oil smell please advise.

[nitronutz]

Gmornin from ky,
I've been experiencing oil smell inside the cabin. After some searching I've cocluded it could be a few things, pcv valve or associated tubing, valve cover gasket or cam tensioner seal, am I correct? Any thoughts?
Also how can I tell if any those aforementioned parts are bad? Valve cover is obvious but I've read to diagnose the pcv by removing the oil cap, if it had a strong vacuum then pcv is bad? Also I do not know where to look for cam tensioner leak. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
02 a4 1.8 5 mt.

[tHatOne guY]

Oil smell inside the cabin I'd look for a leak in the pcv system or oil leaking. The cam chain tensioner seal is at the rear of the cylinder head nearest the bulkhead. Start looking for oil seepage around/under there.

Esp look for the half moon gasket under the cam chain tensioner assembly. Very hard to see, will need the use of a mirror to even get a glance. Look under your intake manifold for a crumbling/cracking/failing pcv system as well.

There is tons of documentation by the guys in this forum in a thread called "Engine Strengthening"... pretty sure that's the name of the thread.

To check if some of the components are bad like you said about the vacuum, is a good idea. Checking the tubing I used a smoke machine, I'm sure there are a ton of other ways. Try a boost leak test, that should be able to locate a leak in the pcv tubing as well.

[nitronutz]

Thanks a bunch. I've been researching cam tensioner seal replacement as I seen lots seepage back there, can someone point me to a good diy?

[lyates1987]

Check your valve cover too for possible leaking on the exhaust manifold

[old guy]

Check your valve cover too for possible leaking on the exhaust manifold

Definitely check this first. Because of the extreme temperature differential above the turbo this side of the valve cover gasket is prone to leakage. That's where my burning oil smell was coming from. All it takes is one drop of oil on the exhaust manifold and the smell is pretty strong.

[nitronutz]

Can someone explain this,
I read in the diy on cam tensioner seals where you have to put that back cylinder to TDC? Exactly how do u do that? I seen the timing mark on the block and I guess there's one on the cam or chain? The diy's photo is real ambiguous. So do I just turn the crank bolt till the two marks match? If anyone has done this please explain this part of the job to me. Thx

[nitronutz]

On a side note, I had a1990 G60.Corrado, I thought that thing was a PITA to work on...My b6 a4 put it to shame. Lol.

[tHatOne guY]

Can someone explain this,
I read in the diy on cam tensioner seals where you have to put that back cylinder to TDC? Exactly how do u do that? I seen the timing mark on the block and I guess there's one on the cam or chain? The diy's photo is real ambiguous. So do I just turn the crank bolt till the two marks match? If anyone has done this please explain this part of the job to me. Thx

Put the #1 cylinder, closest to the timing belt, to TDC by lining up the mark on the harmonic balancer with the notch in the lower timing belt cover. Once the upper t-belt cover comes off check the cam gear, it should be at almost the 12 o'clock position. If not you're 180 degrees out so roll it over once more, there will be a mark on the valve cover to line up with the cam gear.

Be sure there are 16 rollers in between the index marks on the cams, nearest the cam chain tensioner, these marks will also be at the 12 o'clock position once you're at #1 TDC and the valve cover is off obviously.

The latter is the most difficult part of the entire process.

If you don't own a Bentley manual I highly suggest one. I got a few from eBay, used for less than half brand new.

[nitronutz]

What's the significance in putting #1cylinder to TDC when changing the CTG? Some say you can change it without that step, cam someone confirm that?

[tHatOne guY]

You certainly can omit that step as it only provides a point of reference.

[nitronutz]

So it doesn't provide any more clearance for the CTG if I put it in TDC? Can I just mark the chain and sprocket and be done with it?

[daverdfw]

do you have VCDS to check for codes? Sometimes an vac leak wont trigger a CEL but might show up in the logs.

[tHatOne guY]

do you have VCDS to check for codes? Sometimes an vac leak wont trigger a CEL but might show up in the logs.

Good point, using the STFT, LTFT and O2 values can get you to the right area to inspect.

[tHatOne guY]

So it doesn't provide any more clearance for the CTG if I put it in TDC? Can I just mark the chain and sprocket and be done with it?

Well not that I'm aware of at least... as far as the clearance goes.

As long as you mark or lock the timing belt to the exhaust cam sprocket using some binder clips or something and get your roller count dead on you should have no issues. I only pulled my intake cam out when I did mine and left the exhaust cam in entirely, there was barely enough room. Quite a bit of Jenga-ish maneuvers and lots of finesse.

[nitronutz]

Thanks man. Will be attempting the job soon. Tired of smelling the oil fumes in the cabin. Got like a spank load of snow in Ky. Hoping for a thaw out soon.

[nitronutz]

Guys I think I at least found one source of my oil smell. My T piece of my PCV system (#5) has a huge crack in it. Any advise on how to replace it easily? I know I eventually will need replace the whole thing but it's damn cold here and I haven't a home garage. I've read you might have to pull the TB , overflow tank. Any advise for this A4 Rookie would be appreciated. Oh yeah my #9 breather tube is metal, I guess some of them is plastic? Or is it aftermarket.
BTW ThatOneGuy, love the avatar. Grew up playing streetfighter. I still bust it out on occasion on my genesis lol.

