control arms help

[nitronutz]

Hi, been a loyal reader for years and this is my first official question. I have an 02 a4 Quattro 1.8, getting ready to change all the control arm due to a creak when Turing the steering wheel. My question is, I was doing the uppers first. Should I go ahead and do the lowers while the strut /upper arms are out of the car? Or reassemble then do the lowers? I didn't really want to take the axle/brake caliber and rotor off. Just worried if I went ahead and took the lowers out while the uppers are out also the axle and hub might be under too much stress. Any thoughts? Thanks.

[lyates1987]

Stick a jack under the hub

[diagnosticator]

Support the axle and associated parts on a suitable support and change the lower arms at the same time.

[nitronutz]

Thanks guys. I figured as such. Time to tackle the infamous pinch bolt!

[nitronutz]

When I get to the lower control arm do I have drop the sub frame for bolt clearance? Seems like some people say it does and some say you can wiggle it out?

[old guy]

When I get to the lower control arm do I have drop the sub frame for bolt clearance? Seems like some people say it does and some say you can wiggle it out?

No need to drop the subframe. Wiggle it out.

[Tone-Dogg]

Two of the most respected guys on this forum just commented on your thread, so don't take my word for it, but I literally just did this job 2 days ago, both uppers and lowers.

My method was tackling the uppers first, I took the strut and the upper piece were the strut mount is located, replaced that also, then tackled the lowers. As old guy stated, there will be some wiggling involved.

I suppose the only added benefit I can add to the thread is you will be so pleased when you finish. OMG, to say it will feel like a new car is an understatement. Had her aligned today. Good luck...

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[nitronutz]

Thanks guys. There's a craps load of snow in ky now but looking forward to get started when it warms up. Gonna do my struts when I get it all apart also. Should be an adventure...

[TEB]

FWIW, I just did this over the holidays and I really don't think it matters the sequence. I did the lowers first and then the uppers -- not sure why though.

I assume you have an appropriate ball joint separator?

[nitronutz]

I've got a hammer.....JK
I was gonna rent one from autozone or get a cheapy HF one. Any suggestions?

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Whats everyone using or should I say what method are most using to get that pinch bolt to move? I am needing to do mine very soon and have been procrastinating the job just because the stupid pinch bolt

[nitronutz]

I've researched for a month...so cold here so haven't got to put my theory to use yet. But this is what I m gonna do :
Take tension off the bolt by jacking up the hub, PB Blast the hell out of it. Hit the gap with an air chisel. Then have my wife use my impact gun to twist the bolt end while I hit the other end with a hammer. If the bolt head breaks I'll finish it off with an air hammer.

[Seerlah]

I do the uppers with strut/spring assembly first. Let it hang bolted and attached to the chasis, but don't fully torque the inner upper arm bushings yet. Then I attach the lower arm inner bushings (both arms) and don't torque these fully yet too. After that, attach strut to the lower front arm and still don't fully torque yet (don't tq the strut to arm bolt fully yet either). Now, I then place the ball end of the lower front onto my jack. I raise it as necessary in accordance with positioning the spindle to be able to get it in and I then tq this down fully once in (just ball joint end). I keep this still under my hydraulic jack and raise/lower as necessary to attach the rear arm ball end. I also tq this down fully. With the spindle all still on the hydraulic jack, I raise it till full load. At this point, I proceed to tq all the inner bushings along with lower front arm to strut bushing. Done!

*I actually place full load on, then back off just a tad before torquing down the bushings. I do this to account for real world up/down travel the car will see (ie rough roads). My method isn't really orthadox, but it is what it is. I mod, tinker, and walk my own route more times than less

[old guy]

Leave the gap alone. Use heat and PB Blaster. Use your impact wrench and switch it to forward and reverse until the bolt breaks loose. If you turn it in one direction only you will probably just break the bolt off and then it gets a lot harder to deal with.

