2006 S4... 150000 miles... Buy or stay away?

[S4bro]

Hey guys. I was going to purchase a B8 S4 originally, but changed my mind as I don't want to finance. So I have decided to go back to a B7 S4.

I saw a sprint blue 2006 S4 recently with 150000 miles. It seems like it is very well kept. The owner has the following maintenance done:

New clutch
timing chain
chain guides
cam adjusters
valve cover gaskets
A/C pump
starter
brakes

It also has a few performance and visual mods, JHM tune and FI exhaust with down pipes, RS4 grille and rims etc.

Should i pull the trigger on this S4 if it passes inspection?

What do you guys think is a fair price for this vehicle?

My guess is because of the high miles I'll have to change out the control arms and suspension in the near future. Any other things you guys could think of that i should look forward to changing?


Would love to hear your thoughts :)

[Guitarmageddon]

If it was me, id stay far, far away. I dont care about the timing service. I mean, yes I "care" but id be more worried about "unfixable" wall scoring. But hey, that could be one with absolute virgin mary cylinder walls. Get it scoped, leakdown, and compression tested. The inevitable answer to anyones "should I buy this s4" thread.

Id lowball them at 8 grand and see what happens.

[pandapod]

I bought my 2005.5 S4 two years ago with 135k miles. Now i'm at about 160k with less than $1k invested in repair work, and the previous owner didn't do any maintenance. I say you go for it.

By the way i paid $8,900 for mine and felt like i stole the damn thing. If it's under $10k i would jump on it, sprint blue pearl is so sexy you can't refuse it! Mine may have cylinder wall scoring but it doesn't really affect me...still get all the power, just gotta feed the thing oil every ~1,000 miles

[bmwpower603]

Head gasket wasn't done while all the timing was done? I'd be more worried about that, opposed to cylinder scoring.

[EUROSWAGR]

Head gasket wasn't done while all the timing was done? I'd be more worried about that, opposed to cylinder scoring.

The head gaskets on these cars are like 4 layers thick and rarely see any kind of issues? Where are you getting your info?

[Slow4]

Head gasket wasn't done while all the timing was done?

How do these two things interrelate?

[Mr. Corey]

Head gasket wasn't done while all the timing was done? I'd be more worried about that, opposed to cylinder scoring.

Head gasket isn't an issue with these cars as others have already stated. OP the only thing that hasn't been mentioned that could be a problem if it hasn't been done is the valve guides / stem seals.

[Slow4]

OP, sounds like a solid buy.

** Ask when the timing components got changed/refreshed.
** Look into the fuel filter and when it was last changed, likewise with fuel pump as they can go intermittently
** Get a compression/leak-down test as well just to gauge the cylinder healths. At 150K, chances are your cylinders might have some scoring and unless original owner beat the shit out of it, it shouldn't be too bad.
** PCV, the bozo the clown honking is fun but it get weird after awhile
** CV boots if you're looking at suspension updates.

[JimmyBones]

Get a PPI done with engine compression and cylinder leakage tests. I would want to see receipts/documentation for the work done.

If the PPI is good and they have documentation of the previous work done then I would buy the car. I wouldn't pay more than $8K US but the Canadian currency is really weak right now so now is the time to buy.

[Blackstallion]

^^^agree with Jimmy -- was waiting for someone to mention currency as well...

The head gaskets on these cars are like 4 layers thick and rarely see any kind of issues? Where are you getting your info?

He also thought ice hitting his windshield caused some issues with his engine too..

[JimmyBones]

^^^agree with Jimmy -- was waiting for someone to mention currency as well...





He also thought ice hitting his windshield caused some issues with his engine too..

More recently, bmwpower603 mentioned getting SACC knockoff headers too. He really needs to do more research.

[bmwpower603]

I paid $5,500.00 for my 2004 w. 150k. And needs engine pull already. These cars don't hold value very well, and you will never get your money back. Buy a B5 s4. Those hold value very well.

