Door actuator part number??

[stseo6143]

Hello,

I have a 2009 Audi A4 B8 model that has problem with a door actuator on my driver's side door.

When I try to lock my car with the key fob, it doesn't lock and the power lock light blinks for couple of times and then stays red. Of course, the door doesn't lock or unlock. However, when I use my physical key and open it manually, it works completely fine.

My local Audi dealership told me I have to switch out the door actuator/latch and asked for $600. I'm assuming if I purchase the parts myself it would coast less. Did anyone have problem with this issue? anyone with part number or information on where to get an actuator?

I am willing to buy one if there if someone is selling. Just shoot me a message.

Your help will be much appreciated.


Thank You

[adamazing]

I've been seeing a lot of these lately with the older B8's. Seems like it's slowly becoming a common problem on the early models - maybe they have a greater failure rate after 5-6 years.

[estrov]

Same problem with my 2009

Here are the p/n's:

Up to the production date 11/02/2009 - 8J1837015B
From the production date 11/02/2009 - 8J1837015F

Watch out - the connectors are different on each one.



vs.

[Pelican Parts]

Up to production 11/02/2009 HERE
From production 11/02/2009 HERE

[doowopaudi]

Hello,

I have a 2009 Audi A4 B8 model that has problem with a door actuator on my driver's side door.

When I try to lock my car with the key fob, it doesn't lock and the power lock light blinks for couple of times and then stays red. Of course, the door doesn't lock or unlock. However, when I use my physical key and open it manually, it works completely fine.

My local Audi dealership told me I have to switch out the door actuator/latch and asked for $600. I'm assuming if I purchase the parts myself it would coast less. Did anyone have problem with this issue? anyone with part number or information on where to get an actuator?

I am willing to buy one if there if someone is selling. Just shoot me a message.

Your help will be much appreciated.


Thank You

Same thing happened to me on my 2010. I bought the part from a Porsche dealer for a fraction of the cost and installed it myself. Let me find the thread where I have the pictures of how to do it.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

[doowopaudi]

Here you go. All you need to know to do it yourself.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=674777

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[stseo6143]

wow, thank you guys for so much help!! you guys are awesome!!



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[doowopaudi]

wow, thank you guys for so much help!! you guys are awesome!!



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I called the dealer and provided them with my VIN to get the correct part number.

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[CONative]

Instead of creating a new thread, figured I could bump this one for some current info..

Actuator on drivers' side is going out on my '09 A4 and the part number 8J1837015B appears to no longer be available through the AudiUSA website. Seems that it can be sourced though FCPEuro, Europa for around $200. But was curious if anyone found an updated part number that would be compatible? Per the above, 8J1837015F has a different connector. I was hoping to order through my local dealer (Audi Flatirons) as they typcially have 15-20% off MSRP. Thoughts anyone?

[Spawne32]

Yes the updated part number is the new revision, you want the one thats from porsche because it is cheaper than the OEM audi part.

[Smac770]

On the subject of the lock mechanism pinout change at Nov 11, 2009, from what I can find:

----------------------------------------------------

>> lock unit

- pre-Nov 11 '09
front left (lhd) - 8J1 837 015 B
front right (lhd) - 8J1 837 016 B
rear left - 8K0 839 015 A
rear right - 8K0 839 016 A

- post-Nov 11 '09
front left (lhd) - 8J1 837 015 D, replaced by 8J1 837 015 F starting Nov 3 '14
front right (lhd) - 8J1 837 016 D, replaced by 8J1 837 016 F starting Nov 3 '14
rear left - 8K0 839 015 D, replaced by 8K0 839 015 G starting Nov 3 '14
rear right - 8K0 839 016 D, replaced by 8K0 839 016 G starting Nov 3 '14


>> harness plug

- pre-Nov 11 '09
driver - 1J0 973 715, 10-pin
passng - 1J0 973 714, 8-pin
rear - 1J0 973 714, 8-pin

