Engine too low, snub bracket wont fit

[maurizio]

Hello,
I was replacing my snub mount because my old one was shredded but i ran into a problem. Anyone ever have the engine sit too low? Damn bracket wont line up.


Snub Mount im trying to install:
https://store.034motorsport.com/snub...6-allroad.html

Motor mounts currently on car:
https://www.europaparts.com/motor-mo...379ad-oem.html

I dont remember if it always sat this low, seems really close to the sway and other stuff: (Thats a washer from the snub mount bracket wedged in there)


Thank you for your time.

[customa4]

How are your motor mounts looking? Have you done anything with the core support recently like a timing belt change?

[Andy_FL]

Put a block of wood on your jack and gently lift the engine on the oil pan to get better alignment.

I just replaced my snub - didn't touch the bracket that was attached to the rad support - I only removed the triangular one and lifted the engine a bit.

[ADCS]

Put a block of wood on your jack and gently lift the engine on the oil pan to get better alignment.

I just replaced my snub - didn't touch the bracket that was attached to the rad support - I only removed the triangular one and lifted the engine a bit.

Don't do that.
You MUST loosen the cup on the rad support in order to set the position correctly or else you will have terrible vibrations.

[ADCS]

Hello,
I was replacing my snub mount because my old one was shredded but i ran into a problem. Anyone ever have the engine sit too low? Damn bracket wont line up.


Snub Mount im trying to install:
https://store.034motorsport.com/snub...6-allroad.html

Motor mounts currently on car:
https://www.europaparts.com/motor-mo...379ad-oem.html

I dont remember if it always sat this low, seems really close to the sway and other stuff: (Thats a washer from the snub mount bracket wedged in there)


Thank you for your time.

Do you know what engine mounts you have? Old OEM mounts? If so they are likely shot causing the engine to sag.

Some of the aftermarket mounts can do that as well. Specifically the solid rubber RS4 mounts. They require a couple washers in order to lift the engine up ever so slightly.

[diagnosticator]

Yeah, assuming the main engine mounts are in good condition, the engine needs to be lifted a little to align the snub bracket bolt holes. IF the engine mounts are good, use a couple of extra wide washers placed between the engine mounts and the engine mount brackets to raise the engine as required. Don't simply lift the engine with a jack to align the bolt holes for assembly, that will result with the snub mount being pre loaded and there won't be the specified clearance around the snub mount, causing a lot of NVH.

A stiff performance snub mount is only worthwhile for manual trans cars. Tiptronic auto trans cars don't benefit from using a performance snub mount because the tip trans does not have any significant variation of drive torque during gear shifts like a manual trans does.

[deyrag]

I have a 3.0 so may be completely wrong here but are you sure that the receiver part is on correctly and not flipped 180 deg?

[maurizio]

Put a block of wood on your jack and gently lift the engine on the oil pan to get better alignment.

I just replaced my snub - didn't touch the bracket that was attached to the rad support - I only removed the triangular one and lifted the engine a bit.

I need to center the snub in the bracket; i cannot let it rest on the bracket, thats what obliterated the old snub.

How are your motor mounts looking? Have you done anything with the core support recently like a timing belt change?

No other work done. They are the Solid RS4 mounts from the link. They were OEM ones. Less than a year old.

Yeah, assuming the main engine mounts are in good condition, the engine needs to be lifted a little to align the snub bracket bolt holes. IF the engine mounts are good, use a couple of extra wide washers placed between the engine mounts and the engine mount brackets to raise the engine as required. Don't simply lift the engine with a jack to align the bolt holes for assembly, that will result with the snub mount being pre loaded and there won't be the specified clearance around the snub mount, causing a lot of NVH.

A stiff performance snub mount is only worthwhile for manual trans cars. Tiptronic auto trans cars don't benefit from using a performance snub mount because the tip trans does not have any significant variation of drive torque during gear shifts like a manual trans does.

This is a 6 speed vehicle. Guess i will have to add some washers. Im surprised with how popular these mounts are that i havent heard / read of any problems. Would have been nice to have been warned that it would eventually settle and take out the snub or include washers. Lesson learned.

[imnuts]

I have a 3.0 so may be completely wrong here but are you sure that the receiver part is on correctly and not flipped 180 deg?

I was thinking the same thing while looking at the picture.

[walky_talky20]

I'm pretty sure that B5 mounts, as a rule, are a bit shorter than B6 mounts. Not a huge amount, but shorter nonetheless. (Use the word "nonetheless" at least once today: check).

A couple washers should get you back in business.

[maurizio]

Added some washers to both sides:





Snub lined up perfectly. Guess i expected the RS4 mounts to be a direct replacement of the original ones. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.

Thank you for your time.

[customa4]

Glad to see you got it figured out! Let us know how you like all the new motor mounts.

[PreciseD]

They are a direct replacement as I have them on both my B6s. All you had to do was lift the front of the motor to align the mount. That is all I did and there is no preload or vibrations.

[Charles.waite]

My b6 had b5 2.8 mounts and the snub was completely bottomed out on the cup which was bottomed out on its adjustments. I had considered drilling out an extra 1/4" on the snub cup grooves to add in a little more adjustment. Didn't know this was a common thing with b5 mounts but I'm not shocked to hear this given I'd suspected it for a while.

