing belt
- water pump
- Head gasket and all gaskets above the head
- Any broken vacuum hoses from the spaghetti of both motors
- Clutch & Flywheel
- All fluids & filters
As I start to tear apart the motor, my first question is what else should I replace while I have the motor out and everything pulled apart?
Any advice is much appreciated. Pics to follow soon...
Thanks,
Chris
Ironically, I did this over the last year. Started with two Allroads, both manuals, and used the trans from the older one to fix the bad trans in the newer one. It's a treat tearing two cars apart in a large one-car garage. ;)
You'll get a nice bump in power if you have it tuned and Stuklr can handle it remotely. Plus, when you do the tune, you can address some of the complicated unnecessary items:
Delete the SAI system (pump and combi valves,) tuned out via Stuklr.
Delete the rear 02's, less stuff to fail. Tuned out via Stuklr.
Delete the EGT's, plug with a very hard to find bolt and a crush washer. Tuned out via Stuklr. The EGT sensors, if functional, are worth something to someone, I'd think.
Buy an aluminum thermostat housing for around $55 used.
http://forums.quattroworld.com/class...87.phtml#45744
Use a complete timing belt kit and a complete valve cover, cam adjuster seal, cam seal, and cam plug kit. Cam tools are CHEAP on ebay; maybe $50 for the lock bar and crank lock. Don't half-ass it and leave the sprockets on, you just don't know if it's timed right unless you do it yourself. My regular pullers got the pulley's off easily, no need for the special tool. I'd replace the front main seal too as mine was leaking. (rear main was fine.)
I run an RS4 clutch by LuK on the OEM dual mass flywheel. It's one of the most cost effective options for an upgraded clutch and the LuK unit is the OEM unit from the RS4. Very light pedal, feels OEM because it is. My ALH TDI literally has a heavier pedal feel than the RS4 clutch and it's proven to hold 400+hp from what I remember. Works well, but I haven't pushed/launched it whatsoever. No desire to fix anything if/when it breaks.
Check the function of what you can touch when its out. You'll know if a bearing in the A/C compressor feels bad, same with the alternator. If it is, now's your chance. If nothing else, you can test the alternator at the local parts place just to make sure it's up to snuff.
Fun stuff?
Turbos and exhaust?
I'd recommend you give serious though to looking at different, rebuilt K03's (if you can find something super cheap) or some version of a K04 when you put it back together. Depending on how those turbos were treated, they could be good or bad. Honestly, lots of people have issue, but many go beyond the miles you have already. I'd direct you to Lee at FTG as turbos seem to be holding up fine for the very minimal miles I have on the car, but something has gone awry at FTG as of late. No idea how much is true or what really happened, but it's not great at this point. I really have no idea what's happening, just speculation from many sources. Regardless, unless you have a great deal somewhere, this is where the rabbit hole gets deep if you're not careful. If money is no object, you have a fun road ahead of you. Cheapest would be to reassemble and stock turbos, but you'll know quickly if they're leaking or worn.
Downpipes, buy it directly from XSpower/SSAutochrome as you should be able to find them there yet. Note, do NOT assume the 3" full downpipes will actually fit. My 6sp manual car had a TON of fitment issues with the 3" downpipes. I had to oversize the mount holes, severely dent the pipes, grind on the trans mounts, and build new downpipe exhaust hangers. Even my tuner said the 3" pipes take work and there is nearly zero benefit of running those over the 3" to 2.5" pipes. Those bolt on and go, mine had hours of trial and error.
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