- post-Nov 11 '09
driver - 1J0 973 714, 8-pin
passng - 1J0 973 714, 8-pin
rear - 4F0 973 706, 6-pin


>> wiring

F220, front driver's door central locking lock unit

- pre-Nov 11 '09

1 - brown/blue
2 - gray/green
3 - violet/yellow
4 - gray/violet
5 - blue
6
7
8 - brown/red
9
10

- post-Nov 11 '09

1 - blue
2
3 - violet/yellow
4 - brown/blue
5 - brown/red
6 - gray/green
7 - gray/violet
8


F221, front passenger's door central locking lock unit
F222, left rear door central locking lock unit
F223, right rear door central locking lock unit

- pre-Nov 11 '09

1 - brown/blue
2 - gray/green
3 - violet/yellow
4 - gray/violet
5
6 - brown/red
7
8

- post-Nov 11 '09

1
2 - brown/blue
3 - gray/green
4 - violet/yellow
5 - brown/red
6 - gray/violet
7
8

----------------------------------------------------

If there's further difference between the pre and post Nov 11 '09 lock units that prevent retrofitting a newer unit to an older car, I have no idea.

If you need the driver's door pre Nov 11 '09 unit, it does seem that buying the Porsche part is more cost effective:
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/850...de-8J1837015B/
or used even:
https://wolfautoparts.com/catalogsea.../?q=8J1837015B

As noted, if you do elect to try the replacement part, you'll need to buy the plug too and swap that out also.

I find it interesting that Audi lists even the latest lock units as "no longer available", for all four doors.

[rcprato]

Yes the updated part number is the new revision, you want the one thats from porsche because it is cheaper than the OEM audi part.

I bought mine from Sunset Porsche online, took me about a week to get and works perfect

[CONative]

@Smac770 - very helpful info, thank you for posting. I’m probably the minor in this forum with an early model B8. I too question why the original and revision are no longer available from Audi. I have to pick up some parts from the dealership tomorrow for my S4 so I might inquire what the mechanics are doing when a B8 comes in with this problem.

I’ll scope the Porsche dealerships as I don’t want to by a used part given the failure rate.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Ejr]

On the subject of the lock mechanism pinout change at Nov 11, 2009, from what I can find:

----------------------------------------------------

>> lock unit

- pre-Nov 11 '09
front left (lhd) - 8J1 837 015 B
front right (lhd) - 8J1 837 016 B
rear left - 8K0 839 015 A
rear right - 8K0 839 016 A

- post-Nov 11 '09
front left (lhd) - 8J1 837 015 D, replaced by 8J1 837 015 F starting Nov 3 '14
front right (lhd) - 8J1 837 016 D, replaced by 8J1 837 016 F starting Nov 3 '14
rear left - 8K0 839 015 D, replaced by 8K0 839 015 G starting Nov 3 '14
rear right - 8K0 839 016 D, replaced by 8K0 839 016 G starting Nov 3 '14


>> harness plug

- pre-Nov 11 '09
driver - 1J0 973 715, 10-pin
passng - 1J0 973 714, 8-pin
rear - 1J0 973 714, 8-pin

- post-Nov 11 '09
driver - 1J0 973 714, 8-pin
passng - 1J0 973 714, 8-pin
rear - 4F0 973 706, 6-pin


>> wiring

F220, front driver's door central locking lock unit

- pre-Nov 11 '09

1 - brown/blue
2 - gray/green
3 - violet/yellow
4 - gray/violet
5 - blue
6
7
8 - brown/red
9
10

- post-Nov 11 '09

1 - blue
2
3 - violet/yellow
4 - brown/blue
5 - brown/red
6 - gray/green
7 - gray/violet
8


F221, front passenger's door central locking lock unit
F222, left rear door central locking lock unit
F223, right rear door central locking lock unit

- pre-Nov 11 '09

1 - brown/blue
2 - gray/green
3 - violet/yellow
4 - gray/violet
5
6 - brown/red
7
8

- post-Nov 11 '09

1
2 - brown/blue
3 - gray/green
4 - violet/yellow
5 - brown/red
6 - gray/violet
7
8

----------------------------------------------------

If there's further difference between the pre and post Nov 11 '09 lock units that prevent retrofitting a newer unit to an older car, I have no idea.