[old guy]

If your tube is metal you either have an '02 or '03. Which one is it? At a minimum you will want to replace these components:

For an '02 or early '03: Clicky click®

For a late '03: Clicky click®

It can be done by moving the coolant reservoir to the side and leaving the intake manifold in place. However, it will be pretty tedious working in the confined space. Removing the intake manifold requires a little more work but with a lot more room to access the components.

[nitronutz]

I have an 02 old guy. Is there a diy to intake manifold removal? Will it require new gaskets as well,?

[nitronutz]

Just found a diy. Draining coolants and pulling injectors? No thanks. Has anyone successfully changed all the pcv tubing without pulling the intake manifold?

[old guy]

Yep. I did it about a year ago without pulling the intake manifold or draining any coolant.

[nitronutz]

Any surprises? Other then being a tight space to work in...all u did was remove the TB and move the overflow tank? Any tips would be appreciated.

[old guy]

I didn't remove the TB. I just moved the coolant reservoir out of the way. Disconnected the "T" supply to the Evap line. Used a small hose duct taped to my shop vac to remove the crumbly pieces that will occur when you remove the "L" connection from the block. If you purchase the kit I linked you will have all the components you need.

[nitronutz]

Thank u kind sir. I think I might remove the TB and gain a bit more room. Worth it?

[1/4 scale]

Check the plastic elbow (#2) coming from the crankcase as well. Just replaced mine since it was brittle and cracked. Be careful not to drop pieces into the crankcase. Piece #5 has a small valve (#6) attached to it that you'll want to replace if you have high miles. I also changed the suction jet valve (not shown on the image) that connects the other side of hose (#10). You can do it without removing the TB. The hardest part of the job is taking off the clamps.

[nitronutz]

I had planned out removing the whole thing as an unit then replace as one, you think it'd be enough room without removing the TB?

[1/4 scale]

Yes, you can do it that way. As OG points out, careful of falling pieces into crankcase. Removing #2 can be tricky, it will probably break at the neck leaving the integrated metal sleeve. You might have to pry it out separately.

[nitronutz]

Cool thanks, as ur name implies do u fly rc aircrafts? It's one of my passions in life. Hope for spring to come fast!

[1/4 scale]

Cool thanks, as ur name implies do u fly rc aircrafts? It's one of my passions in life. Hope for spring to come fast!

architect

[daverdfw]

Check the plastic elbow (#2) coming from the crankcase as well. Just replaced mine since it was brittle and cracked. Be careful not to drop pieces into the crankcase. Piece #5 has a small valve (#6) attached to it that you'll want to replace if you have high miles. I also changed the suction jet valve (not shown on the image) that connects the other side of hose (#10). You can do it without removing the TB. The hardest part of the job is taking off the clamps.

+1 on this, mine was broken as well when I bought the car. smelt oil all the time. Mine broke at the bottom. inspect it closely.

[nitronutz]

architect

Awesome!

[nitronutz]

Check the plastic elbow (#2) coming from the crankcase as well. Just replaced mine since it was brittle and cracked. Be careful not to drop pieces into the crankcase. Piece #5 has a small valve (#6) attached to it that you'll want to replace if you have high miles. I also changed the suction jet valve (not shown on the image) that connects the other side of hose (#10). You can do it without removing the TB. The hardest part of the job is taking off the clamps.

Please help. While trying to replace the dreaded plastic elbow today i found the metal ring and part of the pipe is stuck in the oil filter housing! How did u guys get it out? I didnt take the manifold off. Struggled for hours to no avail. I m think getting some extra long picks or a pilot bearing puller to do the job...advices??

[Let it snow]

Please help. While trying to replace the dreaded plastic elbow today i found the metal ring and part of the pipe is stuck in the oil filter housing! How did u guys get it out? I didnt take the manifold off. Struggled for hours to no avail. I m think getting some extra long picks or a pilot bearing puller to do the job...advices??

I think this happens to a lot of us. I had to use a slide hammer to get mine out. It was stuck good. I then used a shop vac with a smaller hose attachment to suck as much of the debris out as possible. Good luck.

[old guy]

Mine did the same thing. I just used a pair of angled needle nose pliers and went from one edge to the other and eventually worked it out. After I got it out I duct taped a long section of small diameter flexible hose to the the end of my Shop-Vac and sucked out all of the little chunks of plastic.

[nitronutz]

Note to self...google slide hammer.
Can i use that method without removing the manifold??

[Let it snow]

Try old guys method first. I had a slide hammer on hand so I went that route. Here it is if you were wondering. I did it with the manifold still on.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...-pc-60554.html

[1/4 scale]

It doesn't take a lot of force. I loosened it up by carefully prying the sleeve inward with long screwdriver (above the intake mani). Then I made a pick/hook from a long steel rod (coat hanger) and pulled up around the bottom of the broken tip of the pipe. It slid out in pieces. You'll get it, be patient.

[nitronutz]

Anyone have any opinion on my rear tracking arm blind nut? If the weld breaks can i just use a new press in nut and crank it down instead of dropping sub frame and weld?

[nitronutz]

I here by declare victory on the stupid oil filter elbow. Slide hammer worked like a charm. Wish me luck on my rear tracking arm tomorrow. Praying tge blind nut weld doesnt break!

[nitronutz]

No love from the blind nut. Weld broke as warned. Gonna drop the sub frame an inch and finish that bolt off with an air cut off wheel. Wish me luck.