Note* I did purchase mine for $5,500 at a dealer auction. Which is why it seems low. It needed a clutch and flywheel right off the bat.

[RedS4avant]

I paid $5,000.00 for my 2004 w. 150k. And needs engine pull already. These cars don't hold value very well, and you will never get your money back. Buy a B5 s4. Those hold value very well.

Just because you paid 5k for a beatup headache of a b6 does not mean they are all bad like your car. Suggesting OP buy a b5 instead of properly researching his planned purchase just shows how ignorant you are. Go back to cleaning the ice out of your rattly check valves or better yet sell your lemon and buy a b5 and say so long to our forum

[bmwpower603]

I've had many of b5 s4's. Never had any serious issues.
I purchased a b6 knowing the issues that could occur. Ignorant is the incorrect term. Knowledgeable would be more like it.

OP good luck finding the best fit vehicle !!

[Tella27]

You could buy one with 80k on it and have problems or buy that one and only have normal wear issues. It's up to you - if you do the homework and feel it's a good deal buy if you feel different pass. No post on a thread will give you 100% assurance - these are all opinions.

[S4bro]

Hey guys,
Thanks for the detailed responses. I have asked the seller to provide me all the documentation for the work done.

He says he has a folder for all work completed. I will be getting the compression test and leak down done on it since that is something emphasized about these cars alot. I am still trying to work him down on price to around 10k CAD which works out to just under $8k USD

I had a B7 S4 a while back, and previous owner did not do any maintenance on it apart from oil changes. It still drove great and had 150k miles when i sold it. It was an impulse buy at that time, but this time I will do it right. That V8 rumble is something i miss :)

[S4bro]

OP, sounds like a solid buy.

** Ask when the timing components got changed/refreshed.
** Look into the fuel filter and when it was last changed, likewise with fuel pump as they can go intermittently
** Get a compression/leak-down test as well just to gauge the cylinder healths. At 150K, chances are your cylinders might have some scoring and unless original owner beat the shit out of it, it shouldn't be too bad.
** PCV, the bozo the clown honking is fun but it get weird after awhile
** CV boots if you're looking at suspension updates.

Awesome info!
Will make sure to go over all this. Timing components were done 25k miles ago. I will double check the mileage once I physically see the receipts myself.

[VinnysS4]

If it passes a leak down and PPI, then go for it! should drive for a while. Mileage isnt ALWAYS a good indicator as to the car's condition. A car could have 30k of non stop light to light redline racing on a cold engine with zero maintenance. The car could have 200k of 55mph highway miles with oil change intervals of 1000 miles and every single thing that made a noise was replaced at the dealer. I myself am meticulous about maintaining my cars and investigate every little noise and i fix it when i find the problem. It all depends on how the car was treated. get the PPI and if it checks out, 8k USD is a good price

[S4bro]

If it passes a leak down and PPI, then go for it! should drive for a while. Mileage isnt ALWAYS a good indicator as to the car's condition. A car could have 30k of non stop light to light redline racing on a cold engine with zero maintenance. The car could have 200k of 55mph highway miles with oil change intervals of 1000 miles and every single thing that made a noise was replaced at the dealer. I myself am meticulous about maintaining my cars and investigate every little noise and i fix it when i find the problem. It all depends on how the car was treated. get the PPI and if it checks out, 8k USD is a good price

That has been my experience as well. I have had some high mileage cars that were religiously maintained and never had an issue.
And I have had a low mileage car that ran great except the power steering pump failed twice in 1 year which was quite annoying.

[Concavitor]

Don't just run away, submerge your head in bleach for an hour.

[S4bro]

UPDATE:

Buyer has provided receipts for the work done on the S4. He is also ok with the car being taken in for inspection,leak down test etc.

The car burns oil (like most of them), but when i asked how much between oil changes, he didn't give me an exact number.

He is the second owner of the vehicle, and he only had it for 2 years. The first owner did all the major work and all the modifications on the car.

Price is something we have locked horns on. The seller doesn't want to go lower than 10k USD. I have made my offer of 8k USD, and he wasn't to happy about it.