If you need the driver's door pre Nov 11 '09 unit, it does seem that buying the Porsche part is more cost effective:
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/850...de-8J1837015B/
or used even:
https://wolfautoparts.com/catalogsea.../?q=8J1837015B

As noted, if you do elect to try the replacement part, you'll need to buy the plug too and swap that out also.

I find it interesting that Audi lists even the latest lock units as "no longer available", for all four doors.

I changed the front pass. side on my 09 A4 Prestige and it had 7 pins which is not listed here on pre or post Nov. So I’m not sure what infor is correct, cause now the driver side is dying. I don’t wanna have to open it to find out. I also once changed the rear driver side (left) and it had 8 pins, so I’m guessing mine is Pre Nov, but for the pass front according to quoted, it would be wrong info.

[Smac770]

Your build date is on a sticker at the bottom of the driver's door jamb. But any MY09 was built before May '09.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-FMAA...px/s-l1600.jpg

There might only be 7 physical pins installed, but it's still an 8 position plug interface.

[Ejr]

Mine says AG 10 08. So I’m guessing August 10th 2008 or August 2010 8th lmao, I’m not what format they used. But it’s funny cuz my VIN ends with 09N031292 meaning 2009 Nov, and that’s the year of production far as I know.
IMG_7985.jpg

So this here would be considered a 10 pin interface?
IMG_7983.jpg

[Smac770]

VIN ...09N031292 means it's a 2009 (9), built in Neckarsulm (N), sequence number 31292 (031292)

AG is German version of incorporated. Audi's formal name is Audi AG. The build date is Oct '08. I believe the actual day of month of the build is marked somewhere, but I forget where.

Look at the plug side, it's a 10-pin plug. So yes, I would call that a 10-pin interface, 2x5.

Notice in this J519, not all the pins are present on each of the 17-pin plugs. But it's still a 17-pin plug and I would document the signals from 1 to 17. Such as the lower left in those case always being pin 14, pin present or not. Because that's position 14 on the 17-pin plug. (I might have it backwards and it's 8, but it's 8 or 14, I forget which).

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~VYAA...ud/s-l1600.jpg

[Ejr]

Wow I never knew that’s what the N stands for. I think that place would be at the bottom of the drivers door jam, it says 10 08 I guess like you said then, August 8th. So it’s a 10 pin putting but with 9 actual pins?

[Smac770]

Oct '08. The 10 is clearly not the year when your car is a MY09. There's no reason to presume either of the two digits is a day of month until someone shows an example from MY09-MY12 with a digit larger than 12. On mine, it's 08/08, so of no help in that regard.

I don't know how many pins are actually mounted on the device side for the driver's door lock actuator. Never looked at it. But it would appear so - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33039550609.html But even with 9 pins present, there's still only 6 wires going to the 10 position plug.

[RPMtech147]

Both rear doors on mine will not unlock and occasionally lock. I have to reach in from the front door and do the double pull to get them open and lock them with the manual "hole" inside the door frame. It's irritating but for what the latches cost, I deal with it. When the front door latches crap out, I will have to replace them. I think there's a DIY fix for the small motor in the latch that fails but I'd have to dig around.

To add insult to injury, the power door locks on my near 25 year old Nissan Pathfinder with 260,000 miles all work just fine.

[Ejr]

Oct '08. The 10 is clearly not the year when your car is a MY09. There's no reason to presume either of the two digits is a day of month until someone shows an example from MY09-MY12 with a digit larger than 12. On mine, it's 08/08, so of no help in that regard.

