Potential Early Clutch Failure (Valeo)

[A4orce84]

Hey Guys,

Recently, I noticed my Valeo Clutch (installed on November of 2014) is starting to exhibit a slipping behavior on my Stage 2+ B6 A4. While I am not 100% sure it is the clutch just yet, it appears to be exhibiting all the common signs......such as in a high load / high torque situation, the engine will rev up and then momentary slip on power for 1-2 seconds, while the RPM continues moving upward, until the clutch 'catches' and we are back in business and in sync.

To say I am disappointed is an understatement. I've had the Valeo clutch on the car for just over a year, and less than 25k miles, and already it might be time to replace it? Also, to add some additional information, during the previous change I also had the indy mechanic replace the rear main seal at the same time.

Anyway, my questions are the following:
1. Is it possible there is some other culprit besides the clutch that would explain what I am experiencing?
2. If it is the Valeo clutch, is there anything I can do if it failed prematurely (warranty, etc.)?

Thanks in advance for everyone's thoughts and help, it is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Asif

[walky_talky20]

My brother had clutch slipping issues short after installing a new OEM clutch kit. It turned out to be a leak of the transmission input shaft seal, and a slight leak of the rear main seal didn't help either. Neither of these were leaking AT ALL during the clutch service, so the old adage of "if they aren't leaking, leave them alone" failed him miserably. He was pretty upset about it.

If the disc is oil soaked, you need to replace it. The flywheel and pressure plate can be cleaned up, but you can't really get the oil out of the clutch material.

Also, a possibility is that there is no oil related failure, but the clutch was just not strong enough for your application. It is meant for OEM application. I'm pretty sure Valeo isn't testing these things on Stage 2+ cars, nor would they recommend it for that.

[A4orce84]

Also, a possibility is that there is no oil related failure, but the clutch was just not strong enough for your application. It is meant for OEM application. I'm pretty sure Valeo isn't testing these things on Stage 2+ cars, nor would they recommend it for that.

While I agree, Valeo does not 'advertise' that they are capable of handling additional power over OEM....several members (oldguy, Matt Devo, etc.) have stated that the Valeo Clutch can handle a considerable bump in power compared to an OEM setup. Just searching comes up with several threads backing this up. I'm not saying that it is not possible, just that it would seem highly unlikely.

Thanks,
Asif

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Replacement clutch kits available below.

I'm not seeing the disc available separately from the pressure plate.

Click HERE to order or for more information


Jason

[old guy]

I’m sorry to hear that your Valeo is slipping after only 25k miles. I have around 40k on mine. Roughly have of it with a big injector file and the rest with the F21L set up. This was a major concern of mine when I went with the F21L and was prepared to replace it if necessary. So far it is holding up fine.

I should point out that I have never tried to launch with it and I am always very careful to have the clutch fully engaged before any significant acceleration.

I believe that there is a replacement clutch plate available from Valeo if you want to go that route. I have the part number at home and will provide it to you after work. If yours is slipping from oil contamination a replacement disc would be the least expensive repair. Obviously if it simply isn’t holding power anymore you are going to want to go with something stronger.

[A4orce84]

Hey Guys,

Thank you for the responses so far. Also, just to clarify...I looked at the receipt from last year, and I ONLY put 17k miles total on the current clutch. So less than 20k to be exact.

Other food for thought:
I replaced the rear main seal with the previous clutch job.....so either it is leaking now, or it is the input shaft seal that could possibly be leaking on to the clutch disc. Is there any other potential spots for a leak to occur to affect the clutch?

Thanks,
Asif

[old guy]

You can try giving your clutch a slight slip and immediately get out, open the hood and give it a sniff test. An oil contaminated clutch disk will often start to smell when heated up.

[old guy]

I was mistaken. The part number I have is for a replacement Valeo kit. Not just the clutch disc. It consists of a clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. It reuses the Valeo solid flywheel. Saves a few $$ but really isn't that significant considering the price of the complete kit that includes the flywheel. Clicky click

But as previously stated, unless yours is slipping because of contamination you should go with something with a bit more bite.