Let's see if he bites.

[bmwpower603]

I'm sure it's 1-2 quarts every 3k of oil that burns. Atleast that's what mine burns.. and I have similar miles.

[Mr.Wrong]

OP I'd suggest paying a bit extra and boroscope cylinders for potential scoring. Even though one of the big maintenance items has been addressed, you could still have some bad cylinder scoring which is why it might burn oil.

I'm sure it's 1-2 quarts every 3k of oil that burns. Atleast that's what mine burns.. and I have similar miles.

That's a shit load of oil you're loosing and nothing to do with mileage. I'd suggest borescoping your cylinders.

[bmwpower603]

I know. I'm getting a scope this week. Along with compression test.

[JimmyBones]

UPDATE:

Buyer has provided receipts for the work done on the S4. He is also ok with the car being taken in for inspection,leak down test etc.

The car burns oil (like most of them), but when i asked how much between oil changes, he didn't give me an exact number.

He is the second owner of the vehicle, and he only had it for 2 years. The first owner did all the major work and all the modifications on the car.

Price is something we have locked horns on. The seller doesn't want to go lower than 10k USD. I have made my offer of 8k USD, and he wasn't to happy about it.

Let's see if he bites.

It is a good thing that he has provided receipts for the work done.

Press for an answer of how much oil that the car actually burns. Each S4 is different depending on how it was treated.

It sounds like he overpaid for it when he got it and he doesn't have much money in it otherwise.

I'm sure it's 1-2 quarts every 3k of oil that burns. Atleast that's what mine burns.. and I have similar miles.

Each S4 is different with how much oil it burns depending on how it is driven and what components are worn. Your S4 is burning a lot of oil. As compared to my S4 only burnt like a half of a quart in a little over 5K miles of highway driving cross country. Then I put 2k miles light miles on it around town and then like 230 miles around a road course. After the first day at the road course I noticed my S4 burnt half a quart of oil. To me that makes sense because I had leaking valve stem seals that would act up with getting really hot and then shutting the engine off without cooling off the engine first. My point again is that each S4 burns oil differently.

[b6onboost]

The owner knows exactly how much oil its burning and how often. Find out or walk.

[bmwpower603]

If I have bad valve stem seals.. could that cause it to burn more oil than usual?

[Slow4]

yes but still need to check out all the culprits first; oil consumption doesn't have a single set issue, it can vary.

[JimmyBones]

If I have bad valve stem seals.. could that cause it to burn more oil than usual?

Yes!

There are three things that commonly cause oil burning on these V8s.
1. PCV valve
2. Valve stem seals
3. Scored cylinder walls

The PCV valve sucks oil up from the crankcase into the intake. The valve stem seals swell/expand which causes the oil to go down the valves into the intake/exhaust ports. Then of course scored cylinder walls allow oil to get past the piston rings.

[bmwpower603]

My mechanic just got back to me. Here's the compression results.
1-185
2-180
3-190
4-195
5-185
6-200
7-190
8-190

[VinnysS4]

that's not bad IMO. If i'm not mistaken, you should be more worried about variances in the compression numbers. all your numbers are within 10% of each other so i think that part is good. as copied elsewhere :

Audi > A4, S4 > 2002-2007
4.2 Liter V8 4V Engine Mechanical, Engine Code(s): BNS 15 -

New = 10.0 to 14.0 bar
Wear Limit = 9.0 bar
Difference between Cylinders = max. 3.0 bar

1 bar = 14.5 psi
so if you have 180 psi on the low, that's 12 bar and well within the threshold. 200 is just under 14 bar. Difference between cylinders doesn't exceed 2 bar, so it should be fine. I'd say compression checks out. But then again, you might want jimmybones to give his opinion....he is pretty knowledgeable.

[IslandHydro]

My mechanic just got back to me. Here's the compression results.
1-185
2-180
3-190
4-195
5-185
6-200
7-190
8-190

That looks pretty good, now you need to find out how much oil it burns, and get him down 15-20% on price.