My mounts were also a bit sloppy, at least given my b7 that I was comparing it too. Additionally it needed lots of fiddly adjustment to the snub to get rid of the idle vibrations. Like every 4-6 months I had to adjust it just so to get the idle vibrations down. It was tedious and somewhat annoying.

My conclusion, despite all the b5/6/7 mounts looking similar and having similar fitment/dimensions, they're not exactly the same dimensionally and definitely not the same construction/materials wise.

At least my b5 mounts were $25/each so I could hardly complain but when it comes time to refresh my b7s engine mounts in the next few years in definitely going to think a bit harder about my options. Likely going with 034 street mounts and am going to take some measurements as well.

[DiertyEuroSpec]

I have a feeling it was the front support that was missaglined not the engine mounts or engine.

Sent from my LGL33L using Tapatalk

[Charles.waite]

I have a feeling it was the front support that was missaglined not the engine mounts or engine.

Sent from my LGL33L using Tapatalk

You mean the Subframe? I was toying with that idea too but it seemed to be fine. I did notice when I lifted the front end with my jack placed on the center of the engine subframe, the engine raised quite a bit before the car would start to lift. So maybe you've got a point there. never once saw any damage to that crossmember though, even when I had the tranny dropped to change the clutch...

[DiertyEuroSpec]

I mean the front lock carrier. It is held on by the. Bolts to the upper fender area and the bumper shocks are what hold it mainly. If some took it completely off without marking where it was it could be off. That seems like a lot for it to be off but difcently more plausible then the new motor mounts being wrong.

Sent from my LGL33L using Tapatalk

[diagnosticator]

My experience over the years with older Audi models, different chassis and engine combinations use specific spacer washers between the engine mounts and the engine mount brackets on the engine. Some Audis have a spacer washer on only one side, others use a different spacer washer thickness on each side, and still others use the same washer on each side. Using some wide washers in this case to restore alignment of the mount bolt holes is standard practice for Audis.

[ADCS]

They are a direct replacement as I have them on both my B6s. All you had to do was lift the front of the motor to align the mount. That is all I did and there is no preload or vibrations.

By design they are not really a direct bolt-on however they CAN be due to tolerance stack so it is sort of hit and miss. It really depends on the alignment and tolerance of all the components. My B6 didn't need washers but my B7 did. Both have B5 RS4 mounts.

Edit: I only needed 2 thin washers on each side so about .060"

[old guy]

Interesting thread. I replaced my leaking OEM mounts with the Febi B5 S4 mounts and they have worked fine for the past four years: Clicky click®

I had no problem whatsoever with the snub mount alignment. I readjusted it once since then when I did a TB service but otherwise I haven't touched it. Engine appears to be sitting at the correct height.

[walky_talky20]

While we are on the subject, I have a 1.8T and want to replace mounts soon. I want an upgrade over stock, but don't want added vibration. I'm thinking I probably want to have fluid in the mounts to achieve this. Are the OEM RS4 mounts the ticket? How are you guys liking them?

[old guy]

All I can tell you Keith is click on my link in post #20. They are dirt cheap solid mounts and I experienced no additional vibration at all. With several new (but more $$) options would I do it again? Yes.

[Charles.waite]

OG, I'm pretty sure those mounts were what I bought. Could be I needed some spacers to raise the engine up a little bit...

Yup just checked my AutohausAZ order from 2012, same part number, made by Febi.

[old guy]

OG, I'm pretty sure those mounts were what I bought. Could be I needed some spacers to raise the engine up a little bit...

Yup just checked my AutohausAZ order from 2012, same part number, made by Febi.

That's what I find so strange about this information. My drivetrain alignment is fine with the S4 B5 mounts. Obviously that isn't the case for several others that have posted in this thread.

[walky_talky20]

Fletcher, do you believe those Febi mounts to be solid rubber (as in, no fluid filling)? Or just solid as in "dependable"?

The reason I ask is that I've installed some kind of aftermarket mounts I bought at Waterfest from some random vendor. They firmed things up, but have added vibrations that I don't like. They were billed as "S4" mounts and they looked pretty "OEM", but were cheap. I think they are probably solid rubber construction and I thought that might be the reason for my qualms. Not sure how to tell how they are filled. I should probably make sure I don't already have these Febi mounts before I go buy more of them.

[old guy]

Fletcher, do you believe those Febi mounts to be solid rubber (as in, no fluid filling)? Or just solid as in "dependable"?

Excellent question! For whatever reason I just assumed the Febi mounts were solid. I don't know if I read it somewhere or just made it up in my head. I just did a quick search and can't find anything to substantiate whether they are solid or fluid filled. Short of purchasing one and stabbing it with an ice pick I really can't say for sure.

General question: Has anyone here had to replace a Febi mount for leaking?

[ADCS]

I don't recall where I read it, I think it was in the B7 section, but I was under the impression that the B5 S4 and RS4 mounts are both full rubber (no fluid). The RS4 being stiffer than the S4 mounts (less air chambers, more rubber).

[MacFady]

...are you sure that the receiver part is on correctly and not flipped 180 deg?

I was thinking the same thing while looking at the picture.

There are only 3 bolt holes for the cup from what I remember, so you can't install it in the wrong orientation.

Further to OG's post, I also have the Febi mounts and had no issues with lining up the snub so it wasn't touching the cup, no washers in my case either.

[customa4]

Yupp, only 1 way to install the bracket.