[walky_talky20]

Is there something really different about the Valeo disc? In this position myself, I'd probably look into the possibility of using a readily available VW/Audi 228mm sprung disc. Like a Jetta VR6 disc:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FX-STAGE-2-S...pWTPQj&vxp=mtr

Or maybe calling Valeo and inquiring about availability of part number 701404 (from the ECS photo).

It's not like the any part of the disc actually touches the flywheel or pressure plate - other than the friction surface. I'd bet you could make something else work pretty easily. I would totally rock the CRAP out of a sketchy clutch setup like that. Others may not be so comfortable. ;)

[old guy]

If the issue was a contaminated disc I can see your logic. If the issue was clamp force I don't see how changing the disc would make much of a difference.

[walky_talky20]

^Yes, I mean to replace the oil soaked disc without buying an entire Valeo clutch kit at $250+. I think a $50-$75 disc-only replacement is all that should be required. Assuming the Valeo disc is not some weird thickness, it shouldn't be too difficult to come up with something in that price range.

[Detroiter]

Not trying to thread jack here but my clutch has just recently began slipping after having parked at a lot where they move cars around to fit as many in as possible. The second I got back to my car after work I noticed an overwhelming stench in the cabin that was only comparable to me of an metal working shop. I asked the attendant if anything had happened but of course he denied any issues while driving it. I figured maybe it was the jacket the guy was wearing that left the stench so I began to drive home. Once on the freeway I had to give the car a little more than half throttle to get past a car and noticed the rpm's skyrocket and the car not accelerate any further so I let off the gas and it stayed steady again until home. Now it has been 4 days since this incident and my car continues to reek of the smell even though the clutch hasn't slipped again as I have been driving it carefully.

Any ideas or help on whether this is just a blown out clutch or if it sounds more like oil contamination would be appreciated.

[old guy]

Detroiter: It sounds like you are the unfortunate victim of a parking lot cowboy. Gear oil or motor oil on a clutch smells like burning oil. A glazed clutch has a very sharp acrid smell. That sounds more like what you are describing.

Depending upon how bad the clutch was glazed you may be able to resurrect it. The good news is that you have been able to prevent additional slippage by going really easy on the clutch. Continue to drive as if you have an egg taped to the accelerator. (And I don't mean a hard boiled one:). If the friction material wasn't completely cooked and the glazing is just on the surface you can baby it for a while and eventually get through the glaze. The clutch should then return to normal.

Otherwise you may need to replace the clutch.

Good Luck!

[Detroiter]

Thanks for the help old guy. I was hoping something like that would be the case and that I would not have to replace seals as well as my clutch.

I will take your advise on driving very easy and just hope that the glaze wears off and hope that it is soon as the stench is almost unbearable.

[tHatOne guY]

Detroiter: It sounds like you are the unfortunate victim of a parking lot cowboy....

Lot of that going on here lately. Got my car back from the body shop and it would not go into gear at all when I tried to leave. Once I got the eng/trans pulled several clutch pieces came falling out of the bell housing upon separation.

[Audi body]

My brother had clutch slipping issues short after installing a new OEM clutch kit. It turned out to be a leak of the transmission input shaft seal, and a slight leak of the rear main seal didn't help either. Neither of these were leaking AT ALL during the clutch service, so the old adage of "if they aren't leaking, leave them alone" failed him miserably. He was pretty upset about it.

If the disc is oil soaked, you need to replace it. The flywheel and pressure plate can be cleaned up, but you can't really get the oil out of the clutch material.

Also, a possibility is that there is no oil related failure, but the clutch was just not strong enough for your application. It is meant for OEM application. I'm pretty sure Valeo isn't testing these things on Stage 2+ cars, nor would they recommend it for that.

I'm running it on my 2.0/gt3076. Lol. Holds just fine. Had the stock luk before that. Held to 350 at the crank before it couldn't hold anymore. Lol. A friend sent the valeo so I just threw it in. See how long it will hold. So far it holds like a champ