I don't know how many pins are actually mounted on the device side for the driver's door lock actuator. Never looked at it. But it would appear so - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33039550609.html But even with 9 pins present, there's still only 6 wires going to the 10 position plug.

My bad, I meant to type October 8, I was drowsy. But yeah, I guess only way to know for sure would be to open it up. I will buy the one I sent a picture of in my previous post, and try to install it. So I’m thinking it’d be safe to assume my prod date was 10/08/09

[Ejr]

Both rear doors on mine will not unlock and occasionally lock. I have to reach in from the front door and do the double pull to get them open and lock them with the manual "hole" inside the door frame. It's irritating but for what the latches cost, I deal with it. When the front door latches crap out, I will have to replace them. I think there's a DIY fix for the small motor in the latch that fails but I'd have to dig around.

To add insult to injury, the power door locks on my near 25 year old Nissan Pathfinder with 260,000 miles all work just fine.

Since I got the car with 150k mi over a year ago I’ve replaced both the front pass, and rear driv. I believe they were stock. Kinda a hustle but it’s a lot of DIYs on YouTube, you just gotta be careful not to brake any tabs. With the front pass I go one off of Amazon but it crapped out in like 2 months. I got another from eBay Dec 2020, and straight off the bat it had better quality even with how it latched to the door jam or whatever they call it. So after the rear driv had your symptoms too (died), I went and got the same brand in January, they both work superb so far. Unfortunately they don’t have any for the front driv. I even contacted them on eBay; responded saying they don’t have it, but as of right now their eBay store is empty so idk what’s up with them. If you feel like new OEM is expensive, best bet would be to get a used one but with that, there’s no telling when it will go out on you. It’s a bunch of brands out there & I’m not trn be their tester as I did with the Amazon one. So I’ll just take my chances with used OEM or OEM.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Left-D...-127632-2357-0

[Smac770]

My bad, I meant to type October 8, I was drowsy. But yeah, I guess only way to know for sure would be to open it up. I will buy the one I sent a picture of in my previous post, and try to install it. So I’m thinking it’d be safe to assume my prod date was 10/08/09

You have a MY09; there's 0 chance it was built in Oct '09. MY10 production would have started in May '09. The 10 08 should be read as Oct 2008; as mentioned, I see no evidence of either digit being a day of month.

[Ejr]

Gotcha. So what do you figure would be the prod date?

[Smac770]

The warranty booklet explains the PR codes sticker documents month/year of manufacture, replicated on the door jamb. There is no record of day of month of manufacture on the car itself that I know. I only have an idea of my day of month because the original battery adaptation in the J533 history data is Aug 14, 2008, at 1:51pm. My stamped manufacture date being 08/08, ie Aug 2008.

I don't know of anything that was changed during Oct '08, so there's not really any value to a day of month for your build anyway. Start of Nov '08 had changes mid-MY09; Nov '09 had more substantial changes mid-MY10. Neither of which apply to your Oct '08 build.

[Ejr]

The warranty booklet explains the PR codes sticker documents month/year of manufacture, replicated on the door jamb. There is no record of day of month of manufacture on the car itself that I know. I only have an idea of my day of month because the original battery adaptation in the J533 history data is Aug 14, 2008, at 1:51pm. My stamped manufacture date being 08/08, ie Aug 2008.

I don't know of anything that was changed during Oct '08, so there's not really any value to a day of month for your build anyway. Start of Nov '08 had changes mid-MY09; Nov '09 had more substantial changes mid-MY10. Neither of which apply to your Oct '08 build.

I’ll try look for this PR code sticker in the manual pouch. This is all so confusing lmao.

Once watched a video about something like this they said it’s in the trunk, like in the spare tire compartment. Yet to look for it. IMG_8014.jpg

[Smac770]

It was in my warranty booklet, inside the front cover. But the PR code sticker will have the same month/year designation as the door jamb. There's nothing new to be learned from it in this regard.