Mark both ends of the bolt so you can tell if the bolt is starting to turn or just starting to twist off.

[daught]

In case you break the bolt, mine came out pretty easily this way. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11109809

I highly recommend an air hammer to push the control arms out.

[Seerlah]

Dirtyeuro, there are many techniques. You want to of course start with ample penatrating oil of your choice. Most do this days before, up until.

Once you get to it, start with simple stiff and go from there. First try and see if it can turn (don't twist the head at all). If it doesn't budge, hit the back end with a hammer and punch. If it pops out, great. If not, try to turn it again. If you don't like the room available for the punch and hammer, place the nut at the very end and hit it that way. But...be carefull not to mushroom the head by hittin it too hard. Mix it up a bit and give yourself time with this technique. If it doesn't work, then apply some heat and proceed with the same process. Repeat with still mixing it up while applying more and more heat till it finaly does budge (you very much could end up with the area glowing red). Eventually it will give. Just give it time repeating the process with applying more and more heat.

Be sure to place antiseize on the new pinch bolt before installing. Also reapply antiseize any time you can (ie at least once a year when you have the wheel off for whatever reason). Then next time around, comes out without a hassle. I'll be changing a few ca parts spring time, and I don't expect any pinch bolt issues because of the aforementioned.

There are of course other routes. But what was stated for the average diy driveway guy who either doesn't have a lot of tools or wants to spend money on stuff they will hardly ever use. For applying heay, use the little map tanks with a Bernzomatic torch tip/igniter. Not cheap at roughly $35, but is the best one for that tank (except for things like an air/map setup). You want that torch tip for the flame it produces. You get what you pay for, and weak flames just makes the job that much longer. Or, go rent an mc tank of acetylene from your local gas rental supply place (ie Air Gas). But you will also need your own regulator and torch tip, so price starts to stack up. They won't rent one these (you can CL shop and grab a used one). I only rented nitrogen from Air Gas before, and it was cheap. Something like $25-$40 or so, and tank needed to be returned after a month.

[mprivi]

Subscribed.... Is there a DIY on this anywhere? I to am deciding wether I should attempt this on my own do to a creaking while turning at low speeds in parking lots and side streets.. I may have the mechanic give me an estimate, but wanted to save some coin. Also does it make it easier or worth it to do coilers while replacing the control arms?

[Tone-Dogg]

Replacing the control arms isn't very hard, the hard part is getting the pinch bolt out. If you cab easily remove it, take on the job yourself and replace the suspension while there. If you can't easily remove the bolt, pay someone to do it, it's not worth the headache or time, curse words, broken drill bits and sore muscles....

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[mprivi]

Replacing the control arms isn't very hard, the hard part is getting the pinch bolt out. If you cab easily remove it, take on the job yourself and replace the suspension while there. If you can't easily remove the bolt, pay someone to do it, it's not worth the headache or time, curse words, broken drill bits and sore muscles....

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is there away to check if the pinch bolt will cooperate before taking it all apart?

[Tone-Dogg]

is there away to check if the pinch bolt will cooperate before taking it all apart?

Yes, there are several methods, probably listed in this thread, but jack up your frt end, remove the nut a little, and see if you can get the bolt free. I say a little as some will use the nut to hammer not to mushroom the bolt.

Some use basic hand tools, blowtorch, hammer, etc. See if it will free up, if your lucky someone else has already removed it and put it back with either a new bolt or antiseize grease.

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[nitronutz]

Tried to do my uppers yestersday. I tried every method, heat, impact wrench, air hammer, the washer method and a hand drill...nothing will make it budge. I concede defeat. Off to the shop on a tow truck.

[refueler]

I've done several pinch bolts on older A 4's up here in Maine where the pinch bolts and everything else is exposed to salt lots of corrosion. I have always gotten them out using patience, PB blaster, and heat from a Bernzomatic torch with map gas. Everyone of them have taken me at least an hour to get out the key part in the equation is be patient good luck.