[JimmyBones]

My mechanic just got back to me. Here's the compression results.
1-185
2-180
3-190
4-195
5-185
6-200
7-190
8-190

That is really high. Do you know if that is dry or wet? Was it done with the engine at operating temperature? How many miles does the current engine oil and filter have?

that's not bad IMO. If i'm not mistaken, you should be more worried about variances in the compression numbers. all your numbers are within 10% of each other so i think that part is good. as copied elsewhere :

Audi > A4, S4 > 2002-2007
4.2 Liter V8 4V Engine Mechanical, Engine Code(s): BNS 15 -

New = 10.0 to 14.0 bar
Wear Limit = 9.0 bar
Difference between Cylinders = max. 3.0 bar

1 bar = 14.5 psi
so if you have 180 psi on the low, that's 12 bar and well within the threshold. 200 is just under 14 bar. Difference between cylinders doesn't exceed 2 bar, so it should be fine. I'd say compression checks out. But then again, you might want jimmybones to give his opinion....he is pretty knowledgeable.

You posted the info for the BNS which is the RS4 engine. The S4 is the BHF engine. Most B6/7 S4s are between 130-175 PSI on the AR list.

That looks pretty good, now you need to find out how much oil it burns, and get him down 15-20% on price.

That is what bmwpower603's mechanic said about his car. Not the car that the OP is looking at.

[Mr.Wrong]

I'm glad I was not the only one who thought those numbers seemed quite high for an S4 engine with 150k on a clock.

[S4bro]

My mechanic just got back to me. Here's the compression results.
1-185
2-180
3-190
4-195
5-185
6-200
7-190
8-190

Keep posting your diagnosis on here. This is actually helpful for me as well since I am trying to get a better idea about the S4 in question.

[S4bro]

Once again guys, I really appreciate the feedback.

As JimmyBones mentioned, seems like he overpaid for it 2 years ago. He did change the power steering pump recently which is something that goes overtime. Seems like he has also been on top of maintenance.

I have asked him to re-consider my offer and let me know.

We are in different cities, so I will have to make a trip if he agrees, and get it inspected. I will definitely ask the shop to run a compression and borescope on it and a Vagcom

[bmwpower603]

I'm glad I was not the only one who thought those numbers seemed quite high for an S4 engine with 150k on a clock.

I assume these compression results were done while the engine was cold. After it just being started. But my engine is currently out of time. (Has broken guide, or failed adjuster) Not sure if that makes a difference. I had compression test done to ensure the engine is worth doing the timing refresh on.

[bmwpower603]

That is really high. Do you know if that is dry or wet? Was it done with the engine at operating temperature? How many miles does the current engine oil and filter have?



You posted the info for the BNS which is the RS4 engine. The S4 is the BHF engine. Most B6/7 S4s are between 130-175 PSI on the AR list.



That is what bmwpower603's mechanic said about his car. Not the car that the OP is looking at.

I have about 2k miles since last oil change.

[JimmyBones]

I assume these compression results were done while the engine was cold. After it just being started. But my engine is currently out of time. (Has broken guide, or failed adjuster) Not sure if that makes a difference. I had compression test done to ensure the engine is worth doing the timing refresh on.

Just incase I missed you posting it. How do you know that your engine is out of time? Do you happen to have crankshaft/camshaft correlation fault codes? Or camshaft adjuster range/performance codes?

I have about 2k miles since last oil change.

Ok, so your engine oil is pretty fresh. That is a good thing.

[ak-s4]

I almost backed out of my last B6 S4 purchase, but had the engine scoped and it turned out the cylinders were in mint condition. Sure enough, the car burns zero oil and I'm about 25,000 miles in and pretty happy. The car has about 122k on it now.

The price these things are going for is pretty crazy, in my opinion. You're getting a car that has tons of modern goodies that you still won't find in some new cars, with a V8 motor, AWD and pretty decent styling, considering 10+ years old.

$10k actually seems OK if the engine checks out.